Baking headlights
Baking headlights
Well Ive done plenty of research and I have all the necessary parts and equipment except the material to reseal them, so I am finally going to install my halos and zkw replica lens tomorrow. I have read a few of the DIY but im wondering if anyone has any tips from personal experience like be careful of a certain clip thats prone to breaking or anything like that. Also does anyone know the part number for the epoxy Nissan uses to seal their headlights or something similar that will work.
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Kansas City, MO (Overland Park, KS)
Vahn, when I did mine with Buda, it was pretty straight forward. 200 degrees for 20 minutes each. Handle them with cooking gloves-they'll be warm. Just pull the clear front lens from the headlight housing. We got epoxy from an Auto Parts store. I don't remember Buda saying anything about any portions breaking or anything.
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have you ck'd the garage section for the diy?
if no pics and tips there, gen2 will have it, look on main thread list and `diy list` is 3rd down or so- click it and all the sections are organized- look in lighting
mainly its warm the oven and turn it off- expect aluminum foil to be used as a tent to expand size of oven when housings dont fit inside~
more than 200 degrees will melt the plastic mounting tabs beyond use (Im gen2, things may differ slightly)
call nissan dealer for the sealant if thats why your diy calls for
if no pics and tips there, gen2 will have it, look on main thread list and `diy list` is 3rd down or so- click it and all the sections are organized- look in lighting
mainly its warm the oven and turn it off- expect aluminum foil to be used as a tent to expand size of oven when housings dont fit inside~
more than 200 degrees will melt the plastic mounting tabs beyond use (Im gen2, things may differ slightly)
call nissan dealer for the sealant if thats why your diy calls for
Use the SEARCH feature. Use "Nissan Butyl Rubber" as your search term. You'll find the part number.
I wouldn't use or recommend anything else. This stuff is MADE to reseal headlights and tail lights and works great.
Tip: Replace the dessicant packs. Either new or re-use the old ones; I'd prefer new if possible.
I just had this same question. Read this thread and the links to get the butyl rubber are there thanks to Bearcat. Mine just came in the mail today.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/butyl-rubber-tape-769843/
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/butyl-rubber-tape-769843/
Good luck with the heat gun. Baking them is easiest. Mine took 10 mins each and pull right apart. The worst part is getting rid of as much of the old sealant as possible so you get a good clean seal that wont leak.You can put the hole housing in there. I removed my balasts so they wouldn't get any damage since they are a little old I wanted to be safe. Ill be taking my headlights apart again soon to redo them cause Im not happy with the all blacked out look
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Good luck with the heat gun. Baking them is easiest. Mine took 10 mins each and pull right apart. The worst part is getting rid of as much of the old sealant as possible so you get a good clean seal that wont leak.You can put the hole housing in there. I removed my balasts so they wouldn't get any damage since they are a little old I wanted to be safe. Ill be taking my headlights apart again soon to redo them cause Im not happy with the all blacked out look
get some clamps too... to help re-seal. and greets to my fellow ex-RSX'r above me!
see link below:
http://megatron01.tripod.com/index_files/Page338.htm
see link below:
http://megatron01.tripod.com/index_files/Page338.htm
a heat gun works great, ive used it to open up three sets of headlights. just aim the heat gun right along the sealed edge the black part not the clear lens side. start on the hid/fog side of the light, heat evenly and just pull apart. should only take you like 10 min. a flathead screw diver for those tab around it work great.
do not remove any of the butyl sealant!!!! it's all still there and is still good. after you clear or do what ever you want to the headlight it can be reused. just put it back together and used the same method with the heat gun. heat the outer sealed edge. the heat will heat up the sealant, then just squeeze them back together. then use some Permatex black adhesive silicon item # 81158 along the edge for a water tight seal. worked great for me.
do not remove any of the butyl sealant!!!! it's all still there and is still good. after you clear or do what ever you want to the headlight it can be reused. just put it back together and used the same method with the heat gun. heat the outer sealed edge. the heat will heat up the sealant, then just squeeze them back together. then use some Permatex black adhesive silicon item # 81158 along the edge for a water tight seal. worked great for me.
from experience it seems that headlights are never the same again and almost always leak at some point leaving fog and or some kind of filmy residue inside the headlights. this is coming from a guy who DIY JDM headlights on my old RSX. def. not touching my stock TL lights...haha.
Even pure stock OE lights can fog from time-to-time, thats why they have dessicant packs in them from the factory.
Good point on making sure the inside of the lenses/covers are perfectly clean and CRYSTAL clear before replacing.
200 degrees doesnt sound hot enough. You want to pull them apart by hand, and do not use a screwdriver because it will make marks on the plastic. I did them on my IS and I will never do it again. You can get new sealant at the auto parts store, I picked up a clear tube.
If the comprehensive DIY's on this site, say 200 degrees for xx minutes, then that IS what works.
Dozens, if not hundreds, have done it and it works.
Well thanks for all the tips this was exactly what I was looking for, everyones insight when they did it. I didn't get around to starting it today but I did procure my paint and sealant, So next Tuesday ill definitely be doing this, and I will post pictures.
I've had pretty good luck with heat guns too because I personally feel they give you more control as to where the heat is directed. When I did my headlights, I was afraid to keep it in the oven for so long so I kept it in there for about 10 mins and used a heatgun for the rest of the way. Be careful with that heat gun though because I messed up one of my lens by keeping a heat gun to one area for too long
. Good luck on your DIY.
. Good luck on your DIY.
ok so I am doing this soon too and I wanna know what the correct time for baking them is. Steven Bell says 200 degrees for 20 min and another member says 10 min???
Which is it? I am scared that the lights might get damaged from baking them too long.
And this is 200 degrees F or C because that's a HUGE difference
Which is it? I am scared that the lights might get damaged from baking them too long.
And this is 200 degrees F or C because that's a HUGE difference
yea I thought it was F, just had to make sure. And yea I was thinking of doing that, 10-15min then if i can't pull them appart, just use the heat gun on the areas where it's hard to take appart.
i did mine a few weeks ago, actually twice, first i cleared them, didn't like it so i reopened and blacked them out, i did 220 degrees both headlights for 15-17 minutes each, i just did trial and error, at first i did 10 minutes but it wasnt quite hot enough, so i left them for another 5 minutes, and they opened fine. keep in mind it takes a bit of pulling to get them apart, but you wont break it so be patient and take your time. put them on a damp towel, and keep in mind ovens arent all the same, DO NOT preheat, put the headlight in the oven and set the temp, some people let the oven cool completely before opening the second headlight, i just turned the oven off, opened one headlight and by the time i was done taking it apart the oven had cooled enough to start the second.
huge paragraph but i hope it helps
huge paragraph but i hope it helps
Bonki' Ehrite!
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,307
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From: Boca Raton Fl, Mooresville NC
Heres the DIY I did for the second gen side....I prefer the heat gun method over the oven. Its more tedious, but at the same time I feel like I have control of the heat being applied.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...=757845&page=2
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...=757845&page=2
G-046: DIY: Clearing Headlight
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=103174
https://acurazine.com/forums/audio-video-electronics-navigation-22/remote-start-111317/
https://acurazine.com/forums/car-parts-sale-361/sale-3-original-cl-s-tires-dc-area-113031/
https://acurazine.com/forums/ramblings-12/outkast-album-year-2003-a-130132/
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=137629
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=103174
https://acurazine.com/forums/audio-video-electronics-navigation-22/remote-start-111317/
https://acurazine.com/forums/car-parts-sale-361/sale-3-original-cl-s-tires-dc-area-113031/
https://acurazine.com/forums/ramblings-12/outkast-album-year-2003-a-130132/
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=137629
But to answer your question: Yes, you should scuff with a 3M pad and some people even prime them first. Someone on here posted a link to a movie for halo installation. They also briefly explained painting the housing too. Just keep looking.
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