AC Compressor Clutch Went Out. How much oil should be in new compressor?
#1
AC Compressor Clutch Went Out. How much oil should be in new compressor?
The AC compressor clutch on my 06 isn't engaging. Checked the fuse and relay. Also shorted the connection and it still wouldn't engage. Checked that the wire at the clutch side was getting power.
So appears the clutch went out instead of the compressor blowing out, but I'm replacing the whole thing anyway. Also will put in a new drier.
The new Denso compressor I ordered is pre-filled with 5.5 Oz of PAG 46 oil. The 3rd gen TLs require 7 Oz of oil in the system.
Should I pour 1.5 Oz more into the compressor before installing it? Or is there still 1.5 Oz still in the lines/other components?
So appears the clutch went out instead of the compressor blowing out, but I'm replacing the whole thing anyway. Also will put in a new drier.
The new Denso compressor I ordered is pre-filled with 5.5 Oz of PAG 46 oil. The 3rd gen TLs require 7 Oz of oil in the system.
Should I pour 1.5 Oz more into the compressor before installing it? Or is there still 1.5 Oz still in the lines/other components?
#2
Ha, my A/C took a shiit last week too, as I was almost home. But I immediately jumped the gun and bought an A/C manifold gage kit, without even checking the fuses/relays.
But I do know my clutch is engaging.
According to the manual, you'll need to DRAIN some from the new compressor.
Where'd you see the system takes 7oz of oil?
But I do know my clutch is engaging.
According to the manual, you'll need to DRAIN some from the new compressor.
Where'd you see the system takes 7oz of oil?
#3
Ha, my A/C took a shiit last week too, as I was almost home. But I immediately jumped the gun and bought an A/C manifold gage kit, without even checking the fuses/relays.
But I do know my clutch is engaging.
According to the manual, you'll need to DRAIN some from the new compressor.
Where'd you see the system takes 7oz of oil?
But I do know my clutch is engaging.
According to the manual, you'll need to DRAIN some from the new compressor.
Where'd you see the system takes 7oz of oil?
For instance, the one I bought has 5.5 Oz prefilled. If I drain 4 Oz out of the old one, 4 - 4 = 0, I would remove 0 from the new one, which may be overfilled to begin with, but I don't know.
This also assumes the current system isn't under or overfilled already.
#4
Senior Moderator
If you put in too much oil, the system will lag when first turned on. It will be cold at first and gradually get cooler until the system is in the right zone.
I ran into this issue on my 13TL...after about 15 minutes the A/C would get ice cold or 10 mins if driving onto the highway. Tech drained some oil and it's been beautiful since.
I ran into this issue on my 13TL...after about 15 minutes the A/C would get ice cold or 10 mins if driving onto the highway. Tech drained some oil and it's been beautiful since.
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Acura TL Builder (07-18-2023)
#5
I swapped out the ac compressor and drier tube. Had to pull the radiator to get to it. Was a lot of work, but beats paying $1500+ for a shop to swap it.
I hooked my gauges up, pulled a vacuum, no leaks overnight, charged it with refrigerant, and it's blowing nice an cool.
Then when I pop the gauge off the low side tap, the valve stem on it starts leaking.... However, screw on cap has an o-ring, so I put that on tight and will see if it eventually leaks out over time.
What was annoying is trying to measure out 18.5 Oz of R134a while swapping 12 Oz bottles on a scale with the hose dangling around. Don't feel like I got an accurate measurement in the end. But it's blowing 50F at the vent when it's 90F out.
If I have to refill it again due to the leaking valve stem, are there >20 Oz bottles available to buy somewhere?
I hooked my gauges up, pulled a vacuum, no leaks overnight, charged it with refrigerant, and it's blowing nice an cool.
Then when I pop the gauge off the low side tap, the valve stem on it starts leaking.... However, screw on cap has an o-ring, so I put that on tight and will see if it eventually leaks out over time.
What was annoying is trying to measure out 18.5 Oz of R134a while swapping 12 Oz bottles on a scale with the hose dangling around. Don't feel like I got an accurate measurement in the end. But it's blowing 50F at the vent when it's 90F out.
If I have to refill it again due to the leaking valve stem, are there >20 Oz bottles available to buy somewhere?
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twokexlv6coupe (07-21-2023)
#6
Senior Moderator
Get a schrader valve tool and replace the valve seals that are leaking. That o-ring won't hold back 30+ PSI of refrigerant.
most larger bottles of refrigerant that you can buy have stop leak in them which I would not recommend; get R134A only.
most larger bottles of refrigerant that you can buy have stop leak in them which I would not recommend; get R134A only.
#7
I swapped out the ac compressor and drier tube. Had to pull the radiator to get to it. Was a lot of work, but beats paying $1500+ for a shop to swap it.
I hooked my gauges up, pulled a vacuum, no leaks overnight, charged it with refrigerant, and it's blowing nice an cool.
Then when I pop the gauge off the low side tap, the valve stem on it starts leaking.... However, screw on cap has an o-ring, so I put that on tight and will see if it eventually leaks out over time.
What was annoying is trying to measure out 18.5 Oz of R134a while swapping 12 Oz bottles on a scale with the hose dangling around. Don't feel like I got an accurate measurement in the end. But it's blowing 50F at the vent when it's 90F out.
If I have to refill it again due to the leaking valve stem, are there >20 Oz bottles available to buy somewhere?
I hooked my gauges up, pulled a vacuum, no leaks overnight, charged it with refrigerant, and it's blowing nice an cool.
Then when I pop the gauge off the low side tap, the valve stem on it starts leaking.... However, screw on cap has an o-ring, so I put that on tight and will see if it eventually leaks out over time.
What was annoying is trying to measure out 18.5 Oz of R134a while swapping 12 Oz bottles on a scale with the hose dangling around. Don't feel like I got an accurate measurement in the end. But it's blowing 50F at the vent when it's 90F out.
If I have to refill it again due to the leaking valve stem, are there >20 Oz bottles available to buy somewhere?
I'm doing something similar right now. With my manifold gages I was showing ~105psi on BOTH the low and high pressure side, all the time. Following the FSM I ohm'ed out my clutch field coil, 4.8 ohms (spec is 3.9 - 4.3 at 68* F) and I did it while it was 85-90*F. Suspicious sounding, so that was the 1st thing I purchased, before even taking anything apart. Received it on tuesday, went to disassemble everything....
And the clutch pulley face-plate decided to split into two pieces.
I figured I could buy just the face-plate by itself (save some $$) but noooooo it comes with an entire new pulley. New pulley arrives tomorrow.
As I was working on her last night, noticed the coolant was low. Five (16oz) water bottles later and I see it's leaking out the side of the radiator. FMLL
Found a brand new Koyo on amazon, it's arriving in 5-7 days
It's always something
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#8
AZ Community Team
I swapped out the ac compressor and drier tube. Had to pull the radiator to get to it. Was a lot of work, but beats paying $1500+ for a shop to swap it.
I hooked my gauges up, pulled a vacuum, no leaks overnight, charged it with refrigerant, and it's blowing nice an cool.
Then when I pop the gauge off the low side tap, the valve stem on it starts leaking.... However, screw on cap has an o-ring, so I put that on tight and will see if it eventually leaks out over time.
What was annoying is trying to measure out 18.5 Oz of R134a while swapping 12 Oz bottles on a scale with the hose dangling around. Don't feel like I got an accurate measurement in the end. But it's blowing 50F at the vent when it's 90F out.
If I have to refill it again due to the leaking valve stem, are there >20 Oz bottles available to buy somewhere?
I hooked my gauges up, pulled a vacuum, no leaks overnight, charged it with refrigerant, and it's blowing nice an cool.
Then when I pop the gauge off the low side tap, the valve stem on it starts leaking.... However, screw on cap has an o-ring, so I put that on tight and will see if it eventually leaks out over time.
What was annoying is trying to measure out 18.5 Oz of R134a while swapping 12 Oz bottles on a scale with the hose dangling around. Don't feel like I got an accurate measurement in the end. But it's blowing 50F at the vent when it's 90F out.
If I have to refill it again due to the leaking valve stem, are there >20 Oz bottles available to buy somewhere?
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thoiboi (07-27-2023)
#9
You guys did pull a vacuum for ~15 minutes before refilling refrigerant, right? It should go lower than 55F. Otherwise method with the scale is pretty much as professional as you can without the >$3k machine.
I have a 3 way adapter and valve so I can pull vacuum on the hose going to the can (so I can connect both the can and vacuum pump at the same, but the extra valve is to turn off flow to the pump if I open up the can).
If you don't want to buy that, open the can and loosen the hose so refrigerant pushes out any air in the hose before recharging the car.
(some gauge sets have the Schrader valve on them for this exact purpose)
Basically you don't want any air or moisture in the system.
I have a 3 way adapter and valve so I can pull vacuum on the hose going to the can (so I can connect both the can and vacuum pump at the same, but the extra valve is to turn off flow to the pump if I open up the can).
If you don't want to buy that, open the can and loosen the hose so refrigerant pushes out any air in the hose before recharging the car.
(some gauge sets have the Schrader valve on them for this exact purpose)
Basically you don't want any air or moisture in the system.
#10
AZ Community Team
Pulled a vacuum for 4 hours with HF vacuum pump. I think the reason for my 55oF is I probably have too much oil in the system (long story to why that is). At the moment I don't wanna mess with it as it cools well
#11
Senior Moderator
let the system run for about 15-20 mins and see if it gets colder. If yes, the oil has moved around the system and it is overfilled. I had the same issue on my 4G TL. Tech drained some out and I was good to go.
#12
AZ Community Team
#13
Ac compressor locked engine would'nt start
so I was able to start it by turning ac off , it was making a terrible noise and it was locked, I though my 220k miles engine had died!! I took off the fuse that engages the clutch so I wont accidentally turn it on , the question is , should I drive it like that? untill I have $$$ for the replacement , will it affect anything else? thanks in advance!!
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