How to check Tranny Fluid
Yea engine running, park it and put it in each gear (P,D,L...) for a few seconds each then leave it running and check it, makes sure the cars at running temp, where is the dip stick for checking it on an 06?
Check it with the engine off, full temp, level ground, not too long after shutdown.
The reason for checking it within a minute or so of shutdown is convertor drainback. It's not supposed to drain back, there's a valve to stop that but sometimes it fails and the trans level will rise way above the full mark giving a false reading. On 99% of the cars you could wait 30 minutes and it would be fine.
The reason for checking it within a minute or so of shutdown is convertor drainback. It's not supposed to drain back, there's a valve to stop that but sometimes it fails and the trans level will rise way above the full mark giving a false reading. On 99% of the cars you could wait 30 minutes and it would be fine.
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Mileage. Color is not an indication as the fluid is dyed red and will change and darken over time. If it's burnt it would also be an indicator that a change is due.
ATF is checked after car/fluid up to temp, shut car off and check within 60-90 seconds as per the FSM.
ATF is checked after car/fluid up to temp, shut car off and check within 60-90 seconds as per the FSM.
ck the owner manual for exact procedure
(my gen2 is drive 15 minutes freeway cruise-stop on level ground- ck with engine runn..hmmm better read the book again to see if on or off) lol
If you dont have the owner book go to gen3 Garage section on here- free download or read online-link
(my gen2 is drive 15 minutes freeway cruise-stop on level ground- ck with engine runn..hmmm better read the book again to see if on or off) lol
If you dont have the owner book go to gen3 Garage section on here- free download or read online-link
my manual is sitting in my lap and it tells me for my car (07 type-s)
park on level ground
run engine until fan comes on
shut off engine
for best results wait 60 sec. but not longer than 90sec. to check level
add if needed
park on level ground
run engine until fan comes on
shut off engine
for best results wait 60 sec. but not longer than 90sec. to check level
add if needed
You guys make this complicated. Just check it with the engine off and fully warm. If it's not fully warm, it will read a little low, no big deal. I've checked mine enough that I know where it's supposed to be hot or cold. There really isn't much difference. I could just imagine some of you waiting until the fan comes on and the rushing around to the front of the car with a stop watch and pulling the dipstick at exactly the right time lol.
Check the owner's manual, but scheduled service is 100,000 miles under normal driving conditions. If the fluid is dark brown and has a burnt odor when smelled, change. As it's a fairly simple procedure, most change it at shorter intervals.
forget the owner manual service time advice and 100 till change--a lot has been learned since those were written
burnt fluid is obvious to the nose
many of us are changing 3 qts every 15 or 30 kmiles, some are doing the full 12 qt procedure every 30--clean fresh oil is always a good thing
I say FOLLOW the manual for your year as there are differances
Should not be low or there is a problem somewhere- called a leak!!
I hate cars: Noobs dont know how to interpret fluid level readings like you do,,
so lets have them follow the book procedure on this one,, ok?
burnt fluid is obvious to the nose
many of us are changing 3 qts every 15 or 30 kmiles, some are doing the full 12 qt procedure every 30--clean fresh oil is always a good thing
I say FOLLOW the manual for your year as there are differances
Should not be low or there is a problem somewhere- called a leak!!
I hate cars: Noobs dont know how to interpret fluid level readings like you do,,
so lets have them follow the book procedure on this one,, ok?
I agree that the process is fairly simple; but getting off both the filler bolt and the drain bolt are no easy tasks. I ended up re-filling through the dipstick hole and I broke a socket wrench trying to get off the drain bolt.
I'm aware that the factory torques all bolts to specifications. But I swear, even if they were torqued a lot less, it's highly unlikely that any of the fluid bolts would fall off during driving.
Sometimes I almost feel like they just want your $80 (transmission drain and re-fill) to get off one damn bolt. I've been changing my own oil for years, and I've always hand-torqued my bolts when tightening and never had a problem. Just my two cents. Be gentle if you're gonna start with the torque-specification spiel.
I'm aware that the factory torques all bolts to specifications. But I swear, even if they were torqued a lot less, it's highly unlikely that any of the fluid bolts would fall off during driving.
Sometimes I almost feel like they just want your $80 (transmission drain and re-fill) to get off one damn bolt. I've been changing my own oil for years, and I've always hand-torqued my bolts when tightening and never had a problem. Just my two cents. Be gentle if you're gonna start with the torque-specification spiel.
I agree that the process is fairly simple; but getting off both the filler bolt and the drain bolt are no easy tasks. I ended up re-filling through the dipstick hole and I broke a socket wrench trying to get off the drain bolt.
I'm aware that the factory torques all bolts to specifications. But I swear, even if they were torqued a lot less, it's highly unlikely that any of the fluid bolts would fall off during driving.
Sometimes I almost feel like they just want your $80 (transmission drain and re-fill) to get off one damn bolt. I've been changing my own oil for years, and I've always hand-torqued my bolts when tightening and never had a problem. Just my two cents. Be gentle if you're gonna start with the torque-specification spiel.
I'm aware that the factory torques all bolts to specifications. But I swear, even if they were torqued a lot less, it's highly unlikely that any of the fluid bolts would fall off during driving.
Sometimes I almost feel like they just want your $80 (transmission drain and re-fill) to get off one damn bolt. I've been changing my own oil for years, and I've always hand-torqued my bolts when tightening and never had a problem. Just my two cents. Be gentle if you're gonna start with the torque-specification spiel.
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