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Mine does it regardless of whether it "warms up" or not. I'm seriously considering reaching out to a lemon law attorney if they pull the same BS this time around.
I heard the same from dealer as Dereileak did, they don't have any update yet, I was asked to come back if the problem persists when replacing engine oil, now it's ~ 3000 on it. I even contacted the Headquarter, and they said they are taking this seriously as they acknowledge harsh shifting between 2 and 3. In my case, it becomes smooth when it gets warmed up. Let us know if you get any luck with your lemon law. It might be better to contact a lawyer specialized in class action in automobile area.
I am a new owner (1100 miles) and have the harsh shifting, delay, whatever you want to call it 'problem', 'annoyance' also. Love the car, hate the problem.
I was almost freakin killed the other day because the tranny took a second or so to decide to 'go' as i was taking a left across busy oncoming traffic, as many people complain about above.
But I did figure out that if i tug one of the paddles just as I accelerate, the problem is not a problem.
try it,. It does not 'solve' it, it just lets you take the left, right, whatever, without the delay.
so, get in the left lane, wheels straight of course, blinker on. traffic opens up. as you hit the accelerator, just tap either paddle, once or twice, just before or as you turn the wheel. no delay.
I only really need to do this when I feel I need to get 'there' quickly.
The paddle tap is rather convenient. This should not stop anyone, of course, from showing up at the dealer and pressuring them to help.
Hope this helps.
If someone else has already figured this out, I pass credit to them
I am a new owner (1100 miles) and have the harsh shifting, delay, whatever you want to call it 'problem', 'annoyance' also. Love the car, hate the problem.
I was almost freakin killed the other day because the tranny took a second or so to decide to 'go' as i was taking a left across busy oncoming traffic, as many people complain about above.
But I did figure out that if i tug one of the paddles just as I accelerate, the problem is not a problem.
try it,. It does not 'solve' it, it just lets you take the left, right, whatever, without the delay.
so, get in the left lane, wheels straight of course, blinker on. traffic opens up. as you hit the accelerator, just tap either paddle, once or twice, just before or as you turn the wheel. no delay.
I only really need to do this when I feel I need to get 'there' quickly.
The paddle tap is rather convenient. This should not stop anyone, of course, from showing up at the dealer and pressuring them to help.
Hope this helps.
If someone else has already figured this out, I pass credit to them
The ZF-9 Acura used in the '15 TLX had the same issue. The car hesitates while trying to decide what gear it should be in.. it only happened while rolling, especially is going at a lower speed and you want to accelerate quickly to merge or whatever. I was told this is normal behavior by Acura Customer Relations.
This 10 speed will do that too.. if I do a rolling slow and go at a stop sign (slowing to almost a stop then accelerating), I give it gas and it does nothing for a second. It doesn't happen often but I know it's there
So I have been experiencing this issue, but I did not bring my car into the dealership as I thought I needed to 'break' the car in. Unfortunately, at 11,000k miles, I am still experiencing this hard shifting between 2-3 gear regardless of what mode I am in. So please keep us informed if any dealership found a solution to this problem.
I actually experience another odd issue, it only happened once, but it appeared when I was doing about 40mph that the torque converter had not locked up, and Giving gas to the car increased the RPMs but not relative to the car moving, much like how cars that don’t have a lock up clutch on the torque converter feel, it eventually locked after about 5 seconds of me Reving and noticing that
I have 2005 TL, and my 3rd gear also slams it in when I am easy on the throttle or letting off the throttle when going about 25 or 30 mph. If the acceleration continues, and I keep some pressure on the drive-line, it does not THUNK it into 3rd. Its like the ECM, or whatever system it is, does not realize that I am letting off the throttle. It thinks I am GUNNING IT, so it just thunks it into 3rd with heavy force. It should be easier than that under light throttle. So, something is not calibrated properly. And this TL has had this problem since I bought it in 2007... I have fresh fluid, but it has no effect on it. 96k miles now. If a new transmission fixes it, I bet you $1 that it won't last. Because I think the issue is a design flaw. Honda/Acura carries forward a lot of designs so they don't make big changes at once.. which is smart.. because they can increase reliability that way. But there is something that they are doing in their engineering that is creating this same issue across many models.
fix? replace 3rd gear pressure switch / solenoid??? I may try this.
I had a very abnormal shift a couple of weeks ago.. slow acceleration in traffic, the shift from (guessing) 2-3 hit so hard that it felt like I was rear-ended/bumped. It has only happened once, not before of since but that really had me worried.
Has anyone else noticed uneven/harsh shifting at times in the lower gears in Comfort driving mode? I drive in a lot of traffic and when I have to slowly accelerate up to 30-40, the shift from 2nd to 3rd is not smooth at all. I have that feeling that the transmission is searching for the right gear
I am a bit sensitive to Acura transmission issues after the fiasco I had with the TLX 9 speed, so I might not have the best perspective on this.
If I am accelerating right up to highway speeds, the RDX shifts fine.. it's that low speed shift that doesn't feel quite "right" especially compared to the ultra smooth shifting of the MKX I just got out of.
I have a 2016 rdx and ran into this exact problem. Would periodically hard shift between 30-40 mph. Took it to the dealer. There were no stored codes. They took it for an extended drive and they got it to happen. They said they got an onboard snapshot with a code p0848 which indicated an intermittent problem with the third clutch pressure switch. They replaced it. I am hoping that was the problem!
That switch is on the side of the transmission . You can see it behind the drivers side wheel. I replaced those about at 65k-70k miles and I did not see any difference. I now have 99.5k miles.
last month I replaced all 4 "Shift solenoid valve A, B, C, and torque converter". And I put in 1 can of Seafoam Transmission flush to supposedly "remove varnishes".. The seafoam says to leave it in at least 50 miles. I left it in for 150miles than did a 3x3 fluid swap.. And there may be some progress but its still not 100% fixed. (note the seafoam says you can leave some in as a conditioner, and you pretty much have no choice because the whole process of a 3x3 drain and fill, does not flush the entire transmission, so some remains.). So, it has been about 500 miles now.. And some of the seafoam is still in there. It might be not as hard a shift or as often, but it is still there if I left off the gas at the right time, just as it shifts from 2nd to 3rd.
My effort will be to remove the dual linear solenoid panel on top of the transmission and make sure it is clean enough to slide those pins.
I have a HDS on my laptop. And I did a check on the dual linear solenoid plate , which is A and B, and it said it tested out "Ok" and there were no codes.
Then I did a test on all 4 of the "Shift solenoid valve A, B, C, and torque converter", and when those tested, I heard Clicking. But I did not hear any clicking on the dual linear solenoid plate. So is that bad?
I would just replace the dual linear plate, but I think they have an adjustment screw on each solenoid, but I do not have a pressure gauge. Plus an OEM one is over $300. So I just thought about cleaning it first and running through a different kind of test that Checks the OHM reading on each solenoid, AND you also test it by connecting 12v to it. You should hear it click. All these videos are on youtube.
I have a fluid filter I may swap out too, if it get back in there again and fiddle with that dual linear solenoid panel.
I also have enough fluid for 1 more 3x3 drain and fill. So I was contemplating adding more of of that seafoam.. But I dont want to get too much in there.
One thing I notice is that based on SOTP, I have an increase of horse power and it shifts faster. And downshifts faster. So, I like it.. But i need to keep doing whatever it is that I am doing. haha Throwing the towel at it. Trying anything that can be related to the 3rd gear. But I also have a hard reverse.
Interesting, the Helm book says if you have excessive shock on ALL gears, then start with the Dual linear solenoid , then replace the Speed Sensor.. which is pretty cheap on ebay. And It mounts near the dual linear.. And it also calls for the ATF temperature sensor replacement. but still, I have no codes for any of that. So I have not done it.. I dont mind throwing money at it, if it is not too expensive, but I dont want to do the work for nothing either. haha
Just picked up a 2020 RDX ( build 9/19). No hard shifting. Seems to downshift quickly with paddles as well.
I had a 2020 loaner (A Spec, ~ 1000 mi on odometer) for 5 days while I had work done on my '19. The transmission was extremely smooth - so much so I'm considering having the dealer reset mine to see if relearning makes a difference (my hopes aren't very high). I had no issues with CarPlay either. Obviously not a large sample size but it made me a bit envious when I drove my repaired Advance off the dealer lot.
That's right. These acuras, like my TL, normally shift unusually smooth. And under moderate acceleration my TL still shifts smooth. Just some conditions now, it will shift hard, because its getting old, and tiny holes in the valve body and solenoid control valves can get clogged. So I've been working to clean it. Adding stuff like seafoam flush, and doing drain and fills, and I have swapped a few shift solenoids, and the next thing I want to do is change the filter and remove and clean that dual solenoid valve switch thing you see posted above. It's already getting better.
Originally Posted by Fury63
I had a 2020 loaner (A Spec, ~ 1000 mi on odometer) for 5 days while I had work done on my '19. The transmission was extremely smooth - so much so I'm considering having the dealer reset mine to see if relearning makes a difference (my hopes aren't very high). I had no issues with CarPlay either. Obviously not a large sample size but it made me a bit envious when I drove my repaired Advance off the dealer lot.
ya sure, Honda puts out new cars that shift hard then resolves the problem by itself ...
typical azine nonsense.
That’s pretty common sense and well known that a brand new transmission has to wear in its clutch plates, it shouldn’t be shifting hard but it will get better after they break in...
That’s pretty common sense and well known that a brand new transmission has to wear in its clutch plates, it shouldn’t be shifting hard but it will get better after they break in...
I've owned 30 automobiles since 1989 - most of them new with various types of automatic transmissions from various manufacturers. I've never experienced one with poor shift quality that improved after some arbitrary break-in.
Prior to the their 10AT, Honda had no experience building automatic transmissions with planetary gears. While they've been building automatic transmissions for decades, they used a proprietary design with parallel shafts like a manual transmission.
The 10AT is a commendable effort, but it can't compete with something like the ZF 8HP for shift quality and durability.
I've owned 30 automobiles since 1989 - most of them new with various types of automatic transmissions from various manufacturers. I've never experienced one with poor shift quality that improved after some arbitrary break-in.
Prior to the their 10AT, Honda had no experience building automatic transmissions with planetary gears. While they've been building automatic transmissions for decades, they used a proprietary design with parallel shafts like a manual transmission.
The 10AT is a commendable effort, but it can't compete with something like the ZF 8HP for shift quality and durability.
Cars of the past are very different of today’s cars, how many 10 speed automatic transmission cars have you owned?
For those who are just joining us and think this a bunch of bull. ^^^^
ONEPack videos are official releases from Acura intended to inform Acura service staff about newly released vehicles.
Automatic transmission have multiple clutches that control the gear selection process. For planetary gear transmissions, these are typically in the shape of bands around the planetary gear assemblies.
My 2019 RDX Advance SH-AWD was one of the first to roll off the assembly line ( purchased "opening weekend" June, 2018 ), and initially it had rough shifting in low gears. It has smoothed out a lot with wear over 10,000+ miles, and this is no longer a concern.
Hesitation upon sudden demands for acceleration is a different issue, especially re-accelerating after slowing to a near stop.
Did someone say that? I have had numerous new Hondas and Acuras with 5-speed and 6-speed transmissions, and that's not something I would say. But it's been a long time since they were new, especially the 5-speed 1st-gen MDX!
Strangely, I find myself tooling around in that well-worn 2005 MDX instead of the 2019 RDX, a lot of the time. Something to be said for simplicity and predictability. ( And also not giving a crap if the dogs or whatever I'm hauling mess it up ).
03-08-2019, 08:35 PM
