clint999

That guy goes through and puts that comment on nearly EVERY Seafoam video there is out there. Check the original thread for how many people have found success with this product .

01tl4tl

the product is awesome- there are critical things about how to use it-- to get the most for your money from it. At 8 bucks a can, I want a lot of results!!

for engine oil: right before next oil change add 1.5 oz per qt of oil,thats approx half a can for us
Drive around 30 minutes and drain oil while warm
it will be black like you cant believe, even on cars with constant oil change history-
the stuff builds up as a result of combustion blowby past the rings- a normal thing in cars everywhere

vtec rails and sliders sludge up too- so I use vtec a few times on the drive to get cleaner run thru all the parts it can reach
thats my opinion

Comet2404

So after I did my Seafoam treatment, I had some interesting results. As I used the deep creep, the engine did just fine. No CEL's or any abnormalities. However, after I let it sit for 13 minutes, I started it back up, didn't rev it per the instructions. My CEL flashed, and both VSA lights came on. I went ahead and did the hot drive as I have in the past. VSA was normal the next start up. I figured the CEL was the O2 sensor and would clear after a few days. It's been 4 days and no luck.

I dropped by my Acura dealer today to see what it was. No O2 codes, but cylinder misfires for ALL cylinders. There have been no driveability issues, and the car has not been acting funny. I imagine it just stored the codes from the initial engine start. I had them clear the codes and so far it hasn't reappeared. I already have Iridium IX spark plugs that I'm having them install for me in a week.

01tl4tl

what revving on restart? not going vrooom vrooom are you?

should start and hold throttle up slightly so it will run
when it will do a clean rev to 2000 start driving in low gear at 2000
for a few minutes as smoke billows out the tail

when it will cleanly rev to 4000 while driving- hit a sideroad or empty freeway
and drive 4000rpm 5-10 minutes with some blast from 3000 to 5000 rpm to get vtec active

the CEL is common which self cleans and self clears the O2 sensor which got loaded with a carbon blast

the multi misfire was probably just your restart method and a solid dose of seafoam
Driving will clean the plugs back off unless they have 100kmiles on them, then not so well,
but you are ready to replace them anyway so it all works out= foam first- then plug change gives them a clean home to work 100% in

repeat foam to vac port and TB in a month or so then good for a year
will NOT hurt your new plugs!!!
Why are you paying dealer to do plugs- honda will charge less and a private shop that does honda/acura even better!

If you need codes read in the future, most parts stores will do it free
If you need help with a running prob after any work- come here before dealer- we can usually direct you to the fix

did you add seafoam to gas: 1 can to just under half tank? = 2oz per gal fuel
thats really important and gets all the fuel system parts -which the vac port cannot
at all

those cleaning TB air plate: Use the manual throttle control on rear side of TB- the thing with the 2 cables and big spring- thats the return spring for throttle/gas pedal and need cleaning and lube too--seafoams Deep Creep does both those jobs

Rotate the spring/throttle assembly with your hand/fingers during seafoam to adjust rpm
AND to open air plate fully with engine OFF to clean front back and sides of plate- very important
DC lubes the pivot hinge in the plate too

Comet2404

I don't inject the seafoam near the engine compartment. I have about a 4-5ft clear hose I have from home depot that I sling around into the passenger compartment so I can sit in my drivers seat and monitor the engine rpms. Works like a charm.

Upon restart, I let it idle by itself, did not rev it up, then about 1-2 mins afterwards I kept it at about 2000rpms for a minute, let it off to stabilize, and then went on my "spirited drive." The CEL, and both VSA lights came on upon the start up.

Again, the codes were all 6 cylinder misfires, but no O2 sensor code. The car drives just fine.

I've been a very longtime customer of my dealer, and I refuse to take my car to anyone else for maintenance or work. I don't trust anyone else. They treat me like a king, and they never overcharge me. They read and cleared my codes for me yesterday for free. My dealer does such a nice job, I'll never take my car elsewhere, not even for emissions testing. I'm not sure how much spark plugs installed will be. They did it last time for me and it wasn't much. I'm having them do other work for me at the same time though, but I don't mind paying them a little more than some shop might charge me. They are good, they know me, and they know my car.

Edit: Yes I did do the SF in the gas tank... actually through two half tanks. I wanted to get it really clean before I put in the new plugs. TB was also cleaned, and the cables were lubed after I put my intake manifold back together last week after cleaning the EGR ports and everything else.

01tl4tl

the codes were just from seafoam saturation- you did an excellent job getting it in there!

Comet2404

Well I might have some new info regarding whether or not Seafoam is safe for catalytic converters or not.... shortly after my last SF treatment, I kept hearing some horrible noise. Took it into the dealership - and low and behold... I needed a new cat. It was falling apart from the inside.

KobeAllDay

Gives you a reason for you to pick up an exhaust now haha

Shifty Gizm

Has anyone tried the 3M 3 part intake cleaning kit. A friend from work said he used it in his 05 RSXS & loved it.

Comet2404

Nah - I was never one for aftermarket exhausts... besides I have already repaired the problem and put a new cat in. It was going to be $1,400 at the dealer, but I was able to do it for under 1K. They always hook me up. Not to mention I've been in a 2011 MDX Tech + Advance package for a month. Couldn't complain about that at all!!!

01tl4tl

seafoam do not hurt your cat! its 3 types of oils- that once run thru the engine actually clean the cat

something else,, like 87 octane gas or O2 sensor prob is at the heart of your failure
How may miles?? kms for canada cars

I have replaced cats on plenty of cars that never heard of seafoam

you can use bk or 3m or other products to clean the fuel system, manifold, tb air plate and oil when ready to change oil
honda makes a kit- gm does too~

we found seafoam does all the jobs with one product at a good price and value for your dollars
Its also used in the machines shops charge 100-150 bucks to hook into the fuel line for half an hour and slowly add cleaner thats mixed 50/50 with gas

anyone needs a cat: ck our vendor excelerate,,from plain to hi flow version--under $300 iirc not 1000$$

Comet2404

Well I'm just suspicious that it started happening RIGHT after my SF treatment. My 02 TLS has 147K on it now. It was running just fine, no odd noises, nothing suspicious at all. I do my SF treatment and then start hearing all these God awful rattles and grinding noises. Sure enough, it's my cat. And I won't put any part on my car that isn't authentic Honda. No LKQ, no aftermarket part.... I always use genuine Acura parts from my dealer, installed by my dealer. I saved the old cat for inspection too.

Karanx7

iTrader: (2)

I had 170k of only 87 octane use. I switched to 91 and seafoamed the car multiple times. No issues.

It's most probably a coincidence, as I don't see how the seafoam could hurt the cat.

01tl4tl

using it wrong- as in WAY too much at one moment-- can be bad

otherwise there is nothing to hurt--it atomizes with the fuel and combust,,not as well as gas,, but it still gets thru the system fine..loosening by liquifying carbon on the way just as its designed to,,and system pressure at rpm blows out all the residue

says right on the can and all over the website--will NOT harm O2 or cat
and cleans both of them~

depending on your afterdrive you may have stressed the cat, but should not be able to hurt it if you were under redline rpm..4000 in lower driving gear is suggested for 5 minutes after engine stabilizes- that will ensure all is cleaered out and none stuck on O2 sensor to cause a cel

can you describer the amount of seafoam used where and method--wait time -restart and afterdrive procedures,,
see if we can spot something... or if you already had 150kmiles --it was ready for a cat

what did the dealer have to say was cause of failure?

TLer trash

Save the cat for more than inspection! Recyclers are paying $125-$150 for common gm convertors with less content than your old one. That was a month ago. The prices seem to go up as gas prices rise. Do an internet search, and ask any mechanics you know. Don't sell it to the first bidder, you'll likely get numbers all over the map. It doesn't matter if the substrate is broken into chunks as long as most of it is still in the shell. The last time gas was near $4, I was getting $200 for an average convertor; the honda ones are worth even more.

01tl4tl

no wonder they steal them off raised trucks and higher cars...
with an 18volt sawzall... talk about gone in 60 seconds!

147kmiles on that cat I would consider good useage from ,and being able to get some cash back,.whats better than that

nollid

Not to doubt anyone's expertise, but when I was speaking to someone they made it sound crazy to use a can per half tank and it was too much. They suggested using 1/5 of a can per full tank because the stuff works too good and using too much can clean out everything, leaving parts dry. An interesting take, and just wanted to know if you have considered this side of the coin?

webmastir

via the actual website:
http://www.seafoamsales.com/how-to-u...treatment.html

/waits for 01tl4tl

MilwaukeeDave

iTrader: (3)

I used seafoam and then got a flat tire. Must be the seafoam..

peewizzle

^^ LOLz

my girlfriend broke up with me--must be the seafoam...

hugous

Hello guys:
I just seafoamed my TL 99 this evening and the CEL is light up now. I know its a common problem but I am not sure its because the misfire cylinders or O2 sensor. 01tl4tl said sth about pulling the clock fuse, can anyone show me hows the process?
I also forgot to reconnect the vac hose before running the aggressive run After that, I realized and put it back, is it OK for my car? Thanks

01tl4tl

the CLOCK fuse is on the passenger end of dash
remove it for 1 minute and reinsert
ecu has been reset!

not surprised you got a light!

Do you have multi cyl misfire codes before seafoam? thats usually 1 coil bad
seafoam wont fix that

if you did TB/Vac method also throw a can in half a tank
that gets all the fuel system

see other foam `diy for 03` ,works for all years and has best pics and info

01tl4tl

if O2 got dirty during drive, it will self clean over a few days use
how old are your plugs? more than 70 is ripe for new ngk irids

hugous

Thanks man, CEL turn off after I reset it and never turn on again. I also changed all spark plugs and engine oil last weekend, the car is great now.

The point is I read somewhere in this thread that if I do the vac line method, it just seafoam the 3 front cylinders. Is it right? Can anybody here confirm ?

TL-4LIFE

So should you do the seafoam in the intake and the gas tank at the same time? Add the seafoam to the engine oil as well for the trifecta? Or is there a certain order to do the seafoam treatment in?

Skirmich

Nope just make sure that if you do OIL, Seafoam weakens it and you need to change it ASAP in less than 100miles... (FROM Seafoam Directions)

utvol9903

Hey about to seafoam my car again. I just put 16oz in half a tank of gas and was going to use deep creep in the vac port but I cant find it anymore they just have the seafoam liquid and seafoam spray. Is the spray the same as deep creep now?

Also I am going on a trip in a week about 12 hr drive should I wait till after the trip to seafoam or go for it before hand? I guess I dont want to gunk up my spark plugs prior to the trip. I have an 03 TLS with 150K. Im pretty sure my plugs have been replaced before but when im not sure maybe at the 60k or 105k service

lilharv321

Just picked up a 99 tl with 115k. Oil was changed the day before i bought it. Figured I'd do a little routine maintenance and try out seafoam for the first time. I cleaned the egr ports and checked the plugs. The plugs looked fine. I picked up two cans of seafoam. Btw pep boys has them on special for 7 bucks. I did one full can in about 16 gallons of fuel. And half a can in the oil and the other half through the vacuum at the throttle body. Started up and blew like everyone else's. I'm going to monitor my oil and when it gets dirty ill change it again. No engine lights. Drove fine after a few min. Hopefully I'll see an increase in fuel mileage.

lilharv321

The most frequently asked question about using Sea Foam is as follows: “After using Sea Foam in my oil, fuel, or through the vacuum line (to clean deposits from the combustion chamber) do I need to change my oil?” The short answer is: No you don’t have to change your oil after using Sea Foam in any application.See more information about using Sea Foam in oil in the How To Use section of our web site

When using Sea Foam in your fuel or through the vacuum line for carbon cleaning your oil does not need to be changed. Using Sea Foam in your oil, at 1 ½ ounces per quart, is a safe way to clean a crankcase, quiet noisy lifters as you drive. Sea Foam is not a chemical engine flush and therefore, it will not damage internal engine components or plug the oil pick up screen. Sea Foam is a petroleum blend with no chemical additives and is safe for long term cleaning or short term pre-service cleaning.

Sea Foam is a blend of highly refined additive oils and is compatible with all motor oils including synthetics. It is safe for all internal engine components and will not affect any seals, gaskets or o-rings. Sea Foam cleans oil deposits and varnish in your crankcase by safely/slowly re liquefying the old oil residue so contaminants may flow and be filtered. The longer Sea Foam is in your oil the cleaner your crankcase will become. When adding Sea Foam to clean oil, for long term maintenance cleaning, you must check your oil periodically for color and clarity, when your oil looks dirty change it. Because you added cleaning oil (Sea Foam) to your oil you may have to change oil before the expected service interval.

When adding Sea Foam to dirty oil before an oil change, for best results use 1 ½ ounces per quart of oil at least 100 miles before oil is changed.

silverbullitt

I have used seafoam in the past-( through the intake-not crankcase( Not recommended- unless you have sticky valves- noisy valvetrain..) and felt the difference..but I questioned- If in fact its removing carbon buildup..why is the smoke that comes out white/gray- and not dark gray/blackish.. especially with the fuel burning it- which should enhance the darker gray smoke.. maybe I'm over thinking- but It made me somewhat skeptical about the real action of seafoam in the intake, valves, ports being cleaned or a gimmick...? And yet I know I felt the diff. when I did it the 1st 2 times.. the last time very little smoke came out..

skwidstyle2

seafoamed through the tb vac port ...STEPS TAKEN IN ORDER haha... drove car for ten min- came home (turned off for about 5 min) seafoamed took about ten min to suck up 3/4th can, no probs- turned car off for 13 min- turned on and nice huge white smoke for about 1 min 30 sec, drove around for 20 min very spirited five 0 to 80's at wot & a good 13 min freeway at 4500-5k rpm ... came home!!! main concern - am i good to go with my BRAND NEW spark plugs ? dont wanna fork out another $50 but from what i've read they will be fine since i did the proper post-driving, correct?

Nicks2001tl

You are good to go. Just make sure to properly torque the spark plugs (13 lbs or 1/2-3/4 turn)and buy a packet of thread lube from the auto store.

_jcmd_

Ok so today I sea foamed the car by the gas tank method, followed all the procedure that it said (I bottle for a quarter tank left whatever whatever ) and the thing is after I let it sit and went back to turn it on, turns on perfectly but no smoke at all, I even went for the spirited drive you guys said to do and still had no smoke at all. Any ideas why this happened or what could have gone wrong in the procedure? Thanks in advance

3.2TLc

Welcome _Jcmd_ !!!
Did ya only put the Seafoam into the gas tank or did ya actually do the procedure using the vac method ?

Using Seafoam in the gas tank will not normally create any noticeable smoke. Smoke from the exhaust always will happen when ya do the vac method through the intake.

_jcmd_

Just by the gas tank, planning to do the vac line soon.
That makes more sense to me. Thank you appreciate your help!

03AcuraTLowner

Have anyone tried the Seafoam for tranny?

01tl4tl

in the gas tank you should NOT get smoke
reason it smokes on vac method is heavy concentration of oils in seafoam hitting cat and oil + heat = smoke!
has nothing to do with carbon!!

some have used `seafoam for trans` on good shifting trans- no slippage- for 100 miles then do a full 3x3 at one time and change the trans external filter
other good choice is motor purr for trans

01tl4tl

if you seafoam the gas two times at one can to half a tank/8 gallons
= seafoam tech supports amount of 2 oz per gal cleaning dose
that will do all the areas that vac port will and many more!

it works slower- over a month versus the instant gratification of blasting the intake valves and pistons with spray... and creating an annoyance to the neighborhood

Nicks2001tl

Since the Honda DW-1 has already cleaners built in to the oil it, there really is no need to add Trans Tune. You should use it only if you are doing a full flush (3x3) or when the tranny is acting up. Drive the 100-200 miles before the fluid change.


Note: Cleaning the solenoids and doing a normal 1x3 will give you the same results.


Double Note: When doing a 3x3 try and scatter it out over a period of a couple of weeks or incorporate it when you do your oil change.

03AcuraTLowner

Thank You!