Wheel hub replacement leaving the knuckle attached.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
Wheel hub replacement leaving the knuckle attached.
Using a slide hammer and wheel hub removal tool, can’t I grip it and remove it while the knuckle is still attached to the car? I’m getting the bearing pressed onto the wheel hub before I start the repair and then will use a wheel huh installer tool to press it in. Is there something I’m not seeing?
^
If you are referring to the front knuckle / hub, I had to take mine (CL-S6) to a shop and have the hub and bearing pressed out / in.
If you are referring to the rear knuckle / hub, I have yet to have a failed bearing there; however, the Helms does not really give any specific guidance on how to perform removal. Therefore, a slide hammer and wheel hub removal tool may be just what the doctor ordered.
It, the Helms, just gives a generic statement like: 'Remove the hub bearing unit (A) from the knuckle.' 
If you are referring to the front knuckle / hub, I had to take mine (CL-S6) to a shop and have the hub and bearing pressed out / in.
If you are referring to the rear knuckle / hub, I have yet to have a failed bearing there; however, the Helms does not really give any specific guidance on how to perform removal. Therefore, a slide hammer and wheel hub removal tool may be just what the doctor ordered.
It, the Helms, just gives a generic statement like: 'Remove the hub bearing unit (A) from the knuckle.' 
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,194
Likes: 331
From: Newport beach
Rear knuckle doesn't need any slide hammer to remove. the hub/bearing assembly is secured to a spindle via a nut that is slightly larger than the axle nut (I think it's 36mm?)
The front most definitely requires a press to remove and has to be done in 2 steps: remove the hub from the bearing (which destroys the inner race of the front wheel bearing, and then (after removing the retaining clip) remove the outer race/remaining bearing cage via a press.
The installation of the front wheel bearing/hub also requires the two to be installed separately because the hub is pressed into the knuckle, the retaining clip placed and then the hub pressed in a way that obstructs the retaining clip (so you couldn't assemble the two prior to mating with the knuckle.
The front most definitely requires a press to remove and has to be done in 2 steps: remove the hub from the bearing (which destroys the inner race of the front wheel bearing, and then (after removing the retaining clip) remove the outer race/remaining bearing cage via a press.
The installation of the front wheel bearing/hub also requires the two to be installed separately because the hub is pressed into the knuckle, the retaining clip placed and then the hub pressed in a way that obstructs the retaining clip (so you couldn't assemble the two prior to mating with the knuckle.
^
If the rear hub sounds as easy as you state above, then that helps explain the 'general' description in the Helms.
When the time arrives to replace the rear hub it should be cake to achieve.
If the rear hub sounds as easy as you state above, then that helps explain the 'general' description in the Helms.
When the time arrives to replace the rear hub it should be cake to achieve.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,194
Likes: 331
From: Newport beach
It certainly is, and I would suggest it if you're over 150K miles, replacing brakes, rotors or anything in the back to consider replacing. it's very easy and although I didn't think I needed to replace mine, there was a very noticeable improvement in the quietness of my ride at highway speeds.
Here's a video on an accord that matches my procedure on an 2G TL very closely, in fact they both use the same part.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post