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I need to replace my axles because of clicking issues when turning slowly. I found the parts online. But I am confused about an additional part I found on the same page.
For those that have had their axles repalced, is this pretty doable to replace as a DIY or should I go have an experienced mechanic do this? Any input is appreciated. Thanks.
Year/Model/Trans
First the L/S runs from trans to hub while the R/S hub to center support. Don't try and remove the R/S from the trans. Number 18 in the diagram runs from trans to center support and that stays in place and the R/S is removed from the center support.
Many places to purchase half shafts: Raxles, America's premier supplier of OE quality CV Axles and CV joints - Raxles Inc. have a good reputation although I've never used them.
Try RockAuto or even the local parts store.
I did this on my 07 Accord V6, pretty much the same as TL. I replaced the driver side with ease, but the passenger side female coupler would not come off the intermediate shaft no matter how hard I pried. I ended up going to Honda to get the passenger side replaced. You will need new axle nuts after you unstake the existing ones.
I did this on my 07 Accord V6, pretty much the same as TL. I replaced the driver side with ease, but the passenger side female coupler would not come off the intermediate shaft no matter how hard I pried. I ended up going to Honda to get the passenger side replaced. You will need new axle nuts after you unstake the existing ones.
From everything I've seen, the only aftermarket axles that are worth a hoot are Raxles - still about $450 - 500 per set I think, but lifetime guarantee and more than one person here has had them fix issues that they didn't even think were associated with an axle.
You should only get OEM axles. I don't know how many times I've heard people putting on re-grinds only to end up with worse vibration and out of balance issues. I spent $1000 on an OEM set after 200k miles, I think it's well worth it to have a peace of mind.
You should only get OEM axles. I don't know how many times I've heard people putting on re-grinds only to end up with worse vibration and out of balance issues. I spent $1000 on an OEM set after 200k miles, I think it's well worth it to have a peace of mind.
Sorry, but must say that spending $1000 on axles is certainly a bit much considering the car is worth @ $5000.
Anyone keeping the '07-'08 and want OEM axles, better buy the axles now as they are only $156 each, until they need to be replenished, then the price skyrockets.
And where are you getting OEM axles for $156 each? The passenger and driver side are of different prices because the passenger side connects to an intermediate shaft. If you are agonizing over the OEM prices of things, then perhaps you shouldn't drive an Acura.
Year/Model/Trans
First the L/S runs from trans to hub while the R/S hub to center support. Don't try and remove the R/S from the trans. Number 18 in the diagram runs from trans to center support and that stays in place and the R/S is removed from the center support.
Many places to purchase half shafts: Raxles, America's premier supplier of OE quality CV Axles and CV joints - Raxles Inc. have a good reputation although I've never used them.
Try RockAuto or even the local parts store.
So I don't need Number 18, correct? Just Left and Right shafts?
And where are you getting OEM axles for $156 each? The passenger and driver side are of different prices because the passenger side connects to an intermediate shaft. If you are agonizing over the OEM prices of things, then perhaps you shouldn't drive an Acura.
I don't see why you think he's "agonizing" over the price of OEM parts, more over the fact you spent $1K on a $5K car when the parts can be had for half the price.
And my 07 Accord V6 is only worth $4000? Getting a set of axles for $1000 to put on a very reliable car is still cheaper than getting a new used car with lower mileage, plus I already know how to work on everything on the car.
And where are you getting OEM axles for $156 each? The passenger and driver side are of different prices because the passenger side connects to an intermediate shaft. If you are agonizing over the OEM prices of things, then perhaps you shouldn't drive an Acura.
'07-'08 axles.
The '04-'06 were that price at one time before they had to produce more and the price quadrupled.
I'm not agonizing over the price of parts, just saying it's more than a little foolish to purchase half-shafts at $1000, or 20% of the car's value when there are other alternatives.
Also, the OEM axles go bad or you wouldn't have needed replacements, so whats wrong with aftermarket axles that come with a lifetime warranty where you'll never need to spend more money?
Originally Posted by t-rd
And my 07 Accord V6 is only worth $4000? Getting a set of axles for $1000 to put on a very reliable car is still cheaper than getting a new used car with lower mileage, plus I already know how to work on everything on the car.
Why in the world would you even consider replacing a vehicle just because the axles are gone?
You could have bought both for @ $100 and been just as happy and have $900 in you pocket.
Last edited by Turbonut; Jun 11, 2015 at 11:58 AM.
You could have bought both for @ $100 and been just as happy and have $900 in you pocket.
Like I said, those are re-grinds, that's why they are so cheap. Be prepared to change them out again after between 10000 to 40000 miles. I've heard even shorter intervals and immediate vibrations/out of balance problems.
Like I said, those are re-grinds, that's why they are so cheap. Be prepared to change them out again after between 10000 to 40000 miles. I've heard even shorter intervals and immediate vibrations/out of balance problems.
Regrinds??? There's no regrinds with rebuilt half-shafts. The joint(s) goes south, split the axle, replace joints and boots, assemble the axle, install. In fact, I try and catch a torn boot early, before the joint gets contaminated, split everything, relube, new boots and both done for $25.
Been around a long time and just trying to give a little education, especially in this day and age when extra money, for some, is hard to come by, but if spending that amount of money fillfulls you're wishes, so be it.
Last edited by Turbonut; Jun 12, 2015 at 03:59 PM.
just replaced my axle finally. Had to get extra tools. Thor's hammer and the ball joint separator tool.
here is the axle comparison. I am not sure if my old axle were oem or not since it didn't have the rubber dampener, but 90% of the vibration is now gone.
if you have an auto should check out raxles, a lot of the aftermarket stuff for axles for the auto TL are junk, there are a few horror stories in the problems & fixes where the replacement axle wasn't even the same length
for the one that mates to the intermediate shaft a prybar like this will make it easy:
Some people do the axle seals with the axles, to get to the passenger side axle seal you'd have to pull the intermediate shaft though.
Basically the driver's side axle goes right into the trans, the passenger axle mates to the intermediate shaft and then the intermediate shaft goes into the other end of the differential in the trans.
That's actually the intermediate shaft, I replaced it when I did the axles I think I still have it laying around in a box somewhere. It was $200, if you were ever going to put in HFPCs, PCDs or do the motor mounts if you decide to do the intermediate shaft that'd be the perfect time to do it.
You'd be surprised at just how much room opens up on the bottom when the intermediate shaft comes out, the rear cat slides out with such ease from the bottom with the int shaft out and the rear motor mount would be easy to get onto as well.
The passenger side was a bitch to get out just because you couldn't really pry it out. I had to use a long rod and just push it out. This is for the MT guys. It could be different from the At.
R-axles are great but at 299 a side (without core?) its not really worth it unless your making over 400WHP. OEM would be the better choice there.
I just went with the autozone new one, not refurbs because I got them for ~100 bucks for both sides. The car is getting old and I don't really care anymore.
