The 3G Ramblings & General Discussion Thread
:what:
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,461
Likes: 350
From: Hernando, MS
Had a rough day today. Bad weather in Memphis (iced over roads and I was stuck on the wrong side of the Mississippi River for awhile).
The car was listed at $9,400 which seemed an already decent deal. 130k miles. So 100k fewer miles than the red one I was looking at. I negotiated it down to $7,500 and got it.
Today the trans have me a few "issues" with torque converter lock up shudder. I'll be working on that tomorrow. I did a little research this evening. Female owned, last time it was at a dealer was at 84k miles in aug of 2010. So if the trans fluid has been kept up....who did it? Hoping to sneak away from work some tomorrow and do a 3x3 with some fresh dw-1 and 3-4 switches. Was gonna do it anyway. Now I just have added incentive. Cross your fingers for me.
The car was listed at $9,400 which seemed an already decent deal. 130k miles. So 100k fewer miles than the red one I was looking at. I negotiated it down to $7,500 and got it.
Today the trans have me a few "issues" with torque converter lock up shudder. I'll be working on that tomorrow. I did a little research this evening. Female owned, last time it was at a dealer was at 84k miles in aug of 2010. So if the trans fluid has been kept up....who did it? Hoping to sneak away from work some tomorrow and do a 3x3 with some fresh dw-1 and 3-4 switches. Was gonna do it anyway. Now I just have added incentive. Cross your fingers for me.
Chapter Leader (Midwest Region)
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 2,427
Likes: 784
From: Kansas City
takin care of Business in
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 30,994
Likes: 4,733
From: Kansas City, MO
^^^ I agree with Majofo...
what I would do is
drain the fluid
do the switches
replace with new fluid (I do recommend Redline but I havent heard anything bad about the DW1 either)
once you are done with this, do a drain and refill every 10K or 15K miles.... this way you are not draining out new fluid, and there will always be "fresh" or new fluid in the tranny....
while you are at it, also look into an external trans cooler....I am looking to install one when the weather gets better...
what I would do is
drain the fluid
do the switches
replace with new fluid (I do recommend Redline but I havent heard anything bad about the DW1 either)
once you are done with this, do a drain and refill every 10K or 15K miles.... this way you are not draining out new fluid, and there will always be "fresh" or new fluid in the tranny....
while you are at it, also look into an external trans cooler....I am looking to install one when the weather gets better...
takin care of Business in
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 30,994
Likes: 4,733
From: Kansas City, MO
^^^ I am running straight Type F just like IHC...am not sure IHC mixes DW1 and Type F....
Inaccurate who has done a lot of research on this mixes, 1 lightweight Racing, 1 D4 and 1 Type F....this gives like stock viscosity and 67% non Type F mixture since a lot of folks running straight Type F have reported flaring....
I have no had any flaring in 20K miles of running straight Type F....
also I had my drain and refill interval as 1000 miles....every 1000 miles i did a drain and refill and hence a total of 4x3....but if I had to do it all over again, I would have done a drain and refill every 15K miles....
Inaccurate who has done a lot of research on this mixes, 1 lightweight Racing, 1 D4 and 1 Type F....this gives like stock viscosity and 67% non Type F mixture since a lot of folks running straight Type F have reported flaring....
I have no had any flaring in 20K miles of running straight Type F....
also I had my drain and refill interval as 1000 miles....every 1000 miles i did a drain and refill and hence a total of 4x3....but if I had to do it all over again, I would have done a drain and refill every 15K miles....
:what:
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,461
Likes: 350
From: Hernando, MS
Why may I ask? They are all required to be compatible by ANSI standards are they not?
I'll be adding type f first fill since its cheaper to lower the FM % in the trans. Then I'll start adding DW-1. I have no idea what fluid is in this car as all services were done by quick lubes since 84,000 miles. 131k on the clock now. I want it all out whatever it is.
I'll be adding type f first fill since its cheaper to lower the FM % in the trans. Then I'll start adding DW-1. I have no idea what fluid is in this car as all services were done by quick lubes since 84,000 miles. 131k on the clock now. I want it all out whatever it is.
Chapter Leader (Midwest Region)
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 2,427
Likes: 784
From: Kansas City
So much different info, don't know what to do. I am needing this done soon along with the pressure switches. Maybe I just use the factory fluids Anil 
I know you and a lot of other people have had no trouble with redline, but I don't know if I want to chance it.
I know you and a lot of other people have had no trouble with redline, but I don't know if I want to chance it.
takin care of Business in
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 30,994
Likes: 4,733
From: Kansas City, MO
@Meko: dont do a 4x3 every 15K miles....you are wasting money....either a 4x3 every 60K miles or 1x3 every 15K miles...
@Matt: your tranny is still under warranty, i would not use any other fluid than the DW1
@Matt: your tranny is still under warranty, i would not use any other fluid than the DW1
I did 3x3 last time with 1k interval
Now will just do 1x3
To be honest mine started to do much better shifting after redline
3rd and sometimes 2nd was hittin if the rpm was low or at decelerating
not anymore
Now will just do 1x3
To be honest mine started to do much better shifting after redline
3rd and sometimes 2nd was hittin if the rpm was low or at decelerating
not anymore
Last edited by MEKO; Jan 15, 2013 at 11:33 AM.
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 88,888
Likes: 11,846
From: Waffles, BU
You have a high mileage TL Wacky.. she might not have ever changed the ATF. You might need the FM to keep it going.. be conservative. Change the switches, do a drain / fill of DW1 or D4. Don't do another drain and fill for 15-20k. Each oil has different characteristics at temp and pressure, a mix is not linear and will separate, over time this could do harm (which I hypothesize has done to some members who introduced a mix early on with no previous trans issues). The benefit of mixing is not there. You may end up doing more harm than a straight fluid. If you do mix.. don't mix Racing F.
takin care of Business in
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 30,994
Likes: 4,733
From: Kansas City, MO
^^^ I changed my ATF from Z1 to Type F at 147K miles....
thats why i chose a Drain and Refill interval of 1K miles so I could back out if I saw any problems....but there were none....
the only reason I recommend Type F is because of no FM's....that thing will shift quick and reduce wear....
now I introduced Type F in my car when DW1 was not out....hearing what some folks have to saw about Dw1, i bet you could use that and not have to worry about anything
thats why i chose a Drain and Refill interval of 1K miles so I could back out if I saw any problems....but there were none....
the only reason I recommend Type F is because of no FM's....that thing will shift quick and reduce wear....
now I introduced Type F in my car when DW1 was not out....hearing what some folks have to saw about Dw1, i bet you could use that and not have to worry about anything
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 88,888
Likes: 11,846
From: Waffles, BU
You fucking guys with your 1x3, 4x3, 2x3...
3x3 means 3 drains 3 fills.. are you doing 1 drain and 3 fills?
takin care of Business in
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 30,994
Likes: 4,733
From: Kansas City, MO
^^^ same thing....
there are 3 fluids from Redline for us...
1> Type F - also called as Racing F or racing fluid etc
2> Lightweight Racing fluid - also called as Lightweight Type F, lightweight fluid....this one is just like the Type F (NO FM's) but just a little bit thinner
3> D4
I would like someone to try the D6....
there are 3 fluids from Redline for us...
1> Type F - also called as Racing F or racing fluid etc
2> Lightweight Racing fluid - also called as Lightweight Type F, lightweight fluid....this one is just like the Type F (NO FM's) but just a little bit thinner
3> D4
I would like someone to try the D6....
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 88,888
Likes: 11,846
From: Waffles, BU
Racing is Type-F
You're running mostly a straight fluid though and you've kept up on trans maintenance, so you're a lot less likely to run into issues than a tranny with +80k miles of unchanged fluid.
^^^ I changed my ATF from Z1 to Type F at 147K miles....
thats why i chose a Drain and Refill interval of 1K miles so I could back out if I saw any problems....but there were none....
the only reason I recommend Type F is because of no FM's....that thing will shift quick and reduce wear....
now I introduced Type F in my car when DW1 was not out....hearing what some folks have to saw about Dw1, i bet you could use that and not have to worry about anything
thats why i chose a Drain and Refill interval of 1K miles so I could back out if I saw any problems....but there were none....
the only reason I recommend Type F is because of no FM's....that thing will shift quick and reduce wear....
now I introduced Type F in my car when DW1 was not out....hearing what some folks have to saw about Dw1, i bet you could use that and not have to worry about anything
takin care of Business in
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 30,994
Likes: 4,733
From: Kansas City, MO
you are mistaken my friend
1x3 mean you do a drain and refill which uses 3 qts of fluid, 1 time....
since in the AT most of the fluid is locked up in the torque converter, to change most of the fluid, you need to do a 4x3 which means do a 1x3, 4 times....which means do a drain and refill which uses 3 qts a total of 4 times, hence using 12qts of fluid
about warranty, I have seen dealerships fuck with people and their warranties because they have an air intake.....if Type F were to ruin his tranny, the dealership will definitely try to make as much $$$ from him as they can....
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 88,888
Likes: 11,846
From: Waffles, BU
^^^ same thing....
there are 3 fluids from Redline for us...
1> Type F - also called as Racing F or racing fluid etc
2> Lightweight Racing fluid - also called as Lightweight Type F, lightweight fluid....this one is just like the Type F (NO FM's) but just a little bit thinner
3> D4
I would like someone to try the D6....
there are 3 fluids from Redline for us...
1> Type F - also called as Racing F or racing fluid etc
2> Lightweight Racing fluid - also called as Lightweight Type F, lightweight fluid....this one is just like the Type F (NO FM's) but just a little bit thinner
3> D4
I would like someone to try the D6....
D6 is closer to DW1.
takin care of Business in
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 30,994
Likes: 4,733
From: Kansas City, MO
EDIT: this is for Majofo and not for you Dennis....
^^^ you are not reading
its the same as in it has NO FM's but its a little bit thinner....less viscosity....so the lightweight is thinner than the Type F
from Redlines website
^^^ you are not reading
its the same as in it has NO FM's but its a little bit thinner....less viscosity....so the lightweight is thinner than the Type F
from Redlines website
MORE TECHNICAL INFORMATION
RED LINE LIGHTWEIGHT RACING ATF is a fully-synthetic formula designed specifically for use in drag racing automatic transmissions that need the positive shift of a Type-F automatic transmission fluid, yet require ultimate consistency. This ATF contains no slipperiness additives, producing faster shifts and quicker lock-up and can reduce elapsed time in drag racing. Compared to RED LINE RACING ATF, this product maintains a comparably thin viscosity to minimize heat buildup and reduce changes in fluid thickness between rounds.
This product is designed for use where Type-F, Dexron, and Mercon fluids are recommended in both bracket and heads-up drag racing transmissions.
RED LINE LIGHTWEIGHT RACING ATF is a fully-synthetic formula designed specifically for use in drag racing automatic transmissions that need the positive shift of a Type-F automatic transmission fluid, yet require ultimate consistency. This ATF contains no slipperiness additives, producing faster shifts and quicker lock-up and can reduce elapsed time in drag racing. Compared to RED LINE RACING ATF, this product maintains a comparably thin viscosity to minimize heat buildup and reduce changes in fluid thickness between rounds.
This product is designed for use where Type-F, Dexron, and Mercon fluids are recommended in both bracket and heads-up drag racing transmissions.
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 88,888
Likes: 11,846
From: Waffles, BU
you are mistaken my friend
1x3 mean you do a drain and refill which uses 3 qts of fluid, 1 time....
since in the AT most of the fluid is locked up in the torque converter, to change most of the fluid, you need to do a 4x3 which means do a 1x3, 4 times....which means do a drain and refill which uses 3 qts a total of 4 times, hence using 12qts of fluid
about warranty, I have seen dealerships fuck with people and their warranties because they have an air intake.....if Type F were to ruin his tranny, the dealership will definitely try to make as much $$$ from him as they can....
And how the fuck would the dealer know he was on F?
Are you seriously lecture me about the mechanics of our transmission..
Since the RR journals, 3x3 refers to 3 drains and fills, not 3 drains and fills of 3 qts. The TC doesn't drop exactly 3 qts (although almost negligible), so Honda would only advise refilling to the appropriate level.
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 88,888
Likes: 11,846
From: Waffles, BU
That's like saying Mobil 1 0w-60 is the same as Mobil 1 SAE 30.
:what:
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,461
Likes: 350
From: Hernando, MS
This. Unless you are retarded enough to walk in and start saying "I poured milk in my transmission in hopes my car would moo" I think you are fine. No dealership is going to spend the money on the analysis it would take to prove what fluids or combination of fluids are in it. As a person who orders analysis on different chemicals and fluids on a daily basis I can say, such analysis would cost a lot of money.
takin care of Business in
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 30,994
Likes: 4,733
From: Kansas City, MO
EDIT:
again @ Majofo
^^^ dude am not here to argue semantics with you
but the honda AT drops right around 2.8-2.9 qts per drain..am not sure what a Mercedes Benz AT drains, for that you need to be on that forum
a 3x3 basically means:
3(times)x3(qts)
no one will tell you, dude let it drain 4 qts and fill in on 10ounces....filling any fluid using the dip stick is the way to do...that is common sense....but am just explaining what a 3x3 or a 4x3 or a 1x3 means !!!
about warranty, I would think they test the fluid to find the root cause rather than telling someone, why dont you have a seat while we switch that transmissions for you....someone with experience around this will explain better....
bottom line is we are trying to advise the same thing:
regular maintenance
Wacker, you will be fine with either fluids (DW1 or Redline)....but from my PERSONAL experience from switching from Z1 to Type F, I have been very happy....the shifts are quicker, I do not see as many shavings on the drain bolt magnet....
the only regret I have is doing a 1x3 every 1000 miles, and went up to a 4x3....I should have done a 1x3 every other oil change....
send IHC a PM....I wish inaccurate was still frequenting the forums but here is his thread:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...5#post14240025
again @ Majofo
^^^ dude am not here to argue semantics with you
but the honda AT drops right around 2.8-2.9 qts per drain..am not sure what a Mercedes Benz AT drains, for that you need to be on that forum
a 3x3 basically means:
3(times)x3(qts)
no one will tell you, dude let it drain 4 qts and fill in on 10ounces....filling any fluid using the dip stick is the way to do...that is common sense....but am just explaining what a 3x3 or a 4x3 or a 1x3 means !!!
about warranty, I would think they test the fluid to find the root cause rather than telling someone, why dont you have a seat while we switch that transmissions for you....someone with experience around this will explain better....
bottom line is we are trying to advise the same thing:
regular maintenance
Wacker, you will be fine with either fluids (DW1 or Redline)....but from my PERSONAL experience from switching from Z1 to Type F, I have been very happy....the shifts are quicker, I do not see as many shavings on the drain bolt magnet....
the only regret I have is doing a 1x3 every 1000 miles, and went up to a 4x3....I should have done a 1x3 every other oil change....
send IHC a PM....I wish inaccurate was still frequenting the forums but here is his thread:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...5#post14240025
Last edited by swoosh; Jan 15, 2013 at 12:34 PM.
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 88,888
Likes: 11,846
From: Waffles, BU
reg maint indeed.Wacky is a special case
...without knowing the history of the trans.. he's better off to assume it was never serviced. So going to a straight Type-F (no FM) fluid is risky. I'm not saying F is bad (although Racing F is linked to a couple bricked trans here, again back to visc). I do think keeping a weighted mix is risky.
