Contemplating trading in my 2007 NBP TL type-s for an 07/08 6MT type-s or an 09/10 TL SH-AWD.

The 5AT just isn't cutting it for me and I'm really regretting not getting a 6MT in the first place.

My car currently has 145,000 miles on it and is in excellent condition with a clean carfax and detailed service history. I've only had the car for 1 year. KBB estimates my cars trade in value at ~$9,000 excellent and ~$11,600 for private party sale. I know the private party sale is slightly inaccurate as I see cars with my mileage going for $15-18k so I'm assuming that the trade in value is slightly lower than normal. Any idea what the estimated trade in value would be?

 

dont trade it in...sell it private party, should be able to get ~$14k for it, after all you only got it for 16k otd which means it was like 15k before taxes.

I remember last year i saw a guy post here on azine local to me that he got an 07 tl-s with 140k miles for 17k and thought it was a good deal...lol i got my car with half that miles for 17.5k otd...but yea lately i have been seeing tl-s with higher mileage go around 14k ish

 

Sell it privately.. KBB isn't the best for tl type s's because the prices for type s is majorly based on its rarity and how badly someone wants it. AT's with 120~150k go for roughly $12-14k at the Auction.

 

I figured it was somewhere around that. I should be able to get $14-16k for it private. I just didn't want to deal with any downtime between selling the car and finding a new one to replace it with.

 

Yeah private party is much better and I never trust kbb. I usually search cars.com for comperable cars and compare that way. Kbb doesn't take into account demand from what I've seen in the past. For example Toyota tacoma's and old Lexus's have high demand and high prices because people export them; KBB doesn't take that into account.

Just make sure you get all your mods off! I made the switch from a base 04 5AT to an 08 6MT Type-S and have been very happy with it!

Just still working on the part out

 

Use KBB as a guide for what price NOT to sell your TL for.

And +1 to getting the mods off before sale. If you end up getting a 6MT TL-S, you can use them again.

 

best switch I ever made was getting rid of my 5at for a 6mt. I sold my 5at private party too and swapped my mods out - worked out really well. Highly recommended.

i would lean towards the type-s, and while I am biased, the undeniable fact is that there isn't anything really aesthetically significant that sets 4G trim levels apart from one another.

I see tons of 3G TL's around, but a type-s is instantly identifiable from the rest. That's a big selling point for me. But again I'm biased and am an enthusiast so to me it only makes sense to buy the more highly sought-after vehicle, i.e. the type-s 6mt.

 

KBB can feel a bit low, but it's not that far off from my experience, I usually average several of the online tools (Edmunds, NADA, clearbook.truecar.com (nice new tool)).

Of course there's a real difference between private sale and retail (or dealer) and trade in pricing. I'm not sure how they charge what they do, but the dealers do somehow get a big premium, and also kill people on trade ins.

I remind myself that cars.com and Craigslist.com are ASKING prices and may have little to do with a market selling price. Many people have very unrealistic expectations of what their car is worth, or perhaps aren't that serious about selling but are just fishing.

Hope this helps, good luck!

 

When I was negotiating the price of my car with the dealer, they showed me the site they use, I forget what it's called but they go off of auction prices, not KBB.

 

Dealerships base their prices of a "black book value". Find this number and you'll generally have a good estimate. Its generally about 15-20% under what trade-in on KBB is.

Huntersville Ford offered me 16.5k for my '08 6MT CBP TL-S and when I contested it, the finance manager told me, and I quote, "thats a generous offer". I told her to go fuck herself and drove back home, 250 miles away.


fyi: my CBP is mint, never any issues, crystal clear title, 53k miles on it at the time.

 

 

Please use NADA !

 

Its probably Manheim's site. It shows you what real cars have sold for throughout the country at dealer auctions. Its called Mahiem MMR value.

 

How about looking at dealer asking price and subtracting what you think should be a reasonable profit? You can find asking prices pretty easy in your area by looking at AutoTrader. That will probably be more accurate for a given region than relying on Blue Book value.

I too recommend selling the car yourself- you'll have issues with the high mileage for some folks possibly. Start out a little high and gauge things by how many calls you get. If you sell the car yourself have all the documentation in a good organized form- helps greatly.

 

I would sell the car by myself.....

 

Yup a lot of dealers use MMR. People tend to pay about 2-5k over MMR for cars in retail.

 

^ That's why used car sales often make more profit than new car sales at a dealership- lots of profit in a used car with all the variability in things. I have sold 5 cars myself and did a trade-in on one. The private party sales were all easy and sold to first person looking at car.

If you're going to trade-in, I would go to a CarMax and see if they can locate a 6MT and work on a clean single deal: AT for 6MT.

 

I try to sell privately whenever I can, otherwise insist on Manheim price. Also keep in mind that if you trade in a car, you save on taxes, at least in my state...so if you're not having any luck selling privately, maybe Manheim value + tax savings will compensate for the dealer's usual lowball tactics.

 

Yup that was it. They wanted to give me 11K for my 06 Trailblazer SS with 69K miles, I said no lol. I expected them to offer 12-13 and still say no. Sold it for 18K privately 3 or 4 days later and bought my current car cash.

 

I work for a dealership and KBB is terrible. With most vehicles, they usually are too high for trade-ins. Your best bet would be to go to autotrader.com and check out the trade-in market place. That is going to be the best way to get an accurate trade-in number on any vehicle as long as you describe it accurately. You can also find an auto trader market place dealership in your area that will buy it for that exact amount from the website after a physical inspection at that dealer checks out to make sure your online form is correct.

Also, take it to CarMax. I work for a Honda dealer and one of the best tools we have here at the dealership is having the CarMax right next to us. It allows the customer to get a 3rd party opinion on the vehicle. The reason CarMax can usually give such good numbers on purchasing a vehicle is because everything they do is so all inclusive. They purchase cars, sell cars, have their own financing company, their own auctions for cars they dont want on their lots, and their own towing/shipping services so they are able to buy cars for a tab bit higher because their overall cost to move a vehicle is lower and they profit all across the board. Plus they are a no haggle car dealership, you either pay the price on the stick or you keep on moving to the next dealership to find your car.

Hope this helps!

 

Also depending on the state that you live in, there may be a tax credit system where you get X% of the vehicle sales tax taken off the sales tax on the new/used vehicle you are purchasing depending on the trade-in vehicles value. For example in MD where I live, if a customer comes in with a $10,000 trade on the purchase of a $20,000 new Honda. The trade-in credit would be $600 because MD sales tax is 6%. The sales tax on the new Honda would be $1,200. After the sales tax credit gets applied to the new vehicle purchase, the sales tax would then be back down to $600. Do some research in your state to see what type of incentives they offer for something like this.

One nice thing about this if CarMax offers you $10,000 and we are able to offer you $9,800... its still beneficial for the customer to trade-in to us because after their tax credit the total trade-in would net $10,388.