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Alright guys you've probably guessed what I'm about to type but I could use help on what to do next.
So I slide down to d4 (I drive in d4 around town to avoid d5 shudder). Anyways the check engine light is on and so I took it in for a free scan and turns out these codes were brought up
I've read that this is basically a death note but I still want to put miles on her she's not ready to be put down just yet!
So my next question is what are my options? A rebuild would be costly and the same problem will most likely occur in the future? What about the accord v6 trans swap? I've read a little on it but not too familiar.
If someone can inform me on what to do next that would be great! Thanks!
No.. The code you are looking for is the dreaded P0740
Yours sounds like something went south with the grounds, Check your trans ground to the battery.
Is that it?? That would be great news but I have a shuddering in 3->4 gear but I also have a bad front motor mount could that be my issue for the shuddering?? (Also 4th slightly slips sometimes)
Do a 3x3 drain/refill and let us know the condition of your fluid.
Is your shuddering intermittent or does it occur every time?
Mine shuddered from 1->2 before it gave up the ghost. Shuddering is not a good sign.
If your transmission dies then do not rebuild it. You can source an '06-'07 honda accord AV6 and replace yours with that, there are instructions here for your mechanic on how to do that, you should expect to pay around 700-800 for the trans and another 700 or so to get it put in.
I got ripped off on mine but I paid around $4,000 for my rebuild and the problem is that the transmission will eventually die again anyway.
Do a 3x3 drain/refill and let us know the condition of your fluid.
Is your shuddering intermittent or does it occur every time?
Mine shuddered from 1->2 before it gave up the ghost. Shuddering is not a good sign.
If your transmission dies then do not rebuild it. You can source an '06-'07 honda accord AV6 and replace yours with that, there are instructions here for your mechanic on how to do that, you should expect to pay around 700-800 for the trans and another 700 or so to get it put in.
I got ripped off on mine but I paid around $4,000 for my rebuild and the problem is that the transmission will eventually die again anyway.
Yeah everytim! Only when it's not warm it runs fine but once it's been warned up and ran about a mile it will shudder under light acceleration from 3->4. I did a drain fill about a month and a half ago and it seemed to run smoother than before but I will try the 3x3 in the near future before any major $$ gets dropped or parts bought. Thanks for the help!
a 3 ounce sample of the atf sent to blackstone labs for mass spectrograph reading will tell if the torque convertor is loaded with 3rd gear clutch particulate matter
Sounds like it from the description of trouble after its warm- when crud will be flung out onto the outlet flow screens of the TC = no power to trans
Yes front mount will cause its own shudder,,at least its easy to replace while trans is out!
I would not do a 3x3 right now- spend 20 bucks at blackstone instead and know facts on trans condition
Send note explaining how much fluid you changed, miles on it since etc
there is a form, and a phone call will get you all the info you cold want
It will help them knowing what dilution factor of new fluid to account for.
Did you use Honda dw-1 atf when you did the drain and refill before?
Something I learned a week ago is that Japanese transmissions are typically grounded to their frame (domestics are different). Meaning when you test the components you place one lead on a connector pin and the other negative lead on the body of the component.
So what that means is if your grounds on the transmission are not connected properly, you can have ALL KINDS of problems. So that is a good place to check. If your solenoids are chattering open and closed then that I assume would definitely cause a shudder. Which is SO bad for your transmission, get that fixed asap.
I disagree- before money is spent on a 3x3 worth of fluid, get a sample analyzed at blackstone labs- 25 bucks will tell you if this trans is ok or toast, read their site- fsttyms1 uses them for engine oil testing and drives 15kmiles between changes!! Blackstone Labs
Having mass spectrograph readings of your oil samples = You are a rockstar!
It may only need filter, new fluids and clean the solenoids or replace a few- they are external parts of the trans
Based on the mass spectrograph reading and a humans interpretive report- a proper informed consent/decision on how to proceed can be made.
Some guy on the internet thinks you have a tumor on your torque convertor ,,,is he right??! Think of oil sample as a 2nd opinion on surgery = from someone smarter than Dr. Autozone Codes~
PO740 CODE here. 4x4 Max life swap with new filter. Will be doing 5x5 drain/fill. 200 Miles after 4x4 drain/fill no PO740 Code, no more transmission shuddering . 310,000 MILES. Will update how long it lasts.
there is no need to do a 5th time fully changing the fluid
once the ugly stuff is gone, throw on a new filter for trans and go!
repeat the 3x3 in a month if you want
note the real 3x3 calls for 4 times, see your owner book- one time cold, then warm up drive then drain blahblahblah
Note: during 3x3 done per book method its 5 minutes MAX drive between drains- that's up and down thru the gears manually two or three times, below 35mph is all it takes.
use P N and R in the process, you are moving old fluid thru the system to the drain
if you suspect a lot of grunge and are trying to save a trans with hard shifting
but NOT excessive clutch slippage already = some like to add Seafoam trans tune or Motor Purr for trans and drive 100-200 miles.
Do a full correct (4)3x3 and new external filter
Either product will clean the solenoids and related parts as well as open the flow passages for the fluid for better shifting pressure
some ziners with 1-2 gear light shudder shift report a fix of that issue!
guy with trans shop said its their best `fix` on Honda trans including the TL = for their good customers!!
motor purr or seafoam in trans fluid- drive, and a week later do a full change of fluid and filter
Like a wonder drug, not a placebo
Wont fix the unfixable = worn out clutch, but will remove years of crud same as seafoam in fuel or oil does for us
there is no need to do a 5th time fully changing the fluid
once the ugly stuff is gone, throw on a new filter for trans and go!
repeat the 3x3 in a month if you want
note the real 3x3 calls for 4 times, see your owner book- one time cold, then warm up drive then drain blahblahblah
Note: during 3x3 done per book method its 5 minutes MAX drive between drains- that's up and down thru the gears manually two or three times, below 35mph is all it takes.
use P N and R in the process, you are moving old fluid thru the system to the drain
The reason I believe I should is because according to Valvoline, MAXLIFE has varnish reducing capabilities, so wouldn't the varnish need to be removed once whatever chemical inside the fluid has mixed with the stripped varnish?
Also, the car has 310,000 miles and was heavily neglected, the old fluid was brown and had obviously overheated.
there is no need to do a 5th time fully changing the fluid
once the ugly stuff is gone, throw on a new filter for trans and go!
repeat the 3x3 in a month if you want
note the real 3x3 calls for 4 times, see your owner book- one time cold, then warm up drive then drain blahblahblah
Note: during 3x3 done per book method its 5 minutes MAX drive between drains- that's up and down thru the gears manually two or three times, below 35mph is all it takes.
use P N and R in the process, you are moving old fluid thru the system to the drain
I did the 3x3,4x3 all on my lift with the cars wheels off the ground and manually shifting and letting cycle through each circuit for about ten minutes
I'm definitely in a minority here in that I really don't care for honda's trans fluids; z1 or the replacement dw1. Dw1 is synthetic blend with lower viscosity, designed primarily to improve fuel economy. There are several full synthetics that cost no more than honda's partial synthetic, that do a better job.
That said, I don't know if the max-life has a lot more detergent, but I've never seen fluid that dark after 4 changes. If it's not clear after another change, I'd be worried that the trans is producing the crud. If so, this is either wear, or slipping, and the eventual outcome won't be good.
At 300,000+ miles, if it quits tomorrow, you've already done extremely well.
the real problem with our trans was not fluid itself but a lack of cooling oil to the 3rd gear clutch pack stack
the redesigned trans in 05 has improved passages to that area - as seen in pics on here of both units opened up
also Hondas original belief that 50 or 100kmiles was fine between changes~
Now we know a partial of full change every year is good measure
On the 3x whatever 5 minutes is MAX time for running theu the gears- idea is to push fluid not mix old and new
I don't care abut graphs and percentage of old and new. only know what the book says for some reason!
In the air is fine for doing the shifting thru gears, not everyone has jackstands,
so I write for the general hand tools only type member
Those with more skills and tools can figure it from there!
If cleaning agents are what you want= then seafoam trans tune is your buddy!
Will knock the glaze right off those parts and clean the shift solenoids
if just changing fluid:
Make sure you remove and clean the shift solenoids/pressure switches external to trans as well as install a new screw-on external filter to go with all that new fluids cleaners!
If running a separate cleaner or heavy cleaner additives atf, plan on 2nd new filter soon, better a fresh one in 2 months than one filled with crud at the beginning of its life
I suggest resetting the codes and start fresh.
Looks like someone was disconnecting plugs with the key on or previous owner messing with it.
However I'd be worried about the P1739: 3rd clutch pressure circuit. Unless the wire is broken to the sensor then it would be an easy fix.
to acknowledge acurawhites post above- yes you can do the 3x3 with the car slightly off the ground on jack stands = that's an excellent method.
Some amount of skill with throttle control is required~
You only need to go thru each gear including PRN 2- 3 times up and down- that's moved fluid out and towards the drain from the TC, then do next drain and refill
Good note Erick- but where is the helpful diagram to find said wire?
Trash- what atf did you decide on? working to your satisfaction? blackstone it yet?
05-31-2015, 02:41 PM
