Hey guys having an issue when i did a seafoam treatment..!😔 I put 1/3 of the seafoam in the brake booster and i let it sit for about 20 mins then When i started it up it was very hard to hard took a couple cranks but when it started i floored it and was leavin trails of smoke behind but then my CEl light went on!! What can be the issue? Feedback please and thanks

 

Make sure you drive the car to get all the seafoam out of the engine, then shut the car off and Pull the clock backup fuse on the passenger side dash fuse panel for a min and then put it back in and restart the car.

 

ok and that will take off the cel light? why did it come on in the first place ? thanks feedback please

 

It probably came on from a o2 sensor misreading. Yes, it should remove the CEL.

 

ok thanks how long should i drive to get all the seafoam out

 

a few min. Odds are your drive to clear it out and your smoke show already did, but drive it long enough to get the engine up to temp.

 

Or a misfire CEL if the concentration was too high. Either way, it's nothing to worry about.

However, using SeaFoam through the brake booster is only feeds 3 cylinders IIRC. The proper way to do it is via the vac line connected to the TB.

 

Ill wait for 04tl4t to pipe in, he's the expert on this. However, you are supposed to use vacuum lines not brake booster. Also since I seafoamed my car and it wouldn't turn off or start for a while and it now has a weird idle i would suggest you try the gas tank next time.

 

you guys should take advantage of our diy section--the seafoam one that says --for 03s,,is really good --only the direction the vac nipple points and its exact location vary by year

we use not just any vac lione as the `3 cyl only prob` is very real
the correct vac port is at the TB and pulls 20+ inches suction-has a hose clamp too
enough vac to make tornados of seafoam~ as it goes in

go buy 2 more cans, 1 in half a tank of gas
and 1/2 in the vac port,
other half in oil 30 minutes before next change

dont floor it with seafoam heavily in system!! - the diy will explain all

the clock fuse is the secret backup power for ecu,, forces a master relearn and clears codes and lights

 

KS
ck your vac line is on secure-clamped, clean the TB air plate
ck airbox cover on right and no broken edges etc
any vac leaks?
motor mounts ok?--front and rear are vac boosted (most years)
any of those will cause hard start

 

I seafoamed my 03 tl-s (following the DIY for the 03 tls) and got no smoke. Does this mean my engine is clean? I didn't add the seafoam to my oil. Is that why? It also took me about 10 minutes to suck the seafoam up because I did it slow so it wouldnt stall. I think that it might have put it in too slow. I add complete system cleaner after I change my oil, could that have "cleaned" my engine enough to have no smoke from seafoaming? This was my first time seafoaming.

 

NO it just means there wasnt enough heat in the exhaust to cause the oil in seafoam to react and create smoke

Did you prewarm the engine with a good 15 minute drive?
10 minutes getting it in is excellent! that allows it time to work away layers and get in there really good
Then let it `cook` for 10-15minutes,,start and hold slightly above idle till it will rev to 2000
start driving in 1-2 gear and smoke will probably pour out
you may not see it in the mirror until it will rev cleanly to 4000 and you can do some hot foot runs,,make exhaust hot,,, then slow down and get on it several times for 5 minutes

do not do that until engine running smooth-- after inital excess seafoam in the combustion area is run thru
dont want backfire-popping-CEL etc

first time foamers should repeat vac port and gas method, or do gas twice at 1 can to 8 gallons, in 1000-2000 miles to complete the cleaning,,wont get it all the first time

After that, a can in gas with oil change wont hurt between annual /15K full seafoam treatment

my buddy with smog shop says a can or 2 of seafoam in gas yearly keeps the cat and O2 sensors in excellent working order

Note!! you MUST do gas tank method to get the injectors-rails-filter sock-tank-fuel pump clean

oil: has nothing to do with combustion/exhaust smoke
you can run half a can seafoam in oil for 200 miles before change if you want to really scrub the ports and passages

stop using an after oil change treatment

 

So it would be fine to seafoam again if it has been probably 1500 miles?

And what's wrong with after oil change fuel treatment? Same thing as adding seafoam is it not? Not being a dick, just curious.

 

fine to repeat seafoam after a week,, or 1-2000 miles,,just do it

I thought you were adding some `system cleaner` to OIL after its change
thats not good for the engine--doesnt like slick50 or other additives
VTEC runs off oil pressure and pressure changes, so anything but oil can screw with its operation

I run seafoam thru gas (also redline si-1 excellent product when used at MAX strength)
twice a year (at oil change time)

and seafoam in oil just before change, same thing,,once a year
If I drove more, or was harder on the oil, it would get foamed before every oil change!

too simple to do,, and as observed by fsttyms1 during his full engine teardown at 200kmiles,,keeps internals looking spotless,, factory new!

 

ok so i should wait about 1500-2000 miles before doing the seafoam again? also i put a bottle in the gas tank and 1/3 in the oil as well as the brake booster.. this other vacuum port you guys are talking about is where? I am a noobie anyone have pics of it or is it in the diy section of where to add the seafoam thanks guys

 

NONE in the brake booster!!
if you added to oil, change oil now

you can do the 2nd treatment after a week, or whenever is convenient
the idea being most of the crud was removed the 1st time,,now lets get that last bit then good for a year
run a can in 16 gallons gas-(just under full) midyear/7500 miles
as `maitenance dose` to keep the injectors etc clean

Your fuel dose now should be 2 oz seafoam per gallon of gas

the diy section has one that says Seafoam diy,,,specifically for 03s
its the best of several and talks you thru every step, plus pics
works for all years

When you remove the plastic engine cover you are looking at the master vac port!
its at the TB/manifold connection, a small black hose runs to it and a hose clamp you have to squeeze together to open- as hose is removed a metal nipple will be exposed,,thats the correct place and pulls 20 plus inches of vac at idle
On the outside of the TB air plate,,not pulling massive vac