Engine mount diagnosis

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Old 07-12-2023 | 09:06 PM
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PgLgGrg's Avatar
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Engine mount diagnosis

Can anyone tell which of the 3 mounts need replacing? 240k km, most likely never done.

I can see the passenger side mount is cracked a little, and have only recently been experiencing shudder during startup of engine.
YT vid

i got a side mount from autozone and will change that one in a few days, but can you tell if the others also need it?
Old 07-12-2023 | 09:54 PM
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Pair of TLs's Avatar
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Originally Posted by PgLgGrg
Can anyone tell which of the 3 mounts need replacing? 240k km, most likely never done.

I can see the passenger side mount is cracked a little, and have only recently been experiencing shudder during startup of engine.
YT vid

i got a side mount from autozone and will change that one in a few days, but can you tell if the others also need it?
Based on that vid, I'd say they all need to be replaced.
Old 07-13-2023 | 02:03 AM
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To add: Shifting into R has always been worse in terms of a jerk than shifting into D, though both have some jerkiness.
Does this signify one mount is worse than the other?
Old 07-13-2023 | 07:02 AM
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Jesus that's alotta movement with the engine.

Originally Posted by Pair of TLs
Based on that vid, I'd say they all need to be replaced.
I concur
Old 07-19-2023 | 11:04 PM
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Engine mounts

From the sounds of it all 3 engine mounts and I would look at the transmission mounts also. I just did all but the rear engine mount and already a drastic difference In ride quality. Tackling the rear mount is next on the list. I went with all oem mounts cause they lasted 320ks and fit pefectly. Only thing is if you do the rear transmission mount you have to grind down the unthreaded part of the two studs to fit it in. Otherwise you have to drop the subframe.
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joe.abp (07-23-2023)
Old 07-20-2023 | 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Zargs
From the sounds of it all 3 engine mounts and I would look at the transmission mounts also. I just did all but the rear engine mount and already a drastic difference In ride quality. Tackling the rear mount is next on the list. I went with all oem mounts cause they lasted 320ks and fit pefectly. Only thing is if you do the rear transmission mount you have to grind down the unthreaded part of the two studs to fit it in. Otherwise you have to drop the subframe.
You don’t need to drop subframe. Remove the strut bar and rear cat and you will be able to lift and remove it out of the engine bay. Visit my thread for details.
Old 07-20-2023 | 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Acura TL Builder
You don’t need to drop subframe. Remove the strut bar and rear cat and you will be able to lift and remove it out of the engine bay. Visit my thread for details.
This...sounds complex. Am a student in the states, so dont have garage or anything, just some basic tools so i will hold off the rear mount. I did the side mount, and it was noticeably better. Have the front mount i will tackle as well. I hope all i need to remove is the coolant reservoir to get enough space. And hope i can reach the 4 bolts holding the mount down too.
Currently dealing with some braking issues im trying to fix as well.
Old 07-20-2023 | 03:54 PM
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If they salt the roads where you drive, and if the rear cat has never been touched before, those nuts holding the cat on will be the bane of your existence. That job can very quickly go from decent, to your worst nightmare in a snap (get it???)
Old 07-20-2023 | 04:15 PM
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Engine mounts

Originally Posted by Acura TL Builder
You don’t need to drop subframe. Remove the strut bar and rear cat and you will be able to lift and remove it out of the engine bay. Visit my thread for details.
I was talking about doing the rear transmission mount. If you change your engine mounts and leave the transmission mounts the vibration and torque will transfer to the new mounts causing them to wear out prematurely. If the engine mounts are toast chances are the transmission mounts are done also. It was pretty expensive to change all the mounts mind you but I saved on labour by doing it at home. I think all the engine and transmission mounts from the acura dealer ran me about $1300. I went will all oem parts and the piece of mind knowing they would be a direct fit with no Messing around. Good luck and if you have any questions shoot me a message and I'll do my best to help you out.
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Old 07-24-2023 | 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Acura TL Builder
You don’t need to drop subframe. Remove the strut bar and rear cat and you will be able to lift and remove it out of the engine bay. Visit my thread for details.
Can you link to which thread you mean? You've got a lot that you've started, but I don't see a specific title which matches up to mount replacement. Thanks
Old 07-24-2023 | 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Zargs
I think all the engine and transmission mounts from the acura dealer ran me about $1300.
Damn. I've been debating changing my mounts out, but had no idea it could cost that much. Did you buy from the dealer directly, like at the parts counter, or use one of the online dealer stores that have the reduced prices?
Old 07-24-2023 | 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by montero65
Damn. I've been debating changing my mounts out, but had no idea it could cost that much. Did you buy from the dealer directly, like at the parts counter, or use one of the online dealer stores that have the reduced prices?

The price adds up real quick!
OEM vendor before shipping, handling & sales tax total for engine & trans. mounts 07 TL Base:

Next best alternative is to compile the part #'s needed for your TL and feed them into rockautos 'parts number search' tab to save $$$ on aftermarket mounts.
Old 07-25-2023 | 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by montero65
Damn. I've been debating changing my mounts out, but had no idea it could cost that much. Did you buy from the dealer directly, like at the parts counter, or use one of the online dealer stores that have the reduced prices?

I did Mine a few days ago. Well the side and front. Rear is too much of a headache. I got the side mount from Autozone ($30 duralast). Super easy $10 min job.

resr from rock auto. Went with the higher end Beck and Arnley for $60. This was more involved. But definitely unbolt the side mount when doing the front, or else the engine won’t raise up with the jack. Remove the coolant reservoir, and that little o2 sensor bracket out of the way. 1 bolt each.



you need: a jack to lift the engine up a bit, ratchet, extension for ratchet-like 1.5ft, jack, and breaker bar. And one of those pivoting joints for one bolt that you can’t get a straight access to

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