fuLLah

I am trying to add an amp to the trunk but have no idea what's the best routing of the amp wire from the battery to the trunk on this car.

I have a 2010 V6 Base model. I searched for a thread but didn't really find anything much besides people saying to use a line out converter to get the signal. There is not much about routing.

fuLLah

Bump!

MC MiYoung3269

Lol I subbed to this thread when you made it hoping to see some answers too...

I'm pretty sure it wouldn't be much different from the I4 people though.

araaadi

I have a sub installed on my v6, the wiring required a hole drilled in the firewall to get to the engine bay, and its just run through the side molding of the car.

fuLLah

FYI you don't need to drill any holes to get the amp wire into the cabin. On the passenger side of the fire wall there is a huge wire harness doing into the firewall. Make a hole in the gromet for this wire and use a coat hanger to fish the wire in. Youll have to push the coat hanger in the direction of the passenger side fender. The coat hanger will come out inside the car near the passenger side kick panel right above the blower motor. With a set of long needle pliers or even a hook made from another coat hanger you will be able to pull the coat hanger down.

Then go back under the hood and tape the amp wire to the other end of the hanger and pull the hanger through.

No drilling needed.

mercman

You have two locations you can use, but first, don’t cut the grommet, never do this. If you want to use the grommet then simply remove the layers of electrical tape applied at the factory. The pass a small wire thru from the engine side. Locate the small wire from the inside, tape it to your power wire, apply a small amount of petroleum jelly to the power wire and pull it into the engine compartment.

Second choice is just over the gas pedal there is a plastic plug, pop it out and use a firewall pass through (grommet or strain relief). Don’t just run the wire though the naked hole. All the holes in the fire wall must be sealed to keep out fumes and noise from the engine and air.
For my 1st gen I used the first method. For my 2nd gen I used the second method. I have posted pic of both.

Jeff

opboarding

Can you post the pictures in this thread? I am going to need to get a wire from the engine bay into the cabin pretty soon.

mellostack

u planing on putting a music system on your car?
if u want i can take some pictures and post it here

mercman

Post #23 here https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tsx-audio-bluetooth-electronics-navigation-304/installed-aftermarket-subs-amp-capacitor-812434/

The nice part is when I removed the system to turn the car in I picked up a ½ inch plastic plug from the HW store. No mess and the next guy did not have to deal with a hole in the FW.

Jeff

fuLLah

Just curious why you're against putting a hole in the grommet? It's the perfect size for the wire so it's nice and tightly sealed. Besides, on the factory wire harness going into the grommet there is wiggle room so it's not a completely air tight seal.

Anyway, that aside, where are you guys running your remote wire without having to take apart the radio face. I don't need it to be a separate switch I would like it to turn on when I turn the radio on because I have a separate knob controlling the volume for the bass from the amp.

Is there anything close to the trunk that has 12 v on ignition?

mellostack

dude i dont know what u trying to do.
u do know that the car comes with an OEM amp right?

mercman

Once you make a hole or cut the grommet it is forever.
The bellow part of the gourmet is where the rubber is the thinnest and is likely to continue ripping.
The wires can be cut when making the hole.
You really can’t seal it with electrical tape because the opening will never be round due to the bellow and tapper.
Hot under hood air and toxic fumes can enter the cabin with the poorly made hole

The correct way is to use the grommet as intended; the thicker part of the rubber will expand and can be sealed cleanly with tape just like the OEM does it.
You can remove the wire and put everything back to normal when you sell the car.
This is what it looks like before re-taping.
This is my 06 TSX
http://imageshack.us/a/img9/2282/1002447ov.jpg

fuLLah

I'm not trying to sound like a douchebag for saying this but doesn't air and possible fumes that are in the engine bay capable of coming into the cabin when you have the windows down? That kinda doesn't make sense to me. Also when you have the fresh air mode on the vents you're letting in fresh air from outside as well.

Honestly I don't think anyone has ever justified the cons of making a hole in the grommet with that reason lol. I dunno man I guess whatever works for the individual.

Again, don't take it the wrong way I'm not trying to be a dick but it's not something I'm really worried about. I drive a turbo car that pollutes the environment haha.

mercman

Any hole you make in the FW will allow under hood air to get in the cabin. Under hood air is cold in the winter, hot in the summer and sounds like a window is open on the highway. That is why the FW is sealed; do you think the OEM would spend the money to use the grommet in the first place if it wasn’t needed? Just look at every passage from the FW to the cabin, sealed up tight. If you open a hole and go for a drive you will hear engine and wind noise.
To run the power line, use the existing hole with a proper firewall bushing to seal it and protect the cable, or take a few minutes to run the cable through the factory grommet, it’s not that hard, is the right way to do it and you don’t destroy the factory grommet. Once you rip the grommet you can’t replace it and you will live with it.
I have a lot of experience with cars and car audio, take my advice and do it the right way. Anything else is bush league.
Jeff

fuLLah

do you guys know if it's possible to get a source for remote wire at the factory amp? I was able to locate constant 12 v (white wire) but did not seem to be able to find switched 12v at the amp harness but I might have to power probe the harness.

fuLLah

FYI you can get remote at the factory amp. It's the white wire with gray spots

iSeeYouTwo

For remote I just tapped into the wiper fuse at the drivers side fuse box using a wire tap. Works like a charm.

fuLLah

Yea I thought about that but I figured it much easier to get the remote right at the trunk. Less wire to run and I didn't want to run the risk of blowing a fuse I actually would need.

iSeeYouTwo

Did you have to cut any wires to tap into the rear sub remote?

fuLLah

No I didn't have to cut anything. I just spliced back some of the insulation on the white wire and tapped into it. I figured it a lot easier to run an 18" wire to the amp than a 8 foot wire all the way to the fuse box.

Americandream