bent valves
bent valves
Hello, first time on a forum and figured if i needed info on a tsx this would be the place. So i have an 09 tsx and the timing chain broke while driving. I originally was going to take the head off and send it in for a rebuild. I then found an engine out of a 12 for about 1k. So my question is, are all 2nd gen engines the exact same? If so is it mostly plug and play if swapped?
Hello, first time on a forum and figured if i needed info on a tsx this would be the place. So i have an 09 tsx and the timing chain broke while driving. I originally was going to take the head off and send it in for a rebuild. I then found an engine out of a 12 for about 1k. So my question is, are all 2nd gen engines the exact same? If so is it mostly plug and play if swapped?
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You are right. I just called Acura and the guy told me the ecu's are different. I guess i could find an 09 engine. I just hope i don't get one that burns oil or have that VTC actuator rattle my last one had.
If you car is still in warranty dealer should be able to repair under warranty as the VTC actuator rattle is a know Acura TSB, you could also ask for a goodwill consideration by calling Acura Client Relations. On my 09 VTC actuator stretched the chain which lead to bent valves. I wish I considered the engine swap as the dealer wants around $2600 to fix my car, as I am out of warranty.
The ECU will have updates based on model year changes. This does not necessarily affect the engine internally. Swap the sensors from your old engine to new one & call it a day.
Last edited by evo9; Feb 13, 2015 at 01:26 PM.
I was thinking the same thing, but didn't feel like posting because I'm worried about spreading wrong information. I'm thinking as long as you use the correct wiring harness to match the ECU, you should be fine. The engine itself likely didn't change from 09-14. I don't think they ever fixed the oil consumption issue even in the later years right? If not, I'm thinking the engines are very likely to be the same.
I was thinking the same thing, but didn't feel like posting because I'm worried about spreading wrong information. I'm thinking as long as you use the correct wiring harness to match the ECU, you should be fine. The engine itself likely didn't change from 09-14. I don't think they ever fixed the oil consumption issue even in the later years right? If not, I'm thinking the engines are very likely to be the same.
If the engine is the only thing he is swapping. There really should be no problem. Maybe an updated sensor or two on the 2012 engine. So he would swap them with the ones from his damage engine.
Quick question to all. Is the 4 cylinder engine the only option we can swap into a 2009 TSX? Is V6 an option?
I need to address issue I am having with my engine with what seems to be a engine head issue, per dealership diagnostic after replacing chain & vtc actuator. In addition my TSX went into limp mode and engine light came on, addressed this by moving around coil pack between 3rd and 4th cylinder.
I am picking the swap over rebuilding the head, as the swap seems it will last longer than the rebuild.
I need to address issue I am having with my engine with what seems to be a engine head issue, per dealership diagnostic after replacing chain & vtc actuator. In addition my TSX went into limp mode and engine light came on, addressed this by moving around coil pack between 3rd and 4th cylinder.
I am picking the swap over rebuilding the head, as the swap seems it will last longer than the rebuild.
Well yes the TSX comes standard with a V6 trim in North America. With that being said however, it won't be an easy swap. Best bet is to compare the part numbers between an I4 TSX and a V6 TSX to see what you'll need. Without looking at the parts/diagram(s), I don't know if the V6 engine will drop right in. The cars may look the same on the outside, but things harder to see like motor mounts, subframe, etc. are probably not the same between the two cars.
FYI, the stock V6 TSX comes with the J35Z6.
FYI, the stock V6 TSX comes with the J35Z6.
Last edited by xtcnrice; Jul 27, 2015 at 05:37 AM.
One may also want to consider the resale aspect. A rebuilt head does not need to be reported upon resale while an engine swap does. It becomes even more complicated when you do a 4 to 6 swap.
While you don't think that you'll ever sell the car because you love it so much, anything but a direct swap (i.e. 2009 for a 2009) will cause you problems down the road making you want to dump the car immediately.
There are a couple of companies specializing in retrofitting different engines into cars. Even they don't always get it right. I can almost guarantee you that your project will fail.
Where did you get the statistics that an engine swap "lasts longer"? Any engine swap is only as good as the donor engine.
A co-worker swapped engines in his 911 because he was told that there would be imminent engine failure. The new (rebuilt) engine sucks oil to the tune of a quart every 500 miles or so. At this point he can't afford to sell it because he has too much invested and he can't afford to rebuild the engine so it is a garage queen.
While you don't think that you'll ever sell the car because you love it so much, anything but a direct swap (i.e. 2009 for a 2009) will cause you problems down the road making you want to dump the car immediately.
There are a couple of companies specializing in retrofitting different engines into cars. Even they don't always get it right. I can almost guarantee you that your project will fail.
Where did you get the statistics that an engine swap "lasts longer"? Any engine swap is only as good as the donor engine.
A co-worker swapped engines in his 911 because he was told that there would be imminent engine failure. The new (rebuilt) engine sucks oil to the tune of a quart every 500 miles or so. At this point he can't afford to sell it because he has too much invested and he can't afford to rebuild the engine so it is a garage queen.
I have severals issue going on with the engine. Engine oil is burning, continue to hear noise from engine randomly, this noise has been an indication engine oil is low. All codes related to a misfire have been cleared once I moved around a coil pack, but I suspect it will be back, finally dealer gave me the diagnosis that I will need to send the heads out for rebuild. The engine head rebuild will not address the other issues. Addressing all issues will probably cost more than just swapping in a low mileage engine.
Thanks all for your help.
I should have stated the engine swap seems it will last longer for my situation, or more along the lines it will make more fiscal sense.
I have severals issue going on with the engine. Engine oil is burning, continue to hear noise from engine randomly, this noise has been an indication engine oil is low. All codes related to a misfire have been cleared once I moved around a coil pack, but I suspect it will be back, finally dealer gave me the diagnosis that I will need to send the heads out for rebuild. The engine head rebuild will not address the other issues. Addressing all issues will probably cost more than just swapping in a low mileage engine.
Thanks all for your help.
I have severals issue going on with the engine. Engine oil is burning, continue to hear noise from engine randomly, this noise has been an indication engine oil is low. All codes related to a misfire have been cleared once I moved around a coil pack, but I suspect it will be back, finally dealer gave me the diagnosis that I will need to send the heads out for rebuild. The engine head rebuild will not address the other issues. Addressing all issues will probably cost more than just swapping in a low mileage engine.
Thanks all for your help.
Suggest an exact replacement engine.
Too many times just a change of year results in change of sensor type/location w/ resultant harness re-design. There are plenty of good used engines exactly like yours out there.
I did this exercise once and found that junk yards vary widely in how the remove/store engines. Some leave them in car, exposed to elements,.. and thieves. Others pull engines, set them on a pallet, and store in warehouse. That's what I went for. Due dilegence is necessary to see, inspect before buying. Ask for engine donor history and check w/ carfax, et al to attempt to verify engine history. I found it difficult/impossible to be sure since engine code numbers and not correlated w/ VIN's. However, some info is better than none. You can evaluate plausibility that engine is truly from stated donor VIN via carfax using car trim, history, etc.
good luck
Too many times just a change of year results in change of sensor type/location w/ resultant harness re-design. There are plenty of good used engines exactly like yours out there.
I did this exercise once and found that junk yards vary widely in how the remove/store engines. Some leave them in car, exposed to elements,.. and thieves. Others pull engines, set them on a pallet, and store in warehouse. That's what I went for. Due dilegence is necessary to see, inspect before buying. Ask for engine donor history and check w/ carfax, et al to attempt to verify engine history. I found it difficult/impossible to be sure since engine code numbers and not correlated w/ VIN's. However, some info is better than none. You can evaluate plausibility that engine is truly from stated donor VIN via carfax using car trim, history, etc.
good luck
Suggest an exact replacement engine.
Too many times just a change of year results in change of sensor type/location w/ resultant harness re-design. There are plenty of good used engines exactly like yours out there.
I did this exercise once and found that junk yards vary widely in how the remove/store engines. Some leave them in car, exposed to elements,.. and thieves. Others pull engines, set them on a pallet, and store in warehouse. That's what I went for. Due dilegence is necessary to see, inspect before buying. Ask for engine donor history and check w/ carfax, et al to attempt to verify engine history. I found it difficult/impossible to be sure since engine code numbers and not correlated w/ VIN's. However, some info is better than none. You can evaluate plausibility that engine is truly from stated donor VIN via carfax using car trim, history, etc.
good luck
Too many times just a change of year results in change of sensor type/location w/ resultant harness re-design. There are plenty of good used engines exactly like yours out there.
I did this exercise once and found that junk yards vary widely in how the remove/store engines. Some leave them in car, exposed to elements,.. and thieves. Others pull engines, set them on a pallet, and store in warehouse. That's what I went for. Due dilegence is necessary to see, inspect before buying. Ask for engine donor history and check w/ carfax, et al to attempt to verify engine history. I found it difficult/impossible to be sure since engine code numbers and not correlated w/ VIN's. However, some info is better than none. You can evaluate plausibility that engine is truly from stated donor VIN via carfax using car trim, history, etc.
good luck
I know this post was from a few months ago, but the mention of the VTC actuator rattle and a failed timing change worries me, I can't seem to get my dealer to anything about the rattle because everytime they have it it won't do it. But last time I started it and got the rattle it sounded like an engine starved for oil the rattle was extremely loud. I'm just curious as to what other peoples experience has been. Not sure what to do as its very hit or miss if the rattle will happen. But am I stretching the timing chain with every rattle start?? Thx.
Suggest starting a new thread on this subject, VTC actuator rattle. I looked at shop manual and don't see how the two (timing chain and VTC actuator) are directly linked. However low oil pressure (perhaps a reason for VTC actuator rattle) can also affect timing chain tension.
good luck
good luck
Just want to clear thing up here a bit, the exact wording on dealership document states ”No start as jumped timing chain due to chain stretch” not clear if related to VTC, but I remember the dealer rep. telling me this diagnostic initially.
Car starting acting up again two weeks back, car is parked now due to terrible idling, frequent limp mode, and CELs for misfires. Is it possible to determine bent valves without inspecting any internal engine components?
Dealer made the determination of bent valves on my car due to low compression reading.
Car starting acting up again two weeks back, car is parked now due to terrible idling, frequent limp mode, and CELs for misfires. Is it possible to determine bent valves without inspecting any internal engine components?
Dealer made the determination of bent valves on my car due to low compression reading.
It is possible w/ a Leak Down Compression test to determine whether air is escaping from valves (exhaust or intake) or cylinders (rings).
You could also remove the valve cover and examine valve/rocker arm gaps. A very large gap would indicate a bent valve not seating on valve seat.
good luck
You could also remove the valve cover and examine valve/rocker arm gaps. A very large gap would indicate a bent valve not seating on valve seat.
good luck
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