I was thinking of doing a coolant flush with garden hose for 5 minute since my coolant is really dirty.Water first and then after 5 minute than coolant type2. What are your thoughts.

 

I would think, once it is clean, flush it with a few gallons of distill water to flush out the tab water, then you are good to go. Is this going to be radiator and engine block flush?

 

Yeah i will be flushing the radiator,engine block. I wasn't sure if I should flush it with water or not first. Thanks for the reply. I want to get all the rust or nasty sentiment out. Do you think a coolant flush with just coolant type 2 will do? Or Flush it with water first than fill with coolant type 2.

 

drain the rad by its valve, and engine block via the hidden bolt on rear of engine
add tap water to rad and run until coolant out
run engine 5-15 minutes-
drain everything again
stick hose in rad and flush out

drain all- especially the block drain
add new coolant, premixed

it all is well,, there should be very little crud in the system..maybe some sand from the original casting...

Do pressure test the rad cap, or just replace it on general maitenance of old age.
correct pressure makes the system work better!!

 

I believe I asked this some time ago but don't recall an answer-
If you open the rad. drain and use a garden hose to input fresh water (engine running) for a period of time wouldn't that remove all the old coolant in the whole system, block included, provided you do so until clean water is coming out? Is the block drain at a low spot in the system the collects sediment- ?

 

it may drain faster than you can add, plus you need to run it until temp opens thermostat to move fluid out from all the passages there

Old school methods of the 60s would do that,,and a reverse flush kit..
BUT
the TL system should be fairly clean and only need fresh coolant and new rad cap to keep working several more years

the block drain is at the rear in a funky place- probably the low spot because many report sand from there when opened

 

Yeah,

I took my car to get a brake job which they did, but found out they dirty all my fluid brake,steering,coolant. Plus I had an axle leak which was never theere. I change my oil at acura and they did an inspection. I also felt my interior was hot when I drove my car and my power steering was making noise. Hard to find a place you can trust. Plus they took my splash shield and hood opener. That why I want to flush out the coolant with the water hose because I don't know what they did.

 

I usually disconnect the upper radiator hose and throw a longer hose on to reach a big 5 gal bucket on the ground.

Drain radiator, plug it back up, fill with distilled water (keep the radiator cap off).

Turn engine on and once the radiator level starts dropping, keep filling it with distilled water while at the same time monitoring your upper radiator hose runoff.

Once the runoff is clear water (or you simply run out of water), kill the engine.

3 or 4 gallons of distilled water usually did it.

 

twintt--Im trying to understand--they said the fluids were dirty? brake ps and coolant?

those are normal to change, ps every 3 years/60 and brake fluid every year, or two max- on our aging systems
coolant, the books says 7 years, but 5 years on replacement coolant- the additives go bad and turn acidic in an aluminum roadiator --not good!!
replace coolant every 4-5 years for safety

acuras free inspection is worth what you pay for it-nothing!!!
they may look for the easy fast money jobs but a low paid junior tech is doing the oil changes and may not be looking for certain things--like fluid condition

 

Yeah, they check all the fluids. After I got my brakes done at this local shop I notice that my vents in my car was hotter than normal. So I decided to do an oil change their it come with a free inspection and carwash. They also found a seal leak which wasn't their until after my brake job. I am hoping their no other problems because I love this car and the way it drives. Thanks for replying to me especially the tranny issues. I did a drain and fill in my 2k accord once and all of sudden my tranny die after 2 weeks. The only I worry about is the tranny.

 

its pretty hard to damage a seal on a brake job
which seal exactly was it?

Its possible it wasnt noticed or had just happened while driving--
or some lazy tech with few skills didnt look it over..dont trust the acura oil change kid either

the other fluid changes are due on time and miles..some time ago~

 

I finally did the coolant change and the coolant came out clear, so their was just water in their. I couldn't get the engine block bolt out so my question is. I refill the rad with coolant type 2 but could drain the engine block which still has water?

 

I answered this in your other thread
as long as you dont live in sub freezing temp- the slight dilution from 50/50 will be ok
OR
buy pure coolant thats says APPROVED FOR ACURA and use more coolant than water as you add- thats the easy fix
iirc the system holds 1.5-1.7 gal max? so a gallon of pure would be ok

there are cheap test gauges at parts store to determine actual percentage and protection temp limits of the coolant when done

Dont like the reading? after running to mix, drain a bit more from rad and top off with coolant.
problem solved!!

 

your right why didn't I think of that! thanks Bro now I just got ps and 3x3 to do.

 

your sure you want to do a 3x3?,,not start with a 3 one time? any shifting issues
current fluid condition
note buy 4 qts, takes 3.3

did you say the stuff the shop put in rad was just water??,
or you did your cleaning and were left with just water?

ps fluid change tip:
place cardboard under front wheels so they turn easier
its not a lot of stress on the system to run it empty- as acura calls for-
the reduced friction helps the person behind the wheel--who should slowly turn the wheel to full lock and back the other way as many times as needed to empty the rack of fluid- engine running in park at idle
refill- burp- turn a few times or run around the blobk- drain out all- refill, burp - done

turning wheels lock to lock slowly as/after filling will burp the system for you
Final level should be near full, but give it a touch of room, you can see how much that fluid moves around