Brake?
#1
RickRoush03
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Brake?
Ok,
I put on new peformance friction pads all the way around, put on new plain jane rotors all the way around. bled the whole system like its been said on here, LF, RF, RR, LR. Didn't break any of the seals on the lines so no air got in to begin with, and no bubbles came out, just dirty old fluid. Bedded them in also. Pedal with the car off pumps up hard, but when driving, it goes about half way down and then starts braking. I really have to push on it more than i would think to stop. I didn't see any bleeder screws on the M/C. Any options, keep bleeding? Bleed FL, RR, then RF, LR? car has 118k on the clock, maybe there is an adjustment needed?
I put on new peformance friction pads all the way around, put on new plain jane rotors all the way around. bled the whole system like its been said on here, LF, RF, RR, LR. Didn't break any of the seals on the lines so no air got in to begin with, and no bubbles came out, just dirty old fluid. Bedded them in also. Pedal with the car off pumps up hard, but when driving, it goes about half way down and then starts braking. I really have to push on it more than i would think to stop. I didn't see any bleeder screws on the M/C. Any options, keep bleeding? Bleed FL, RR, then RF, LR? car has 118k on the clock, maybe there is an adjustment needed?
#2
Senior Moderator
Well for starters you shouldnt have bed them in for atleast 300-500 miles. most all manufacturers want you to take it easy on them for a few hendred to break in properly.
It may be the pad thats not biting properly causing the spongy feel.
when you changed the pads did you open the bleeder then push the caliper in to expell any fluid from the piston.?
It may be the pad thats not biting properly causing the spongy feel.
when you changed the pads did you open the bleeder then push the caliper in to expell any fluid from the piston.?
#3
RickRoush03
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i had a kinda low pedal to begin with and some said the rear pads may be gone, so that was part of why i did this. no, i didn't open the bleeder screw, there wasn't much of the piston to push back in since the fronts looked newer than the rears, but it didn't take much on any caliper. i have always bedded my brakes after inital install, maybe thats not right on acura's? needless to say, it was still a low pedal as i have now before the bed in.
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Originally Posted by RickRoush03
Ok,
I put on new peformance friction pads all the way around, put on new plain jane rotors all the way around. bled the whole system like its been said on here, LF, RF, RR, LR. Didn't break any of the seals on the lines so no air got in to begin with, and no bubbles came out, just dirty old fluid. Bedded them in also. Pedal with the car off pumps up hard, but when driving, it goes about half way down and then starts braking. I really have to push on it more than i would think to stop. I didn't see any bleeder screws on the M/C. Any options, keep bleeding? Bleed FL, RR, then RF, LR? car has 118k on the clock, maybe there is an adjustment needed?
I put on new peformance friction pads all the way around, put on new plain jane rotors all the way around. bled the whole system like its been said on here, LF, RF, RR, LR. Didn't break any of the seals on the lines so no air got in to begin with, and no bubbles came out, just dirty old fluid. Bedded them in also. Pedal with the car off pumps up hard, but when driving, it goes about half way down and then starts braking. I really have to push on it more than i would think to stop. I didn't see any bleeder screws on the M/C. Any options, keep bleeding? Bleed FL, RR, then RF, LR? car has 118k on the clock, maybe there is an adjustment needed?
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#8
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by Hokie D
I have those pads on my Stang. I hate them. I imagine these pads might be ok if you used them for track duty, but normal street driving they're not good for me. I'm going with Hawk pads for my Acura when the time comes for new brakes.
#9
RickRoush03
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i appreciate it guys, but these are named performance firction pads, but nothing race oriented about them, they are the standard road pads, i know about race pads and needing heat. but what i am saying is the pedal travel is the same as before the brake job, it goes down, and then you feel the resistance for braking. so if i need to adjust the brake whatever, where is this adjustment?
on a side note Hokie D - if you want some bad ass street brakes get the hawk street plus, they are noisey and let off a ton of dust and eat rotors like bubble gum, but stop awesome, or the reg hps are good also, less noise and dust.
on a side note Hokie D - if you want some bad ass street brakes get the hawk street plus, they are noisey and let off a ton of dust and eat rotors like bubble gum, but stop awesome, or the reg hps are good also, less noise and dust.
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Originally Posted by RickRoush03
i appreciate it guys, but these are named performance firction pads, but nothing race oriented about them, they are the standard road pads, i know about race pads and needing heat. but what i am saying is the pedal travel is the same as before the brake job, it goes down, and then you feel the resistance for braking. so if i need to adjust the brake whatever, where is this adjustment?
on a side note Hokie D - if you want some bad ass street brakes get the hawk street plus, they are noisey and let off a ton of dust and eat rotors like bubble gum, but stop awesome, or the reg hps are good also, less noise and dust.
on a side note Hokie D - if you want some bad ass street brakes get the hawk street plus, they are noisey and let off a ton of dust and eat rotors like bubble gum, but stop awesome, or the reg hps are good also, less noise and dust.
#11
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by RickRoush03
i appreciate it guys, but these are named performance firction pads, but nothing race oriented about them, they are the standard road pads, i know about race pads and needing heat. but what i am saying is the pedal travel is the same as before the brake job, it goes down, and then you feel the resistance for braking. so if i need to adjust the brake whatever, where is this adjustment?
on a side note Hokie D - if you want some bad ass street brakes get the hawk street plus, they are noisey and let off a ton of dust and eat rotors like bubble gum, but stop awesome, or the reg hps are good also, less noise and dust.
on a side note Hokie D - if you want some bad ass street brakes get the hawk street plus, they are noisey and let off a ton of dust and eat rotors like bubble gum, but stop awesome, or the reg hps are good also, less noise and dust.
#12
RickRoush03
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so thats normal to have about 3 - 4 inches of pedal travel before braking friction? huh, well when i go home next week, i am gonna pay attention to my moms tl-p and see. ya, i could do ss lines etc, but all mod upgrades go to the roush. i'll try to rebleed this weekend, maybe a miracle will happen?
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