I have a 99 TL and it has 94,xxx on it. I drove it to Pittsburgh from Lancaster which is about 4 hrs away. I stopped at a grocery store in Pitt and let it sit for about 20 minutes. Once i tried to start the car, it stalled right away. I tried it again and it did the samething. It finally started when I punched the car and revved it to about 3k and held it there steady for 4 seconds. I then drove it for about 5 more minutes and parked it at my bro's apt. I went out 1/2 hour later and it did the samething. I bought a new battery about 8 months ago. Also when i start the car it doesn't make a clicking sound so I don't think the alternator is shot. Any ideas? Fuel pump? Spark plug?

Please help!

 

I would think spark plugs if you arent hearing any click. I wouldn't think the starter either. You got any CEL light?

 

If it starts and immediately stalls it could be a couple of things:

1. Since it is a 99 model, do you know if it ever had the ignition switch recall performed? Make sure it has.

2. If it has, it could be the IACV not letting the engine have sufficient airflow.

There are other possibilities, but the spark plugs aren't it. If it were having sparkplug problems you would have a rough idle and a CEL with random misfires. Although at 94k miles, it is almost time to replace them anyway.

 

the cel is not on. I started it later that night and it works fine now. I dunno probably get the spark plugs replaced soon.

 

The spark plugs are not the culprit here. It won't hurt to replace them at 94k miles, but it will not solve that problem.

 

thanks for the feedback. The car is working fine now so I have no idea.

 

has it happenend before this or after this? it might have jsut been some bad gas clogging the fuel pump when th car sat for the 20 minutes.

 

Check your battery if it's well tighten .... A loose or dirty battery's pole might give you that symptom ....

 

If you took the turnpike, then it's the Curse Of The PA Turnpike

Either that or your car gave up because it got tired of the crappy roads here.

 

And to add to it maybe run some type of fuel system cleaner and maybe look into cleaning the TB.

 

Help!!! I have the same problem. Background: My 1999 Acura TL has 180K miles on it (spark plugs last changed at 120K-platinum). New Bosch remanufactured starter at 165K. I've had to replace 3 ignition coils in the past, when the car was throwing off all kinds of cylinder misfire codes and causing engine to run very roughly. Engine light is on-shows EGR flow and catalytic efficiency-not sure if this is related (some of these codes used to go on before, along with the cylinder misfires, which were fixed by the new igntion coil, though the catalytic code came on again soon after reset). Car starts right up in the morning with a cold engine. However, if I stop somewhere, it frequently (not all the time) will start, cough and die. It will do this several times until I rev it high with brake on, throw it into reverse, and then it shudders back, almost stalling and coughing and then i throw it into drive and it drives fine. doesn't stall at intersections while stopped. but if i turn off the engine, i'll have the same problem starting back up. I haven't checked the battery recently, but the last time, i replaced the clamp which had been corroded so i don't think i have a loose connection.

What exactly did you do to fix this?

 

Well i would start out with the reason your CEL is on. That light inst just a dummy light and because you think its running ok doesn't mean it is.
If your at all handy, here is the DIY on the EGR port cleaning
http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/B00-004.PDF

Try that and try resetting the ecu (By pulling the passenger side fuse panel, Clock Backup fuse) for a few min then it stick back in. It will reset the ECU. See if you still get the CEL. You may need a new cat as well.

There are many things that could be causing your car not to run right. Starting out with known problems are a good place to start.

 

Thanks for the feedback. I did clean the port last year when I was trouble-shooting what turned out to be bad ignition coils-didn't seem to be clogged though-had seen all the bulletins about the egr problem and washed it out. Just a pain to take everything off. I wasn't able to get the recall fix because my car had too many miles (bought it with 98K on it). However, it has had the other recall repairs done-ignition switch and one other one. It had failed NJ emissions last year because of the codes-had 12 or 13 codes-mostly the egr and every cylinder was misfiring because of the bad coil. I reset the codes after changing the coil and it passed-the inspectors ran it through manually, not sure if because the number of codes that were bad or if they could tell it had been reset, but all emmissions were within levels.

Do you know of any other things that might be causing this? It started right up this morning again and ran smoothly the entire 45 minute commute, like it always does. Will probably start right up again when I go home. Just seems to have a problem starting when something's warm. Any other areas that you can suggest?

 

It look like you ( egau) have a problem relay to heat .... Maybe your Idle Valve Control
is acting up .....change your radiator coolant and/or try to clean the IVC.
Remember IVC works base on the coolant temp....

 

clean your throttle body maybe.

 

I have the same problem. My car stalls only after driving the car for an extended period of time (when the engine is really warmed up). I have not been able to fix it yet and the dealer will be useless with this problem since it doesn't happen all the time.

Has anyone found a solution to this problem?

 

The car's starting problem when warm sort of went away, or at least became less frequent, so I didn't end up changing the coolant. I was waiting to change my ignition coils since the engine light was kicking up once in a while (had replaced 3 before), and had 2 in hand. However, I decided to get iridium plugs, but pep boys only had 4, not 6 so I was waiting for another 2 and a little break in the weather to be at least above freezing. Guess I waited too long.

Was about an hour away from home on a Friday night when I heard a noise and smelled something burning. Opened the hood and didn't see anything-thought a belt broke but nothing. Car still ran but was a little rough. Tried to make it home and it died at 3am. Had to get it towed home. Turns out the front center coil was burned 1/4 of the way and the spark plug pulled right out-threads were melted and the hole into the head now looks like an "O" with an underline under it-about the size of a flat head.

Called up pep boys and told them what happened-never have heard of a plug actually melting before. Said it would be $1200-$1400 to change the head. However, they said something else upstream must be bad to cause the coil to fail.
I'm thinking at this point to just put in another engine-old engine had 184k. I can get one for $450 from a junkyard w/52k on it. Assuming this is the right thing to do, are there any other things I should get replaced along with the engine-e.g. oxygen sensor?

 

wow, that's some story. good luck man!

 

Turned out that a fuse was blown and it's drivable, though a bit loud because only 5 cylinders are running. Going to just get another engine rather than fooling around with repairing it. Found a place called Leesvilleauto.com in Rahway, NJ that is selling me an engine w/relatively low miles (my old car had 184K)-this one is only 55K for $450. This guy Mike was pretty friendly and sent me pics of the wreck it was from-was hit from behind. In any case, turns out, they make delivery runs in my area and about 1/2 hour away, so I'm getting it shipped there free. Hope it works out ok.

 

Good luck with the replacement engine!

Are you going to install the engine yourself?

If not, did you get an estimate for the labor costs yet?

Bob

 

Hey i know this is an older post, but i hvae the same problem, but its all the time when the car is warm it happens for about a week and it stops for about a month. i replaced trans about 10k ago, spark plugs new and coils. it first happened when i went to tennessy, but i didnt think anything of it because it was a long drive and it stopped right away, but now its getting worse, and of course thie check engine light comes on. i fill up only premium and bp or shell or citgo. any suggestions?

Thnaks in advance

 

Did you check the codes to see what's happening? When I had the problem, it eventually got bad enough (again, it didn't happen all the time) that one time I was genuinely surprised that the engine didn't blow up-certainly sounded like it.

I got the replacement engine put in and it works fine-guy installed it for less than $1K-others wanted $1500-$1600 to put it in. I did order a new timing belt (repl. engine had 52K-though it turns out the belt still looked new) and pulley just in case-much easier to replace when engine was out.

My engine light still comes on-for catalytic efficiency, though sometimes it goes off by itself. People tell me I should replace the oxygen sensor, but I don't know which one yet. Maybe cat could be going too. Ordered a scanner off ebay that supposedly reads "live" data and supposedly also shows codes that might show problems but not throw the check engine light, so I'll see what happens. So far, the engine starts up right away, but we'll see.

As far as your problem goes, it still is a big mystery to me as to what was causing it.

 

i have 93k miles on it, and i changed all belts, and i have no idea what is cousing the problem, but i still didn't do the ignition recall, im gonna call the dealer today, and ill probably get the codes today too.

 

He should check the codes for free when you get the ignition recall done. If not, you're better off buying a code scanner off ebay ($60 +shipping) for a OBD-II scanner or $99+ shipping for one that will support OBD-II plus the new CAN-bus standard. From my experience, it will come in handy quite a bit.

 

well here are the codes, i dont know where they came from:

Misfire cylinder 1-6
Manufacturer Control. Auxilary Inputs. Auxilary Outputs (p1676)
Random/Multiple Cylinder misfire detected (p0300)
Manufacturer Control. Ignition system or misfire (p1399)

If anyone knows what can i do let me know plz

thanks again

 

well im goig on tuesdays to the dealer to take care of the recall or at least they will look at it. we will see what they say. but if you have any ideas what those codes mean let me know. today my ABS and TCS lights went on, meaning none of those work. i have no clue whats going on with my car at this point.

 

I'd recommend googling the trouble codes to see what you find or looking throughout acurazine.

Here's a link to a directory that has a number of error codes and possible symptoms:

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/generic/

 

went to the dealer, they told me i don't have an ignition recall, but i did the seafoam, that stuff is amazing, my car stopped idoling rough, and the pick up is faster. i will do it again before i cange my oil and ill add some to the crankshaft. but it makes a huge difference. GOOD STUFF

 

The problem your having is called "Heatsoak" Google "acura 3.2 tl heatsoak", and it'll give u the info on it.

 

Thanks a lot for the info, I will try it out, we might be getting somewhere. but does anyone know where the heat sensors are in 2000 TL? Pictures would be great
Thanks again

 

Sorry. Its actually called "hotsoak", not "heatsoak". A friend of mine had the job done at the Acura Dealership. They had to replace his ECU, and fuel pressure regulator.

 

so i finally got a hold of my friend whos a mechanic, and asked him what could be the problem, with the trouble starting issue, he said that one of our friends had a similar problem with his saturn and he checked the codes and engine temp and the comp showed that its -50 degrees when the engine was hot, they changed the Auxiliary Fan Switch (sensor) and problem solved. i will try to do that soon, and see if it works, its about $30 so if that fixes the problem, that would be awesome, and as i recell i did have a code about Auxiliary output/input. and if you gyus do it before me, let me know. Thanks

 

Wow, seems like the number of people with the same problem increased!!! I spoke with a friend of mine (a mechanic) and he said Honda and Acura cars do have this problem like someone else mentioned.

To be more specific, if you turned off the engine, and turn it on in less than 5-10 mins, or roughly more than 40 mins, you should be fine. But if you turn off and turn on the engine after 10 mins, and before 40 mins, it'll start, and then die. And like many others have said, you have to rev it to keep it alive. There are multiple engine codes, lots of cylinder misfires just like others have mentioned.

Ima try all the method mentioned by others to fix this stupid problem!! Ima change the oxygen sensors to see if it goes away. If not, then I guess I'll have to do the extra cleaning.

DON'T change the Idle Control. It was dirty, but not the problem. I paid the dealer $450 to replace it and still can't solve the problem. Just clean it yourself.

 

mine doesn't do that anymore, i just unplugger the Auxiliary Fan Switch (sensor) cleaned it a little, and its good for now, we will see in the future

 

ive had this happen to me before. i dont know what the problem is! how can i resolve this? what do i need to change/clean tia

 

Where is the Auxiliary Fan Switch? Do you have a picture? I'd like to try that too. Thanks alot!

I'm trying to find out too