well thanks for your help i learn something new from you guys everyday

 

wait till you have been here a year and have read nearly every thread in search of secret tricks and performance mods and things to watch for...then your wife says you spend a lot of time on acurazine....
I tell her I could be out burning up gas and abusing the brakes, or be on here, where some nice people feed my ego telling me I am right about something and thanks for the help, or I get to tell some one they are doing it incorrect (doesnt that sound better than WRONG!)and help them with the right procedure to solve their problem.
example- brake bleeding order

 

should i change the plugs first before i do the sea foam or afterwords

 

haha i just recently got on acurazine and already the wife is complaining so im there with you

 

After.

 

thanks tcm

 

Np . Sea foam is great stuff.

 

just did the sea foam great stuff i will do the plugs tommorow they did not have the ngk iridium ix or the platnium so i got ngk g power dont know if they are good but we will see thanks for the help

 

Take them back
There are 2 approved plugs for the car and that aint one of them!!
The TL has a very high voltage plug sysytem with fine wire electrode on the plug
Those Bosch 4 massive electrodes dont work either. Suffer= performace and mileage
Spend the 45 bucks and buy the right plugs for the job.
It only hurts till you drive it and feel the differance

 

i will be exchanging them tommorow

 

hint- use a 9 inch or a 3 and 6 inch extension together, for the ratchet- when doing the rear plugs. There is even a place in the firewall where your hand fits to turn the ratchet!

Do 1 plug in front first to see how it all fits together- then the rears. That leaves the easy reach fronts for the last part of the job

 

well got the job done today car is running smooth thanks for the help and your patience..any recomendations on what i should start doing next im looking at giving the car better handle i know i need sways anything else

 

Springs and shocks. The sways do a lot more than the strut connectors up top.

 

start with the lower frame bar, it makes a noticable and immediate improvement

then if your going to go with shocks and springs- go for it!!! and get the adjustable coilovers and have the best car you have ever driven

 

worked like a charm

now my VTEC actually can be felt when it kicks in


i think i led some cops on a chase when i was doing 90MPH + vtec runs on the highway, and yes they couldn't catch me, lol


i also came up with a new way to save yourself some trouble, simply get a lil peice of hose, and a hose connector, or a good straw, use that as a temp connector to suck the seafoam from the can, makes it easier to manage the throttle and the suction....

:-/

thinking i might do it again...lol

 

I suggested 10 mph to 60 mph WOT vtec runs -that will take it hard thru 2nd and 3rd gear and keep you under arrestable limits

 

^haha

I was wondering if you use seafoam and plan on swapping out the plugs when would be the best time to do that?

 

from what i've read do the seafoam , make sure you do the WOT/ 20-60mph Vtec burn runs!
and then do it after a couple of days....


from the info from 01tl4tl

 

Thats correct- a few days of driving after you seafoam- give everything a chance to blow out, and then change the plugs when the engine is COLD
Make sure to run some seafoam in gas at 2 oz per 1 gallon of gas. Do this right before the intake vac line method so the vtec runs are pumping cleaner thru the injectors and onto the valves and pistons- with everything nice and hot and melting away

 

I did everything as the DIY except for the last part. I did not go long on the oil part of it. I put in a can, drove 15 miles to the Air Force base auto hobby shop and changed my oil. After doing the "triple team", my car had perfect idle, better mileage and just overall ran much smoother. I think I'll do this twice a year since I use Mobil 1 synthetic every 7500 miles.

 

15 miles drive for the oil is fine- you did it better than most of us actually~
Since this was your first time, repeat intake and heavy dose fuel method in 2000 miles
Do the oil when you change it again

 

^^^
Yup, plus the day after I did that, I drove 1500 miles to Atlanta at about 80mph pretty much whole way..a good long highway road trip will certainly do an engine some good to help clear out gunk. I did run seafoam again 1/2 way through my trip...this stuff is liquid gold!

 

just seafoamed the car earlier today, runs SO smooth... shifts alot softer and idles in silence at stop lights.... about how often is it healthy to run this through your car... (i only ran 1 can through the vac line today)

 

The vac line seems to be over cylinders 4 and 6 on one side, kinda makes me wonder how much of the seafoam is making it to the cylinders on the other side. The seafoam would have to go back up towards the throttle body and down the other side of the intake manifold.

 

kush- the intake maifold has valves that open to each cylinder and suck the seafoam past the valve-cleaning it and into the piston area- and clean it.
The carberator sits on the middle of my V8 chevy, but fuel amazingly goes to the correct place at the correct time.
Its magic~

Use seafoam every 5000-7500 miles as maitenance dose for fuel tank
With your oil change schedule works good
Using it in the gas tank cleans the injectors- which the vac line method does not get to

 

yea.. I know that but the vac line is located on one arm of the intake manifold (which is Y shaped) If it was possible to pour it through the intake manifold like other vehicles it would be more evenly disbursed to all the cylinders. Do you understand what I mean?

 

go back to killing brain cells man- you are over-thinking the situation~
It gets in everywhere the intake goes when you use the manifold vac line

Check the DIY for EGR and Thermoblock install
It has pics of the underside of the manifold

 

No need to start shit, just my input. Trying to get opinions myself.

 

Just kidding with you man no harm meant
The manifold is not a big hollow tunnel like it appears from outside.
When an intake valve opens it sucks the fuel air seafoam mix into that 1 cylinder, then the next opens and it gets sucked in there- hence the name vacuum
The thread I mentioned has great pics and fsstyms1 has posted pics of his intake after he did some cleanout of the ports/runner tubes

 

I did a Seafoam treatment yesterday on my 00 Tl with 70k miles and ran into problems. After I sucked it in and turned the car back on, the check engine and TCS lights came on. Also, after I reversed and put it into drive, it was hesitant to go. I did the driving afterwards and stopped to check the hose was reconnected properly. When I turned my car back on, the TCS light went away but the check engine was still on. I went to AutoZone and had the codes read. They pulled codes P0301-P0306 (misfire in cylinders 1-6). I had them reset it and I will see if it comes back. Has this happened to many people? Does the light come back? How worried should I be? What are the possible problems/solutions?

 

The light goes on for me when I do it, but just take that drive afterwards and it will go away on its own.

 

I drove about 20+ miles and it didn't go away so I had it cleared. I drove about 60 mph and would step on it and 80 mph and about 4k rpm. I did this a few times in my 20 mile trip. I haven't driven it since having it cleared so I'm not sure if it will come back. I'm going to try and do some hard driving again next time I take the car out to see if it will help. I'm kind of regretting using Seafoam now.

 

You just need to follow the seafoam directions fully is all.
The bad running goes away after a minute or 2, and then you go for a drive in 3rd gear at 4000 rpm to superheat the exhaust and engine internals-
then do some 10-20 to 60 mph full throttle runs, as many as you feel like doing at that time.
The next few days the seafoam will continue to do its thing and clean off more of the piston top gunk and valves, and especially the fuel injectors when used in the gas tank.

A CEL and codes just means the hot drive was not done enough to burn the loosened crud off the O2 sensor. It also means Seafoam is doing its job and there was a lot of stuff in the engine. Its important to ad seafoam with the engine warm already.

The warnings are nothing to worry about and will clear itself in a few days
You have not hurt anything- and in a week will be singing seafoams praises just like the rest of us do.

 

Should I continue to drive it kind of hard the next couple of days? The engine had been running for about 10 minutes and the temp guage was in the middle for at least 5 minutes when I did the treatment. I did it when it was kind of dark but the smoke only seemed to last for about 30 seconds to 1 minute.

 

i went seafoam crazy today!
used 1 can in my gas, 1 can in my oil, and 1 can through my vac line.smoke came out like a M***********!!! so then i picked my buddy up and did it through his civic, MY GOD he blew my smoke out of the water, this this white cloud was so big that someone called the cops to the parking lot we were in (closed kmart). i am definitely going to do this to everyone of my cars and doing it again in 2k miles

 

pav- you want to drive for 15 minutes on the freeway then do seafoam in the intake vac line. The smoke amount per person is relative- some of it is seafoam, some is carbon
When you hit the freeway afterwards- smoke comes out you cant see, and when you do the 10-60 WOT runs... its pumping stuff big time

Cops? Thats why I do it away from closed store parking lots and near freeway side-roads.
You should only be sitting there after restart for a minute until it runs well enough to drive
Get that gunk blowing out of the engine-

 

if anyone is willing to do this to my 03 tl-s i will greatly appreciate it. i'll even pay a few bucks. oh yeah im in portland, or. just pm me

 

Guys,
I am sorry to have to be the one to tell you but Kushsmoker is CORRECT! Trust me, I have disassembled every part of this car, both Type-s and premium models. I do all my own mechanic work and have verified this with others Acura mechanics as I was suspicious when I looked at it like Kushsmoker. Feeding the Seafoam in through the vac line actually only feeds the front three cylinders as they are fed from the three runners at the rear side of the intake. I promise, and this has been covered on the CL side of the board, if you feed it in like all of you in this thread have been doing you will only clean the front cylinder bank. The vac lines normal function is not to disperse anything into the intake, it is only to provide a air vacuum to connected parts outside of the intake from the vacuum of the intake. The fitting the vac line connects to just dumps right into the intake on the other side of the intake wall it is mounted on. The best way to evenly disperse the Seafoam across both cylinder banks is to remove the intake hose from the throttle, pour all the seafoam you want to use into a spray bottle, and spray it into the throttle with the engine running. This is a little realized fact and that is all I will say about it. If you dont believe me that is up to you but that is how it is. Disassemble your upper intake manifold and check for yourself. I love all the smoke.

 

Got any idea where the brake booster vac feeds to then? Thats the other normal place people use as the inlet.
How did you get a spray bottle to work upside down- I cant fit one upright into the space.

 

All the vack lines dump into only one side of the intake. The vac and brake boost vac attatch and dump at the same place. I bent the straw in the spray nozzle just enough for it to lean on the side of it if the bottle or you can use a spray nozzle with a flexible tube or put a little bit of flex tube on the end of the straw from the spray nozzle portion of the bottle and suck it right out of the Seafoam bottle.

Look at all the pics and diagrams of the vac line, brake booster vac line, IAT, and in some cases PVC hose. They are all on the same side of the intake manifold and all dump rithe into the intake from where they connect. These are all EGR valve cleaning treads but they show you what you need to see.

https://acurazine.com/forums/show...739&postcount=8
http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/B00-004.PDF
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=156252