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G-109: DIY-Eliminate LED Bulb Induced Hyper flashing WITHOUT LOAD RESISTORS

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Old 01-30-2013, 04:08 PM
  #961  
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looks like I'll try the .24 ohm then. project tl you think you could send me one if you still have ? that would be awesome
Old 03-01-2013, 04:54 AM
  #962  
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Originally Posted by LockDots
It absolutely does matter if you care about longevity. Use Rosin care, not Acid Core. Acid core will eat away at the joint/PCB over time. Most Rosin core solder already has flux inside it.
This is super important, typical solder for electronics has the necessary flux in the rosin core already, the only solder I have seen which require additional flux are the plumbing type and the flux is based on acid, good if you are soldering copper pipes, but very bad for electronics!
Old 03-01-2013, 07:57 AM
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I've been wondering this for years...thanks for the clarification.
Old 03-14-2013, 01:31 AM
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hmm anyone have .12 resistors available still?
Old 03-14-2013, 01:33 AM
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I think I still have a few at home. Ill look for them
Old 03-14-2013, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by dontTL'em'nothing
hmm anyone have .12 resistors available still?
i have a couple .24 left
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Old 03-15-2013, 12:03 PM
  #967  
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/200pcs-1W-Watt-12K-Ohm-1-Axial-Metal-Film-Resistor-/181037487479?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item2a26acd577
anyone know if these would work? or does it have to be 5% resistance instead of 1%?
Old 03-15-2013, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by es08tg
anyone know if these would work? or does it have to be 5% resistance instead of 1%?
No, those are 12K ohm Resistors, what you need is 0.24 ohm resistors. The resistor you listed is fifty thousand times "bigger" than what you need.
Old 03-15-2013, 12:44 PM
  #969  
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-W-Watt-0-12-ohm-0-12ohm-R-Metal-Film-Resistor-1W-1-10pcs-/221065895459?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item33788dde23
Sorry I meant to link a 0.12 ohm because I'll only be using the front switchbacks. 0.24 is only needed when the tail light turn signals are LEDs as well correct? And to ask again, does the resistance value mean anything? Or will I be fine with +/- 1% vs. +/- 5%?
Old 03-15-2013, 12:53 PM
  #970  
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i have a flasher relay that i modded with one .12 resistor that i'll send to anyone that pays for the shipping

i ended up buying a second flasher relay to mod with a .24 resister, so its just laying around.
Old 03-15-2013, 01:50 PM
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^^^I'll vouch for that guy. He sells and ships out immediately.
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Old 03-15-2013, 04:58 PM
  #972  
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Originally Posted by rockstar143
^^^I'll vouch for that guy. He sells and ships out immediately.
thanks man

anyone interested, just pm me
Old 03-28-2013, 03:09 PM
  #973  
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i went to radio shack and all they had were 10 ohm 1 watt resistors with 5% tolerance. would 10 ohms be too much? just want to make sure because i figured i could just go and buy them instead of waiting a week for them to come.
Old 03-28-2013, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by wilzrsx
i have a flasher relay that i modded with one .12 resistor that i'll send to anyone that pays for the shipping.
Is this still available? And how much for shipping to 11570?
Old 03-28-2013, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by tlmailman
Is this still available? And how much for shipping to 11570?
pm sent
Old 04-03-2013, 11:29 AM
  #976  
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regarding the flasher relay that i modded with one .12 ohm resistor, its for a '04 TL.

checking the part numbers, it looks like the '04 TL part number is different than the 05-08 TLs

also, the .12 ohm resistor is meant for those running just LEDs in the front OR rear, not both.

if anyone with a '04 is interested, i'll send it to you, just pay for shipping
Old 04-03-2013, 02:38 PM
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I was wondering if anyone in here tell me why my newly installed eBay LED turn signals (front and rear) will not flash on and off ONLY while my headlights are on? I have a .24 ohm resistor installed on the relay and they work fine when my headlights are off but as soon as I switch them on they just stay on all the time.
Old 04-03-2013, 10:48 PM
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I'm using led's front and rear and i'm only using the .12 ohms reisitor and it work fine, no hyper flashing.
Old 04-05-2013, 06:20 PM
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i followed everything step by step and now my turn signals dont even work anymore maybe i just suck at soldering
Old 04-11-2013, 04:36 PM
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I have 05 tl with front switchbacks and rear leds, do I use the.12 or the .24 ohm resistor. Some say .12 work some say .24 then others can't get either to work.
Old 04-11-2013, 11:43 PM
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0.24 ohm
Old 04-11-2013, 11:48 PM
  #982  
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^^^ this !!!
Old 04-12-2013, 01:41 PM
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Cool, my head was about to blow reading all of this! does anyone here have one for sell b4 I order mine?
Old 05-23-2013, 11:32 PM
  #984  
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Originally Posted by Rickyp39
I was wondering if anyone in here tell me why my newly installed eBay LED turn signals (front and rear) will not flash on and off ONLY while my headlights are on? I have a .24 ohm resistor installed on the relay and they work fine when my headlights are off but as soon as I switch them on they just stay on all the time.
Im having the same issue when my headlights are on my dash shows the green arrow just constantly on instead of blinking just stays on. Turn signals only work with headlights off. Will the resistor mod fix this issue? Or is it something else?
Old 05-24-2013, 12:30 AM
  #985  
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Originally Posted by tito914
Im having the same issue when my headlights are on my dash shows the green arrow just constantly on instead of blinking just stays on. Turn signals only work with headlights off. Will the resistor mod fix this issue? Or is it something else?
Do your turn signals hyper flash with the headlights off? Or do they work normally?

I'm assuming they hyper flash so I'll tell you what happened with me. After I soldered the .24 ohm resistor to the flasher relay my turn signals both front and rear flashed normally ONLY with the healights OFF. When I would turn my headlights ON I still had the same problem with the signals everywhere and even on my dash staying on constantly. So what I did was removed the rear LEDs ONLY and by doing that I was able to use my signals during the day and night normally. This is how my car is currently. The only thing that is wrong is that when my headlights are ON at night my front LEDs do not illuminate half intensity. They only turn on when I signal. Does that make sense?

Oh and when I unlock my car they don't flash either.
Old 05-30-2013, 05:28 PM
  #986  
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Hi all,

First time poster, noob here by the way...i recently purchased a 2007 Acura TL-S 6MT and I saw this mod and I couldn't resist. Everything seemed to go well, all of my LED's work fine after soldering in the 0.24 ohm resistor. The only thing is when I turn on my hazards(with no parking lights or HIDs) my navigation/air conditioning buttons flash with the hazards. If I have my Parking lights on with the hazards, they don't flash(It works perfect).

Any ideas why this is happening. Any help is greatly appreciated and thanks in advance.
Old 05-31-2013, 06:33 AM
  #987  
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strange... mines seem to work fine. Didn't even know the navi and air con buttons are related to the signals.
Old 05-31-2013, 06:46 AM
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All these problems likely have to do with bad solder jobs. The button lights are on the same parking light circuit as the turn signals so they will also be affected by any electrical problems. If you bridge any of the traces on the relay's circuit board there will be issues.
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Old 05-31-2013, 10:41 AM
  #989  
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Originally Posted by 07WDPUA7
Hi all,

First time poster, noob here by the way...i recently purchased a 2007 Acura TL-S 6MT and I saw this mod and I couldn't resist. Everything seemed to go well, all of my LED's work fine after soldering in the 0.24 ohm resistor. The only thing is when I turn on my hazards(with no parking lights or HIDs) my navigation/air conditioning buttons flash with the hazards. If I have my Parking lights on with the hazards, they don't flash(It works perfect).

Any ideas why this is happening. Any help is greatly appreciated and thanks in advance.
Post a picture of your relay solder job. The clearer the better and we'd be able to help out. Most likely a shorted trace.
Old 06-01-2013, 06:16 AM
  #990  
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That relay is a PITA to remove especially with the clutch pedal right there, its probably my solder job that messed everything up. I mean it looked fine when I was finished but maybe there were traces of solder on the tracks. Should I just get a new relay and try again?

Thanks
Old 06-13-2013, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by vietxquangstah
I was thinking.... since you can do this to prevent hyperflash for front and rear led turn signals, I noticed when installing LED DRLs (sorry, i know this is a diff subject) you have to also install a load resistor (like ijdmtoy, v-leds, etc).

Is there such thing as a 'DRL relay module' that is in the fuse box somewhere that we can perhaps pull out, simply solder in a new resistor (much like we did for our front/rear led signals), and plug it back in and still be able to use OEM stock halogen, and whenever we decide to upgrade to LEDs we can just swap the DRLs and still not have to worry about load resistor? and possibly prevent DRL light on the dashboard from appearing too because due to the resistor being in place, the computer believes the LED is getting the correct amount as a halogen ?

just a thought. i noticed no one ever mentioned it so i thought i'd just throw it out there
Did this ever get answered? I'm looking to do LED DRLs and am wondering if this would work.
Old 06-13-2013, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by gilla_monster
Did this ever get answered? I'm looking to do LED DRLs and am wondering if this would work.
Nope never got answered. I ended up using the iJDMtoy harness lol
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Old 06-13-2013, 11:46 PM
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I never got y anyone would really care so much about using load resistors. coming from an electrician, they are perfectly ok to use! lol I'm running two or my drls and two for my switchbacks. i see ur gripe i guess but y make more work for urself when they'll never comprise ur setup
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Old 06-14-2013, 12:59 AM
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I am hoping to resolve my led problems soon.
Old 06-27-2013, 10:08 PM
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Talking

Thank you. Worked perfectly!
Old 06-28-2013, 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by cazio
I never got y anyone would really care so much about using load resistors. coming from an electrician, they are perfectly ok to use! lol I'm running two or my drls and two for my switchbacks. i see ur gripe i guess but y make more work for urself when they'll never comprise ur setup
It's an inefficient work around that wastes energy. Soldering a resistor is a piece of cake and cheap.
Old 06-29-2013, 06:39 PM
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I'm currently using load resistors with only front switchbacks and was thinking of doing this mod.

first of all when i double click my alarm to arm, it makes the noise but my switchbacks do not blink. side markers and mirrors and tail lights do. Does the load resistors have something to do with this?

and where can i find the 0.24 ohm resistor??
Old 06-30-2013, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by AZP-TL
It's an inefficient work around that wastes energy. Soldering a resistor is a piece of cake and cheap.
And where is the "saved" energy going?

Originally Posted by styles109
I'm currently using load resistors with only front switchbacks and was thinking of doing this mod.

first of all when i double click my alarm to arm, it makes the noise but my switchbacks do not blink. side markers and mirrors and tail lights do. Does the load resistors have something to do with this?

and where can i find the 0.24 ohm resistor??
Most likely due to the LED light itself. Some of them have capacitors built in which take a little bit of time to charge and discharge. This delay in charging causes there to be a 'turn-on delay'.
Old 06-30-2013, 03:10 PM
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^ It's a lighter load on the battery/alternator; obviously it's barely registrable but regardless it's less unnecessary heat and as I said, cheap and easy. Anywhere there's heat there's inefficiencies. Actually, without the load resistors your LEDs would be able to run a good bit longer strictly off the battery, such as the hazards.
Old 07-02-2013, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by AZP-TL
^ It's a lighter load on the battery/alternator; obviously it's barely registrable but regardless it's less unnecessary heat and as I said, cheap and easy. Anywhere there's heat there's inefficiencies. Actually, without the load resistors your LEDs would be able to run a good bit longer strictly off the battery, such as the hazards.
This is the only real benefit I see. Not much of one if you're not using your hazards with the engine off often, but a benefit nonetheless.


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