engine cranks but no start

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Old May 11, 2011 | 12:39 PM
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sturgeongeorge's Avatar
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engine cranks but no start

My 2000 Acura TL 3.2 drove fine the day before and never had any cel or weird engine problems before this happend. Try to start in the morning but will crank and but not fire up. Checked fuel pressure,spark, changed plugs but noticed the plugs are getting loaded with fuel. Found TSB 01-001 which requires the change of the ecm and fuel regulator and its a costly fix. I was told by an Acura tech that it can also be the tdc/crank sensor which sometimes dont show a fault code. Timing belt just replaced and main relay. I dont get any codes or cel any ideas?
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Old May 11, 2011 | 04:27 PM
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whew!! t belt replaced,,my first thought was it broke!!
but it still may have- look thru the access ports on back of cam covers
stranger things have happened than new belt failure, especially if a tensioner or idler/roller wasnt replaced with it
do you recall those being installed?

loaded plugs, coils not getting good spark,,bad ground wire?
dont hear about many failures of the parts you listed, hopefully its something small

how many miles on the car?
done the egr port system cleaning--needed ~75kmiles, not in the book
seafoam or other fuel system cleaner used?
DIY work, or shop takes care of the car?
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Old May 11, 2011 | 04:29 PM
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ck this section -problems--and the main gen2 TL section thread list,,there is a recent with similar title- cranks but wont start

dont recall the fix, but there are several good troubleshooting tips along the way,
relay replaced- what about master fuse, ignition fuse,
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Old May 11, 2011 | 04:32 PM
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you installed the correct ngk iridium or ngk platinum? ~8 dollars each

not some 2 buck chuck stuff the parts guy said were fine
those wont last but a few miles in the TL before the ignition eats them up
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Old May 11, 2011 | 05:00 PM
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BEFORE Anything:

Check that your Car is Getting your Key Signal (Faulty Chip Key) Will make the car Cranks but will Not Start PERSONAL EXPERIENCE.

When you put your Key In the Little Green Key in the Dash Should Light and Blink Twice then Go Off!
If it stays On your Key is Going South making your Car Stay "Inmobilized".


Believe Sounds Dumb but It has Happend me Before.
And NO Your Car Alarm will not go Off since you use your Key Fob to Unlock it!

Last edited by Skirmich; May 11, 2011 at 05:02 PM.
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Old May 12, 2011 | 11:46 AM
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My mechanic found the problem. Thanks for all the input. In ended being a faulty crank sensor behind the timing belt. Repalced the sensor and the car fired right up. I have 208k miles on this car and it still runs strong.
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Old May 12, 2011 | 06:00 PM
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any chance it was damaged in a recent timing belt job?
or tech found other reason for failure?,,
something for the rest of us to watch out for while diy timing belt?
or something dumb ie: pressure washed engine and...
or 208 and it lived a good life, may it rest in peace as you motor on stronger for the repairs~
What was the part and labor cost?
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Old May 13, 2011 | 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
any chance it was damaged in a recent timing belt job?
or tech found other reason for failure?,,
something for the rest of us to watch out for while diy timing belt?
or something dumb ie: pressure washed engine and...
or 208 and it lived a good life, may it rest in peace as you motor on stronger for the repairs~
What was the part and labor cost?
My water pump was leaking and it looks Like coolant/water was leaking right on that sensor. That's possibly the cause or 208k and it was it's time to fail. The timing belt was changed at 135k when I bought the vehicle so I was about to change Wp. And belt the weekend the sensor failed. I guess it failed at the perfect time. The sensor was 145.00 and my friends a tech. So no labor.
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Old May 13, 2011 | 06:08 PM
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doesnt that figure-- that some cheap person or lazy tech didnt replace the pump at timing belt time
you should do those together
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Old May 13, 2011 | 10:02 PM
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Still- another 73K mi. out of it is pretty good.

Was it 37501-P8F-A01 SENSOR, CRANK ? $82 online.
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Old May 14, 2011 | 01:47 AM
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well, ,,probably 60k good miles out of the pump-
then it began failing at the bearing seal and leaking thru a special port designed to tell you that!

If the pump had siezed = it would be the same as breaking the timing belt!!!

always have them replaced together wp and tbelt, plus any tensioner pullies or roller/idler pullies
If not, one small but critical part will cause 4 grand in damage to the engine
some months later
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Old May 14, 2011 | 06:35 PM
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Don't say that bec. didn't have all of mine replaced-
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Old May 16, 2011 | 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
doesnt that figure-- that some cheap person or lazy tech didnt replace the pump at timing belt time
you should do those together
the water pump,timing belt, pulleys,tensioners were all changed at the same time at 135k. Now at 208k thats not to bad of a life span for the water pump to go being that it was an aftermarket w/p. Aslo had all hoses,belts,t-stat,and spark plugs changed. Now im ready for the 300k milestone.
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Old May 16, 2011 | 11:33 AM
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I guess that acura wp really is a good unit--they outlast the 105 spec!
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Old Feb 25, 2016 | 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by sturgeongeorge
My mechanic found the problem. Thanks for all the input. In ended being a faulty crank sensor behind the timing belt. Repalced the sensor and the car fired right up. I have 208k miles on this car and it still runs strong.
...when your car had this problem did it have random misfires?
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