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Hi I was wondering how I would go about installing an oil catch can for this car. I've just recently learnt about the problem with direct injection engines and this seems like the good preventative measure to prolonging the life of the engine. Would I need to get one with one or 2 inlets?
I was thinking about doing this as well, but will probably hold off. I have one installed on a port injected naturally aspirated vehicle, and I get about half the can filled every 5000 miles. I did some research and I believe the Mishimoto oil catch can for the Civic Type R would be a direct fit (includes bracket + hoses + clamps) for our vehicles since our engine is a detuned version of that engine. However, when i read the message boards, it doesn't seem like they're catching a lot of oil, at least not from the PCV side. On the clean side (line from vent cover to filtered air before the turbo), I think I read that some were finding oil residue. This would end up getting caught in the intercooler, so i'm not as concerned about that.
This guy is saying that for the "older" direct injection engines, oil catch can is a good idea.
I would agree with post 2 and 3 and check with the service adviser/technician first.
If you rely on asking any dealer or service advisor, that typically know NOTHING about most things anyway, they will tell you not to do it and that, most likely, it will void your warranty...it will create a war between the US and Saudi Arabia...etc. It will NOT void the warranty of the vehicle...you are simply intercepting the oil mist coming out of the PCV headed to the intake. It will have zero effect on doing anything other than adding a layer of protection to your engine to further prevent carbon build-up.
If you have time, I was wondering if you can provide pictures of the oil catch can install. I don't want to screw it up and I want to make sure I disconnect the right hose to install it myself. Since there are no kits out there yet for our car, where did you ended up mounting the can in the engine bay? It will be nice to see it. Thanks in advance.
I think it is a great idea to have the system installed.
@Duna ...I have not installed an OCC on my RDX as I don't plan to keep it for more than 3 years or 36K miles. I have installed them on my kids Subaru's and my 2019 Ram. Highly recommend the following and happy to help you with the install. VERY simple as you remove the PCV hose that goes from the PCV valve to the throttle body input and then connect the new PCV hose from the PCV valve to the INPUT side of the OCC and then the OUTPUT of the OCC goes back to the throttle body input side. VERY hard to screw the up but feel free to PM me and I'll answer any additional questions you may have.
I HIGHLY advise against the cheap eBay or Amazon cans as you want an OCC that is BOTH baffled and filtered and Mishimoto is one of the few manufacturers that does this. They also have a Lifetime Warranty too.
Last edited by securityguy; 04-13-2019 at 07:58 PM.
I was wondering there is one tubing which is labeled "IG -TA > CSM, ECO 180626. I can see that this tube appears to be the one that connects to the PCV to the intake manifold. I'm sure all of the RDX has the identical PCV tubing. I wanted to make sure this is the same tubing that I need to route via the Catch can. Do you mind looking at your car one day and see if this is the tube that needs to be rerouted. That would be awesome!
BTW, I totally agree with Mishimoto selection. That is the OCC setup I will go with. Thank you for your help!
I have attached a picture of the tubing that was connected to the intake manifold to the PCV.
Originally Posted by securityguy
@Duna ...I have not installed an OCC on my RDX as I don't plan to keep it for more than 3 years or 36K miles. I have installed them on my kids Subaru's and my 2019 Ram. Highly recommend the following and happy to help you with the install. VERY simple as you remove the PCV hose that goes from the PCV valve to the throttle body input and then connect the new PCV hose from the PCV valve to the INPUT side of the OCC and then the OUTPUT of the OCC goes back to the throttle body input side. VERY hard to screw the up but feel free to PM me and I'll answer any additional questions you may have.
I HIGHLY advise against the cheap eBay or Amazon cans as you want an OCC that is BOTH baffled and filtered and Mishimoto is one of the few manufacturers that does this. They also have a Lifetime Warranty too.
If anyone is interested, I'll be adding the following OCC system in the RDX. It will be similar to the Mishimoto placement of the OCC for the Civic Type R setup. It's too bad they don't offer a kit for our RDX yet. Anyway, the bracket needed will need to be custom made; I will need to bend it and cut off the excess and drill some holes on it; I will paint black as well.
I did the exact same thing to both of my Subaru's using the same style bracket (just the next smaller version) and existing bolts on the firewall to attach to. Worked out great and I am highly satisfied.
Were you able to install the OCC yet? I am curious how it looks.
Thanks securityguy and thoiboi. After doing some research, I really think our RDX will benefit on having OCC installed. Looking forward in finishing up this project.
Originally Posted by AZ4035
Hi I was wondering how I would go about installing an oil catch can for this car. I've just recently learnt about the problem with direct injection engines and this seems like the good preventative measure to prolonging the life of the engine. Would I need to get one with one or 2 inlets?
I also used two stainless steel machine screws and stainless lock nuts with the teflon inset to attach the catch can bracket to the fabricated bracket so it will never come loose.
Ah right. Thanks man. I forgot to mention them. Teflon tape on the screws is a great idea...I was thinking about loctite blue but teflon is much cheaper solution!
Originally Posted by securityguy
I also used two stainless steel machine screws and stainless lock nuts with the teflon inset to attach the catch can bracket to the fabricated bracket so it will never come loose.
@Duna...you're not quite with me on the teflon. Not tape or thread locker but the actual nuts that have the teflon insert inside them that grabs the screw and locks it in place. Found them at my local ACE Hardware store.
Last edited by securityguy; 04-16-2019 at 12:45 PM.
In case anyone wanted to see my install of the oil catch can, I have attached it here. The oem pcv hose was impossible to pull out from the intake manifold and needed the hose pliers to disconnect it. I ended up reusing the PCV tubing to the intake manifold. Once I receive the hose pliers, I am planning to loop the new hose around the AC valves and reroute the PCV tubing correctly. Anyway, this is my current setup and I had no problems.
@Duna please post a follow-up in 3-6 months. I want to know if it catches anything (oil,water, junk, etc). I am thinking of installing one after watching Scotty Kilmer YouTube video.
I don’t think this mod void the warranty as long as the catch content is removed regularly. I heard horror stories of the crap in there froze up in colder climate causing all sort of issues.
Sure. I'll post an update 3 months from now. Honestly, I hope there isn't too much blow-by in the OCC. This will help us determine if the engine was made better for us BTW, the engine bay gets hot so liquid freezing is not a problem. If anything, we should check the filters in the OCC is clogged with soot and oil. This will help prevent any catastrophic issues in the future.
@Duna ...you need to check your OCC every 1000-1500 miles for the first 5000 miles and then monthly should be good. Between oil, condensation and gas, it can fill up pretty quickly based on differing conditions. Only saying this so you don't leave it unattended and block the air return from the can back to the intake.
Absolutely, I was planning to check it frequently. Thank you for the heads up. The locknut worked perfectly!
Great job on the install my friend! Glad everything worked out as you planned. You may be surprised at how much it catches in the first 1000-1500 miles until things normalize.
Great job on the install my friend! Glad everything worked out as you planned. You may be surprised at how much it catches in the first 1000-1500 miles until things normalize.
Thank you. It is satisfying to do preventive maintenance on the car; I believe any amount of oil/fuel the OCC eliminates from entering the intake manifold is a plus.
I have a Corksport OCC on my Mazdaspeed 3 as they have direct injection too. On that car I collect soot on my tailpipes, but I keep it from staining by using a metal polish on the tailpipe. I have not noticed any soot on my tailpipes of my RDX.
Another issue we have with that engine is that the intake valves get nasty carbon buildup. I had mine blasted with ground walnut shells just about a year ago at 110,000 miles and the buildup was minimal to those seen in other cars. Perhaps the OCC makes a difference, but the most I capture in there is water.
If you look at the tailpipes of Mazdaspeeds, Hyundai Velosters you will see the soot buildup. I’ve never noticed this on a Honda/Acura. Do I need to get out more or is it rare?
I have a Corksport OCC on my Mazdaspeed 3 as they have direct injection too. On that car I collect soot on my tailpipes, but I keep it from staining by using a metal polish on the tailpipe. I have not noticed any soot on my tailpipes of my RDX.
Another issue we have with that engine is that the intake valves get nasty carbon buildup. I had mine blasted with ground walnut shells just about a year ago at 110,000 miles and the buildup was minimal to those seen in other cars. Perhaps the OCC makes a difference, but the most I capture in there is water.
If you look at the tailpipes of Mazdaspeeds, Hyundai Velosters you will see the soot buildup. I’ve never noticed this on a Honda/Acura. Do I need to get out more or is it rare?
Thanks and blessings!
Over the weekend, I wanted to see how much oil it caught. I drove the RDX about 200 miles with the OCC installed and it had semi thick oil collected; it was a small amount. I assume after driving about 1000 miles, it may have about a shot glass amount of oil collected. Honestly, I rather have some of this stuff being collect and not go into the intake manifold. I order some of the PCV hose from Acura and planning to cut and size it up properly for this OCC. All the hose and fittings that are available on Amazon/eBay is not the way to go. I even called JEGS and other similar parts store and their PCV hose were way over priced. For $21 on the OEM PCV hose and some barb fittings to extend the length, this is the way to go.
If you are planning to keep your car for a long time, I would install a OCC.
...I even called JEGS and other similar parts store and their PCV hose were way over priced. For $21 on the OEM PCV hose and some barb fittings to extend the length, this is the way to go.
If you are planning to keep your car for a long time, I would install a OCC.
@Duna do you have the PCV hose part number? I am in for a long haul so the OCC makes sense from a preventive maintenance.
So, I got the OEM PCV hose from Acura and reconnected everything. The hose is much better made and fits the plastic barbs perfectly on the PCV side. The hose I purchased from amazon sucked and I was worried about air restrictions. Now that I have OEM hose installed, I have no worries.
With the OCC I installed, there were some fragments of oil on the outlet side; it was very little oil but the bronze filter in the OCC did allow oil to pass through. I think the length of the hose from the PCV to the catch can did not allow enough cooling to occur before the oil filled air passed through the aluminum plate inside the OCC. Nevertheless, it was very little and I am happy to see oily substance pooling in the OCC.
All the parts needed are listed above and I totally do recommend purchasing the OEM PCV hose from Acura. While you are at it, do purchase their hose clamps. Just in case, I ordered another PCV hose to return to factory setup. The barb I used to extend the hose length from the manifold to the OCC will be difficult to separate from the hose. Anyway, the hose is only $8 so it would be much easier to install a new hose.
No, it is the E-8 indicated in the diagram. If you look down on the manifold near the firewall side, you will see the gray tubing connected. If you follow the tube, it will be connected to the left side of the engine. Oh watch the Mishimoto video for the Civic Type R OCC install; our engines are similar to the honda 2.0T. If you remove the engine cover, the PCV Outlet will be below the wiring harness for the injectors.
I was concern that the custom bracket may not reach the far end of our fuel line area. It looks different from the Civic type r or the accord 2.0T bracket. I just ended up making my own.
Thanks for the feedback Duna.
With the Accord 2.0T kit, you would flip the bracket so that the OCC is mounted at the location as shown in your picture. Mishimoto gave me the dimensions of the bracket and looks like it should work. The bracket's overall length is 227mm and the bolt holes spacing is 29mm, which is much shorter than 2019 RDX (around 60mm), but I can always drill hole on that bracket. There is a $66 price difference between the Accord 2.0T kit and the compact universal OCC, so I may just buy the universal one, the hose, and make the bracket like you did.
I finally got everything put together using duna's recommendation after multiple trips to home Depot to get the right parts and drill bits it's finally on. Hopefully I installed it correctly.
So a few pointers for some other people installing this.
1) Try not to drop the two bolts which secure that fuel line, I did and it disappeared near the control arms. I spent an hour cutting my arm up inside the engine bay to find nothing. I went to dealership and said it was never there and got it replaced for free.
2) When removing and replacing the engine cover make sure the rubber mounting inserts are still connected to the cover. After a few removals and replacements one of the rubber pieces pulled a disappearing act on me too.
3) Remove the bottom side of the original hose (marked yellow, this picture is of the after shot so the original hose is the one marked with red) and connect that to the outlet of your OCC (assuming I connected it properly) because the top portion of the hose will be insanely hard to snake a needle nose plier into (marked red) to remove.
I finally got everything put together using duna's recommendation after multiple trips to home Depot to get the right parts and drill bits it's finally on. Hopefully I installed it correctly.
1) Try not to drop the two bolts which secure that fuel line, I did and it disappeared near the control arms. I spent an hour cutting my arm up inside the engine bay to find nothing. I went to dealership and said it was never there and got it replaced for free.
Great job but why would you lie about the bolts???
10-26-2018, 11:15 PM
BTW, the engine bay gets hot so liquid freezing is not a problem. If anything, we should check the filters in the OCC is clogged with soot and oil. This will help prevent any catastrophic issues in the future.
