G-100: DIY LED Interior Conversion, Part III: Steering Wheel
#1
Drifting
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G-100: DIY LED Interior Conversion, Part III: Steering Wheel
Dan (Six Sigma BB) and I have been collaborating on the LED conversion. I have gotten pretty far along with my dash and had posted these instructions in another thread. I wanted to re-post them under the same threadname format to make it easier for people to find. So here we go:
Dan posted some good pics of how he designed his mini-bulb LEDs. Here is the link I used for my project with instructions on how to solder the resistors onto the LEDs and get them into the mini-bulb holder:
http://www.n4te.com/images/acura/leds/guide/
I modified my design a bit by making the positive lead a good bit longer and wrapping with electrical tape. This made it easier to lay the whole assembly down behind the switch when I re-attached it. These wheel switches have very little clearance behind them, so you need to keep everything flat for them to go back in correctly and look good. Here is a pic of my bulbs under construction:
You can see the negative leads bent around the plastic holder. The positive leads (with the resistors) were covered with electrical tape and bent back to the plastic holder and the ends wrapped around. It was a bit unwieldy, but it worked.
To get the airbag off the steering wheel--disconnect both terminals from the battery (negative cable first) and wait 5 minutes for the SLS to discharge. Remove the cover plate from the bottom of the airbag to expose the horn and airbag connectors. Pull the larger connector out (airbag) and disconnect it---it has a safety type disconnect which you have to pull the shield back, then pull the plug out. It took me a while to figure it out, but I'm smart like that!
There are two #30 Torx screws on either side of the wheel you must remove to get the airbag off. Disconnect the horn switch and GENTLY set down the airbag in a safe location. Seriously, I have heard of these things going off and flying 30 feet into the air. Do not jostle or drop it and place it outside of the car while you are working and you will be fine.
Your HFL controls are easy to get to---2 phillips head screws at about the 7 o'clock position on the wheel. The radio and cruise switches each have 2 small phillips head screws coming in from the back of the wheel (the side closest to the front of the car). Unplug the connectors and remove all 3 units.
Each unit has 2 mini-bulbs (the link above has detailed pics). Basically, you take a small flathead screwdriver and turn the bulbs to disengage them. Pull them out and proceed with removing the incandescents and installing the LEDs. When replacing the mini-bulb assemblies, I had a lot of trouble figuring out which lead was which and wound up using the trial and error method to figure out + and -. If you recognize an easy way to tell, please share.
Once you have everything back together connect the units back to the plugs on the wheel. You do not need to reconnect the airbag at this time. Re-connect the battery and turn on the lights to make sure they all work. LEDs are polarized so if any do not light try removing them, turning them 180 degrees and re-inserting. Once you have everything working, disconnect the battery and wait 5-10 minutes to both discharge the SLS and clear the engine computer of the missing airbag code and put everything back in place.
HFL:
Volume:
Cruise:
I do have hotspots that I have yet to troubleshoot. This seems to be a common problem on these LED swaps. On my car, the top buttons (MODE and CRUISE ON/OFF) are hotter than the bottom buttons. Also, the HFL buttons are hotter than the phone control buttons.
Wheel:
I hope this helps folks out. There are a ton of threads asking how to change out these bulbs, whether using LEDs or the stock incandescent bulbs.
Dan posted some good pics of how he designed his mini-bulb LEDs. Here is the link I used for my project with instructions on how to solder the resistors onto the LEDs and get them into the mini-bulb holder:
http://www.n4te.com/images/acura/leds/guide/
I modified my design a bit by making the positive lead a good bit longer and wrapping with electrical tape. This made it easier to lay the whole assembly down behind the switch when I re-attached it. These wheel switches have very little clearance behind them, so you need to keep everything flat for them to go back in correctly and look good. Here is a pic of my bulbs under construction:
You can see the negative leads bent around the plastic holder. The positive leads (with the resistors) were covered with electrical tape and bent back to the plastic holder and the ends wrapped around. It was a bit unwieldy, but it worked.
To get the airbag off the steering wheel--disconnect both terminals from the battery (negative cable first) and wait 5 minutes for the SLS to discharge. Remove the cover plate from the bottom of the airbag to expose the horn and airbag connectors. Pull the larger connector out (airbag) and disconnect it---it has a safety type disconnect which you have to pull the shield back, then pull the plug out. It took me a while to figure it out, but I'm smart like that!
There are two #30 Torx screws on either side of the wheel you must remove to get the airbag off. Disconnect the horn switch and GENTLY set down the airbag in a safe location. Seriously, I have heard of these things going off and flying 30 feet into the air. Do not jostle or drop it and place it outside of the car while you are working and you will be fine.
Your HFL controls are easy to get to---2 phillips head screws at about the 7 o'clock position on the wheel. The radio and cruise switches each have 2 small phillips head screws coming in from the back of the wheel (the side closest to the front of the car). Unplug the connectors and remove all 3 units.
Each unit has 2 mini-bulbs (the link above has detailed pics). Basically, you take a small flathead screwdriver and turn the bulbs to disengage them. Pull them out and proceed with removing the incandescents and installing the LEDs. When replacing the mini-bulb assemblies, I had a lot of trouble figuring out which lead was which and wound up using the trial and error method to figure out + and -. If you recognize an easy way to tell, please share.
Once you have everything back together connect the units back to the plugs on the wheel. You do not need to reconnect the airbag at this time. Re-connect the battery and turn on the lights to make sure they all work. LEDs are polarized so if any do not light try removing them, turning them 180 degrees and re-inserting. Once you have everything working, disconnect the battery and wait 5-10 minutes to both discharge the SLS and clear the engine computer of the missing airbag code and put everything back in place.
HFL:
Volume:
Cruise:
I do have hotspots that I have yet to troubleshoot. This seems to be a common problem on these LED swaps. On my car, the top buttons (MODE and CRUISE ON/OFF) are hotter than the bottom buttons. Also, the HFL buttons are hotter than the phone control buttons.
Wheel:
I hope this helps folks out. There are a ton of threads asking how to change out these bulbs, whether using LEDs or the stock incandescent bulbs.
#4
Drifting
Thread Starter
iTrader: (13)
^^Yes, I sanded them down to help with fitment and also to cut down on the hot spots. I think it may be the bulbs angle of light dispersion. Six Sigma BB is using 120degree bulbs for his project. I believe mine were not that wide of an angle (have to double check on oznium.com). I have seen v-leds.com now has mini bulbs which use SMTs with a 180 degree throw. They are $3.99 and look to be the correct size for our application. I will order a few to see how they work and will post my results.
#5
Drifting
Thread Starter
iTrader: (13)
Thanks. I actually have gotten pretty far, but held up in posting in order to collaborate with Dan (Six Sigma BB) on the documentation. I was going "balls to the wall" on this project over the summer, but have slacked off a bit now. I still have the radio and center console controls to do. I neglected documenting most of my work so far, and plan to get more pics as I do those final locations.
Dave
Dave
#6
Drifting
Thread Starter
iTrader: (13)
Man, I love the 3G Garage.
Here are service manual scans for removing the airbag and switches:
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/steering-wheel-switches-cruise-radio-air-bag-removal-3g-garage-f-160-a-606220/
Pictures are worth a thousand words!
Here are service manual scans for removing the airbag and switches:
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/steering-wheel-switches-cruise-radio-air-bag-removal-3g-garage-f-160-a-606220/
Pictures are worth a thousand words!
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#8
Drifting
Thread Starter
iTrader: (13)
Thanks, Rocky. Means a lot.
I spent about 45 mins before posting this DIY looking for a particular thread where the member replaced his OEM bulbs. I wanted it for the pics but couldn't find it to save my life. Here is the thread (its an old one): https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/heated-seats-light-dont-work-plz-helpp-628348/ Post #11 & #12. Thanks to aradagebeya.
I spent about 45 mins before posting this DIY looking for a particular thread where the member replaced his OEM bulbs. I wanted it for the pics but couldn't find it to save my life. Here is the thread (its an old one): https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/heated-seats-light-dont-work-plz-helpp-628348/ Post #11 & #12. Thanks to aradagebeya.
#11
Drifting
Thread Starter
iTrader: (13)
^^Dude--its no big deal. Dan & I have posted DIY threads in the 3G Garage with complete instructions and pics. If you're nervous about the steering wheel, try the instrument panel lights first (MID and brightness)---they are real easy and good confidence builders. The threads are indexed as F-165.
#14
There is a lot of info and I am trying to put it all together myself. I'm debating on the LED option or just the regular lights in terms of the amount of work needed and cost. I'm always glad of the help on the forums. Thanks again.
#16
So not a sociopath
iTrader: (1)
http://www.n4te.com/images/acura/leds/guide/
That link is not working or broken...Can I get the info somewhere else?
That link is not working or broken...Can I get the info somewhere else?
This is the GARAGE
It contains a link to here
There's a whole host of interior LED work under G-100 done by DeathMetal, he's crazy though (mad scientist style).
Here's an alternative to soldering in your own
#20
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