Cruise control stopped working
07-08-2008, 11:30 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Cruise control stopped working
I noticed that my cruise control is not engaging anymore. As usual the Acura Dealership gave me the same answer " we don't know , gotta pay for some diagnostics ... ". Here's the deal : I press the set button , the light turns green on the dash ( " cruise control " ) and when I let go of the gas pedal the car just slows down , does not keep the speed ( sometimes even downshifts and the RPM's go up ). Point is : what can it be ? I don't think it's the buttons on the steering wheel ( light goes on ) , can I hope for a quick fix ? Does not bother me a lot , but can U guys help ? Thanks
07-09-2008, 01:32 AM
#2
Here are a few things to check first-
do ALL the brake lights work- even the center ones? every single bulb is working????
are you sure?? trust no one!!!!- let them push and hold the brake pedal with the key ON.
if the bulbs are all good and the pedal switch activated the brake lights,
Next:
Remove the plastic main engine cover, 4- 10mm head bolts- use a socket tool- not a wrench or pliers if possible, check the cruise control cable is routed and secured right next to the throttle cable- they are known to jump free of the spring return mechanism at the Throttle Body- you cant miss it-the big thing on the rear side of the big thing attached to the intake manifold
the cable going to back to the firewall and thru it to the gas pedal is the throttle cable. this is for gen2 cars. gen3 is a totally different setup
Clean and lube that spring mechanism - its important.--especially if cable jumped loose!!! Its got an securing `lock`- but can be defeated by grime and sticking
That happened about a month ago - I read on here about it.
At the cable to throttle mechanism area--- make sure the cables are held tight in the flat mount--- where the covered part stops and its bare cable to the mechanism-
a nut on each side of the mounting plate keeps the cable freeplay/slack adjustment set. Should be some resistance to finger push on cable, but not so tight its holding the throttle open so idle is higher than spec, thats bad.
Rotate the throttle assembly with one hand while slipping the ~1/4 inch metal cylinder that is the cable end~ push that end thru the hole from the open side and lay the cable in the track, apply spray grease to the area now that you see how it all works together.
When you rotate the assembly it rotates a metal `butterfly/TB Throttle Plate` Thats what needs to be spray cleaned with carb or tb cleaner spray - smog equip pumps oily mess up there for reburning, need to keep the plate clean for max performance and best fuel mileage.
SIDE-NOTE: IF you install a Thermoblock or P2R Throttle body Spacer- that moves the spacial relation of the cable stop nuts to the mechanism- on most cars its that way- its a small amount,,, but needs to be taken into consideration on assembly and adjusted properly. You will also need to trim the engine cover slighty right there too.
Back On Topic:
Start there and report back- Several things can make the cruise not work-for safety reasons- like a brake light switch not working would mean the cruise disconnect would not work- look under there for anything strange- dont remember if cruise uses brake switch or has its own switch attached right next to it
- thats a common failure part on any car, including our TL
Anyone know if there is a fuse or relay associated with this too?
do ALL the brake lights work- even the center ones? every single bulb is working????
are you sure?? trust no one!!!!- let them push and hold the brake pedal with the key ON.
if the bulbs are all good and the pedal switch activated the brake lights,
Next:
Remove the plastic main engine cover, 4- 10mm head bolts- use a socket tool- not a wrench or pliers if possible, check the cruise control cable is routed and secured right next to the throttle cable- they are known to jump free of the spring return mechanism at the Throttle Body- you cant miss it-the big thing on the rear side of the big thing attached to the intake manifold
the cable going to back to the firewall and thru it to the gas pedal is the throttle cable. this is for gen2 cars. gen3 is a totally different setup
Clean and lube that spring mechanism - its important.--especially if cable jumped loose!!! Its got an securing `lock`- but can be defeated by grime and sticking
That happened about a month ago - I read on here about it.
At the cable to throttle mechanism area--- make sure the cables are held tight in the flat mount--- where the covered part stops and its bare cable to the mechanism-
a nut on each side of the mounting plate keeps the cable freeplay/slack adjustment set. Should be some resistance to finger push on cable, but not so tight its holding the throttle open so idle is higher than spec, thats bad.
Rotate the throttle assembly with one hand while slipping the ~1/4 inch metal cylinder that is the cable end~ push that end thru the hole from the open side and lay the cable in the track, apply spray grease to the area now that you see how it all works together.
When you rotate the assembly it rotates a metal `butterfly/TB Throttle Plate` Thats what needs to be spray cleaned with carb or tb cleaner spray - smog equip pumps oily mess up there for reburning, need to keep the plate clean for max performance and best fuel mileage.
SIDE-NOTE: IF you install a Thermoblock or P2R Throttle body Spacer- that moves the spacial relation of the cable stop nuts to the mechanism- on most cars its that way- its a small amount,,, but needs to be taken into consideration on assembly and adjusted properly. You will also need to trim the engine cover slighty right there too.
Back On Topic:
Start there and report back- Several things can make the cruise not work-for safety reasons- like a brake light switch not working would mean the cruise disconnect would not work- look under there for anything strange- dont remember if cruise uses brake switch or has its own switch attached right next to it
- thats a common failure part on any car, including our TL
Anyone know if there is a fuse or relay associated with this too?
07-21-2008, 12:57 PM
#3
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
Here are a few things to check first-
do ALL the brake lights work- even the center ones? every single bulb is working????
are you sure?? trust no one!!!!- let them push and hold the brake pedal with the key ON.
if the bulbs are all good and the pedal switch activated the brake lights,
Next:
Remove the plastic main engine cover, 4- 10mm head bolts- use a socket tool- not a wrench or pliers if possible, check the cruise control cable is routed and secured right next to the throttle cable- they are known to jump free of the spring return mechanism at the Throttle Body- you cant miss it-the big thing on the rear side of the big thing attached to the intake manifold
the cable going to back to the firewall and thru it to the gas pedal is the throttle cable. this is for gen2 cars. gen3 is a totally different setup
Clean and lube that spring mechanism - its important.--especially if cable jumped loose!!! Its got an securing `lock`- but can be defeated by grime and sticking
That happened about a month ago - I read on here about it.
At the cable to throttle mechanism area--- make sure the cables are held tight in the flat mount--- where the covered part stops and its bare cable to the mechanism-
a nut on each side of the mounting plate keeps the cable freeplay/slack adjustment set. Should be some resistance to finger push on cable, but not so tight its holding the throttle open so idle is higher than spec, thats bad.
Rotate the throttle assembly with one hand while slipping the ~1/4 inch metal cylinder that is the cable end~ push that end thru the hole from the open side and lay the cable in the track, apply spray grease to the area now that you see how it all works together.
When you rotate the assembly it rotates a metal `butterfly/TB Throttle Plate` Thats what needs to be spray cleaned with carb or tb cleaner spray - smog equip pumps oily mess up there for reburning, need to keep the plate clean for max performance and best fuel mileage.
SIDE-NOTE: IF you install a Thermoblock or P2R Throttle body Spacer- that moves the spacial relation of the cable stop nuts to the mechanism- on most cars its that way- its a small amount,,, but needs to be taken into consideration on assembly and adjusted properly. You will also need to trim the engine cover slighty right there too.
Back On Topic:
Start there and report back- Several things can make the cruise not work-for safety reasons- like a brake light switch not working would mean the cruise disconnect would not work- look under there for anything strange- dont remember if cruise uses brake switch or has its own switch attached right next to it
- thats a common failure part on any car, including our TL
Anyone know if there is a fuse or relay associated with this too?
do ALL the brake lights work- even the center ones? every single bulb is working????
are you sure?? trust no one!!!!- let them push and hold the brake pedal with the key ON.
if the bulbs are all good and the pedal switch activated the brake lights,
Next:
Remove the plastic main engine cover, 4- 10mm head bolts- use a socket tool- not a wrench or pliers if possible, check the cruise control cable is routed and secured right next to the throttle cable- they are known to jump free of the spring return mechanism at the Throttle Body- you cant miss it-the big thing on the rear side of the big thing attached to the intake manifold
the cable going to back to the firewall and thru it to the gas pedal is the throttle cable. this is for gen2 cars. gen3 is a totally different setup
Clean and lube that spring mechanism - its important.--especially if cable jumped loose!!! Its got an securing `lock`- but can be defeated by grime and sticking
That happened about a month ago - I read on here about it.
At the cable to throttle mechanism area--- make sure the cables are held tight in the flat mount--- where the covered part stops and its bare cable to the mechanism-
a nut on each side of the mounting plate keeps the cable freeplay/slack adjustment set. Should be some resistance to finger push on cable, but not so tight its holding the throttle open so idle is higher than spec, thats bad.
Rotate the throttle assembly with one hand while slipping the ~1/4 inch metal cylinder that is the cable end~ push that end thru the hole from the open side and lay the cable in the track, apply spray grease to the area now that you see how it all works together.
When you rotate the assembly it rotates a metal `butterfly/TB Throttle Plate` Thats what needs to be spray cleaned with carb or tb cleaner spray - smog equip pumps oily mess up there for reburning, need to keep the plate clean for max performance and best fuel mileage.
SIDE-NOTE: IF you install a Thermoblock or P2R Throttle body Spacer- that moves the spacial relation of the cable stop nuts to the mechanism- on most cars its that way- its a small amount,,, but needs to be taken into consideration on assembly and adjusted properly. You will also need to trim the engine cover slighty right there too.
Back On Topic:
Start there and report back- Several things can make the cruise not work-for safety reasons- like a brake light switch not working would mean the cruise disconnect would not work- look under there for anything strange- dont remember if cruise uses brake switch or has its own switch attached right next to it
- thats a common failure part on any car, including our TL
Anyone know if there is a fuse or relay associated with this too?
02-27-2010, 02:56 PM
#4
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Cruise Control problem on Acura TL 2003 - fixed
I love the information sharing on the internet, and for the great folks on this forum! I just bought a used Acura TL 2003 and today was my first day to check it out fully. I noticed the cruise control would not work. The console button light did turn on, the cruise control indicator on the instrument panel did turn on, but the cruise control did not engage. Like others before me, I found the cable had jumped the track and was able to get it back on. Cruise control now works!!
A follow-on question though. The cable does not seem to be 'tight' on the rails, and I hope I'm not doing this procedure every 3-4 days. What are others experiencing re: this fix - does it last for at least a reasonable period of time, or should I just plan to leave the plastic shield off so I can fix this while on the road?
Thanks!
Terry
A follow-on question though. The cable does not seem to be 'tight' on the rails, and I hope I'm not doing this procedure every 3-4 days. What are others experiencing re: this fix - does it last for at least a reasonable period of time, or should I just plan to leave the plastic shield off so I can fix this while on the road?
Thanks!
Terry
02-27-2010, 05:28 PM
#5
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How to fix this permanently?
Well, my cruise is not working again and I'm guessing the cable popped out again. I'll have to see if there is a more permanent solution for my problem, or see if there is any downside of running my Acura TL without the plastic shield so I can pop this crazy cable back in place when it slips out.
This could get irritating very quickly...
Terry
This could get irritating very quickly...
Terry
02-28-2010, 05:23 PM
#7
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Terry, Odd you say the cable "jumped the track". The cable should be held on or into the black plastic cruise control cam by a lug attached to the end of the cable. That lug fits into holes on each side of the cam. What usually happens is the outer rim of the plastic cam breaks allowing the cable to jump out of the cam.
In this same forum IllinoisREI has posted his fix with pictures. The posting is "No Cruise Control".
I fixed mine "in place" with a small amount of two part epoxy and have not had a problem since. A very simple fix.
Might check out posting at: https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-problems-fixes-117/cruise-control-cam-repair-693745/
Hope this helps, Steve
In this same forum IllinoisREI has posted his fix with pictures. The posting is "No Cruise Control".
I fixed mine "in place" with a small amount of two part epoxy and have not had a problem since. A very simple fix.
Might check out posting at: https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-problems-fixes-117/cruise-control-cam-repair-693745/
Hope this helps, Steve
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03-02-2010, 12:04 PM
#8
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Yep, that was the problem!
Thanks for your comment, and yes I had seen the other post that described the problem, and a fix. I modified the fix a bit as I did not want to disassemble the throttle assembly, and instead, made a "T" out of spare ABS that would sit in the channel (long side of the "T"), and keep the plug in place (the short side of the "T".) This fix has been working fine and it's nice to have cruise control working. Now, if I can only figure out the console dim switch (which does not work - it's just one intensity) and the occasional passenger air bag disabled light coming on. Fun learning about this car!
04-09-2010, 07:01 AM
#10
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I had the same problem with mine. I ended up buying an Accord throttle body on ebay just for the plastic cam. Replaced it and been working great for over 2 years now. 
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