What's your set up for I/H/E ?
What's your set up for I/H/E ?
Hello guys
I'm Brandon and I'm new to this forum and new to this tl-s that I recently bought.
I'm loving the style of the 2nd gen tl and I want more powaa but I would like to know what type of brands you guys are using for your ua5.
For me I was thinking : aem v2 intake , dc sport headers and xlr8 2.5 test pipe if it can fit onto the stock piping exhaust.
For my exhaust system I'm really not sure yet.
Please chime in if the parts I listed are good,nothing but hype, or if there is something better that would yield more gains in power.
I'm Brandon and I'm new to this forum and new to this tl-s that I recently bought.
I'm loving the style of the 2nd gen tl and I want more powaa but I would like to know what type of brands you guys are using for your ua5.
For me I was thinking : aem v2 intake , dc sport headers and xlr8 2.5 test pipe if it can fit onto the stock piping exhaust.
For my exhaust system I'm really not sure yet.
Please chime in if the parts I listed are good,nothing but hype, or if there is something better that would yield more gains in power.
I = AEM v2 < It needs to be moded to fit a TL-S FYI.
H = DC Sports < Hate that its flaking the Ceramic
E = Just middle muffler removed. Working for a Cat-back someday..
What will yield more power?
I = AEM v2 is by far the best CAI in the Market for the TL-S but again it must be moded to make it fit.
H = COMPTECH!!! By far the best but horrible bang for the buck IMO.
E = ATLP FTW!
H = DC Sports < Hate that its flaking the Ceramic
E = Just middle muffler removed. Working for a Cat-back someday..
What will yield more power?
I = AEM v2 is by far the best CAI in the Market for the TL-S but again it must be moded to make it fit.
H = COMPTECH!!! By far the best but horrible bang for the buck IMO.
E = ATLP FTW!
1.- AEM v2 was exclusively made for the TL-p so it doesn't take into account the VSA TB, The piping is longer to fit into the TB only.
You have to literally saw that piece of pipe to make it fit into the VSA TB.
2.- DC Sports don't make any other Header that isn't Ceramic Coated for our TL FYI.
You have to literally saw that piece of pipe to make it fit into the VSA TB.
2.- DC Sports don't make any other Header that isn't Ceramic Coated for our TL FYI.
Skirmich that doesn't sound to bad. A little cutting and then bam it should be on
As for the the dc sport, I searched on there site and they said it can come polish stainless steel.I also found a eBay seller selling it in stainless steel
I hope it is.
Any other option guys beside mines
As for the the dc sport, I searched on there site and they said it can come polish stainless steel.I also found a eBay seller selling it in stainless steel
I hope it is.Any other option guys beside mines
It's not worth putting a AEM V2 on a TL-S, because of the diameter of the TB piping.
The Type S has a bigger TB, and the AEM V2 would just negate that by choking it back to TL-P diameter.
The Type S has a bigger TB, and the AEM V2 would just negate that by choking it back to TL-P diameter.
^^ You can fix that pretty easily.. The 2nd stage pipe is big fat ass you can cut the smaller TL-p diameter tube and install a bigger one (Bear in mind we are talking about a few "mm" for about 2inch so isn't really that much of a deal unless you are that much OCD or totally into racing) but its doable.
To OP:
DC Headers don't make a "Stainless Steel Finish" they are STAINLESS STEEL CERAMIC COATED! And if you find out one with a Chrome finish or a SS Finish then it must be the old design or fake but in any case you don't want to buy the old design DC Header which is Discontinued.
The only ones doing SS Finish still are Megan Racing, Comptech and OBX.
To OP:
DC Headers don't make a "Stainless Steel Finish" they are STAINLESS STEEL CERAMIC COATED! And if you find out one with a Chrome finish or a SS Finish then it must be the old design or fake but in any case you don't want to buy the old design DC Header which is Discontinued.
The only ones doing SS Finish still are Megan Racing, Comptech and OBX.
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Karanx7 I knew I wasn't crazy I kept on looking at the pictures of the intake pipe that goes to the tb and it looks like it' sit flush.
In the other hand the aem and injen looks like it has a bigger piping.
But whatever intake that makes great gains is what I want.
Skirmich I did not know that. I hope it is a full stainless steel not a typo.
I'll have to ask the seller today. I thought Megan and obx are junk brands?
Anyone using those brand headers?
In the other hand the aem and injen looks like it has a bigger piping.
But whatever intake that makes great gains is what I want.
Skirmich I did not know that. I hope it is a full stainless steel not a typo.
I'll have to ask the seller today. I thought Megan and obx are junk brands?
Anyone using those brand headers?
I: Comptech Icebox. IMO, it's the best CAI for the TL-S. Not sold by CTE anymore, but you might find one on the BM. I paired mine with a K&N filter back in 2006, which I swap every other oil change with its stock foam filter.
H: DC Sports, the original 2-bolt flange style. The finish on mine are flaking at all. Looks a little less "bright", but no flaking at all. I fixed the flange leaking about two months after I bought them in late 2006, but they've been trouble-free ever since.
E: Stock. Added some 4" SS tips, that's it. Oh and an high-flow cat too.
An underdrive pulley isn't too expensive and I think it's worth the money. Unorthodox Racing is the way to go. I bought mine from Excelerate back in 2006.
H: DC Sports, the original 2-bolt flange style. The finish on mine are flaking at all. Looks a little less "bright", but no flaking at all. I fixed the flange leaking about two months after I bought them in late 2006, but they've been trouble-free ever since.
E: Stock. Added some 4" SS tips, that's it. Oh and an high-flow cat too.
An underdrive pulley isn't too expensive and I think it's worth the money. Unorthodox Racing is the way to go. I bought mine from Excelerate back in 2006.
The apple doesn't far from the tree with the I/h/e set up.
I guess I shouldn't ask what's the best combo but what's the
Average gain in power and 1/4 mile times?
Plus the ur pulley, I didn't know this was a big thing with the j series group.
I guess I shouldn't ask what's the best combo but what's the
Average gain in power and 1/4 mile times?
Plus the ur pulley, I didn't know this was a big thing with the j series group.
I have the AEM cai, XS stainless headers, and a custom exhaust which is 2.5 inches on the main pipe, and 2.25 on the y pipe with both mid muffler and resonator removed. Stock mufflers. Car sounds good. And pulls hard.
I have a test pipe coming in today. Will be ordering the pulley soon. With the basic mods the car is a blast to drive.
I have a test pipe coming in today. Will be ordering the pulley soon. With the basic mods the car is a blast to drive.
Hey Stephen00TL, Nice !!!....clean and better breathing is what it's all about.
With all the labor and mods ya done, It's gotta be difficult to let the old gal go.
But, there will be that day down the road.
With all the labor and mods ya done, It's gotta be difficult to let the old gal go.
But, there will be that day down the road.
Keeping it as a daily driver and keeping the miles off the newer one
Last edited by Stephen00TL; Apr 13, 2014 at 05:20 PM.
Cusco strut tower brace type os
http://hoa.excelerateperformance.com.../i-306779.aspx
http://hoa.excelerateperformance.com.../i-306779.aspx
Really good quality bar but pricey
thanks man
It made a difference but you will have to get a custom adapter made because the p2r adapter usually doesn't work (poor design). I would do the crank pulley first it allows the car to rev easier, it's cheaper, and pretty easy to install or cheap to have a shop install.
Yes Airaid UBI, I originally wanted to do a cold air intake but in Florida with the amount of rain and how it builds up on the roads I didn't want to do it. The spot where the filter would be is always wet when it rains so I didn't want to risk it. when I built it I wanted to make sure it wasn't getting to hot of a charge so a friend had a tool to monitor air temp and many other things while I drove the car. Driving it around in the city with lots of stop and go it only read about 8 degrees warmer then the air outside.
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