So the PRL intake had said they weren't going to be shipped until august but yesterday i got my tracking and today it showed up
of course i popped it in between weekend errands
comes with no instructions but generally self explanatory .
This is the filter & tube combo, the filter says green filter but its prl blue so not sure if you’re already running it might want to contact them and ask. I was running the k&n drop it but i swapped it out
this is what comes in the box
the only odd piece was this
it inserts in place of the post on the rubber snorkel to support it a little better and assuming during testing there was some collapsing..
here is a before and after
from a stop it felt a little more throttle was needed but once the rpms picked up it seemed significantly faster & you can hear the pronounced turbo sounds now.
i installed it with a stock flash so it could calibrate and drove it with that & will be flashing back to stage 2 in the morning and will get some videos
my only other power mod is the ktuner & grp intercooler but if i keep the rdx gonna get the prl downpipe next
if you have any questions on it or are on the fence go for the intake tube its a quick mod that you dont need the flash for if you didnt want to go that route
Thanks for sharing, I like the attention to detail of PRL to include the plastic pin to strengthen the intake duct. Is the silicone tube wider than OEM one? That is the only reason I can think of about why you need to add more throttle to get the car going initially.
Do you notice improvement in throttle response? By that I mean the speed and linearity of how the engine responses compared to your throttle input? Also, roughly how loud is the wastegate sound on percentage, compared to K&N?
Yes, thank you. I ordered only the hose and the Type R evap piece since I've already got a Green filter installed so I'm curious if mine will include the inlet reinforcement piece. I did have to make my own reinforcement already due to it collapsing under load with the upgraded MHI stage 2 turbo which was very frustrating for months since the root cause wasn't readily apparent.
Thanks for sharing, I like the attention to detail of PRL to include the plastic pin to strengthen the intake duct. Is the silicone tube wider than OEM one? That is the only reason I can think of about why you need to add more throttle to get the car going initially.
Do you notice improvement in throttle response? By that I mean the speed and linearity of how the engine responses compared to your throttle input? Also, roughly how loud is the wastegate sound on percentage, compared to K&N?
it seems a little wider but nothing insane, i think its more visual since oem has the grooves vs the prl smooth body
Above 3500 you can hear the sound if you get on it, only had about 20 min to zip around errands lol
the k&n you could hear slightlyif nothing else was on but never had my wife drive it and stand by to hear it
Yes, thank you. I ordered only the hose and the Type R evap piece since I've already got a Green filter installed so I'm curious if mine will include the inlet reinforcement piece. I did have to make my own reinforcement already due to it collapsing under load with the upgraded MHI stage 2 turbo which was very frustrating for months since the root cause wasn't readily apparent.
yea i saw the part numbers on the invoice and was like damn this is alot of stuff
the reinforced tube is probably the most important part but gonna push it this week then open it back up to see if anything shifted
Got mine installed this morning. Ordered without the filter and received all parts pictured here. Smooth install, had to loosen the airbox to bend it out of the way to fit the piece but otherwise very straightforward.
Hey, I just ordered the kit and got it, I didn't get the evap thing that replaces on the tube, so that's a bummer, didn't realize it till I took everything apart.
Just installed the Stage 1 PRL intake on my ‘22 A-Spec Advance. Removed both resonators in the air box as well. Sounds great, you can really hear the turbo now, and especially hear the blow off/recirculation. Feels a little stronger above 2500-3000 rpm as well. 👍🏻👍🏻
How hard was the complete intake kit to install? What was the most noticeable difference/improvement?
It was not hard at all. Probably took 30 minutes or so, and I was being super careful. It definitely feels more responsive above 2000-2500rpm, and pulls a little harder…..but for me, the best part is the noticeable turbo sounds. I think taking both airbox resonators out is what made it so loud though.
One question to owners, is the CTR EVAP fitting needed or not for this kit?
Did we ever get an answer from anyone on this question? I'd like to confirm the answer before attempting my own install of the PRL intake. Has anyone put together any instructions or tutorial anywhere? Thanks everyone!
Did we ever get an answer from anyone on this question? I'd like to confirm the answer before attempting my own install of the PRL intake. Has anyone put together any instructions or tutorial anywhere? Thanks everyone!
i believe its needed, the oem one screws down to the oem hose, on the prl you cant. so the ctr just slides into the hole and clamps down.
Just installed the Stage 1 PRL intake on my ‘22 A-Spec Advance. Removed both resonators in the air box as well. Sounds great, you can really hear the turbo now, and especially hear the blow off/recirculation. Feels a little stronger above 2500-3000 rpm as well. 👍🏻👍🏻
do u have any videos of it? Thinking of doing it to my ‘22 aspec advance as well
How did you remove the clamp for the smaller hole furthest away from the air box? Also, any tips for removing the hoses from the factory piece? I can’t get mine to come off 😔
Can anyone give me insight as to how much work it is to remove the resonators in the stock air box? does the bumper or anything else have to come off? Thanks in advance!
Are there any other options for this part or one like it now that PRL is going out of business/combining with another company? I see the other thread about delayed and canceled orders.
I would also like to remove a stock resonator but dont want to suck in lots of hot air.
So for the intake debate. There is no full intake released yet. PRL said they are coming out with a turbo inlet pipe to get rid of the plastic one with resonators that mounts over the top of the turbo (no timeline yet). For myself I made my own using their PRL silicone tube, OEM MAF from a donor airbox lid (must be oem size and orientation or you’ll have lots of issues) coupler to a 45 degree bend to a KN 0930 filter with a Filter Wear over that for moisture. Turbo sounds awesome now and the purge sounds even better. The biggest debate you hear is “sucking hot air”. Well I reused the oem air scoop to direct more cool air over the filter itself. I am tuned with Phearable Stage 3 and I monitor the IAT1 (before turbo) and IAT2 (after IC). My numbers have been looking good. The only really bad time you’ll have issues is dead stop traffic and 95 degrees. Also my other argument is if you believe that stock airbox doesn’t get hot as hell inside being it’s all plastic and soaking from engine heat, then idk what to tell you because it definitely does. So many turbo cars run open element filters and make plenty of power , but to each their own. Here are some pics for anyone interested.
So for the intake debate. There is no full intake released yet. PRL said they are coming out with a turbo inlet pipe to get rid of the plastic one with resonators that mounts over the top of the turbo (no timeline yet). For myself I made my own using their PRL silicone tube, OEM MAF from a donor airbox lid (must be oem size and orientation or you’ll have lots of issues) coupler to a 45 degree bend to a KN 0930 filter with a Filter Wear over that for moisture. Turbo sounds awesome now and the purge sounds even better. The biggest debate you hear is “sucking hot air”. Well I reused the oem air scoop to direct more cool air over the filter itself. I am tuned with Phearable Stage 3 and I monitor the IAT1 (before turbo) and IAT2 (after IC). My numbers have been looking good. The only really bad time you’ll have issues is dead stop traffic and 95 degrees. Also my other argument is if you believe that stock airbox doesn’t get hot as hell inside being it’s all plastic and soaking from engine heat, then idk what to tell you because it definitely does. So many turbo cars run open element filters and make plenty of power , but to each their own. Here are some pics for anyone interested.
Bro how did you cut the stock air box? please send me a message if you can, i can’t for some reason
So for the intake debate. There is no full intake released yet. PRL said they are coming out with a turbo inlet pipe to get rid of the plastic one with resonators that mounts over the top of the turbo (no timeline yet). For myself I made my own using their PRL silicone tube, OEM MAF from a donor airbox lid (must be oem size and orientation or you’ll have lots of issues) coupler to a 45 degree bend to a KN 0930 filter with a Filter Wear over that for moisture. Turbo sounds awesome now and the purge sounds even better. The biggest debate you hear is “sucking hot air”. Well I reused the oem air scoop to direct more cool air over the filter itself. I am tuned with Phearable Stage 3 and I monitor the IAT1 (before turbo) and IAT2 (after IC). My numbers have been looking good. The only really bad time you’ll have issues is dead stop traffic and 95 degrees. Also my other argument is if you believe that stock airbox doesn’t get hot as hell inside being it’s all plastic and soaking from engine heat, then idk what to tell you because it definitely does. So many turbo cars run open element filters and make plenty of power , but to each their own. Here are some pics for anyone interested.
hey man its not letting me send you a message. I have 2 questions about your set up.
1. Whats the size of the 45 elbow (length)
2. How do you cut the oem maf sensor? What tools did you use? How big of section did you cut out?
hey man its not letting me send you a message. I have 2 questions about your set up.
1. Whats the size of the 45 elbow (length)
2. How do you cut the oem maf sensor? What tools did you use? How big of section did you cut out?
1. Length im unsure of at the moment. I tried looking on the auto zone website but no info.
2.cutting the oem mad is fun…not really but I traced a line of where i wanted to cut and used a dremel with a cutting bit. You have to cut it out in a way to leave enough surface area for the couplers to be able to grab onto.
hey man its not letting me send you a message. I have 2 questions about your set up.
1. Whats the size of the 45 elbow (length)
2. How do you cut the oem maf sensor? What tools did you use? How big of section did you cut out?
I've ordered 3 of these kits....2 for TLX Type S and latest for my '25 RDX. I had all items laid out to get ready to install. Had OEM factory
unit disconnected. I looked at everything and realized the new kit was missing a part. Look at the pic here....right side just above the hose clamps.
That part goes down in to the larger hole in the PRL silicone intake hose. I didn't get that. Took awhile to make sure, etc, etc. Called PRL at
724-325-6300 and pressed "2" for Cust. Serv. The lady was pretty knowledgeable, but, I also asked to confirm the issue with someone in the
Tech Dept. He called me 15 min. later and we talked it through. Apparently this same issue happened once before...leaving out that part.
He confirmed it's what i needed and they are shipping it out UPS today. Their picture on PRL web site for the 2019+ RDX 2.0T Stage 1 does NOT
show this piece. And it should.
So, what you see with the picture that was posted and I copied here is what you should get.
Best Wishes! OH...just for info on my '24 TLX Type S with this Stage 1 Intake Kit......the throttle response is VERY noticeable. Throttle "tip in" is right there
and the acceleration is smooth, strong, and linear. Felt the same on my '22 TLX Type S. Same Kit. Easy install. No real increase in HP or 0 to 60 times I'm
told....but, the drivability is quite apparent. Worth the money...at least to me. Street driven car.
On the RDX...just a little more involved, but, not "rocket science" IF you have decent mechanical skills. Don't need to be an "Acura Master Tech" to install.
True, they don't include an "Install Guide" as I feel they should....so I watched a You Tube video from AHC Garage...a division of a large Acura dealership in
Pembroke Pines, Florida.
They post a lot of vids on mods for many Acuras and Hondas.
I recently installed the air filter from PRL and believe it made a little difference in throttle response and possibly gas mileage. My understanding is the PRL air filter is a Green Filter USA product. I had an AEM in my 2017 MDX and I think it made it slower.
I've ordered 3 of these kits....2 for TLX Type S and latest for my '25 RDX. I had all items laid out to get ready to install. Had OEM factory
unit disconnected. I looked at everything and realized the new kit was missing a part. Look at the pic here....right side just above the hose clamps.
That part goes down in to the larger hole in the PRL silicone intake hose. I didn't get that. Took awhile to make sure, etc, etc. Called PRL at
724-325-6300 and pressed "2" for Cust. Serv. The lady was pretty knowledgeable, but, I also asked to confirm the issue with someone in the
Tech Dept. He called me 15 min. later and we talked it through. Apparently this same issue happened once before...leaving out that part.
He confirmed it's what i needed and they are shipping it out UPS today. Their picture on PRL web site for the 2019+ RDX 2.0T Stage 1 does NOT
show this piece. And it should.
So, what you see with the picture that was posted and I copied here is what you should get.
Best Wishes! OH...just for info on my '24 TLX Type S with this Stage 1 Intake Kit......the throttle response is VERY noticeable. Throttle "tip in" is right there
and the acceleration is smooth, strong, and linear. Felt the same on my '22 TLX Type S. Same Kit. Easy install. No real increase in HP or 0 to 60 times I'm
told....but, the drivability is quite apparent. Worth the money...at least to me. Street driven car.
On the RDX...just a little more involved, but, not "rocket science" IF you have decent mechanical skills. Don't need to be an "Acura Master Tech" to install.
True, they don't include an "Install Guide" as I feel they should....so I watched a You Tube video from AHC Garage...a division of a large Acura dealership in
Pembroke Pines, Florida.
They post a lot of vids on mods for many Acuras and Hondas.
