So i just bought this TL from this guy at night, i didnt look through it all greatly and what bassicaly happened was i got ripped off and it was part of my fault too but still, alright heres the problem. When i test drove it, it didnt happen AFTER i bought it. What happen was, at times when i start the car after driving it for 20-30 mins and i turn it off and head to a friends house and come back and try starting it again. it will have trouble starting/miss fire. and i would have to give it gas just to stay running. I hate this esp. infront my girlfriend and her family. took it too autozone to get it scanned,

*Not sure what these codes are, but i guess theres a short disc. of what it means*

-P0300 Cylinder misfire detected
Causes:Fuel System Concern, Ignition system concern, MAF sensor Faulty, H02S/AF (Heated Oxygen sensor/Air-Fuel ratio sensor fault, Blocked intake or exhaust system

-P0302 Cylinder 2 missfire detected
Cause: Vacuum leak affecting one cylinder, Ignition system concern, blocked or faulty fuel injector, Engine Machincal Condition

-P0301 Cylinder number 1 misfire detected
Causes: vacuum leak affecting one cylinder, Igniton system concern, blocked or faulty fuel injectors, engine machincal condition.

*PUMPED IT UNLEADED. The guy never told me to pump primuim.

So i bought a used injectors/rail, all 5 coils was bad, so i bought 4 used coils. and fixed the intake manifold leak that was leaking after i installed the injectors (DIDNT BUY NEW GASKET!!)

it still had trouble starting up. only when i drive it to places and from a cold engine it starts fine.

what do you guys suggest replacing? o2 sensor? air/fuel ratio? ugh man....

 

This is a VERY common problem around here and there are other threads about it. But I have not seen a fix. I have the same issue from fall to spring, but not in the summer months. It seems to me that my issue has to do with the additives in winter gas.

 

I have the same problem as well. Not really a big issue if it is cold.

You may wanna take a look this, http://www.justanswer.com/acura/38jy...iding-car.html

What I have done so far:
1) change spark plug (whether it solved the problem or not, they gotta be changed, mine got 140k)
2) first stage cleaning the ERG ( gasket and intake cover only). Coz no time and tools so far, need to wait my order arrived.

What I plan to do:
3) clean the ERG main port and the intake manifold
4) clean or change the ERG valve

If after all the above, still the same. I think I will just live with it. Hehe. Will probably change the O2 sensor later when I have extra money.

 

Hmmm....the customer on that link said that he ran the car with the EGR valve disconnected for 2 weeks and didn't have the problem. Can the car actually run like this? Then he claims that replacing the EGR valve fixed the problem.
Anybody wanna try this?

 

my valve is very rusted, same as my EVAP shut valve.

I have changed my EVAP set which costs me ~$230 (parts + label, canister and shut valve).

EGR valve is the last thing I will consider as the part alone is ~$130ish.

 

If you do decide to change, try rockauto.com for EGR valve; they are all under $85. Very easy to change, just undo 2 bolts and it comes out. Make sure you replace gasket and clean out the egr port on the block with carb cleaner.
I thought it may also be related to the EVAP system and fuel line pressure or vapor lock. But since you already changed that whole system, it rules it out.

 

+1 anyone know if the car can safely be run with the EGR disconnected?

 

DONT!!!
just perform the diy of: remove intake manifold and clean egr PASSAGE and Ports thru the manifold
(use wire coat hanger and carb cleaner)
service the throttle body while its sitting there on the bench- clean iacv
the egr cleanout is needed every 75kmiles, and not listed in any maitenance book!
99s need it sooner!!
clogged egr will really mess with the cars running

rare is the failure of the egr valve itself, clean its ports and lube the arm when doing the rest of service

plugs: use only NGK IRIDIUM or ngk platinum, 8 dollars each,
accept no other subsitute brands, as they will burn out in a month

multi coil misfire code is usually 1 bad coil but the system isnt sure whats happening,,so multi codes and several `false codes`

remember: codes are CLUES, not a diagnosis in themself

you MUST reset the ECU after coil change by removing `clock fuse` or battery neg cable (have radio security code handy if using batt cable method)
clock fuse is located on end of dash- passenger side- open door to see

clock fuse is the secret backup power for the ecu-the cars brain
pulling its power forces a reboot and self test --to find the new coils etc

if you had the intake manifold off, make sure the bolt torque is exact! 14-16 ft lbs

we get mystery vac leaks from bad front or rear motor mount
fluid filled and vac boosted!

 

if you only cleaned the port below the egr valve--you didnt address the real problem

those ports lead to a passge that runs the length of the intake manifold
splitting off of that- are ports for each cylinder,,pushing some exhaust gas into the combustion chambers for reburning (stupid smog laws)

ALL that must be clean for the egr system to operate
plenty of pics on azine of the crud buildup
requires 3 cans carb cleaner or 1 can deep creep (seafoam aerosol)
and a long metal wire, welding rod, coat hanger --to poke the crud loose

 

1 tank of 87 wont kill it
just run 91 or 94 if thats what they sell as premium in your state
Should be a sticker inside gas cap door,,MIN 91 OCTANE

buy 2 cans of seafoam, @8-10$ each
that will clean all the fuel path and combustion system, intake valve stems and edges..(you see pics posted at gas stations of dirty valve vs their gas and clean valves--thats real)
Also cleans o2 sensor and cat on that way out~
use 1 can in just under half tank of gas
repeat when next full tank is down just below half
use carb cleaner on TB air plate

 

3.2_vtec,

See the thread: Engine starts up, then stalls - 99 TL 102K