Hi,


I found some VSXX for $1450 without tires but its 18x8.5. I was hoping to get 19x8.5 but this is a steal.


Anyone else here running 18s?
Is it too small or is it ok?
How much drop did you do?
I was thinking of eibach lowering springs but i might just do coils to make up for the gap.


Let me know your thoughts fellas.

 

<p>I'm on 18's with 245/40's on no drop .. the gap really depends on how thick of tires you want to run. It is noticeable, but not as bad as 19's with no drop.</p><p>Looking at dropping on Eibach or H&amp;R's, but will have to wait until next year.</p>

 

Huh? You can't make the gap smaller by increasing tire size.

In the end, you have to maintain as close as possible the outer diameter of the tire as oem. Otherwise your speedometer will be completely out to lunch. By increasing rim size, all you're doing is reducing sidewall size on your tire. The smaller the sidewall, the harsher the ride will become.

 

Coils will definitely take care of your gap issue, however, what you need to be worried about is the offset of the wheels (how much they poke in or out). Do you know what the offset of the wheels is?

 

Offset is +38

 

I have 18's with eibach springs and am very pleased. I did not want a slammed look just take the gap out a bit and better handling.

 

<p>Offset/width can be changed on the VSXX; they're a 3-piece wheel. So, I wouldn't worry about that aspect. Unless however, you have no intention&nbsp;or even the thought of rebuilding them, then sure let's talk about the immediate width specs. They're not aggressive to the point where you need added negative camber. You won't even need stretched tires. They will fit, but they may look sunk; especially in the rear. However like I said, the VSXX can be rebuilt with different hardware, so you can theoretically get whatever specs (width wise) necessary once you figure out how you want the wheels to fit.</p><p>Naturally, a 3piece wheel will be a lipped wheel. And because of that, the VSXX will&nbsp;<em>appear&nbsp;</em>to be smaller than it really is; just the nature of a big lipped wheel. In my case, I have 18x10 XD9s on the rear, and visually they&nbsp;<em>appear </em>smaller than my fronts, which are 18x9. If this bothers you, keep looking for a set of&nbsp;19s.</p><p>I think you'd be happier with 19s, but if you don't mind the 18s you could always get a meatier tire to fill in the wheel well. 19s is the better way to go in terms of &quot;stance&quot; or &quot;fitment&quot;, but personally I prefer 18s because they're... 1. cheaper, 2. lighter, 3. can fit a bigger tire, 4. tires are cheaper.</p>

 

Thx

I might just get these and adjust it in the future if need be.

What size tires would you recommend?

 

<p>Depends on your visual preference I guess. Do you like a meatier, more functional look? Or do you like a thinner looking tire? I personally like the thicker look, and wish I had gone with a meatier tire.</p><p>My recommendation is&nbsp;<em>at least</em>&nbsp;225/40r18. If you want meatier, go with 235/40r18 or maybe even 225/45r18 (this one will be the thickest of the 3). For reference, I'm running 225/40/r18&nbsp;on a 9&quot; wheel up front. Check out my thread for some pics to get a better feel of the look. Personally I'd go with 235/40r18 but to reiterate, everyone has their own preference so you'll need to do a little bit of research on your end to figure out what's&nbsp;best for you.</p>

 

225/40 is actually what I was thinking as well.

 

What do you guys think of 235/45/18 & 18x7.5" 5x114.3 53mm+ or 48mm+ with a 1.3 drop on H&Rs?
Thanks for any advice!

 

so one of the shops here locally is telling me to go with 225/45 to keep OEM specs and for speedo accuracy. he said if i go 225/40 the speedo will be incorrect, he said it could show 40mph when really im only goin 30mph.


Now I knew it could be a little off but could it really be that much different? I thought it was more like speedo will show 40 when im really only going 38

 

Tire Size Calculator & Converter, Tire Size Conversion | Discount Tire

225/45 : 40 mph :: 225/40 : 38.64 mph

 

I have 235/45/18. I'm sure mathematically it's off alittle but using a gps app on my phone it's right on. No issues for me.

 

BUY THEM!!!

You can always rebuild them with a step lip conversion to go 19in and step lips look fucking great on the VSXX!!

Edit:

VSXX were made for step lips!!

 

i actually bought the rims already.... just trying to figure out the tires..


the specs they were comparing is actually from OEM to the tires im trying to get. it looks like about 5 mph differnce which is fine as long as its not 10mph over or more

 

Yaaaay for quality purchases!

 

<p>Use the calculator that cu2wagon posted. Claiming to be off by 10mph is complete ignorance. Congrats on your purchase... can't wait to see them on your ride!</p>

 

btw - the rims ended up being +45 offset. It looks like it may stick out 15mms based on the rimsandtires.com calculator. I may go with 235/40 tires instead.


Question is, will I rub with this set up? Should I roll the fenders (trying not to do it but if i have to i will).
Or maybe go with 225/40 so no rub?


ill be dropping on Megan coilovers and would like to do a 2 inch drop initially.

 

Finally got them on.... i may need spacers at the back... maybe 10-15mm...


went with 235/40/18 and Megan coils

 

<p>Sorry OP didn't see the question from a few days ago. No you won't need a roll. If you go lower, natural camber will tuck you under the wheel well with these specs. And as I suspected, you'd be a bit&nbsp;sunk in the rear.</p><p>Looks great so far!</p>

 

I'd be careful with the spacers. You'll start running into issues with the wheel bearings...

 

Car's looking good by the way!

 

Do you guys have any spacers that you recommend brand wise?


Or are they all pretty mucht the same?

 

I've heard bad things about Akata and Ichiba, but it's really hard to say how things went wrong. In most cases, it's install error (over/under torquing the spacers). If you use a torque wrench and torque them down to 80-85 ft lbs, I doubt you'd see a problem regardless of brand. So, I don't want to trash those brands (although I might have by accident already), but most issues (whether it be install error) are around those brands. Granted this might be the case because more people buy those spacers compared to other brands... I don't know the percentage of them failing, but in absolute figures it's not insignificant if you do a quick Google search.

If you're worried despite knowing you'd be torquing them down properly, I recommend H&R because they have a reputation that hasn't been tainted even by user installation error as far as I know. That and, they're made in Germany, which may give you additional piece of mind. But most people do trust H&R for their quality line of products. I was gonna go with H&Rs until I decided extended studs was too much work for me because I didn't want to deal with open-ended lug nuts in case I decide not to use the spacers anymore but keep the extended studs on. To each their own, I just didn't wanna do more work than I wanted to, but the extended studs route is also a plus in the safety department when talking spacers.

I ended up with GarageLine spacers, haven't had any issues. Torqued them down to spec (I believe they recommend 80 ft lb), checked the spacers once every week for the first month or so; tightness of the nuts didn't change so I didn't bother checking anymore since that last time. Wheels haven't fallen off yet!

If you're still worried, I suggest no spacers at all.

 

thanks for the input.... I'll check into these brands you mentioned.

 

finally got spacers on... i went with 15mm on and rolled the rears to be safe....

 

im not too good with these negative camber but im not really a big fan of it either.

i cant tell how many degress this is.
is mine ok? or is it too much? i dont want to have too much negative camber that it eats tire too much on the side....


should i get it corrected?

 

The right picture is a bit misleading as it doesn't look level; the floor is slanted so I won't comment on the camber spec here.

The left picture is better. Looks to be about -3 degrees or maybe a bit more negative. Personally (not scientifically speaking), -3 degrees-ish isn't terrible; I don't think it'll affect your tire wear much. However, if you haven't gotten an alignment yet, you definitely should. The measurement of concern is the toe. Incorrectly set toe angles will eat up tires a lot quicker than negative camber will (to an extent of course... I'm sure -7 degrees of camber will produce "camber wear").

An alignment won't be able to straighten out your camber unless you have aftermarket rear camber arms. It is not adjustable from factory.

 

hi,


ok, so if i want it to be 0 camber then i have to buy a camber kit?


also, i already did my alignment after i had installed the coils but before i had installed the spacers. not sure if the order matters. but im guessing the alignment has fixed the toe and i shouldnt worry too much about the tire wear???

 

I don't think you necessarily want zero camber; as long as it's within the manufacturers spec, you should be fine. Something like -1 degrees should be fine. With no negative camber, cornering ability will be negatively affected. Yes, you will need an aftermarket camber kit.

Spacers will not affect your alignment. However, if you gotten an alignment immediately after installing the coilovers, then your toe may have changed from the springs settling over time. I don't recall if you mentioned or not, but I hope you gave it some time before doing the alignment. If this isn't an issue, then yeah your toe should be fine, assuming the alignment shop did the alignment properly.

 

yes, sorry.. i meant at least manufacturers spec.... but if you think i would have even tire wear the way its currently set up then im good with it.


i actually did the alignment 2 weeks after I installed the coils, i hope thats enough time for the suspension to settle

 

Sounds like you should be set!

 

came in to acurazine to look at some random post. Glad to see some one purchasing a legit wheel.