Hi everybody, I figured since I got such fantastic help from you folks with my last problem I should see what you guys have to say about this one.

First off, the car is a 2003 TL-S.

While the key cylinder is in the off position the current draw from the battery is around .21 amps. This is the draw even 15 minutes after the last time the electronics of the car have been 'awakened', as I'm told this makes a difference in some cases.

Starting at the top:

I went to work with my multimeter and started at the battery and worked my way until I found that by unplugging the clock fuse in the passenger side of the dash that the draw went down to .02 amps, which im told is the range it is supposed to be in. Put the fuse back in and the draw settled at .18 amps, so it would seem that whatever problem there is through the clock fuse is drawing .16 amps.

At this point I felt there was nothing more I could do so I take the car to Acura. They spend 4 hours of time at $100/hr+tx to narrow it down to basically the same point. They tell me when they pull the passenger side multiplex that the draw goes away, even with the clock fuse in, so I guess that with all due respect I should appreciate that they went 1 step farther than me. However, its difficult respecting any shop that takes 4 hours to tell me that the piece on the other side of the clock fuse is where the problem is. Hardly seems like something that should take more than 1 hour considering I told them about all the testing I did, and the deal with the clock fuse. One would think that the mechanic would start at the clock fuse and start testing from there, in which case I dont see how it takes 4 hours, but I digress. Anyways, they tell me I either need a new multiplex or a new dash wiring package and that there are neither any guarantees or returns. Nice. So I order the multiplex reluctantly. It comes in and I speak with the parts manager who is kind enough to let me bring it back if it doesnt work.

I get ready to start working on my car, and check the amperage draw just to double check my base point. Unfortunately I'm puzzled when I notice that it's drawing .07 amps without the clock fuse instead of the .02 amps it was drawing before. Oh well, maybe the multiplex will fix things and this isnt something worth worrying about. You'll recall from a couple paragraphs ago that before I took it to Acura the car was drawing .18 amps. With the clock fuse in, the car is now drawing .21 amps. Yay. My problem is actually worse since I worked on it, and the only people who have touched it since are Acura. Perhaps a simple coincidence. Oh well, maybe the new multiplex will work. Put the new multiplex in. Draw is now .23 amps. Omfg...I'm less than happy now. Remembering that sometimes the electronics on these cars are active for up to 15 minutes after the last time they are awakened, I leave my multimeter hooked up and go upstairs for supper. Come back down about an hour later and its still .23 amps. Great.

So at this point Im thinking the Acura guys are gonna give me a hard time cause I installed it myself, so I leave all the panels out and the new multiplex in so I can prove to them anything I might have to. Luckily thats not the case, and the service manager gets involved. He looks at the car and we are in agreement that it's not the multiplex or damaged wires in the doors, which was his first assumption. All he's left with (and me too) is suggesting they spend more time diagnosing the problem until they figure it out. Now I dont know about you guys, but I'm an unemployed student and $100/hr is a ton of money from my perspective. I dont want these guys going forever to find god knows what expensive parts it needs, and turns out to be something I could have done myself.

If anyone out there has knowledge that might improve my situation, I would love to hear it. I would strongly prefer to handle this myself, as it seems that paying $440 at the dealership got me virtually nowhere, and if the parts department hadnt been so awesome then I would already be out $700 and no further ahead than before I took the car to them.

Here's to hoping

 

Did you buy this car new, or used ? Do you know if there's anything tapping into the clock circuitry ? Like a new stereo headunit, or extra alarm sensors ?

Sounds like something in the clock circuit, and/or something non-OEM attached to the clock circuit is drawing the extra current. To continue troubleshooting, you definitely need the factory electrical circuit diagrams.

 

You need to be specific. Are you talking about the 7.5 amp fuse in the ps side fuse box?if so that fuse powers all this...Climate control unit, Clock (Except Navigation), Driver’s, door and
passenger’s multiplex control unit, Driving position memory switch(’02-’03), Gauge assembly, Keyless receiver unit (’02-’03), PCM(VBU), Radiator fan control module (’02-’03), Security indicator. Based on that info and your draw my guess is that there is a mulitplex staying awake due to a faulty input. My first question is Does your security system work properly? This is a relatively easy one to figure out so dont sweat it. Electrical problems pre 04 are a walk in the park.

 

Bought it used about 2 years ago. I personally installed all the aftermarket audio/video components. Used a wiring harness adapter so the aftermarket head unit only has access to the same wires that were already running to the factory head unit. I also have a host of other stuff installed as well. There is a navigation package hooked to the head unit and a speed sensor wire for the cruise control, as well as the ebrake and foot brake. Also I have a blue tooth unit, an ipod adapter, sirius radio module and backup camera, but all those things hook up without using additional wires, except the backup camera. It taps into the reverse lights so that when the car is in reverse the backup camera image comes up automatically on my indash screen. Its a pretty sick setup. Its been installed in the car and working flawlessly for over a year. I have 9 years of installation experience and 5 years in sales.

However, I did not install the alarm/remote start, so I cant say anything about that.

I guess I'll try and talk the service department into letting me copy the factory electrical circuit diagrams.

 

Yes, I'm talking about the 7.5 amp fuse in the ps side fuse box.

No, my aftermarket security system does not currently work properly, and hasnt since a time before this problem began occuring. It's hard to pinpoint exactly how much earlier the security system stopped working, but it would be a matter of months or weeks. Really depends how long the battery kept a solid charge before starting to crap out. The security system used to work fine, but I think it lost some of its settings when the battery was disconnected while the car was at the autobody shop getting some cosmetic work done on the front bumper cover. It was while my car was at the autobody shop that my driver window began the problem I had in my other thread. They claimed it wasnt their fault and I could neither prove it was, nor would I really call the owner a liar because I've known him and done business with him for years, and he's done me all kinds of favours over time. He seems to run an honorable business.

So this is an easy thing to figure out? I hope you are right my friend, as that would be just awesome. If I actually figured this out before taking the car to Acura I wonder what the service manager would say, after making this problem sound like a tougher one than trying to figure out the origin of the universe

 

Ok maybe I exagerated on how tough the Acura service manager made it sound, but he made it sound very difficult anyways. Hey, I'm just trying to be fair.

Anyways, Racinghart, what would you recommend to me in terms of what my next course of action should be?

And by the way, I would like to sincerely thank both of you guys for replying so promptly. I appreciate the help so very much.

 

Does the factory security system still work?

 

Not sure. I'll find out.

 

I just checked the security system tonight, and as far as I can tell, it actually doesnt work.

I'll add a couple details so you can confirm I checked properly:

-I put my clock fuse back in so that the car should theoretically be able to operate normally. In other words, nothing missing.

-I seem to recall the car making a quiet noise or beep when the lock button on the remote is pressed for the second time, such as to confirm that yes the doors are locked and the security system is armed, so that u dont have to even look. It no longer does this.

-The security light beside the driver side lock post does not light up. I even pulled the door to double-check that it's indeed connected.

Other than that, the locks function normally (as long as the clock fuse is in - if it isnt, then they only work when the key is in the on position) and everything else on the car seemingly functions as per normal (except the driver window, but I think I need a new window controller - the black box in the driver door)


Is it possible that the faulty window controller (assuming that the black box in the driver door is the window controller) is causing the multiplex to stay awake?

Know of any totalled TL's that I might be able to buy parts from?