Ok,

I put on new peformance friction pads all the way around, put on new plain jane rotors all the way around. bled the whole system like its been said on here, LF, RF, RR, LR. Didn't break any of the seals on the lines so no air got in to begin with, and no bubbles came out, just dirty old fluid. Bedded them in also. Pedal with the car off pumps up hard, but when driving, it goes about half way down and then starts braking. I really have to push on it more than i would think to stop. I didn't see any bleeder screws on the M/C. Any options, keep bleeding? Bleed FL, RR, then RF, LR? car has 118k on the clock, maybe there is an adjustment needed?

 

Well for starters you shouldnt have bed them in for atleast 300-500 miles. most all manufacturers want you to take it easy on them for a few hendred to break in properly.

It may be the pad thats not biting properly causing the spongy feel.
when you changed the pads did you open the bleeder then push the caliper in to expell any fluid from the piston.?

 

i had a kinda low pedal to begin with and some said the rear pads may be gone, so that was part of why i did this. no, i didn't open the bleeder screw, there wasn't much of the piston to push back in since the fronts looked newer than the rears, but it didn't take much on any caliper. i have always bedded my brakes after inital install, maybe thats not right on acura's? needless to say, it was still a low pedal as i have now before the bed in.

 

I don't know if the bleeding would matter to your problem, but bleeding sequence should be RR, LR, RF, LF.

 

If the lines were bled and the pads were installed properly, and the pedal still feels spongy, then I would suggest getting the booster rod adjusted.

 

ok, where is this booster rod located? can i do it myself?

 

I have those pads on my Stang. I hate them. I imagine these pads might be ok if you used them for track duty, but normal street driving they're not good for me. I'm going with Hawk pads for my Acura when the time comes for new brakes.

 

Good point. if the pad is a performance pad, they may take more effort to slow down while cold. Alot of them require some heat build up before they start to work properly. I had a set of EBC Blacks that untill hot required about 60 more feet to stop from 60, once hot they had incredable bite and never faded once smoking hot

 

i appreciate it guys, but these are named performance firction pads, but nothing race oriented about them, they are the standard road pads, i know about race pads and needing heat. but what i am saying is the pedal travel is the same as before the brake job, it goes down, and then you feel the resistance for braking. so if i need to adjust the brake whatever, where is this adjustment?



on a side note Hokie D - if you want some bad ass street brakes get the hawk street plus, they are noisey and let off a ton of dust and eat rotors like bubble gum, but stop awesome, or the reg hps are good also, less noise and dust.

 

Cool thanks.

 

What you describe is fairly normal pedal travel for the TL. There really isnt any thing that you can do to improve it as far as adjustmets go. You can try to rebleed them and try to firm it up, you also can get SS lines which have shown to help in feel. Other than something along the lines of trying to find a larger Mastercyl that is compatable to achieve more pressure

 

so thats normal to have about 3 - 4 inches of pedal travel before braking friction? huh, well when i go home next week, i am gonna pay attention to my moms tl-p and see. ya, i could do ss lines etc, but all mod upgrades go to the roush. i'll try to rebleed this weekend, maybe a miracle will happen?