jda123

My apologies if this was done before - I searched before I started and did not find it. This is probably too detailed for most, but wanted to make sure that everybody could do it if they wanted.

Tools required:
10MM 1/4" or 3/8" Socket
8MM 1/4" or 3/8" Socket
6" socket extention
Pliers
6"+ Phillips Screwdriver
10MM boxed end wrench
19MM boxed end wrench
Parts/Brake Cleaner

Parts required:
01302-RAY-003 : Bushing
91301-RAY-004 : O-Ring
25803-RAY-000 : Spring
25450-RAY-003 : Filter
?????-???-??? : x2 Crush Washers which I did not buy, but would next time.

Cost:
Less than $20

Level of difficulty & time required:
Medium-Hard - slightly harder than changing oil.
Took 25 minutes with taking pictures and making sure that my hands were clean so that I didn't get oil on my Canon 5D.

Prereqs:
Cool car (I did it hot, but cool is better)

Step 1 - Remove Air Box Cover and Hose.
There are 4 phillips screws on the left pointed at with red arrows. You must disengage the clamp (top left red arrow) and remove the metal hose. There is a 10MM clamp holding the hose onto the intake. To fully remove this unit, there are 2 plastic clips (yellow) that hold a power wire to the left side of bottom of the top cover. Ignore the blue 8MM mark - it is premature.


Step 2 - Remove the air box:
Remove the 2 10MM bolts in red. Remove the 8MM clip bolt in yellow. You might have to move the box to the side, but it should come out easily. Take the time to get the dusty moths, butterflies and other garbage out of the bottom of the box.


Step 3 - Remove the inlet line:
Remove the line bolt with a 19MM boxed end wrench. It should unscrew with your fingers once you break it loose. There are crush washers on both sides the line fitting (in blue) - don't lose these if you plan to reuse them... and don't forget to remove them if you plan to install new ones. The crush washers stuck to my fitting, so pay attention. NOTE: if it would be easier for you, you can remove that grounding strap, but it does not really get in the way too much.


Step 4 - Remove the filter cover:
There are three 10MM bolts that hold the cover on. Use a 10MM boxed end wrench to get these off. They should also unscrew with your fingers once you break them free.


Step 5 - Remove the cover:
The cover should start to come off on it's own with the spring pressure. Be sure and observe the line-up marks on the cover and housing.


Step 6 - Take out the stuff (industry term):
No picture here since I needed both hand, but take the cover off, then the filter and spring. You might have to reach in to get the spring. The grommeted side of the filter goes towards the housing and the solid end goes with the spring.

Step 7 - Clean cover and install new o-ring:
Remove the old o-ring and clean the housing with your choice of cleaner - I use brake/parts cleaner. Install the new o-ring without any lubrication oil - I did not see any extra lube when I took it off, so I put no new lube on when I assembled.

Step 8:
Put it all back together. Again, pay attention to the crush washers on the line fitting.

Findings:
The old filter was full of the same junk that is on the plug. It came off easily and was plentiful. The car drives no differently, which I expected, but I am glad to have gotten a new filter in there.

Parts:


Filters compared:
Guess which one is new?


This is from a light rub of my finger on the filter.


I would do this again in 20K miles, or so. It is cheap and easy enough to be cheap insurance. I suppose that Honda put these on here for a reason, even if they don't have them in their scheduled maintenance guide.

I hope that this helps somebody out. Sorry again, if this was posted before.

guitarplayer16

iTrader: (8)

Cool DIY, I'll put it in use sometime =)

Pharonocon

I was wondering about this. Thanks.

KidChenz89

iTrader: (1)

the one on the left is NEW!!!! =P

jhumbo

iTrader: (1)

How many miles were on that filter? Also, did you lose any trans fluid doing this change?

jda123

No idea about the filter. I bought the car used.

I did lose several tablespoons to a third of a cup of fluid. ...not enough to tell on the dipstick, but enough to make a little bit of a mess on the floor.

I forgot to mention that I used some brake/parts cleaner and some hot water on the area after I got done. I want it CLEAN to check for leaks.

sixsixfour

+1

very useful info though!

AMUA6

iTrader: (7)

Thanks for the awesome information!

mb1976

Thanks for the post I was going to ask this as well since I just purchased an 06 TL Certified with 61620 miles. My fluid is more like a reddish brown and right now even though the fluid has been replaced twice with 1 drain/fill one at around 30k and one just recently at 61620 before sale. I am going to get 3 drain and fill done until my next service I will get the filter replaced then

csmeance

added to the 3G garage! Awesome writeup!

blueridger

You did not specify. (Or maybe I missed it.) Is it safe to assume this for the '04-'06 TL? I'd love to see a similar DIY for the '07-'08.

jda123

This is from an 2006 TL. Sorry about that.

CubanLynx84

iTrader: (2)

Great write up. I am gonna do any tranny fluid change this week. I guess I'm changing the filter too!!

kostya.lyt

iTrader: (1)

I'll have to do this soon. It won't hurt, even if it's not completely necessary.

SharksBreath

iTrader: (33)

+1

i wonder how much different it would be for an 07/08 type-s A/T. i'm anxious to do this next month when i do my 3x3 atf.

anyone have any insight on this?

jda123

Bring your 2007 to KC and I will do it.

I am starting to think that this should be a necessary maintenance item once you start to see debris on the magnetic plug. We all know that metal shavings are riding around in our transmissions once this starts to happen, so why leave the filter unchanged? Would any of us do this with our engines? I am going to do this every 15K, or so, when I change the fluid.

Does anybody know what you are starving of fluid if/when this filter starts to get clogged?

SharksBreath

iTrader: (33)

alright bud i'll cya in a few hours!

OP, do you know if the 07 type-s model is any different?

craigtl35

thank you great write up

jhumbo

iTrader: (1)

Apparently the trans fluid also has a path that bypasses the filter such that you can never starve anything. Dealers claim that the filter does not need to be replaced and that it is designed to not need replacing. You can just let it keep collecting debris and no harm is done. I asked the dealer to replace the filter for me and they said they never replace it as preventative maintenance and somehow convinced me out of it. Something tells I should give this a try as my first DIY cause I don't see why not replace it.

Slpr04UA6

From what I have read the '07-'08 and Type-s models do NOT have an external filter(external being outside the actual transmission). Only the '04-'06.

jda123

Acura.com in the store. This is on the ATF PIPE page for a 2007, is this internal? I cannot tell from the picture.

SharksBreath

iTrader: (33)

i've heard that before as well. i guess this means i can't change out the filter, either that or it would be a major PITA to do so. still...i would like to do so if at all possible.

anyone else that may know, feel free to chime in!

Dan1629

yup i bought the filter, however it is located behind the inside of the bell housing. 07-08 type-s does not apply to this thread

SharksBreath

iTrader: (33)

^thanks for clearing that up Dan.

so what do we do? just deal with a filthy filter like the one pictured above? seems like a shitty deal.

Inaccurate

Mine is a 2006.

One of the few times that it is actually better to have an older model.










In the illustration above - The washers for the Banjo fitting was changed midway thru the 2006 production run. I ordered two of each version and will "cherry pick" which version is best.







In the quote above - Correction on the typo on the PN #91302. Red text in above quote is the corrected info










Order placed. I used Acura Carland (click here).

jda123

What happens when the filter gets clogged, the dirty fluid bypasses the filter and the junk stays in the system? Seems like the dealer should know better than to say this.

Dan1629

I change my trans every 1500 miles with my oil (mobil 1 ) Fluids are cheap compared to having my car torn apart. I am thinking about putting my own trans filter online by my trans cooler.

jhumbo

iTrader: (1)

Agreed. Like I said, I'm not sure I know why I let the dealer convince me out of this, but they were just so unwilling to take my money and change the filter for me. The dealer also pointed out that the 07s and 08s don't even have an accessible filter. Regardless, I still think that since I've got 125k on my filter I really ought to replace it. Thanks for the DIY. I just might try and tackle this one.

voigt

Read this just in time for my 100k overhaul. Thanks for the write up.

05_NBP_TL

iTrader: (1)

Can anyone confirm on my 99 TL that pic# 14 is the sensor switch that i need to replace (2 required). I read somewhere that it was two different part #'s (28600-P7Z-003 and 28600-P7W-003).

Also part #(25450-P7W-003) only shows for 00-03TL. I plan on replacing atf filter element also.

I looked in 2nd gen section but i have found more related info here. I will complete this on my 99 TL, then my 05 TL later on



Thanks in advance

phambam

I guess if you are an 07 Type-S owner like myself just make sure you change your fluids more frequently. If you are going to go under your car and replace the oil, might as well replace the tranny oil as well. I usually replace the tranny oil every other oil change. Sure it's probably not necessary but it doesn't hurt to have clean fluids.

upnout

iTrader: (6)

good info, will be doing mine this month

JRM3

Great DIY.

jda123

FYI - I did my last 1x4 with synthetic fluid this last weekend (4 total) and the magnetic plug was completely clean of debris - when I wiped it off, all that I got off of it was red fluid with not even a hit of greyish black. It had been about 5K since I had the plug out.

Not sure if the filter is helping trap the metal shavings, but I am going to start changing this filter every 20K or so.

estabro

Why is ATF filter replacement not part of any service interval? Not even the big 100K service?

Is it assumed that the filter will perform sufficiently for the life of the transmission?

dajonx

I have a question about the first picture. How do I move the power wire from the airbox? I'm currently stuck on that part... :/ T

dajonx

Can someone please help?

jda123

You just pinch the bottom and pull them out.

usmarinedelta

iTrader: (1)

For those who've did this, did they notice any improvement or differences?

08WDPTL

Did anyone ever answer JDA's question? I'm still a little unclear on whether the 07-08 trannys have a replaceable filter or is it non-servicable?