frankjnjr

Tired of not being able to read the : Trip Meter, Odometer, Outside Temp, and Door Open, info, during the day. The cluster segment involved, sits directly below the Speedometer. This Group, is very easy to see, at night, but next to impossible to read, during the day. It is my understanding, that, in order to return this section of the cluster, to it's original level of brightness, two things need to be done. 1. Part number 78147-S0K-A01 $41.82, Circuit board, and Part number 78181-S0K-A21 Bulb (3) @ $5.25 ea., need to be replaced. I had an (electronics wizard) friend, look at the board in question, and he suggests renewing the bulbs, ONLY. He feels, if one of the diodes, or a resister, etc., fails, on the circuit board, the bulbs will not power up at all. Since, this group of lights, is Full On, any time the ignition is on, it would be reasonable to assume, that perhaps, the bulbs are just weak, or clouded " BLACK ", from 15 years, and 241K of service. It's not worth $50 to me, to correct this issue, but I would pay $15 for the new bulbs, if I was somewhat confident, they would fix the problem. ANYONE had experience, improving the panel's brightness, by changing out the bulbs, ONLY?

Karanx7

iTrader: (2)

Those bulbs go out all the time. You can upgrade to LEDs for pretty cheap.

frankjnjr

Tx. Karanx7, but I prefer the stock bulbs. If just one bulb was out, I don't think I'd be getting the consistency, of illumination, at night, that I do. I think what I'll do, is just pull my cluster, and see what the bulbs look like. I've pulled several clusters, at the local pickNpull, and looked at the bulbs. Of the 15, that I pulled, 6 were burned out, 5 had (Blackened) top areas, and 4, looked perfectly good. If any of the bulbs, in my cluster look bad, (Blackened), or are burned out, I'll replace them with the ones from the pickNpull, and see what happens. If there is no change, I'll just go ahead and order the new circuit board, and 3 new bulbs. Thanks for your suggestion.

Arkady

It's been a few months since I messed with my dash, but if I recall correctly it was just two tiny little bulbs inside that LCD section that power the lights (on the '99TL-P at least). I personally would vouch for an LED conversion (you can get them where they aren't much brighter than OEM bulbs, if you so wish) but you seem to have your mind set.

frankjnjr

Hey Arkady, Thanks for your input. Actually on the 03, there are three lamps, that illuminate the odometer area. Realize I should probably get with the times, and go with the LED lamps, but I guess, I'm just OCD, and Old School minded. Everything on my car is OEM stock, so I just want to keep it that way. For the cost of all new OEM bulbs, I found an alternative. Ebay listed a complete, NEW, old stock OEM cluster, minus the clear plastic face panel, for $59.90, shipped. I ordered it this past Wed. Supposed to be here next Monday. It's going to be a challenge, re-programming the 93C56 Eprom chip, to show the current miles, but, I figure if I've gone this far, I may as go all the way.

Iggy

You could just swap the old eprom into the new cluster. Do you have a hot air station? If not, I bet a local computer repair shop could do it for cheap.

frankjnjr

Hey Iggy, Thanks, that makes a whole lot more sense than trying to program the new one. I don't have a hot air station, but I have an acquaintance, who is willing to let me use hers. Tx. again

Iggy

keep us posted

frankjnjr

My only real concern, is having to dismantle the cluster, to include removing the speedometer needle. It is my understanding that the 93C56 Eprom chip is located behind the speedometer face, on the forward main circuit board. I plan on visiting a local pick-n-pull to experiment first, as I'm not 100% confident, I can do it, without breaking something.

frankjnjr

FWIW: Word of caution. The last time I removed the cluster, to install 3 very nice looking used odometer bulbs, from the pick-n-pull, I must have (jarred) the cluster, resulting in the loss of the D3 Lamp! It makes sense, that since D3 is illuminated the most, it must be very fragile, after 15 years, and 241K. MY BAD. After visiting the pick-n-pull, and dis-mantling an 03 TLS cluster, I was unable to locate the 93C56 EPROM chip. Will look on line, to see if there is another way to identify it. In this excursion, I did learn, that for anyone interested in replacing their burned out D5 lamp, IT'S NOT GONNA BE EASY! The entire cluster will have to come apart, including the clear plastic face cover, and the tachometer face. After removing the tachometer face, the D lights are exposed, in a recessed area beneath the tach face. In addition to being difficult to access, THEIR SOLDERED INTO THE MAIN CIRCUIT BOARD!

frankjnjr

Couple of corrections. 1. I meant the D5 lamp, not the D3 lamp, above. 2. The gear indicator lamps, ARE NOT soldered in. Two pins, per lamp, are soldered to the main circuit board, and the indicator lamps, utilize somewhat of a soft (RUBBERIZED) base, which plugs into the two pins, located in the deep well, of each indicator lamp. I did receive, and install the (NEW UNUSED) OEM cluster. Turns out, It showed 118,320 miles, the outside temp indicator was inoperative, as well as a non working fuel gauge!! So much for cheap SURPLUS OEM parts! I emailed the selling company directly, and was advised that an immediate CREDIT of the purchase price was made, and there was no need to return the cluster in question. BRAVO to Spark-surplus, out of Sugarland, TX. Re-install original cluster, while waiting on new bulbs. As soon as the new NON OEM bulbs arrive, I will remove the cluster again, and replace All the bulbs!

Iggy

That stinks. At least the vendor made good. I was looking forward to a good EPROM story though. hehe

frankjnjr

Got the new bulbs today. Decided to take the PLUNGE, dismantle, and repair my original cluster. Disassembly, was easy. Reassembly, not so much. In order to get to the D5 lamp, the entire cluster must come apart. Couldn't get speedometer needle seated properly. Thought I had it RIGHT 3 different times, installed cluster 3 times, speedometer needle sticks @ 48 mph!! Tried re-seating it a couple of more times, than gave up. Went to a local yard and bought a used cluster for $25.00, and installed it. Need the car for a 1,100 mile trip next week. Going to try and find a Tech, who KNOWS clusters. All other needles went in, no problem, and all work? All needles, have the same style pins. Why the difficulty with the speedometer needle, I DON"T KNOW. Kudos, to anyone who has ever done this successfully.

Iggy

That thing is fighting you tooth and nail isn't it?

One possibility with the speedo needle would be to semi-install the connected cluster without the clear face. Hit the highway(flatter is better) and set the cruise at say 60mph(using your phone gps for speed reference) and place the needle at 60(don't crash). once set, try different speeds to test for accuracy. Worth a shot maybe.

If the gauge still sticks at 48mph without the needle in place before attempting all that, then forget what I said and go to plan B. What is plan B? I have no idea......hehe

Arkady

Ha, that's exactly how I calibrated my needles after I did my gauge cluster! My Google Maps won't show me my speed, but I had an old Garmin in my car so I whipped that thing out to calibrate. Used a OBD2 scanner to read the RPM and set that needle, but honestly just putting it at zero nailed it down. My gas needle is still wrong, but I really don't feel like fixing it, so now my TL just gets filled up a bit earlier haha.

frankjnjr, make sure the needle isn't bent and snagging on the plastic backfacing of the gauge. Mine was catching on it a bit before I got it straight.

frankjnjr

Thanks Iggy, and Arkady, ("One possibility with the speedo needle would be to semi-install the connected cluster without the clear face. Hit the highway(flatter is better) and set the cruise at say 60mph(using your phone gps for speed reference) and place the needle at 60(don't crash). once set, try different speeds to test for accuracy." ) Tried your suggestion, Seemed to correct the issue. put everything back together, speedo still sticks at 48 mph. Re-installed the used cluster, in preparation for my pending trip, and noticed, the SRS light is now lit! Tried a (Hard Reboot) following instructions on the forum, NO DICE, SRS light still on. I think what triggered it, was driving the car without hooking up the FOG SUN ROOF TCS, group of switches, especially the TCS. Have had cluster out several times, have started the car, but never driven it before, partially assembled? Currently trying to find someone with a scanner capable of re-setting the SRS. UGH! I'll give it another go, when I return from my trip.

Iggy

I've done the same thing triggering my SRS. No need for scanner to reset it, just need a paper clip.

This is for a Civic, but it's the same for our cars.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4t4d...ature=youtu.be

frankjnjr

Yes Iggy, I tried that method like 4 times, following the procedure outlined in the youtube video. Didn't work on my car? Ended up borrowing a scanner from a friend, and finally turned it off.

Iggy

Glad it worked out. Interesting you couldn't clear the SRS manually. When I've done mine in the past I've used an inline switch vs. inserting/removing a paper clip which helps with a more positive open/close of the circuit.

Speaking of scanners, I recently pulled the trigger on a decent bi-directional scanner. For the money, I'm very impressed with it's capability.


Couple of vids on the unit