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Help: Rear Lug Stud Replacement

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Old 04-12-2018, 12:36 PM
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Burning Brakes
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Help: Rear Lug Stud Replacement

Last fall when I put my car in storage, I noticed that I cross-threaded one of my lug studs and it actually snapped . Stupid Josh..

I'm getting ready to take my TL out of storage and it's time to replace the rear lug stud. From my understanding, you can replace the front lug studs without removing the hub assembly if you grind the lug down on one side and bend back (or cut off) the splash shield.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-p...-studs-790653/

However, it does not appear that you can do so on the rears without removing the entire hub assembly. Is this correct? Below is a picture of a fellow Aziner I found, demonstrating my dilemma:


In theory, if the hub slides right off, replacing the lug should be a breeze. However, I live in Michigan, and due to rust, I"m worried that if the hub assembly gets stuck, the race will separate and remain stuck on the spindle. If that happens, I've seen others use a Dremel/chisel to cut the race off or use a Posi lock. However, my hub does not need to be replaced, so I'm wondering if it is possible to remove my entire rear hub assembly in one piece to avoid getting the race re-pressed (or buying a new hub assembly altogether)?

Maybe, I"m overthinking this. It's just a dang lug stud for crying out loud lol!

Thanks in advance for your feedback.
Old 04-12-2018, 12:39 PM
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LMGTFY

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-t...nstall-843718/
Old 04-12-2018, 02:17 PM
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You can rent a hub puller if you can't pull the hub off easily after the nut is removed.
Old 04-12-2018, 02:39 PM
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Thanks thoiboi. I did see this thread in the garage, but didn't see an answer to my specific question. I'll need to re-read.

guitarplayer16, I did think about using a hub pulling tool, but wasn't sure if this will keep the outer assembly from becoming separated from the race. As a caveat, I should mention that this was the first winter my TL was in storage, so rust is always in the back of my mind.
Old 04-12-2018, 08:46 PM
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I've replaced my rear wheel studs before, and I dont think I even grinded the stud head. You will need to remove the brake shoes for clearance though, and you can get it in with some finesse.
IIRC, it was a tight fit when pulling it through from the rear, so I had to use a die to clean up the threads a bit. No big deal though.
Old 04-13-2018, 08:32 AM
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Great, thanks for the feedback. I'll look into it.
Old 04-13-2018, 07:11 PM
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I had to do this exact repair late last year when the dealer cross threaded one of my rear studs. My memory is a little hazy though. But I do remember that I didnt have to pull the hub out, but i assume that makes the job alot easier. Took out the rotor(which was a bitch to take off for some reason for me). Had to disassemble the rear brake shoes to make room. Cut/bent a small part of the heatshield to gain access to a particular area where its easiest for the stud to come out. Hammered it out. Grinded down a small part of the new stud so it can be inserted in the rear of the hub. Used a lug nut and some washers to tighten it down the stud.
I believe that's what I did, but i dont have the best memory lol. Hope that helps
Old 04-16-2018, 09:26 AM
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That's actually extremely helpful. Thanks for the input. I'll have to look into how to disassemble the parking brake components. That's a task I've actually never had to handle before.

I was tempted to get my car out of storage this past weekend. Thanks to the lovely Michigan weather, we received a lovely ice/snow storm... in April.
Old 04-16-2018, 10:36 AM
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That was my first time dissaembling the rear shoes. I had a Repair manual, with a picture of the parts, that really helped. Buy one if you haven't already.
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