Hi! guys,
How are you?
1. Few month back I had 1, 2, 4 code and replaced #4 coil and replace all the spark plugs with ngk iridium and fixed the problem.
Now I have 3,5,6, 1399 & 1300. I tried to find the bad coil by moving new ones around again but can't fix the problem. Can it be more than 1 bad coil?
2. Can this be the problem? while sea foaming through the throttle body, I noticed the valve was open. Isn't it normally closed when not running? I pulled on the throttle body wires but it did nothing to the valve always open.
Any advises would be helpful!
I have 02 tl3.2-s with 18k and would like to drive it while longer cuz can't afford a new car at this time.
** actually its p0300 not p1300,

Best regards & always thankful to you guy!!!!

 

18k on the car doesn't sound right!

 

sorry!
I meant 180k.
And as far as TBV, I noticed there is 2nd one that is closed closer to the intake.

Thanks!

 

I started with one new coil and ended up with 3 new coils and still shaky car and now only p1399 code. What is p1399 code? It's not showing in my Acura Haynes repair manual.
I definitely don't think its coil. Checked the spark plugs too. Only 4 mo. old ngk iridium, but one spark plug was slightly little oily.
Any suggestions or should I head to dealers?

 

180K miles? Ever had the valves adjusted back to spec?

*edit - apparently p1399 is a random misfire - http://www.obd-codes.com/forums/view...php?f=2&t=1581

 

dont need dealer to fix this

lets go back to the throttle body--the big round air plate that blocks the flow opens with throttle cable movement
Where did you seafoam and how,,engine warm etc?

have you been resetting the ECU by removing the CLOCK fuse- located on passenger end of dash, for a minute and reinsert
That forces a master relearn and self testing of systems--learns new parts,(coil movement)
it clears codes too
Do that and see what happens

 

No,
I been driving without doin anything except above, oil change, tranny oil change every 30k. I didn't even do 105k maintenance. My thing is don't fix things that are not broken.

 

I removed the vent and did the spray sea foam. Car was cold I think. I don't think I did it right. I am going to do it one more time at the intake valve because I noticed a puddle under the car which meant all the foam went straight down not in. I am a fool.

I been resetting each time with my scanner. after 3 new coil, now i am only getting p1399 code on short drive, usually, in acceleration situation. I stop once the ecl flashes. I think, in order to get the coil #, I would have to drive longer. I didn't want a chance of ruining my engine. I still have sea foam in my gas tank, but I put a can of it with full tank as the direction specified, 1 oz. to gallon. According to you guys it should be 1 can to a 1/4 tank of gas. I am also going to try egr valve clean, I got gaskets today. If that fails maybe intake manifold clean and maybe after that injector clean, if it doesn't stop after 2 doses of seafoam. My engine stutters and rough idle, after gassing, it will go up no problem but drops down to 250rpm before going back to 750 with no ecl flash and moves between 750 to 500 during idle if I let the engine run. It is the exactly same symtom I had 4 month ago, but now it started with 3,4,5,6 1399, 0300. When I switched 3 & 4 coil with each other, surpringly it ran o.k. for about 30 miles, then problems again.
Thanks for the inputs!!!! Give me some more tips, guys!!!

So, I bought 2 more can to try again.

 

I drove it little longer, now its giving me 1, 3, 6, 0300 & 1399 code. After 3 new coils.
Am I missing something here?

 

I've read threads on here and on mdxers.org where random misfires were cured by getting the valves adjusted. It's recommended at 105K so you're almost twice that. They could be pretty far out of spec by now - surely far enough to cause problems.

I have no experience with random misfires myself but if you're not getting anywhere with the coils then I would get the valves done (or DIY) and make sure the EGR port and passages are nice and clean at the same time.

As for not doing the 105K service - timing belt and water pump - you're asking for trouble. You will eventually end up with a broken timing belt which could lead to a broken engine at the same time. Your call if you want to fix both ...

 

O.K. I conclude it's definitely not coil or spark plugs. I changed them around, even bought a spark plug/coil tester and checked all without any problem. I even cleaned out the egr valve & port, it wasn't clogged only carbon deposit. same symtom. I am running 1 can of sea foam on the 1/4 tank of gas still. will try 2nd can with another and that doesn't fix it then I should head to the dealer to maybe at least diagnosis the problem. Don't they have better diagnostic equipments? I wonder how much they will charge to just diagnose the problem? Due to economy now, alot of dealers don't have experience mechanics around, they only have newbies. I do want to mention 1 more thing though. Since last year, it didn't make that whishing sound when I opened the gas cap to fill, even on a hot summer day. I changed the cap but same thing. Maybe its time for a new car, who knows.... They repaired my tranny once, replaced it once when it blew up on the way to Las Vegas, and it's slipping again and no more warranty.
now you see why I only want to spend minimal money on the car.

 

Oh, one more thing, I noticed a very slight woosing of oil from the bolt & gromet from the valve cover. Valve cover gasket seems fine.

 

I had this same problem this weekend..

How I did it was, I let the car run and unplugged each coil plug one by one and see which one changed/didn't change the engine speed/rpm. The one that didn't change the engine rpm was the one that was bad.. In my case, it was coil #6.

Coil numbers are as follows:

1 2 3

4 5 6

Front of car

 

seafoam maitenance FUEL dose- every 3 or 6 months depending on how much you drive.
thats 1 can to 16 gallons, or just under a full tank

for fast results use 2 oz per gal- `cleaning strength` = 1 can to just under half tank of gas,,not the old info about can to 1/4 tank,,this is corrected info

More seafoam than that ratio doesnt clean any better- thats direct from seafoams tech guy--who clarified several points and methods we can use

for us: Use the master vac port, the metal tube that comes out of the manifold to TB connection area- exact location and direction it points varies-
but
after you remove the top plastic cover of the engine (4 small bolts)
you will see a black hose going to the TB- it has a clamp on it that you squeeze (with pliers) together- 2 tabs to open
Only one like it anywhere near the right place

When hose is removed a major air draw can be felt at the open end of the metal tube
20+ inches of vacuum--if engine stumbles during seafoam-place thumb over tube opening and it will smooth out--resume seafoam application at slower rate

Hold idle up slightly- as you apply the spray version= Deep Creep
or use a small plastic spray bottle and pour ~ 6-8 oz liquid seafoam in it
It will make a tornado as the straw tip gets near the vac port
sucks the seafoam right in!
Use 2000 rpm for a few minuts midway thru the process- it will make lots of smoke

engine warm from 15 minute freeway cruise is best
apply seafoam, turn engine off and let sit 10-15 minutes,,longer allows too much internal temp to be lost
spray the throttle return springs!!

put hose back on- CLAMP secured- engine cover on, wash hands,,
that should be about the right 10-15 minute `liquifying time` for the seafoam and carbon

startup- let it clear at above idle, then drive in 2nd low rpm until runs better then 4000 rpm until smoke clears behind you
do some runs up to vtec, make HEAT in engine and exhaust for 5-10 minutes
You are Done

 

I did all the above you guys mentioned and still same.
Any more suggestions?

Thanks for advises guys!!!!

 

Here is update.
I adjusted the valve. Changed the valve cover gasket (no more leak from bolt grommet. Changed 2 fuel injector which had half broken ring and cleaned all the injector, checked resistance all came same at around 130 ohm. Cleaned out the intake manifold(had lot of gunk built up) changed the gasket.
Still the same problem. Definitely time for a dealer diagnostics.

I don't see any more suggestions, so you guys must be out of it.
Thanks always guys!

 

Check the egr valve i would change it. I have same problem. Im waiting for the parts. I will give you an update. It could be an vacuum leak bad injector bad coil pack bad o2 sensors. You never know.