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Finally got an 07 'TL. $3400 for 180k miles. No rust (been underneath), interior is pretty much perfect. Front seats look GREAT. Super dark factory tint. Needs front struts and tie rods (couldn't find work up for struts, is R&R hard? I'll be replacing the whole assembly.) Going to do those with my neighbor this week.
Biggest issue I'm afraid of is the rough down shift. Based on what I've read it's likely to be the 3rd and 4th gear pressure switches? It will shift up with no problems. Down shifts rough from 4th to 3rd and 3rd to 2nd. I notice the car does move when I put it into gear, so, maybe it's a mount as well?
Also has some metallic vibrating noise I'm hoping is related to the exhaust.
Fog light switch on the turn signal stalk also doesn't work, is that a hard replace? Been searching for all sorts of stuff all over the forum but I can't find anything tailored to the 2007/2008. Are the significantly different from 2004 to 2006?
Also needs A/C compressor and condenser. Other than that and a bunch of minor things in the interior I don't think it's that bad. Here are some pics of the underneath and interior. Thoughts appreciated xD
Here's some pics. That's my also black with tinted windows 2001 Acura TL. 254k miles. Hoping to take this new one past 300k xD
I did! Just fixed yesterday as a matter of fact xD it was the heat shield on one of the rear catalytic converters. I also had the 3rd and 4th gear pressure sensors replaced. While the rough down shift from 3rd to 2nd was greatly improved I can now feel harder up shifts and the trans still sticks a little when it shifts from 3rd to 2nd. My 2001 TL with 255k miles (trans rebuilt at 168k) shifts more smoothly up and down and overall feels like a better transmission. I'm shocked lmfao. The 2007 TL I have now has 181k miles on it, transmission has not been rebuilt. By the way it feels I would not be surprised if it needs another transmission before or around 250k miles. I have not tried to flush the trans fluid yet, so, maybe it's that. I also am going to need a new AC compressor and condenser, so, at this point I'm considering selling it and trying to find one with less miles or that has been taken care of a bit better.
I did! Just fixed yesterday as a matter of fact xD it was the heat shield on one of the rear catalytic converters. I also had the 3rd and 4th gear pressure sensors replaced. While the rough down shift from 3rd to 2nd was greatly improved I can now feel harder up shifts and the trans still sticks a little when it shifts from 3rd to 2nd. My 2001 TL with 255k miles (trans rebuilt at 168k) shifts more smoothly up and down and overall feels like a better transmission. I'm shocked lmfao. The 2007 TL I have now has 181k miles on it, transmission has not been rebuilt. By the way it feels I would not be surprised if it needs another transmission before or around 250k miles. I have not tried to flush the trans fluid yet, so, maybe it's that. I also am going to need a new AC compressor and condenser, so, at this point I'm considering selling it and trying to find one with less miles or that has been taken care of a bit better.
Cool, did you put a clamp around it or replace it completely? The trans on these cars can be a bit shifty if the trans fluid hasn't been regularly changed sometimes. Are you able to do any of the maintenance and repairs yourself or use a Indy shop? I guess that would be a factor on selling based on what the actual cost would be. Good luck though
I'm not sure what they did with the heat shield, I'm guessing they just bolted it down some way since there's no charge for another heat shield. I was able to do the struts myself, tried the tie rods but couldn't get them off. I couldn't do the clutch oil pressure sensors though. Will be changing fog light bulb and a turn signal bulb though, so, hopefully that gives you an idea of my mechanical prowess lmfao. How much would a trans flush (fill and drain) cost? I'm guess that has to be it. I'll take a look at the trans fluid today and see what it looks like. Might even be able to flush said trans myself? Do these transmissions ever last to or past 300k? I can deal with the shifting if the trans flush doesn't smooth it out, don't wanna get 20k miles into the car if the trans will be shit, you know?
At this mileage, trans fluid is always a good idea to replace, if it hasn't been prior. On automatics, the full system typically holds 10-12 quarts of fluid, but when you drop the pan you'll usually only get a third of it out. A good way to replace more of it is drain it, clean the pan out, replace the filter, fill it, and repeat the process a few days later (although don't need to replace the filter again if you don't want to). You can do it a third time as well if you like. You'll never get it 100% clean as the old stuff will mix with the new, but you'll get most of the old out.
We had a Jeep Liberty years ago that would take 2-3 seconds to shift into reverse or drive once selected (with about 210k). Finally did the trans fluid swap I'm describing, twice, and it was butter smooth. When replacing the filters, they appeared to be factory, so it was likely still original fluid.
Wow, I'll definitely try that then. The shop that swapped the sensors and fixed the rattle wants $189 for a flush. They said that the machine they use runs fluid through the transmission as the car is running at factory spec and that they 'run a cleaner' through it first and also use a conditioner in the new fluid. They said the kit they use is called the BG Fluid Flush kit, not sure if that's a good idea for a Honda or not lmfao. With my luck I'll have them do the flush and it will blow up the transmission. I had a GMC Envoy that I ended up losing $7,000 on, so, I stay away from SUVs now lol.
If you haven't had a shop perform a full transmission flush within the first 50k miles and every 40-50k miles after, don't ever do a flush. I don't know why, but for some reason it always seems to just ruin the transmission. I don't know if it just gets some of the tiny debris that's hardened in the corners to loosen up or what, but there are countless stories of people doing a full transmission flush at higher mileages for the first time and ending up with transmission failures not long after. It makes no sense to me, as you'd think getting everything cleaned out should be best, but it happens.
Your best bet is to just do the drop the pan and refill fluid yourself. Plus, I don't the shop flush ever changes the filter, and you can do this when you drop the pan.
Before I changed the clutch oil pressure sensors everything except shifting down from 4th and 3rd gear was fine. Now it's a little rough coming out of 3rd and 4th along with up shifting in almost all the gears. With that being said, if I just deal with the rough shifting will it take away from the life of the trans??? Hopefully changing fluid isn't too hard lol.
The Quick Lube place said they'll do it for $149. Said they'll drain the fluid, fill it up, cycle through the gears, drain it, fill it and repeat. I believe that's called a 3x3? For some reason my picture of the trans fluid won't upload. I'll try again in the morning, but, it's DEFINITELY not pink. It's not dark brown either. Kind of like a light brown color, I'd say. Didn't smell burnt but idk what burning transmission fluid smells like lol. Hopefully that will get the shifts smoothed out. If not she's up on Craigslist lol. Looking at $4500 to $5500 for a remanufactured transmission. I've seen used '07 tran's on eBay for like $800 with 100kish miles but idk if it'd be wise to take a chance on a random use transmission.
If you haven't had a shop perform a full transmission flush within the first 50k miles and every 40-50k miles after, don't ever do a flush. I don't know why, but for some reason it always seems to just ruin the transmission. I don't know if it just gets some of the tiny debris that's hardened in the corners to loosen up or what, but there are countless stories of people doing a full transmission flush at higher mileages for the first time and ending up with transmission failures not long after. It makes no sense to me, as you'd think getting everything cleaned out should be best, but it happens.
Your best bet is to just do the drop the pan and refill fluid yourself. Plus, I don't the shop flush ever changes the filter, and you can do this when you drop the pan.
Dirty old fluid has more friction which might be the only thing that helps the torque converter to not slip per say
So then wouldn't the drain and refill cause the same issue??!?!?!??
A flush is going to push all those metal shavings and debris out that are in place, a drain is just going to drain the fluid that is in the pan not from the whole transmission, you only get about 3 quarts from a drain and refill in the TL. The flush like I said is going to blow all that shit out, every single last quart and drop, including the debris. Also the chemical agents they use break down the old particles that are held in place too on TOP of that rough flushing.
The Quick Lube place said they'll do it for $149. Said they'll drain the fluid, fill it up, cycle through the gears, drain it, fill it and repeat. I believe that's called a 3x3? For some reason my picture of the trans fluid won't upload. I'll try again in the morning, but, it's DEFINITELY not pink. It's not dark brown either. Kind of like a light brown color, I'd say. Didn't smell burnt but idk what burning transmission fluid smells like lol. Hopefully that will get the shifts smoothed out. If not she's up on Craigslist lol. Looking at $4500 to $5500 for a remanufactured transmission. I've seen used '07 tran's on eBay for like $800 with 100kish miles but idk if it'd be wise to take a chance on a random use transmission.
Burned trans fluid has a smell you'd never forget--same with gear lube--lol.
Seriously, change it. Today. It's the first thing I do with a new-to-me car. Plus the oil.
What you described is a 2X3--two changes of 3 quarts. One more drain and fill makes it a 3X3 for a total of 9 quarts (actually, 3.2 qts on the final change.)
I wouldn't get too worked up about replacing the trans 'til you do this and see the results.
Sounds good thanks. I'm trying to find a place that will do a drain and fill without charging me out the ass. Unfortunately it's really cold and snowy here now so I don't want to do it. The QuickLube place told me there isn't a filter on that transmission and they'd have to look up how much it'd they'd charge me to do it. The shop I had replace the clutch oil pressure sensors is saying $189 for FLUSH or $240 for a 3X3. They also said there isn't a transmission filter for the 2007 TL. The guy at the shop told me he wants to check it for codes before he does a flush or 3X3. He was adamant that he's never seen a transmission (that didn't have issues before) blow after a flush. Right now my fluid is a tan color and I can feel up shifts. Before I replaced the clutch oil pressure sensors I couldn't feel any upshifts. This leads me to believe that the trans itself is fine and now that the sensors work I can feel it because the fluid isn't up to spec in terms of viscosity which would cause me to feel up shifts? Still a little rough out of 3rd into 2nd but no where near as bad as it was before I changed the sensors.
I had a GMC Envoy that I ended up losing $7,000 on, so, I stay away from SUVs now lol.
Ummm... That was the Envoy's fault, not SUVs in general...
And, unless someone more mechanically knolwaged than I am disagrees, NEVER flush a Honda tranny, and ONLY use OEM Honda ATF-Z1 fluid, or Redline Racing fluid...
Yeah that Envoy was a piece of shit. I did drive it into the ground at Silver Lake Sand Dunes and I towed a trailer 14 hours in the wrong gear, so, maybe that's why it blew lmfao. That's the thing, I hear on Acurazine to not flush the tranny. But the mechanic says it's fine. As well as others, so, truly I have no idea what to do. The only time I've heard of an issue with flushing a transmission is if the fluid is black, then flushing it will ruin it. I'm scared to get it done now tbh, seems like it's a 50/50 chance on blowing the transmission tbh. You'd figure the shop would want me to go with the $219 option for a 3X3 instead of a flush but I honestly have no clue.
Yeah that Envoy was a piece of shit. I did drive it into the ground at Silver Lake Sand Dunes and I towed a trailer 14 hours in the wrong gear, so, maybe that's why it blew lmfao. That's the thing, I hear on Acurazine to not flush the tranny. But the mechanic says it's fine. As well as others, so, truly I have no idea what to do. The only time I've heard of an issue with flushing a transmission is if the fluid is black, then flushing it will ruin it. I'm scared to get it done now tbh, seems like it's a 50/50 chance on blowing the transmission tbh. You'd figure the shop would want me to go with the $219 option for a 3X3 instead of a flush but I honestly have no clue.
3x3 is much gentler on the tranny... The people on this forum are likely more knowledgeable on their cars than most mechanics... That is, maybe unless the mechanic is either an expirienced or knowledgeable Honda/Acura tech or a reputable independent Honda/Acura specialist mechanic...
Ummm... That was the Envoy's fault, not SUVs in general...
And, unless someone more mechanically knolwaged than I am disagrees, NEVER flush a Honda tranny, and ONLY use OEM Honda ATF-Z1 fluid, or Redline Racing fluid...
I agree, never flush any automatic transmission (unless you use the verb "flush" to mean three consecutive drain/fill operations otherwise known as a "3x3"). That said, do not use Z1 (which is long since discontinued) or RedLine; use Genuine Honda DW-1 ATF; accept no alternatives.
Last edited by horseshoez; 11-13-2018 at 05:57 PM.
...I hear on Acurazine to not flush the tranny. But the mechanic says it's fine.
As a general rule, the only "mechanics" who say it is "fine" are A) the ones who stand to profit from the service, and B) the ones who stand to profit when you need to replace the transmission. Just say "no".
I agree, never flush any automatic transmission (unless you use the verb "flush" to mean three consecutive drain/fill operations otherwise known as a "3x3"). That said, do not use Z1 (which is long since discontinued) or RedLine; use Genuine Honda DW-1 ATF; accept no alternatives.
Ok, didn't know that Z1 was discontinued, but you made my point... I saw Z1 in my owners manual on my 2008 TL so I memorized it... Use what is the current equivalent then... Im sure it's better... We're learning together as a society how to keep a Honda tranny together, haha!!!
As a general rule, the only "mechanics" who say it is "fine" are A) the ones who stand to profit from the service, and B) the ones who stand to profit when you need to replace the transmission. Just say "no".
And they tried to put Z1 in it. I'm like no, listen, the Forum says DW-1. Please use DW-1 lol hopefully they don't call me with any crazy codes. Fingers crossed...
And they tried to put Z1 in it. I'm like no, listen, the Forum says DW-1. Please use DW-1 lol hopefully they don't call me with any crazy codes. Fingers crossed...
Hmmm, wonder where they got the Z1 from; that stuff has been out of production for quite some time.
It's just what his computer said to put in there. Apparently they haven't updated the Honda section for a long time. That or they just had it sitting around. Fingers crossed they don't fuck it up.
So, update. Shop called. Said they drained and filled 3 quarts. Then said I shouldn't bother coming back because my fluid coming out was the same color as the fluid going in. I'm really color deficient, so, maybe brown trans fluid to me is normal trans fluid to others LOL. I'll post a pic if I can get the damn thing working. Anyway, he told me that he has a few customers with Acura's that one of his Techs was familiar with and said that mine drives like all the other ones. So, maybe I should deal with not having smooth up or down shifting? Fuckin' car lol.
Yep, they came in bags with little Honda logos and everthing. After I drive it, if I notice the 3 x 3 made a little difference, I'll keep doing it. If not I guess I just didn't get a TL that shifts up and down smoothly lol STORY OF MY LIFE
Sounds like you didn't get a 3x3 though, you only got a 3x1. Hopefully they didn't charge you for a full 3x3. I'd tell them you want to do the full 3x3 anyway, and bring it back for the next change in 2 days, then the third 2 days after that. You've got to give everything a chance to cycle through and I doubt driving it for 5 minutes is enough to do so. They shouldn't have an issue with this, either, as you end up paying them for the full service rather than just partial. Regardless if the mechanic thinks it will help or not, it's a good idea to get all that fluid replaced, not just 1/3 of it.
10-14-2018, 12:53 PM
thanks. I'm trying to find a place that will do a drain and fill without charging me out the ass. Unfortunately it's really cold and snowy here now so I don't want to do it. The QuickLube place told me there isn't a filter on that transmission and they'd have to look up how much it'd they'd charge me to do it. The shop I had replace the clutch oil pressure sensors is saying $189 for FLUSH or $240 for a 3X3. They also said there isn't a transmission filter for the 2007 TL. The guy at the shop told me he wants to check it for codes before he does a flush or 3X3. He was adamant that he's never seen a transmission (that didn't have issues before) blow after a flush. Right now my fluid is a tan color and I can feel up shifts. Before I replaced the clutch oil pressure sensors I couldn't feel any upshifts. This leads me to believe that the trans itself is fine and now that the sensors work I can feel it because the fluid isn't up to spec in terms of viscosity which would cause me to feel up shifts? Still a little rough out of 3rd into 2nd but no where near as bad as it was before I changed the sensors.
