bgcleatus

I looked through the posts and didnt see the exact same issue that I am having. I started by checking that the fuses were good. I tried a cheap amazon ballast and igniter to no avail. I them swapped the headlights from right to left and still nothing. I checked the continuity on the drivers side and found no ground. I made a jumper wire to ground and got the headlights working for a short time then nothing. I pulled everything back off and swapped lights again. It worked this time but i think that I may have other issues. with my meter i also have continuity to ground on the hot lead. when i try to check the voltages with the light switch on the lights will only stay on for a few seconds then everything goes out signals included. I am likely to go to aftermarket ballasts and such once i have this issue sorted out. Any help will be appreciated

Jim2301

BGCleatus, You've have done a tonne of trouble shooting. But, in order to get help from the many experts that prowl this website it might be helpful if you clearly described the problem that you're trying to fix.

1) What is the problem?
2) What are the symptoms?
3) Does the problem happen all the time, or is it intermittant?
4) When did the issue first arise?
5) Have you done any modifications to your car that may have contributed/started the problem?

Provide these types of details, and you're likely to get as much help/advice as you can stand.

bgcleatus

The car does not appear to be modified. The problem presented as left low beam not working at all. Replaced bulb igniter and ballast with no result. Swapped the working side over still not working. Checked and found that there was no ground on drivers side and spliced in a ground and the light started working intermittently. No problems with passenger side.

Jon M

If there is continuity between the hot lead and ground it should short out after turning on the lights. Check the wiring harness for cuts etc. How long are the lights on before they go off? A second, a minute?

bgcleatus

On the drivers side it was showing some continuity but with higher ohms. i am guessing that could still be a short but not a dead short. It also does not appear to be blowing fuses. the light was staying on longer than a second but not sure how long. (i only drove it during the day to get it inspected). I had both light housings out of the car to test the voltages between the posts on the connectors. As soon as I get a voltage reading all of the lights die but will come back on when I turn them off then back on. I checked for cut wires but have not seen anything yet.

Jon M

Ok, not a short but diode ohm range to ground. Try disconnecting the power plugs from the lights and see if both plugs stay at ~12vdc. Then off, then connect one at a time and see if the 12v stays. Many (not all) of the cheap china aftermarket ballasts and ignitors are junk. I did replace one of mine recently but I didn't get the absolute cheapest I purchased both ignitor and ballast through Amazon from a company called GenXenon. They supposedly have a lifetime warranty. I do not expect them to be as long lasting as the OEMs but they are easy to replace so I went that way. Best to replace both ignitor and ballast at the same time as a bad one of either can blow the other half.

bgcleatus

I was checking the power leads that go to the ballasts. was trying to figure out what was different on the drivers side feed I have been unable to see how the voltage maintains because everything dies when I check it.

Jon M

So what I understand at the moment is that anything as a load on the drivers side light causes the power to the light connector to short out. If this is correct you need to back track. This will mean tracing back through the wiring from the headlight back. I would be disconnecting wire/wire harnesses As I go to find the where the voltage is dropped. There are immediate items to check, Ground connection (G401), relays, and the switch on the signal arm. You will need the manual. Do you have a copy?

bgcleatus

I do not have the manual. If anyone has the wiring diagram I think I can figure it out with that

Jon M

Here is a link to download a PDF of the manual https://www.dropbox.com/s/alzlpd489p...ANUAL.pdf?dl=0

bgcleatus

thanks working through the diagnostics will post with what I find

bgcleatus

I have been messing with the car today the only thing that I can find that doesnt make sense is the power feed to the left light (red/yellow). I am still showing some continuity to ground from that wire (with about 12 ohms). I have checked both relays and swapped them just in case. I am not seeing any issues from the hot lead on the high beam feed on that side. The only thing I can think that it might be would be a partial short on the drivers side. Would it be possible to feed everything from the right side through a additional relay and bypass the left side feed altogether.

Jon M

Would depend on the current draw. You could test the drivers side by disconnecting both sides and jump the right side to the left side to see if that allows the drivers side light to work. I don't know why you couldn't run a jumper wire from the battery to both light inputs (as long as you get the positive and negative correct). This would tell you if the problem has anything to do with the ballasts or ignitors.
12 ohms is very low, like a small solder bridge or single strand of a braided wire, even contaminated dirt across relay contacts. Unless there is a 10 ohm resistor inline 12 ohms is an odd measurement. I have seen fuses that visibly looked good yet measured 100K ohms so anything is possible.