papiowhisperer

Will this package also fit on an 03+ Accord 6MT?

Legend2TL

Did you mean the clutch slave cylinder is self-adjusting?
I've never seen or heard of a self-adjusting pressure plate before, even in multi-disk clutch racing applications.

geekybiker

I had a clutch fail in a similar fashion before (pedal to the floor, unable to disengage the clutch) And it was the slave cylinder. It could be an intermittent problem with the slave thats causing the clutch to not fully disengage.

MrHeeltoe

iTrader: (1)

CL, TL, and Accord Mts are all available.




No I meant pressure plate. And I had not heard of them either before this.

Tripnbeats

not for nothing but even though it has an "auto adjusting clutch" its still a piece of shi* I think honda could've done a better job on the clutches especially on this car.... I drove an NSX and a 06 S2000 this weekend and god damn to those things have tight clutches!

6spMike

I had never heard of this either, but if you google 'self adjusting pressure plate', a bunch of stuff comes up. I haven't had time to look through it enough to figure out how it works.

Usually a failure in the hydraulic system results in very little force on the pedal to get it to the floor, since it is not working the pressure plate. The pedal effort never changed on mine.

They are:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...clutch+failure
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...clutch+failure
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...clutch+failure
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...clutch+failure
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...clutch+failure
Plus a bunch of others I couldn't find in 5 min of searching.

Marcus, I'd garner a guess that there are some fine balancing acts between the clamping pressure and the adjusting features in these pressure plates. How can you be sure that the adjusting feature will work properly with the new clamping pressure without testing it?

Having the self-adjusting feature on my old clutch fail (by over-adjusting) fits all of the symptoms. It would get hot, because the clutch never was really disengaged; It always started to grab close to the floor; and it failed by not disengaging with plenty of disc thickness left, because it self-adjusted past the ability of the slave cylinder.
Anybody here know the mechanics of how they self-adjust?
Thanks!!
Mike

jedblanks

I was reading through this post and trying to solve the mystery in my head. Here's my

From what I read above, you had the fluid changed for the third gear issue. Which dealership did that? I wonder if they did not do it properly? Maybe they didn't fill it to the correct level or maybe they didn't bleed it good or maybe they used "bad" fluid.

The failure you are having (stuck, pedal to the floor) is common with C5s and the consensus there is that the fluid is the problem (it boils and degrades). Since its a hydraulic failure, that's usually fluid related.

The clutch/flywheel pics did not look great, but also did not look like the cause of the failure you had.

My recommendation would be to change the clutch/brake fluid every 15000 miles or so. You can do this by sucking the fluid out of the resevior (Don't go past the "min" mark) and refilling it several times, with a couple of days driving in between each time (until the fluid that comes out of the resevior looks like the new fluid you are putting in). My brake fluid (AT) looked disgusting, like muddy water, after 20,000 miles.

6spMike

Thanks Jed.
The transmission fluid (gear oil) was changed by the dealer in Tucson.
The clutch actuation hydraulic fluid (it uses brake fluid) was never in question, because it never felt like there was air in the lines. I'm assuming in the C5s, this failure occurs with a drastic reduction in pedal effort, right?
I think now that the 3rd gear problem is a symptom of the pressure plate over-adjusting, such that the clutch always drags a little. 3rd must be more susceptible than the other gears.

6spMike

Another observation that fits the over-adjust hypothesis is the dealer said the distance between the pressure plate (pp) friction surface and the throwout bearing fingers was smaller than on the new plate.
The stated function of the self adjusting pp, from the patents I saw online, is to keep the same pp operation regardless of disc wear. In order to do this, it must make the above distance smaller; otherwise as the disc wears, the linkage travel must get longer and longer. Most cars handle this with a long-travel slave cylinder that self-adjusts the same way disc brakes do. Our cars use this new self-adjusting pp.

jedblanks

If you clutch was dragging (for whatever reason) it could have over-heated the hydraulic fluid. Are the reserviors on the TL for the master(brake) and slave(clutch) cylinders the same or seperate? I don't know since I have at AT Acura. It has seperate labels for clutch and brake fluid on the plastic cover....

Someone in this thread mentioned a check valve in the hydraulic system for the clutch. When the check valve sticks in the C5 six-speed, the pedal is stuck to the floor. In other cases it has a similar result to the acura -- reduced pedal travel...

In any case, many people have this problem on Corvette Six Speeds and it can be solved by changing the fluid -- thereby prolonging clutch/slave life and bringing pedal travel back to normal.

Definitely check your Brake/clutch fluid if you start to feel the clutch acting funny again.

jedblanks

Definitely check your Brake/clutch fluid if you start to feel the clutch acting funny again. You may be able to prolong life and return operation to normal.

Legend2TL

One thing to add in the mystery of all this is that there is a special tool used for installation of the clutch and pressure plate in the Acura shop manual. It states that failure to use this special tool will result in damage to the pressure plate. I wonder if this is some tool to preload the selfadjuster mechanism for the pressure plate?

6spMike

Picture?
I still don't understand how the self-adjust mechanism works.

Legend2TL

There is a picture and Acura/Honda tool number in the factory shop manual. The tool is NOT a clutch disk alignment tool when mounting the pressure plate. This special tool mounted to the backside of the pressure plate, the pressure plate is installed onto the flywheel.

6spMike

Backside meaning transmission side of the pressure plate?
Does it have some fingers or features that grab some 'internal' parts of the pressure plate?
Then the pressure plate is mounted to the flywheel and the tool removed?
Thanks Legend!

Legend2TL

Yes, some bolts are screwed into the pressure plate, and then the tool and pressure plate installed onto the flywheel. Then the tool bolts are removed and the tool removed.

722ish

To see a surface damaged like that, i would picture much more aggressive wear on the disc. I dont think that both parts represent an issue that is the driver, so much as garbage/defective parts. Maybe all of them are like that, im irritated with this same situation, and i have 40+ k on a 6 puck unsprung hub clutch, with enough clamping force to keep a single disc strong at 1000hp. It doesnt slip, or have any odd wear. period.

this is crap, and what acura is doing is rediculous. This is an issue they let the cars leave the production line with. We as customers pay for something we excpect at least decent service life out of, and when they all break at 40k miles, and we dont think its fair, they still dont care. The techs can tell more than they are willing to admit if someone has beaten on the car. Its more blatant than a guess. I was accused of abuse, and the transmission was never out of the car! they said the flywheel had cracks on it, yet somehow, there is no way to see past a full faced disc when the trans is in the car!

im fairly upset about all this to be honest!

good luck

take care
Mark

S PAW 1

I'm closing in on 60K miles. No problems except for the 3rd gear hangup. Changing to new Honda formula helped somewhat. Looking to trade (or sell outright) for an '07 Type "S", or the Avalon with touring package because I'm just ready for the stress free automatic.


'05 6MT NBP
A-Spec suspension
K&N Typhoon intake
245/40/17 Michelin Pilot A/S's
DeBadged rear except for A
V1 on the lookout

weedeater

I didn't like the Avalon Touring seats: padding too thin. Maybe I need a bigger butt.