i cant seem to find one with pictures, does it exist? and yes i used search but didnt find a diy, just diy checklist

 

1. Jack the car up.
2. Use jack stands to keep car propped up.
3. Remove oil filler cap.
4. Remove/wipe off engine oil dipstick.
5. Go underneath car with a drain pan and undo the oil pan drain bolt. (Wait until you empty out all of the oil from the pan and reinstall drain bolt (29 lb/ft))
6. Remove oil filter.
7. While the oil is draining from where the oil filter is attached, prefill the new oil filter and lube the oil filter gasket.
8. Once the oil is done draining from where the oil filter is screwed in, install the new oil filter.
9. Lower the car on level ground (remove jack stands).
10. Fill your crankcase up with 4.6l-5l of 5w-20.
11. Start the car and let it run for a minute (look underneath car to see if there are any leaks).
12. Shut off the ignition, let the car sit for a minute.
13. Check the oil level with dipstick.

If the dipstick reads full, you're done!

 

If this is your first time, then it's a good idea to have someone with you who's experienced to talk you through it and to double-check your work.

 

princely nailed it down. i actually went to find you a diy, but it surprisingly wasn't there could've sworn it was. it's best to use a new washer with your oil change (goes into the oil pan), but it isn't required to do so...you can reuse the washer a few times, but more than three times i wouldn't recommend. when you undo the bolt from the oil pan, simply BREAK the bolt and then slowly loosen it with your index finger until it falls off (oil pressure). after doing this a few times, you'll get used to it; i made a mess the first few times. i finally just bought a huge drain pain (rectangular) and let the oil drain into it, and then drained it into a container to hold. don't forget about the oil filter - passenger side, behind the wheel. i've used all sorts of methods to take it off...at one point, i took a small pronged screw driver and hammer it into the filter and turned. righty-tighty, lefty-loosy from your perspective UP (lay on the ground and look up at the filter and follow right, left rule).

 

^
Thanks for the details, Eric. This is why I really didn't want to post, lol.

It makes for a LONG post.

 

My method is a little different and works well for me. I use ramps which I made 10 years ago out of 2x10's to drive the car up onto. The Rhino plastic ramps slide on my driveway. So once the car is on the ramps....

o Remove the filler cap.

o Put a large catch pan under the engine oil pan and remove the drain plug. I use a throwaway kitchen latex glove so as not to get oil on my hand.

o While the oil is draining, I spot check other items and fluids.

o Clean the drain plug, install a new aluminum washer, and thread the drain plug back into the oil pan torquing it to 29 ft/lbs (or 360 in/lbs).

o Prepare the new filter by lightly coating the rubber seal with oil.

o Using a filter wrench, loosen the old filter to the point where you can remove it by hand.

o Slip a 1-gallon heavy duty (freezer) ZipLock bag over the old filter up to and over the pickup arm, then continue to remove the old filter while holding the bag in place. The ZipLock bag with catch all of the residual oil left in the engine which would otherwise make a mess.

o Clean the pickup face which mates to the filter's rubber seal with a paper towel.

o Install the new filter and tighten 3/4's of a turn after initial contact.

o Install 4 1/2 U.S. quarts of new oil in engine.

o Check what you have done and make sure everything is ready for start up.

o Put the filler cap back on, start the engine, wait until the oil light goes out, then raise RPM's up to around 2500 for about 5 to 10 seconds.

o Check the new filter for leaks with a flashlight and paper towel.


You're done.

 

Can someone recommend a good wrench that indicates torque?

 

^
There are MANY different kinds that range in price from cheap to expensive. You can get a $15 torque wrench at Harbor Freight, or a $200 torque wrench from Craftsman or Snap-on.

 

Don't go cheap here. Buy a quality torque wrench. I have three of them.

 

reset ur mid when ur done

 

Oops. Forgot to mention that one.

 

I think someone should upload a diy video of this... this would be greatly appreciated by us noobs.

 

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...+gasket&page=1

here's are some pics and directions

 

this is good. thanks!

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9bMOlOYrMOk

this will help you a lot!!

 

^ I do the above steps as well as these:

a. add about 4 oz of Seafoam in oil and warm up the car by a quick romp in the neighborhood. Seafoam helps clean things out.
b. write the date and mileage on the oil filter with a Sharpee marker. This way there is no doubt about when the oil/filter was changed in case the car gets serviced in the future.

I guess those are the little things a DYI'er can do that a typical JiffyLube won't. Jiffy does strip the drain plug as a no-cost option though.

 

^ - Actually most shops will sign the filter with the date. If it is a franchise they will also write the store number on the filter.

 

Where can I get the washers? I heard you should change them everytime because they are collpasable when you install them and that you should not really used them more than once.

Thanks!

 

bought a bunch from an acura dealer yesterday...easiest place to buy..but I am sure PEP boys, Autozone etc will carry them too...pretty simple looking washer..

 

Just so everyone knows, paul (NAV-UA6) recommends 10-W30, because 5-W25 is too thin . He mentioned something about honda TECH's agreeing, but I forget why they don't do it, even though is should be done.

 

I alternate between 5-30 and 5-40