brake problem

Old Aug 1, 2013 | 11:55 AM
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brake problem

My 2000 tl just started having problems with the breaks, they go all the way to the floor, i checked the break fluid and its full, so it can't be a leak, and the brake light doesnt come on. I think its the master cylinder, but before i buy it i want to see if other people think thats what it is to.
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Old Aug 1, 2013 | 02:18 PM
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Main Seal could be gone... Time to replace master cyl.
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Old Aug 1, 2013 | 02:58 PM
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Master cylinder is my first guess.
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Old Aug 1, 2013 | 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Skirmich
Main Seal could be gone... Time to replace master cyl.
Yeah, thats what i was afraid of, looks like thats what im going to be buying soon, lets hope nothing else goes wrong with my car in the mean time.
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Old Aug 2, 2013 | 09:32 AM
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Was any brake work done recently which may have opened up the system and possibly permitting air within ?

If so, or unsure....try the bleeding sequence :
Starting at driver front, then clockwise to passenger front, passenger rear, and finally driver rear.
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Old Aug 2, 2013 | 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by 3.2TLc
Was any brake work done recently which may have opened up the system and possibly permitting air within ?

If so, or unsure....try the bleeding sequence :
Starting at driver front, then clockwise to passenger front, passenger rear, and finally driver rear.
I did front brake pads a few weeks ago but it was fine up until about a few days ago
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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by 3.2TLc
Was any brake work done recently which may have opened up the system and possibly permitting air within ?

If so, or unsure....try the bleeding sequence :
Starting at driver front, then clockwise to passenger front, passenger rear, and finally driver rear.
Went to bleed my brakes to make sure it was the master cylinder, found out i need new calipers now, this car is starting to give me alot of headaches, should i just replace them all since i need one for the rear and one for the front, or can i get away with just replacing the two?
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Old Aug 6, 2013 | 06:58 AM
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If you're planning on hanging on to the car for awhile and don't want any more brake issues down the road.....do them all when ya have the tools out. You could attempt to rebuild the calipers if they are not in too bad of shape. Reconditioned calipers don't really cost alot, about $50-$75 apiece. Think about doing an upgrade to the fronts for better performance.
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Old Aug 6, 2013 | 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by 3.2TLc
If you're planning on hanging on to the car for awhile and don't want any more brake issues down the road.....do them all when ya have the tools out. You could attempt to rebuild the calipers if they are not in too bad of shape. Reconditioned calipers don't really cost alot, about $50-$75 apiece. Think about doing an upgrade to the fronts for better performance.
They won't cost me too much as i get 20% off at autozone so i was thinking of just doing them all cause i plan on using the car till it dies, i figured i'd throw ceramic brake pads on it as well.
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Old Aug 6, 2013 | 09:09 PM
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Master cylinder. My mom had the same problem in her '95 accord, and my sister had that problem in her '01 accord. My pedal occasionally sinks in from time to time, so mine is starting to go as well.
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Old Aug 6, 2013 | 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by 3.2TLc
If you're planning on hanging on to the car for awhile and don't want any more brake issues down the road.....do them all when ya have the tools out. You could attempt to rebuild the calipers if they are not in too bad of shape. Reconditioned calipers don't really cost alot, about $50-$75 apiece. Think about doing an upgrade to the fronts for better performance.
I looked it up at work today, and i can get the calipers and ceramic pads for $255.93 any place other then autozone you think that would have better prices? Just looking for the best deal for price and quality before i get them.
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Old Aug 6, 2013 | 09:21 PM
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Don't get Autozone Pads if you drive somewhat spirited...

EBCs, Akebono, Stoptech, Etc. Any other brand that isn't generic will work wonders on our TL
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Old Aug 6, 2013 | 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Skirmich
Don't get Autozone Pads if you drive somewhat spirited...

EBCs, Akebono, Stoptech, Etc. Any other brand that isn't generic will work wonders on our TL
Lol, only reason im considering them is because i get 20% off and i have heared that their ceramic pads arent to bad, i dont want to spend a whole lot because i dont mind doing brakes when they need to be, besides i get lifetime warranty on them. But ill defiantly look at the ones you suggested. TBH i dont even need pads ATM, but figured since the tires and calipers were gonna be off mine as well replace the pads.
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Old Aug 7, 2013 | 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Jmpx55x
Yeah, thats what i was afraid of, looks like thats what im going to be buying soon, lets hope nothing else goes wrong with my car in the mean time.
Please park that car and don't drive it anywhere until it gets repaired. As the old mechanic said "The only thing worse than a car that won't start is a car that won't stop".
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Old Aug 7, 2013 | 04:18 PM
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I have had nothing but good luck with Hawk HPS pads.
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Old Aug 7, 2013 | 04:32 PM
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calipers and pads....

Originally Posted by Jmpx55x
i dont want to spend a whole lot because i dont mind doing brakes when they need to be, besides i get lifetime warranty on them.
Yeah, if ya get a discount and do normal driving, go for it. Keep the warranty receipt slips. Make sure that your rotors, hoses, and hardware are good when doing the complete brake job.
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Old Aug 13, 2013 | 08:39 PM
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I would guess master cylinder.
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Old Aug 13, 2013 | 11:17 PM
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The pedal going to the floor sounds like the master cylinder if there are no leaks. What happened to the calipers that they need to be replaced? You should really flush and replace the brake fluid when you do all of this and inspect the flexible brake lines as well.
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Old Aug 15, 2013 | 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by 03 tls nc
The pedal going to the floor sounds like the master cylinder if there are no leaks. What happened to the calipers that they need to be replaced? You should really flush and replace the brake fluid when you do all of this and inspect the flexible brake lines as well.
They wouldnt open all the way they were catching on the rotors, but now i have no idea what the issue is because i went to bleed them too see if that would fix it, and no fluid is going to the front drivers wheel and the rear passenger wheel, also found out a need a new upper ball joint, and of course its pressed -_-
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Old Aug 16, 2013 | 12:27 PM
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Brake proportioning valve issue?
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Old Aug 17, 2013 | 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by B.TL
Brake proportioning valve issue?
Ended up being the master cylinder.
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Old Nov 7, 2013 | 10:15 AM
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how much it cost for the master cylinder?
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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 11:27 PM
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you can look that up on autozone.com or similar site

note special bleed order for the TL is LF driver front, then clockwise around the car
LF RF RR LR
yes its very important!!

if the lines were off- like for caliper replacement
do 2 ABS active stops from 45mph
if pedal was firmer 2nd time there was trapped air in abs
rebleed all 4 wheels and it will be ok

brake fluid needs to be flushed every 3 years MAX and many of our cars have 10 years on it~
every year is best
failure to do it allows moisture to get inside and ends up in the calipers
rotting away the smooth bore and sealing ability
wikipedia hygroscopic for more info
DOT4 fluid is for us
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