Hello,
My Acura has about 105,000 miles (165k kilos). Most of things are fine after replacing the fuel tank, which was a PITA sort of job. CEL is still on unless erase it: P1457 (Evaporative Emissions Control System Leakage EVAP Canister System). I doubt it has something to do with hard-start when warm. I checked around. One of the culprits can be the fuel pressure regulator. It's sort of expensive: about $200. Not planning to keep the car long and reluctant to spend 200 bucks on the part. (I have another issue with my 95 Lexus LS400 that needs replacing the alternator; a rebuilt alternator only costs about 65 bucks).

The Acura is driving fine, either it's cold or warm, as long as it starts. No issues with acceleration; no issues with idling and so on. When it's warm/hot, it can start but the engine stalls almost right away; it happens once or twice out of 10 times.

It doesn't feel like an electric problems, definitely a fuel issue, correct? Btw, to keep it from stalling, I will have to floor the gas pedal while turning the ignition on, for a few times before it starts.

Ahy suggestions are welcome.

Thanks in advance.

 

Cheap thing to try out:
Pull out the "Main Relay" and re-flow the solder by melting it with a soldering iron and letting it stay liquid for a few seconds. This did the trick for me with the same issue you've described.
If you don't like scrappy DIY things like that and prefer to spend money, just buy a new Main Relay.

This relay controls some stuff for the fuel pump, and while it may not be the end-all solution, it worked for me after I dealt with that exact issue for a few years. Best of all, reflowing the solder is free if you already have an iron!

 

Thanks Arkady. So you don't think it's the problems with the fuel pressure regulator, do you? I found a thread that gives details about how to find it and fix it. I guess that's what you talked about.

https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-p...-relay-931252/

Thanks again.

 

It might be the fuel pressure regulator, but that's a much more expensive and much more involved replacement. I always like to start with the simpler options when I'm doing exploratory repairs
And yes it looks like that thread is exactly the process I was talking about.

Good luck with the fix! I hope that main relay does the trick for you.

 

ZJohnQ ..... I had the pretty much the same issue with my 99 TL. I spent months researching this forum, and mostly reading about the fuel pressure regulator, ..... BUT READ ON !!!
At one point, I was about to replace the FPR, but then my OBD offered up a code (forget which one) about the ECT sensor. (engine coolant temp sensor) .... I removed this sensor (very easy) and when I was working on it I noticed that it was dry as a bone ..... basically, this sensor screws into a water passage on top of your engine and tells your ECM the coolant temp.... if it is dry and your engine is hot because you have been out driving, it will send faulty signals to your ECM, (steam is hotter than hot water) thus causing start problems when the engine is hot. In other words, the sensor can send faulty HOT signals to the ECM when the engine is in fact at normal operating temperature. Here's why it can be dry .... If you have any air in your coolant "loop" that air can sometimes be present as a "pocket" near the top of the engine" right where this sensor is placed. As I read more about this, it all made sense .... some engines, because of the way they are engineered are very sensitive to air in the coolant loop. Obviously, any sensor measuring coolant temp, will be inaccurate unless it is actually immersed in coolant. My advice to you: starting with a cool engine on a level parking spot, top off your radiator, unplug, and remove the ECT sensor. If no water comes out when you unscrew the ECT, you have air in your coolant loop. Start the engine and let it idle and warm up ... when you start to see coolant coming out of the ECT boss, give it another 30 secs or steady out flow of coolant (no air) , then tighten it back into place. make sure you are also watching the coolant level at the radiator filler neck. There are other "air purge" methods that might be just as good, or better for this Honda J engine. After I did this, I went from having the problem frequently, to almost never ... I still may have a small amount of air in my coolant loop, so I plan to go back and revisit this step, to try to purge out any remaining air.
The beauty of this procedure .... it's easy, it's free, and I think a good chance it solves your problem. Good luck !