ChicagoRuss19

1996 Acura 2.5tl 180,000
I use 10w-30 Mobil One and a Mobil One oil filter/Honda Filter and change it every 7k.
before I used it I used a motor flush (availible at any pep boys for $5) to take out any sludge buildup and then poured in the oil. It runs smoother (if you have been running on conventional oil). But if you prefer to use conventional rather then fully synthetic, I recommend Castrol gtx.

P.S. why would you want to stay away from Fram Oil Filters? Aren't they bettery then Purolators?

avs007

Other way around. Main problem with Fram filters is that many of them lack an anti-drainback valve, which makes it so you have no oil in your engine on startup, which is what causes the valvetrain chatter on startup...

Other main problem is that fram filters have paper end-caps as opposed to metal end-caps that everyone else uses.... In theory paper end caps don't seal very well and can leak oil from the clean side to the dirty side and vice-versa.

WantTwoRun?

Eneos 5W30 Synthetic Motor Oil

great stuff

nokiaboy808

try some redline synthetic oil. its one of the best but very pricey...

aznboi2424

iTrader: (10)

I think one thing we can all agree on here is that Purolator filters are better then Fram. Fram filters are just horrible when you open them up but they "still do the job" the Purolator pureone filters are one of the best like Mobile 1, K&N, wix, and napa gold.

aznboi2424

iTrader: (10)

I have read some oil analysis comparasons online that put pennsoil platnium as a very good oil and its cheaper than the big name synthetic oil brands. And as we all know mobil 1 is no longer what it was. I will not follow their 5000, 7500 and 15k oil change intervals as they promise and only treat the full synthetic oil (mobil 1 extended protection 15k) as a regular synthetic oil and change it every 7.5k or so with a high quality filter.
I have also read royal purple is a good oil too. and we all know amsoil is the "comptech" of all motor oils. i would run that to 25k/1yr without a doubt.

darksom1

Hell to the yeah...it's !!!!!!!!!!!

and you will see for yourself!!

I hate cars

How's that SSO working for you?

I'm thinking of switching from my straight 30wt to the SSO since my car usually sees less than 5 minute trips and the oil doesn't fully warm up.

darksom1

From a technical standpoint, I can't begin to weigh in on this topic. I got most of my insight from the online sites and reviews. But my car feels good, no drop-off in performance as far as I can tell. Not sluggish at all on start-up or take-offs in my 06 6MT! Plus, I love the idea of changing my oil at 25K/1-yr. I only do around 13-15K a year so no worries for me!

BEAR-AvHistory

Just to muck the oil thread up a little bit with other brands that have not gotten any play in this thread we had 10 gallons of AeroShell 15W-50 Oil on board yesterday.

Cost about $20 a gallon





Exxon-Mobil also makes a quality oil for these 600HP piston engines. Its a little cheaper then shell at $18.50 a gallon.

If these guys can do military & FAA spec oil for $5.00 a quart, I would have no doubt they can do oil for my car OK.

Like "snavarrette" said, I am just an old tech kinda guy, but then old tech can be a lot of fun.

leedogg

Just because Pennzoil & Mobil have honda in their back pocket, doesnt necessarily mean they are the only ones qualified. Thats like saying Nike makes the best golf gear because Tiger endorses them.

BEAR-AvHistory

I don't know who is in who's pocket.

Honda set a specific standard, HTO-06 & any oil company that can meet it under SAE testing automatically gets approved. Porsche, BMW, MB & a number of other manufactures have a similar standard.

The thing about HTO-06 is that it is the hardest to meet.

If its a hard standard to meet seem like the oils meeting it will be very good performers on the job.

MichaelBenz

iTrader: (2)

Every time I see this thead come back up with a new post on my control panel....its like....

leedogg

I'm not arguing that they arent good performers, I'm saying there are other oils out there just as good, if not better, they just arent being certified for whatever reason.

I should hope that Mobil meets this standard, as quite coincidentally, Honda oil is mobil. Funny how that works huh?

BEAR-AvHistory

Sorry but I am just not into Black Helicopters.

Mobil 1 is also the factory fill on the 505HP Corvette Z-06, the 630HP ZR-1 & the new Nissan GT-R Turbo. It has to have more then bribe money going for it. If it can handle 600+ horse power it should do quite well in a sub 290HP TL

black label

But you gotta change the filter after 6 months and top off the oil level

I hate cars

Not with the EAO filter. It will go as long or longer than the oil. Great filter. I have forced myself to go 15K on the filter. Even though I know it's ok, it's still hard to change my old habits.

darksom1

Thank you for saying that for me!

ozzfest

Anyone familiar with the Kendall motor oil company and their synthetic blend oil?

aznboi2424

iTrader: (10)

So why doesnt everyone just use honda/acura motor oil? their own product should meet their own HTO-06 standard.

aznboi2424

iTrader: (10)

Used it once on my mom's camry and my CL-S cause goodyear was running a oil change special on it. with blends, i run about 5k on them, slightly longer then dino.
as for the brand, thats the first time i even heard of them so i assume its not a high quality/brand name oil. if its cheap, its better then dino. otherwise get something thats more proven and trusted like the brands mentioned here.

Elegant TYPE S

iTrader: (2)

This is easy, Amsoil 0w30, just do your own research and come to your own conclusion. Thats what I did and I couldnt be happier.

Just a little something... Amsoil is the only "true" synthetic oil out there, atleast when I purchaed it. All others that claim they are synthetic were more of a blend or highly refined and being labled as synthetic.

BEAR-AvHistory

They are an old line Pennsylvania motor oil company, about 125 years old, now owned by ConocoPhillips.

They have been producing a racing oil product since the mid 60's.

Used to use it in a number of my muscle cars & strip only cars. Lost track of it when I stopped racing on a regular basis when I moved to England in the early 90's. but there is no reason to think its not a quality product.

ChrisQ1980

I am using Amsoil 0w30 as well. I love it so far. I like knowing I have instant startup protection when I turn the key. My oil light instantly goes out as soon as the engine is done cranking. Nice and smooth on the highway. Already put 1k on it with mixed driving.

I noticed that some J32A3 motors call for the same EAO20 filter as does my 03 J32A2, but some I think 06+ call for the EAO13 filter. Does anyone have any info on that? is the 13 filter bigger/smaller/better? Currently I'm using the EAO20 filter as thats what amsoils website calls for.

Spiritman

Want even more from your AMSOIL? Use the 0-20w! I'll bet you will feel the difference! I did. I too think that the 0-30w WAS the best. With the AMSOIL filter of course! See if you don't feel the difference. I have used AMSOIL since about 1972. Or so....

leedogg

My current stock of amsoil is whatever weight the mfr recommended. 5-30? anyway, its almost gone now and I'll need to reorder...may give 0-20 a shot..

ozzfest

thanks

I hate cars

The 20 is larger overall than the 13. My 06 calls for the 13 but I use the 20. Length, I believe is the same or the 20 may be slightly shorter but it's a much larger diameter.

I hate cars

Kendall makes some good oil. From what I hear, the oil coming straight out of the ground is better than most. With today's refining and additives, most of their advantage is now gone.

Stay away from synthetic blends, they're a rip off. The general concensus is group IV and V oil are considered synthetics. Mobil 1 tried to market their group III (a highly refined dino oil) as a synthetic. They were sued for making that claim but they won. Technically a group III can now be called a synthetic by the marketing departments. A synthetic blend can be a mix of a group II and group III. This way they charge almost as much as a full synthetic while other companies market a good group III as a dino oil and charge half the price. In short, a "blend" is nothing more than good (or bad) marketing.

Amsoil, some M1, Schaffers, and Redline offer true synthetics. Redline is mostly a group IV ester while Amsoil (depending on which one) is a mix of a PAO (IV) and esters.

avs007

A little off.....

Mobil sued Castrol which was selling hydro-cracked Group-III oils as synthetic. Mobil lost the law suit, so now mobil stopped selling Group-IV oils and is now selling hydrocracked Group-III.

Now as far as calling Hydrocracked oils synthetic or not.... Thnk of it this way.... You can produce hydrogen by doing electrolysis on plain water, and break it down into H2 and 02... Think of this as Group-IV.

However you can also produce Hydrogen by steam-cracking Natural Gas to create H2 and carbon monoxide. In this case, the end result H2 is not the same as Natural Gas. This process is cheaper than electrolysis. In fact stream-cracking and hydro-cracking are very similar processes using different catalysts. Both serve to alter the molecular structure of a substance, which means the end result is not the same as the starting substance.

I believe this is part of the rationale for calling a hydrocracked Group-III synthetic, becuase the final product contains structures not found in crude oil (Which I think is what the SAE's definition of synthetic is, but I can't remember)

Now some people will argue that Group-III hydrocracked is derived from crude oil so it's not synthetic... Those people are using fuzzy logic because PAO Group IV base stocks are chemically derived from Ethylene gas, which itself is made by steam-cracking dino-oil.

Whether or not you want to call Mobil-1 a "true" synthetic or not is personal opinion, but either way, it's still a pretty good oil, which I think at the end of the day is what's important.

And for the record, German Castrol 0w-30 is a Group-IV synthetic, so Amsoil is not the only one.

Edit: Also, Synthetic Blends are still different, in that the definition of a Synthetic Blend is a Group-II base stock mixed with a maximum of 30% Group-III hydro-cracked or Group-IV PAO. But yes, don't bother with blends... Might as well just use a straight Group-III or Group-IV. From what I remember, most "blends" contain only 10%-20% "synthetic" base stock.

I hate cars

Ahh, I got the who sued who wrong...

Your definition reinforces my opinion that "blends" are a rip off. You can buy a quality group III labeled as a regular dino for much less than a blend that may potentially have less group III than the "regular" oil.