Did it early this morning, and all I can say is WOW!!!

All the positive comments in the other thread 6MT Gear Lube are entirely on the money! The difference in shifting smoothness is like night and day compared to using the original Honda MTF that the car came with. Only 7600 miles, and the old fluid looked like un-stirred metallic paint in the catch pan. In fact, it almost feels like I'm driving a different car altogether.

I find this to be as much of an improvement in shifting as replacing the rear sway bar on the 5AT's gives in cornering. Even the guys who park the car in my building's garage are asking me what I did as they themselves feel a difference. One noticed the shifing improvement and one asked what I did to the car as he thought it all of a sudden had more power. One could easily get that impression now as it seems to go into gear much easier as you release the clutch pedal.



Not all GM dealers carry this in stock, so you'll have to call around.

As for you New Yawkiz out there, the only Chevy dealer in NYC that had it in stock was HB Chevrolet in Forest Hills, Queens. Coincidentally, the guy behind the parts counter claimed to have a son with a Volkswagen with a manual tranny who put in this fluid in and is raving at the performance difference he's experiencing. The independent repair shop I've been doing business with for years (who also did my Comptech rear sway bar), will do the labor for $50 if you bring them the fluid:

Eastside Automotive
East 127th St between 2nd & 3rd - Manhattan
212-570-2002......Ask for Junior
Tell 'em "T" sent ya!

IF YOU HAVE A 6MT AND YOU HAVEN'T DONE THIS YET, DON'T WAIT ANOTHER DAY !
CLEARLY, ONE OF THOSE ULTIMATE BANGS FOR THE BUCK!
.
.

 

How much per bottle? And how many bottles does it take?

 

The Chevy dealer I went to charged $11 and change per qt. You need about 2¼ qts, so you have to buy 3. Save the extra so you only have to buy two next time around.

Make sure the words Friction Modified are on the label, or better yet, print the picture above and take it to the dealer with you as they might bitch about you're giving them the GM part#.

 

Are you sure about putting a GM fluid in a Honda car is a good idea. I've always heard that Honda's fluids are specially designed for Honda's parts etc?

 

that's BS, just to make more money.

 

Except when it comes to power steering fluid.

Go to your local auto supply store like Strauss, AutoZone, Pep Boys, etc. and see what types of Power steering flid they have. You'll find 2 types: 1) generic, and 2) one marked FOR HONDA VEHICLES.

 

I was browsing a couple NSX Forums and they recommend this stuff too. I called my local Chevy Dealer...right next to the Acura dealer where I bought my TL and asked if they have any in stock. They were confused why I was buying this for my TL. I told them..."Don't worry about it"

 

thanks DMZ gonna get this done this weekend. was gonna look for a place to get it changed other than the dealer cause it's always over-priced. but i'll give your place a try.

 

Refer to this thread and your questions about MT fluid will be answered. And here's one more from Michael Wan about 6MT Fluid.

 

I would hope so. My dealer charges less than this for an oil change (including the oil) that takes more oil, a filter (part of the charge) and longer to do. Places that charge more to change the transmission fluid are fleecing the unsuspecting.

If you can change your oil, you can do this yourself in 15 minutes.... including putting the car on the stands. Better yet, do both at the same time. You need a floor jack and stands, a bucket for the oil, a 3/8 drive ratchet to remove the drain plug on the bottom left side of the tranny (the ratchet end actually goes into the plug, can't miss it), a 17mm socket (or is it 19?) with ratchet and extension for the fill hole on the top left edge of the differential section, and a funnel with an 18" long piece of garden hose on it to reach the fill hole. Put the hose in the fill hole, pour the oil in the funnel, (put the lower plug back in first) and then put in the top fill hole plug. You don't even have to reach around the hot exhaust like changing your oil.

As an aside, I haven't tried GM Synchromesh, but I have had great results with Redline synthetic MTL, which reduces shear wear and also has a friction modifier that increases the effectiveness of the synchronizers and makes for a smoother shift.

 

come to think of it, maybe it did take a wobble drive extension and removal of some plastic bits...best to do this if you have all the extra tools and are confident under the hood...

 

Acura is actually replacing my 3rd gear because of the way it was shifting. Guess if that doesn't work i'll try the syncromesh stuff.

 

I have an '04 6mt.

I just bought the fluid, just waiting to get an appointment at the shop to get it changed.

I've decided to go with AMSOIL MTF Synchromesh 5w-30. I'm sorry I'm an idiot and don't know how to post pictures.

Here's the link tho:
https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/mtf.aspx

I'm glad people are having great success with the GM synchromesh stuff. But for the other folks that are leary of putting in a GM product into their cars, I will give my road test on my experience with AMSOIL once it is in. I paid $7.70 / qt. I trust AMSOIL, I have it in my '05 R1.

ohh...AMSOIL's MTF is a Honda replacement fluid.

until then,
miiipilot

 

Just did this mod with the GM oil on my 05 TL 6MT, GREAT MOD, FEELS LIKE A BRAND NEW TL, BETTER THAN NEW, THIS IS THE WAY THE CAR SHOULD COME FROM THE FACTORY, SMOOTH SHIFTING, ONE OF THE BEST MOD I EVER DONE TO MY TL, HIGHLYRECOMMENDED : thumbsup:

 

I'm looking for some advice here. I've read this thread, along with the other 2 threads. I am currently at 1000 miles. I would like to do this mod, because I can feel the clunky shift in my stick, and I believe this mod will help smoothin that.

What do you think is the earliest (miles) wise, I can do this mod? Mr Wan suggested doing it at 5000 miles. I would like to do it as soon as possible.

Thanks!

 

from a lot of Prelude owners and the service manager at my dealership I have heard not to use the GMS. It has been proven on the preludes and by my service manager that the GMS will actually deteriorate the seals and cause leaks.

Just my though so take it as you may.

 

Has anyone ever figured out the one big thing about doing this mod... the warranty? What happens to the warranty.... say your tranny craps out and they take it apart and find the wrong fluid... then what? Anyone ever figured out the solution to this problem?

 

So many have done this for so many miles without problems. If however my tranny were to crap out, Id have my local independent repair shop replace the fluid with Honda MTF then get the car to the dealer.

 

For all u guys that dont know GM syncromesh is the shyt, alot people use it in the dc, eg, da, prelude, accord, etc to stop grinding in their trannies. I've used it in my gsr before and my tranny doen't grind 3rd gear anymore.

 

My dealer is the one that did the oil swap, and acknowledged that there was a issue with the Honda fluid not working the way it should. Apparently there has been alot of problems with the 6 speed tranny. The S2000 guys have all done the same thing, I haven't looked back as it made a huge difference in the way the car shifted, so much smoother. As with all mods, if you don't feel comfortable with getting it done, then don't do it. But for those who want it to feel right, DO IT.

 

Could someone please give me some advice about how early I can do this swap? i currently have 1200 miles.

 

I changed mine out about 2 months after I got the car, 2400 miles.

You can do it any time you want to.

 

I just purchased mine, 3 quarts. I've stopped at 3 different shops and they dont know how to do the work on my acura. i'm gonna just take it to acura.

 

Have any PA owners in western PA, Pittsburgh area, done the GM synchromesh Transmission fluid, friction modified mod yet?

How and where did you do it?

I have purchased the stuff, I just can't find anyone who is willing to touch my 06 TL!!!!! Jiffy Lube said they don't want to try, cause they are afraid they will mess something up. An auto-repair chain said they won't do it, cause they dont have the books for the 2006 TL yet. My mechanic couldn't understand that i didn't want to FLUSH the transmission fluid, i simply wanted to drain it, and replace it.

So please, if you know someone in the pittsburgh area who does this , and knows what they are doing, please tell me!

 

Why don't you do it yourself?

 

did you do it yourself?

 

I changed mine at 12,152 miles back in November of last year and right now I'm close to 17k and my shiter is as smooth as the day I changed it, it was so easy to do that I may just do it once a year, can you say "no more forcing third gear or downshifting to second".....

 

clausda0, If you can change your engine oil you are capable of changing your 6MT oil. Do a search here and you'll find plenty of info about the transmission oil change. Here are some threads to get you going:


https://acurazine.com/forums/ramblings-12/valentines-day-haiku-93452/
https://acurazine.com/forums/car-talk-5/omg-audi-a4-1-8t-114948/
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=120619
https://acurazine.com/forums/ramblings-12/girls-gone-wild-pics-125763/

 

Honestly, it is the easiest, least messy, and quickest manual transmission fluid change on any car I've ever own.. and all but one have had manual transmissions.

One most all manual trannys, you have to fill from the site plug hole until it runs out. Not with this car. There is a separate fill hole on the top of the transmission.

So what you do is this.

o Drive the front of the car up on ramps on a driveway that is angled downward (you should be driving up on the ramps on the downward slope of the driveway).

o Remove the plastic shield which covers the bottom of the transmission.

o Place a floor jack under the rear center tail hook and using a level along an area under the transmission that is linear (straight) with car, raise the car in the rear until the level bubble is centered level. This shouldn't be very much and certainly not so much as to raise the rear tires off of the driveway surface. This is important to get a level car for this change since it affects the drain and fill.

o Remove the 4 small bolts which hold the top of the air filter housing as though you were replacing the air filter and just move the top of the housing out of the way a little (you don't need to remove it from the throttle body).

o Locate the fill hole at the top of the transmission. It is a fairly large bolt directly under the ribbed throttle body coupling, generally with a red magic marker "mark" on it and takes a 3/8" ratchet. Using a long extention and a 90 degree 3/8" swivel at the end, insert the end of the swivel into the bolt and remove it (it will be inserted hard, so some elbow grease is needed). DO NOT lose this bolt.

o Place a drain pan under the rear of the transmission and remove the drain plug.

o After draining out all of the oil that is going to come out, replace the plug with a new aluminum washer and torque to specs.. 29 ft/lbs.

o Pour 2.3 quarts of the new oil into the transmission or remove the site plug (which is above the drain plug) and pour in the new oil until it starts to run out of the site hole. Then install the fill bolt with a new washer and torque to 33 ft/lbs. If you removed the site plug, re-install it with a new washer and torque to 8.7 ft/lbs.

o Put the shield back on, lower the car and you're done.


If you've never done anything like this, it might initially sound like more than you are willing to take on. But really, it is a very simple and straight foward change out. The easiest and best I've ever done.

 

Ok guys, you got me geared up. I'm gonna do the change myself. Thanks for the awesome DIY and the links to the other DIY's. I really appreciate the advise guys.

I'll let you know how it goes.

 

One thing I found on the links that there were no pictures of the shield that covers the drain and overfill plugs and when you take it off remove the front bolts an just loosen the back one that way you can rotate it out of the way....without having to remove it entirely...

 

thanks!

 

Hey guys,
Just curious.

Since the MT has a fill hole from the top, has anyone tried using one of those suction based oil extraction tools? (Motive power extractor is th eone I have)

Seems you could just stick that little tube down in there and suck out the fluid while the car was on the ground and level...

I've also heard rave reviews of the GM synchromesh fluid being used in VW's.

 

Won't work. As soon as you remove the fill bolt, you'll see gear and synchro teeth immediately under the hole.

 

For those who cant find it at their local dealers heres an online option just type in the part number when trying to find it on the site.. about 9 bucks a bottle but shipping for 3 bottles is 9.95 http://www.gmpartscheap.com/

 

It is done! I had my mechanic do it, he charged me 40 bucks, not bad.

The car shifts between gears SOOOOO smoothly! I love it!

It makes me seem like a better manual driver then I actually am, because the shifts are so smooth.

Terrific upgrade.

 

I'm gonna get my tranny fluid changed tomorrow.

If you guys can't find it at your local dealer or shop, you can order from here:

http://www.extremepsi.com/store/cust...me.php?cat=306

They ship fast!

 

I live in Central PA, but I got my local Acura Dealer to change the fluid for me. They had no problem not using Honda Fluid, the master mechanic agreed the Honda fluid is crap, and wanted to drive my car after he changed the fluid just to see how it shifted. He was impressed, and so was I. There is no reason not to switch fluid. If your tranny suddenly dies, just replace the fluid with Honda fluid before you submit the warranty claim, nobody will know the difference. IMHO, the tranny is more likely to last longer with this stuff, it doesn't grind like it did with Honda MTF.

 

You can use this stuff on a automatic as well right?

 

I checked this site and the part number is different and it doesn't show the bottle with the "Friction Modified" label. The part number listed in other posts is 12377916. The part number they list is 12345349.