Hello everyone!

This morning as I attempted to start my 2003 TL S, the car would not start. Very odd problem. The interior dash lights came on but no turn to the engine..not even clicking nose to the starter.

I tried jumping it - no go. AAA came out and also tried jumping it with a jump box and tested the current, everything from that standpoint is fine. Battery is giving out full 12V and is charged. What is really problematic is that no power seems to be getting to the starter.

I checked some of the fuses - not all of them yet - but the ones I checked are fine - to the battery and the main fuse.

I do hear some type of clicking nose in the fuse and relay box located in the engine.

Any ideas??? Please help! Thanks!!

 

Dead starter ?

 

1 of 3 things.
battery, alternator and starter.

my money is on starter

 

The battery is good, I had it tested which would also mean the alternator is good.

The only reason I am doubting it is the starter is because when the AAA guy was here, he even said that it really seemed that no power was even getting to it. Typically, you hear clicking or at least a small amount of nose from the starter that lets you know that the power is actually getting there. There is absolutely no noise, not even a clicking noise.

The only very light clicking noise I am hearing is coming from the fuse box.

I wouldn't think a relay going bad would cause the entire car not to start, would it? The relays seem to be for other electronics...they don't seem to have anything to do with the starter, ignition coils, etc...

??

 

Update:
I just checked all the relay switches and they apparently are not the problem. I also checked just about all of the fuses, inside and out. Could be a bad ground somewhere...maybe even the starter....I will have it diagnosed hopefully within a few days...

 

Check power to the starter itself? there is a single cable going strictly into the starter from the +12 lead in the battery.. Perhaps it could be corroded?

 

Maybe...the cable seems ok but unless I take it apart I can't see if the connections are corroded. The AAA guy also looked at it and said it seemed to be ok.

Do you think spraying some WD40 (instead of taking it apart) around the connection points could help? Thanks!

 

I don't really think so.. As others and yourself mentioned its very rare that the Starter fails in both Motor and Solenoid.. Usually the motor craps out but the Solenoid still works and that's what make the "Clicks" we usually hear in a bad starter.

So the only real problem could be not power going into the Solenoid.. (There must be 2 cables in it, Main Power and Trigger our Starter is a Digital Starter (So it doesn't have a Ground terminal) differs from the Analog Starter from the old days which had 12v to Jumper trigger + ground terminal) Main power comes from the battery and the trigger comes from the ignition! If the trigger cable is loose or MIA it could be the issue why you don't even hear the Solenoid Click..

 

Take a close look at your ground cable where it bolts to the trans. That last 4" bare section is prone to corrosion. Other than that, it's probably your starter, although they usually click.

 

Just checked the connection from the battery to the starter - clean as a whistle. I did clean it with some spray and after cleaning it I actually did hear a very light "humm" for the first time...seemingly coming from the starter....so I'm guessing that could be it....thanks for your help!!

 

I just did that as well, cleaned it with some spray and it seemed to have helped the connection...but like you're guessing....I'm starting to think it's the starter.

On a side note, does anyone know what a reasonable price would be to replace the starter for both a new and used one and what would be a decent labor cost??

 

Ok, I just re-read your post and noticed that you said the main trigger comes from the ignition? hmmmm....that might be it as well....what does it look like and how can I access it??

 

Sounds like your starter. If you have a volt meter handy check and see if the battery is even at 12.5 volts or higher. Alternator has nothing to do with starting. Did it start when it was jumped?

 

Yeah, I'm starting to think it's the starter. AAA guy checked the battery and it's fine.

 

I don't have any pics of the starter but its pretty straight forward..

Look between the battery and the Coolant lines you should spot your trans housing and the starter on top of it.

If you can follow the cable from the battery into it.. Then just beside the main power there is the trigger cable very small in comparison! the trigger and main power are not jumped between each other or it will cause the starter to move..

So my advice is check with a volt-e-meter the trigger to ground! once your turn the key there must be a solid +12 volt reading on it! if not then your ignition key went havoc..

 

Ok, sounds good....thanks!!

 

Check for power at the starter. Possibly the ignition switch, tranny interlock or a relay is not allowing power to get to the starter ?
Try hitting the starter's solenoid......may be sticking.

If all else fails, pull the starter and have it bench tested at most any auto parts store.

 

Like 3.2Tlc says, try tapping on the starter while someone holds the key in the crank position. If it starts, you need a new starter. The best remans come right from honda, but I like bosch or denso as alternate choices. One problem with bench testing is that the jostling involved with removal is like tapping on the starter; sometimes they will test just fine for a while.

 

I had a similar issue with 2006Rl not wanting to start. Took it to Acura dealership today...they said the "Negative Battery Cable" was bad. ???
It turned over after I jumped it yesterday. Turned it over today, was hard to crank but finally got started. I've never heard of that; cost $749 for them to fix it. This is my first post.

 

On my way to Baltimore my negative battery cable came loose. Needless to say my car started acting all kinds of wacky. TCS and ABS lights came on, radio and gauges would randomly die. I turned it off when I finally got to the parking lot and it wouldn't turn on at all. Not even a light.

So yeah, a negative battery cable will do that to you.

 

My car wouldn't start, 2003 acura tl. I disconnected my amp power cable and it started right up. The cable was corroded . 28 days goes by, and it woukdnt start again. so today, I disconnected both terminals. the cables are corroded back a bit, so I stripped them and re landed. I am going to just buy new cables and the spray so the new ones wont corrode.

 

Holy Dead Thread...

 

Yeah, on occasion an older thread will restart.....no biggie if someone can help contribute to the original post and it's best overall resolution. This helps others who may be experiencing a similar issue later on.

One thing for sure is that going back and "searching" older threads is an invaluable source of information for newer folks wanting advice and tips on their aging TL's.

Most of the time, considering the car's age ....... nearly every possible issue has already been previously discussed and that info usually will be beneficial pertaining to whatever current problem that one may encounter. So, dig and search....but don't revive unless ya can further help.