Bad Rotors? Replacements?
05-05-2010, 03:58 AM
#1
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Bad Rotors? Replacements?
My steering wheel shakes quite a bit anytime it seems like I'm hitting the brakes at 45mph+ . Sometimes when I accelerate hard, it shakes from 50-60 mph as well.
I had the engine mounts replaced when the tranny was replaced. It's been about 30k since the mounts have been replaced. I have roughly 50k on the rotors.
If it's the rotors, should I replace with oem rotors or get some drilled/slotted rotors. My friend told me that drilled rotors are weaker because they're drilled, if I was to get aftermarket, just get some slotted. Thanks for the help.
I had the engine mounts replaced when the tranny was replaced. It's been about 30k since the mounts have been replaced. I have roughly 50k on the rotors.
If it's the rotors, should I replace with oem rotors or get some drilled/slotted rotors. My friend told me that drilled rotors are weaker because they're drilled, if I was to get aftermarket, just get some slotted. Thanks for the help.
05-05-2010, 05:59 AM
#2
If it shake when you use the brake then your rotors might be warp. The brakes has nothing to do when you accelerate from 50-60 mph and it shakes, unless the caliper hanging,should look into alignment, tire wear unevenly,stiff axle or something else.
05-05-2010, 06:10 AM
#3
I have slotted & cross drilled front and rear with ceramic pads, braking distance has been improve, it could be weaker but it grabs really good.
Remember not to buy cheap rotors as they will warp in a short time.
Remember not to buy cheap rotors as they will warp in a short time.
05-05-2010, 04:21 PM
#5
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05-05-2010, 08:42 PM
#8
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how long your drilled slotted rotors last you so far? I don't wanna dish out 400 for drilled slotted rotors and have them crack on me fast.
05-05-2010, 09:48 PM
#9
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If you buy quality rotors - they won't crack... unless you were to somehow do a super hard stop from 120+mph and immediately park it in an ice cold lake or something... lol even then it would take a lot to make quality rotors crack. Cheap ones on the other hand... anything is possible - buyer beware - you get what you pay for with brakes.
05-05-2010, 11:23 PM
#10
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Thinking about Rotora drilled & slotted rotors. Should I get the steel braided brake lines as well??
excelerate has a promo going on. looks like a good deal
excelerate has a promo going on. looks like a good deal
05-06-2010, 08:25 AM
#13
The only time the brake rotor will cause a shake is when the brakes are applied. And, of course, if the fronts are shaking, you'll feel it in the steering wheel when you mash the pedal.
05-06-2010, 05:54 PM
#14
[quote=OEMAcuraPartsTim;11991755]Believe it or not, no.....at least not in the case of the 2G TL. They seem to develop a very small amount of lateral play, which causes the shake.
gotcha.
gotcha.
05-13-2010, 10:39 PM
#15
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Believe it or not, no.....at least not in the case of the 2G TL. They seem to develop a very small amount of lateral play, which causes the shake.
The only time the brake rotor will cause a shake is when the brakes are applied. And, of course, if the fronts are shaking, you'll feel it in the steering wheel when you mash the pedal.
The only time the brake rotor will cause a shake is when the brakes are applied. And, of course, if the fronts are shaking, you'll feel it in the steering wheel when you mash the pedal.
05-13-2010, 11:38 PM
#16
Its got a moaning sound upon brake application.
It warped after probably 2 yrs so I went back to stock.
If it warps then time to go w the cross drilled ones.
I have slotted/cross drilled front rotors on my tundra and
still works well todate.
05-14-2010, 07:04 AM
#17
WNC Real Estate Sales99TL
I bought Brembo Blanks and Acura Pads. I got 93,000 miles out of the last set of Acura pads. No squealing, not much dust. There are better pads and rotors as stated on this site/but this setup works great on my car. Not into fast preformance driving. I also replaced the front brake lines since in hot weather my car would pulse when stopping in hot weather. I spent around $380 for this set up and did the work myself.
05-14-2010, 08:46 AM
#18
05-14-2010, 12:38 PM
#19
Tim is correct- wheel bearing- axle bearing- cv joints etc will cause a shake on accelleration
Bearings are tricky to hear with the naked ear!~!
get in there with a mechanics stethascope and your whole world view will change~
I mean listen with that tool and you should be able to hear the offending part with it running on jackstands
ziners please PM or call vendors for prices so we keep the threads on topic- thank you
Bearings are tricky to hear with the naked ear!~!
get in there with a mechanics stethascope and your whole world view will change~
I mean listen with that tool and you should be able to hear the offending part with it running on jackstands
ziners please PM or call vendors for prices so we keep the threads on topic- thank you
05-14-2010, 12:57 PM
#20
Safety Car
If you buy quality rotors - they won't crack... unless you were to somehow do a super hard stop from 120+mph and immediately park it in an ice cold lake or something... lol even then it would take a lot to make quality rotors crack. Cheap ones on the other hand... anything is possible - buyer beware - you get what you pay for with brakes.
All drilled rotors are more prone to cracking and it doesn't matter of the quality. It is just the way it is. They don't recommend them at all in road racing as they can fail.
05-15-2010, 12:30 PM
#21
euro gt1 is allowing them and I though I saw some in us endurance races on tv this year
But those rotors cost over a grand per~~ then get signed and sold off after the race
unless you live on top of a mountain and commute to the bottem, or autocross race the car or extreme high water puddle contact- those examples will shine with crossdrilled
Side slotted are cool looking and they function to allow an escape path for expanding pad gasses that come out under really hard and repeated use, they can be high enough pressure to force the pads away from the rotors with your foot on the pedal!! not a great feeling aproaching turn 7
The slots give an escape path so there is not an issue
The major cooling in rotors come from the center vane configuration- how it extracts hot air from the center and gets it to the outside
does it keep the heat even thru vane design so rotor temp doesnt vary across the width (racingbrake.com)?, or do they do little or extract it so heat varies etc
All that has a direct impact on rotor life and prone to warping
Mettalurgy varies with makers intent of: mom drives the car (TL theory) or young drivers thrashing, or slipping in under scca rules with a special part (see legend calipers)
stock honda stuff is low budget,,as I often say - what they got you to pay for the car has no relation to what they spent making it
But those rotors cost over a grand per~~ then get signed and sold off after the race
unless you live on top of a mountain and commute to the bottem, or autocross race the car or extreme high water puddle contact- those examples will shine with crossdrilled
Side slotted are cool looking and they function to allow an escape path for expanding pad gasses that come out under really hard and repeated use, they can be high enough pressure to force the pads away from the rotors with your foot on the pedal!! not a great feeling aproaching turn 7
The slots give an escape path so there is not an issue
The major cooling in rotors come from the center vane configuration- how it extracts hot air from the center and gets it to the outside
does it keep the heat even thru vane design so rotor temp doesnt vary across the width (racingbrake.com)?, or do they do little or extract it so heat varies etc
All that has a direct impact on rotor life and prone to warping
Mettalurgy varies with makers intent of: mom drives the car (TL theory) or young drivers thrashing, or slipping in under scca rules with a special part (see legend calipers)
stock honda stuff is low budget,,as I often say - what they got you to pay for the car has no relation to what they spent making it
05-28-2010, 12:58 PM
#22
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I bought Brembo Blanks and Acura Pads. I got 93,000 miles out of the last set of Acura pads. No squealing, not much dust. There are better pads and rotors as stated on this site/but this setup works great on my car. Not into fast preformance driving. I also replaced the front brake lines since in hot weather my car would pulse when stopping in hot weather. I spent around $380 for this set up and did the work myself.
05-28-2010, 05:34 PM
#24
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05-28-2010, 06:35 PM
#25
Safety Car
euro gt1 is allowing them and I though I saw some in us endurance races on tv this year
But those rotors cost over a grand per~~ then get signed and sold off after the race
unless you live on top of a mountain and commute to the bottem, or autocross race the car or extreme high water puddle contact- those examples will shine with crossdrilled
Side slotted are cool looking and they function to allow an escape path for expanding pad gasses that come out under really hard and repeated use, they can be high enough pressure to force the pads away from the rotors with your foot on the pedal!! not a great feeling aproaching turn 7
The slots give an escape path so there is not an issue
The major cooling in rotors come from the center vane configuration- how it extracts hot air from the center and gets it to the outside
does it keep the heat even thru vane design so rotor temp doesnt vary across the width (racingbrake.com)?, or do they do little or extract it so heat varies etc
All that has a direct impact on rotor life and prone to warping
Mettalurgy varies with makers intent of: mom drives the car (TL theory) or young drivers thrashing, or slipping in under scca rules with a special part (see legend calipers)
stock honda stuff is low budget,,as I often say - what they got you to pay for the car has no relation to what they spent making it
But those rotors cost over a grand per~~ then get signed and sold off after the race
unless you live on top of a mountain and commute to the bottem, or autocross race the car or extreme high water puddle contact- those examples will shine with crossdrilled
Side slotted are cool looking and they function to allow an escape path for expanding pad gasses that come out under really hard and repeated use, they can be high enough pressure to force the pads away from the rotors with your foot on the pedal!! not a great feeling aproaching turn 7
The slots give an escape path so there is not an issue
The major cooling in rotors come from the center vane configuration- how it extracts hot air from the center and gets it to the outside
does it keep the heat even thru vane design so rotor temp doesnt vary across the width (racingbrake.com)?, or do they do little or extract it so heat varies etc
All that has a direct impact on rotor life and prone to warping
Mettalurgy varies with makers intent of: mom drives the car (TL theory) or young drivers thrashing, or slipping in under scca rules with a special part (see legend calipers)
stock honda stuff is low budget,,as I often say - what they got you to pay for the car has no relation to what they spent making it
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