My fuel guage doesn't seem to be as accurate as it used to be. When I turn on the car the guage reads lower than what it should be. After a minute or so, the needle goes up to where it should be (it never used to do this) I read some posts discussing a fuel sending unit, but no description on how to replace it.

Any thoughts on 1) whether this may be my problem, and 2) if so, how to replace it?

03 TL 102,000

thx

 

run a bottle of Redline SI1 fuel cleaner in 1/2 tank of gas, or seafoam at same rate
See if the slider is just dirty before assuming sendor unit--thats a works or not type failure

The smog stuff they put in all gas is bad- and really bad to the TL

 

your ready for the 105 service also- new spark plugs- timing belt water pump etc

03 check your VIN for the timing belt pulley recall- if it applies to you, you only pay a little extra for them to change the water pump and a few pullies- acura pays the rest of the job under recall

 

1-800-382-2238 x5 and http://owners.acura.com/registration...erstepone.aspx

 

Already done (in addition to replacing a few seals), and I'm not part of the recall. And I use seafoam regularly in the tank, so don't think that's the problem. Thx

 

you have to perform 2 different tests before you replace anything so you know what your replacing is going to fix the problem. perform the test on the fuel gauge to make sure its working properly and if it is then you have to perform a test on the sending unit. ill try posting the instructions for both tonight..

 

Thanks - whenever you get a chance to post, I'll try it out.

 

fuel gauge test
1.Check the No. 9 BACK UP LIGHT INSTRUMENT LIGHT (7.5 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box before testing.

2.Turn the ignition switch OFF.

3.Remove the spare tire lid.

4.Remove the access panel from the floor.

5.Disconnect the fuel pump 5P connector.

6.Measure voltage between fuel pump 5P connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2 with the ignition switch ON (II). There should be between 10 and 12.5 V.



If the voltage is as specified, go to step 7.

If the voltage is not as specified, check for:

- an open in the YEL/BLU or BLK wire.

- poor ground (G501).

7.Turn the ignition switch OFF.

8.Install a 2 W resistor between fuel pump 5P connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2.



9.Turn the ignition switch ON (II).

10.Check that the pointer of the fuel gauge indicates ''F''.

If the pointer of the fuel gauge does not indicate, replace the gauge.

If the gauge is OK, inspect the fuel gauge sending unit.

NOTE:

The pointer of the fuel gauge returns to the bottom on the gauge dial when the ignition switch is OFF regardless of the fuel level.


fuel sending unit test
1.Remove the spare tire lid.

2.Remove the access panel from the floor.

3.Turn the ignition switch OFF, then disconnect the fuel pump 5P connector.

4.Remove the fuel fill cap.

5.Relieve the fuel pressure.

6.Disconnect the quick-connect fittings from the fuel pump.

7.Remove the bolts (A) and the fuel tank unit (B).



8.Measure resistance between No. 1 and No. 2 terminals with the float at E (EMPTY), 1/2 (HALF FULL), and F (FULL) positions.

If you do not get the following readings, replace the fuel gauge sending unit (A).


Float Position Resistance (W)
E 105-107
1/2 29.5-32.5
F 3-5




9.Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new base gasket and new quick connect retainers, then check these items:

When connecting the wire harness, make sure the connection is secure and the terminal (B) is firmly locked into place.

Check that the tabs of the clamp (C) do not interfere with the wire harness.

Do not fold over the lower part of the mesh filter (D).

When installing the fuel gauge sending unit (A), make sure the connection is secure and the connector is firmly locked into place. Be careful not to bend or twist it excessively.



hope this helps you fix your problem. sorry im late posting tho.

 

Wow - thanks! Not sure when I'll get a chance to try this, but will definitely get to it soon. Several questions:

5.Relieve the fuel pressure. (under sending unit test) - how is that done?

Also:
9.Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new base gasket and new quick connect retainers, - How important is it to replace with a new base gasket and quick connect retainers??

Thanks again.

 

just remove the gas cap and it relieves the pressure in the tank.


to be safe i would only beacause its so cheap to replace those parts you dont wanna risk one of the quick release lines popping of and spraying fuel in the car. and the gasket for the sending unit hsould be replaced beacause you want a tight seal so there are no leaks because if there are you'll end up getting a p1456 or p1457 evap leak.

 

Thanks. I figured removing the cap relieved the pressure, but since there was a seperate direction for removing the cap and then one for relieving the pressure, I wasn't sure. Thanks again.