DIY: Seafoam 2nd GEN TL (sorta) work in progress
10-30-2008, 06:14 AM
#441
the warm up drive before seafoam is 4000 rpm to get real heat into the engine, not just temp on the guage
And the waiting/percolate time should be 10-15 minutes, about as long as it takes to put the vac hose and clamp on, replace engine cover, put tools away, wash hands- time to drive
Note- do not do this in the garage!!! smoke and fumes can be intense
I do a warm up on the freeway, stop and use parking lot on sideroad- do after drive on freeway frontage road so as not to cause a hazard....
Car will continue to run better over the next week as gas runs thru the system
Deep Creep- you hold the straw 1 inch away from the open vac port
Squirt tiny amounts and it will make tornados going in!
repeat the vac and gas in a month or 2, then good for 15k/1 year till next time
ok to throw some in the gas anytime- before trips....
Have fun
And the waiting/percolate time should be 10-15 minutes, about as long as it takes to put the vac hose and clamp on, replace engine cover, put tools away, wash hands- time to drive
Note- do not do this in the garage!!! smoke and fumes can be intense
I do a warm up on the freeway, stop and use parking lot on sideroad- do after drive on freeway frontage road so as not to cause a hazard....
Car will continue to run better over the next week as gas runs thru the system
Deep Creep- you hold the straw 1 inch away from the open vac port
Squirt tiny amounts and it will make tornados going in!
repeat the vac and gas in a month or 2, then good for 15k/1 year till next time
ok to throw some in the gas anytime- before trips....
Have fun
10-30-2008, 06:18 AM
#442
when the fan comes on- step away from the car- no reason to work in the hot blast- when it stops, resume seafoam--its fine to let it run for a minute without adding more,,,lets it get in there and stick to stuff, dissolve gunk etc
then resume deep creep
Make sure to clean the TB plate with it as well
then resume deep creep
Make sure to clean the TB plate with it as well
10-30-2008, 11:43 AM
#444
figure an hour start to finish- from adding to gas, warm up drive- foaming- waiting- driving afterwards
It sounds more difficult that it is
We have a pic of gen3 member with deep creep in his right hand, starbucks drink in the other, happily foaming away~
It sounds more difficult that it is
We have a pic of gen3 member with deep creep in his right hand, starbucks drink in the other, happily foaming away~
10-30-2008, 04:32 PM
#445
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Haha yeah it doesn't sound that difficult, more just getting the amounts/time/driving right to maximize the Seafoam performance. I figure if my father and I can rip a '72 Corvette apart (body off) and put it back together, then I should be able to manage this.
11-03-2008, 06:19 AM
#447
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When you guys remove that vacuum line, does your engine idle pulsate? If I put my finger to cover up the hole it stops pulsating & idles normally. Could this indicate something?
11-03-2008, 06:22 AM
#448
Senior Moderator
No it doesnt indicate any thing. The motor runs on vacuum. If you remove a line that requires it, it may do what you experience. What line did you pull off to get that.
11-03-2008, 08:22 PM
#450
11-09-2008, 04:54 PM
#451
Burning Brakes
Seafoam
Ok, the seafoam I seen at Autozone is added in the fuel tank. My car has never had it. Should I buy it for my 99 TL? And is that the only seafoam that gets added to the gas tank or is there another product that they sell that is recommended?
11-09-2008, 07:50 PM
#452
I like seafoam for the intake manifold vac port and the oil cleaning methods
For the gas I use redline SI-1, and a lot of people use Seafoam in the gas at 2 oz per gal or 1 can to 1/2 tank for cleaning doseage
on plugs- a few days driving after foam- let it blow out all the residue before putting in the nice clean plugs
If you read that can at the parts store it list several of the uses and how to do it- on here we have expanded the details of how to use
remember- slow is better!
If your car doesnt change the rpm or surge when the MAIN vac line is removed- something is very wrong with it! If the engine stumbles while foaming- thumb over the port will fix it- then resume seafoam-slower
For the gas I use redline SI-1, and a lot of people use Seafoam in the gas at 2 oz per gal or 1 can to 1/2 tank for cleaning doseage
on plugs- a few days driving after foam- let it blow out all the residue before putting in the nice clean plugs
If you read that can at the parts store it list several of the uses and how to do it- on here we have expanded the details of how to use
remember- slow is better!
If your car doesnt change the rpm or surge when the MAIN vac line is removed- something is very wrong with it! If the engine stumbles while foaming- thumb over the port will fix it- then resume seafoam-slower
11-09-2008, 08:09 PM
#453
2002 Acura TL-S
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yeah that shit is also known to heat up catylic converters and cause them to deteriorate or however that is spelled...and FAIL, a lil is good, try not to rev too much....
11-09-2008, 09:00 PM
#454
Senior Moderator
270k on mine doing it 2-3 times a year. not one issue
11-10-2008, 11:12 AM
#455
I wish some people would READ the can before they say anything
It says safe for cats- and its been around since 1940 and still in biz!
It also DOES need sustained revs during the hotfoot after drive, to blow out the dissolved gum-varnish-carbon and general combustion byproducts
Note that gasolines with Ethanol 10% really adds to the crud inside the engine
I dont care what you use- but clean the gas and intake systems!!!
plus you will be shocked at what some seafoam in the oil will put into the filter!!
It says safe for cats- and its been around since 1940 and still in biz!
It also DOES need sustained revs during the hotfoot after drive, to blow out the dissolved gum-varnish-carbon and general combustion byproducts
Note that gasolines with Ethanol 10% really adds to the crud inside the engine
I dont care what you use- but clean the gas and intake systems!!!
plus you will be shocked at what some seafoam in the oil will put into the filter!!
01-25-2009, 10:45 PM
#457
any freeway side access road will do, or go out at night when its not busy
The smoke isnt so bad that you have to worry- you can do most of it in the neighborhood for the initial drive minutes - thats when its the heaviest smoke
One ziner managed to get pulled over-
Cop: You know your car is smoking?
Yes Sir I just Seafoamed it-
Cop: Oh seafoam- ok- go ahead
The smoke isnt so bad that you have to worry- you can do most of it in the neighborhood for the initial drive minutes - thats when its the heaviest smoke
One ziner managed to get pulled over-
Cop: You know your car is smoking?
Yes Sir I just Seafoamed it-
Cop: Oh seafoam- ok- go ahead
01-25-2009, 10:46 PM
#458
a little bit of wind is a good idea- clear the air right up
02-10-2009, 01:13 PM
#459
02-10-2009, 06:59 PM
#460
no- it means there was not enough heat in the cat to react with the oils in seafoam~
How did you warm up and add seafoam - and to what vac port?
How did you warm up and add seafoam - and to what vac port?
02-11-2009, 02:22 PM
#461
The Dumb One
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and i was instructed at the dealer to use the vac hose coming off the end of the intake mani.. where it meets the rubber hosing to that goes to the filter...
any idea?
02-11-2009, 02:32 PM
#462
warm from normal drive home and 10 minutes of 4000 rpm driving are way different to the internal engine and exhaust temp- regardless of temp guage
not sure on 99, but should be a larger than normal vac line right at the Throttle Body assembly, possibly on the front side opposite the cable mechanism
It has a squeeze with your fingers type hose clamp on it
Cant miss it, remove engine top plastic cover to access
If you used the PCV hose inlet to the rubber air intake snout, thats less vacuum suction happening
How fast did you put it in??- what rpm- and did you let it sit 5-15 minutes, restart, let stabilize at idle until it revs ok to 2000 then slowly drive at 2000 rpm for a few minutes- smoke will show up then, then once it fells like the engine is running on gas instead of mix, 4000 rpm steady 10 minutes and some 20mph to 50 mph full throttle runs (especially if you have it in the gas tank too- good time to push cleaner thru)
It may take a day or two then you feel better response
First timers repeat in a month or 1500-2000 miles for best results- then good for a year
not sure on 99, but should be a larger than normal vac line right at the Throttle Body assembly, possibly on the front side opposite the cable mechanism
It has a squeeze with your fingers type hose clamp on it
Cant miss it, remove engine top plastic cover to access
If you used the PCV hose inlet to the rubber air intake snout, thats less vacuum suction happening
How fast did you put it in??- what rpm- and did you let it sit 5-15 minutes, restart, let stabilize at idle until it revs ok to 2000 then slowly drive at 2000 rpm for a few minutes- smoke will show up then, then once it fells like the engine is running on gas instead of mix, 4000 rpm steady 10 minutes and some 20mph to 50 mph full throttle runs (especially if you have it in the gas tank too- good time to push cleaner thru)
It may take a day or two then you feel better response
First timers repeat in a month or 1500-2000 miles for best results- then good for a year
02-11-2009, 02:34 PM
#463
you can also use the big brake booster vac line- that goes direct to manifold vac- just pour it in slowly or let suction grab it from a jar, let idle to stabilze- rev a little for blasting action as you pour in the next bit
02-11-2009, 02:43 PM
#464
The Dumb One
iTrader: (1)
warm from normal drive home and 10 minutes of 4000 rpm driving are way different to the internal engine and exhaust temp- regardless of temp guage
not sure on 99, but should be a larger than normal vac line right at the Throttle Body assembly, possibly on the front side opposite the cable mechanism
It has a squeeze with your fingers type hose clamp on it
Cant miss it, remove engine top plastic cover to access
If you used the PCV hose inlet to the rubber air intake snout, thats less vacuum suction happening
How fast did you put it in??- what rpm- and did you let it sit 5-15 minutes, restart, let stabilize at idle until it revs ok to 2000 then slowly drive at 2000 rpm for a few minutes- smoke will show up then, then once it fells like the engine is running on gas instead of mix, 4000 rpm steady 10 minutes and some 20mph to 50 mph full throttle runs (especially if you have it in the gas tank too- good time to push cleaner thru)
It may take a day or two then you feel better response
First timers repeat in a month or 1500-2000 miles for best results- then good for a year
not sure on 99, but should be a larger than normal vac line right at the Throttle Body assembly, possibly on the front side opposite the cable mechanism
It has a squeeze with your fingers type hose clamp on it
Cant miss it, remove engine top plastic cover to access
If you used the PCV hose inlet to the rubber air intake snout, thats less vacuum suction happening
How fast did you put it in??- what rpm- and did you let it sit 5-15 minutes, restart, let stabilize at idle until it revs ok to 2000 then slowly drive at 2000 rpm for a few minutes- smoke will show up then, then once it fells like the engine is running on gas instead of mix, 4000 rpm steady 10 minutes and some 20mph to 50 mph full throttle runs (especially if you have it in the gas tank too- good time to push cleaner thru)
It may take a day or two then you feel better response
First timers repeat in a month or 1500-2000 miles for best results- then good for a year
sounds like everything you explained was my exact process.. but i figured driving 80 for 30 min. on the interstate was just as heating as reving for 10 min.... but i did everything else to the T and had zero smoke...
could it have just been clean? i do use 93 and 95 octane fuel
02-11-2009, 03:00 PM
#465
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sounds like everything you explained was my exact process.. but i figured driving 80 for 30 min. on the interstate was just as heating as reving for 10 min.... but i did everything else to the T and had zero smoke...
could it have just been clean? i do use 93 and 95 octane fuel
could it have just been clean? i do use 93 and 95 octane fuel
02-11-2009, 03:34 PM
#466
The Dumb One
iTrader: (1)
93 is the normal "premium" in LA
but when you get closer to the tracks.. there are a couple pumps that offer 95..
none in the city, unless its at small mom and pop stores (which i doubt)
i dont really notice a difference between the two..
91 is the lowest i've ever put.. wouldnt touch 89 or 87
but when you get closer to the tracks.. there are a couple pumps that offer 95..
none in the city, unless its at small mom and pop stores (which i doubt)
i dont really notice a difference between the two..
91 is the lowest i've ever put.. wouldnt touch 89 or 87
02-11-2009, 03:44 PM
#467
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sounds like everything you explained was my exact process.. but i figured driving 80 for 30 min. on the interstate was just as heating as reving for 10 min.... but i did everything else to the T and had zero smoke...
could it have just been clean? i do use 93 and 95 octane fuel
could it have just been clean? i do use 93 and 95 octane fuel
02-11-2009, 07:35 PM
#468
as I said the smoke is largely a reaction of heat and oils
You may not see huge clouds that some do at idle while adding it, but on the road there is a trail behind you -especially if you get on the gas hard--ask a friend to follow you and see
you didnt say 80- simply said drive home from work~
thats like when my wife complained the cruise control didnt work above 89 on the maxima- and it disturbed her commute home!
had to go adjust the cable so it would hold higher speeds~ nice commute eh~~~
You may not see huge clouds that some do at idle while adding it, but on the road there is a trail behind you -especially if you get on the gas hard--ask a friend to follow you and see
you didnt say 80- simply said drive home from work~
thats like when my wife complained the cruise control didnt work above 89 on the maxima- and it disturbed her commute home!
had to go adjust the cable so it would hold higher speeds~ nice commute eh~~~
02-11-2009, 08:09 PM
#469
Drifting
02-11-2009, 10:15 PM
#470
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93 is the normal "premium" in LA
but when you get closer to the tracks.. there are a couple pumps that offer 95..
none in the city, unless its at small mom and pop stores (which i doubt)
i dont really notice a difference between the two..
91 is the lowest i've ever put.. wouldnt touch 89 or 87
but when you get closer to the tracks.. there are a couple pumps that offer 95..
none in the city, unless its at small mom and pop stores (which i doubt)
i dont really notice a difference between the two..
91 is the lowest i've ever put.. wouldnt touch 89 or 87
02-12-2009, 06:51 AM
#471
no worries totaled- she totalled the maxima and we got the TL
It has no issues regarding enough cruise control speed limit~
I did become concerned when demonstrating vtec and the upgraded brakes to her,,, vtec hit and she says Oh yes- I like that sound!
and under braking she mentions it does very well from 80 to 20 when needed
It has no issues regarding enough cruise control speed limit~
I did become concerned when demonstrating vtec and the upgraded brakes to her,,, vtec hit and she says Oh yes- I like that sound!
and under braking she mentions it does very well from 80 to 20 when needed
02-12-2009, 07:01 PM
#472
The Dumb One
iTrader: (1)
well congrats to seafoam.
i realized that i only used maybe a 5th of the can instead of a 3rd. "i was scared of putting too much..
so this time i put 1/3 (of what was left) and let it sit a little longer..
and wouldnt ya know it.. little shit bag gave me a Check engine light... now wtf am i sposed to do.. i thought this crud was safe
by the way it did smoke this time.. a little
but i was expecting its little unwanted gift it gave me =(
i realized that i only used maybe a 5th of the can instead of a 3rd. "i was scared of putting too much..
so this time i put 1/3 (of what was left) and let it sit a little longer..
and wouldnt ya know it.. little shit bag gave me a Check engine light... now wtf am i sposed to do.. i thought this crud was safe
by the way it did smoke this time.. a little
but i was expecting its little unwanted gift it gave me =(
02-12-2009, 09:25 PM
#473
A; not using enough product- use whole 16 oz. can in the intake vac port!
and a whole can in 1 /2 tank of gas-did you read any of this diy?
B: Not hot foot enough after drive causes loading of crud on O2 sensor
No sweat- drive it a day or two and it will self clean and clear
OR
pull the clock fuse, #13 on passenger side in cabin
that resets the ECU and it will do a self check and relearn the new clean engine habits
Seafoam work best when used following at least some of the directions~
Clean the thottle butterfly plate too- carb cleaner spray is fine for that
and a whole can in 1 /2 tank of gas-did you read any of this diy?
B: Not hot foot enough after drive causes loading of crud on O2 sensor
No sweat- drive it a day or two and it will self clean and clear
OR
pull the clock fuse, #13 on passenger side in cabin
that resets the ECU and it will do a self check and relearn the new clean engine habits
Seafoam work best when used following at least some of the directions~
Clean the thottle butterfly plate too- carb cleaner spray is fine for that
02-12-2009, 09:26 PM
#474
percolate time after adding all the foam is 5 to 15 minutes and no more or the engine and exhaust cool too much
02-12-2009, 09:34 PM
#475
The Dumb One
iTrader: (1)
A; not using enough product- use whole 16 oz. can in the intake vac port!
and a whole can in 1 /2 tank of gas-did you read any of this diy?
B: Not hot foot enough after drive causes loading of crud on O2 sensor
No sweat- drive it a day or two and it will self clean and clear
OR
pull the clock fuse, #13 on passenger side in cabin
that resets the ECU and it will do a self check and relearn the new clean engine habits
Seafoam work best when used following at least some of the directions~
Clean the thottle butterfly plate too- carb cleaner spray is fine for that
and a whole can in 1 /2 tank of gas-did you read any of this diy?
B: Not hot foot enough after drive causes loading of crud on O2 sensor
No sweat- drive it a day or two and it will self clean and clear
OR
pull the clock fuse, #13 on passenger side in cabin
that resets the ECU and it will do a self check and relearn the new clean engine habits
Seafoam work best when used following at least some of the directions~
Clean the thottle butterfly plate too- carb cleaner spray is fine for that
can warns not to use more than 1/3 of can at a time through intake vac port... this is the only time ive ever read somebody say use the entire can through there...
i read the DIY but whats more self explanitory then the back of the can.. do you HAVE to use cleaner in the gas and/or oil when doing the vacum clean, those are just seperate methods of cleaning different parts of the engine/car right?
02-13-2009, 10:51 AM
#476
the can lacks room to describe fully- Look at a spray can of Deep Creep (seafoam) and it has many more uses and longer descriptions of how to use--at engine idle- at 2500rpm--
Page1 first post of this thread says buy 3 cans- 1 for gas tank- 1 for intake vac and 1 for oil- and most of the post here refer to full can in vac port or as much as it would take and started running like it was ready to shut off- then you shut it off.
No you dont have to do the oil right now- wait till ready to change it.
Do the tank and vac port together since they work together
Page1 first post of this thread says buy 3 cans- 1 for gas tank- 1 for intake vac and 1 for oil- and most of the post here refer to full can in vac port or as much as it would take and started running like it was ready to shut off- then you shut it off.
No you dont have to do the oil right now- wait till ready to change it.
Do the tank and vac port together since they work together
02-13-2009, 03:00 PM
#477
The Dumb One
iTrader: (1)
the can lacks room to describe fully- Look at a spray can of Deep Creep (seafoam) and it has many more uses and longer descriptions of how to use--at engine idle- at 2500rpm--
Page1 first post of this thread says buy 3 cans- 1 for gas tank- 1 for intake vac and 1 for oil- and most of the post here refer to full can in vac port or as much as it would take and started running like it was ready to shut off- then you shut it off.
No you dont have to do the oil right now- wait till ready to change it.
Do the tank and vac port together since they work together
Page1 first post of this thread says buy 3 cans- 1 for gas tank- 1 for intake vac and 1 for oil- and most of the post here refer to full can in vac port or as much as it would take and started running like it was ready to shut off- then you shut it off.
No you dont have to do the oil right now- wait till ready to change it.
Do the tank and vac port together since they work together
as far as i know the seafoam (especially in my small amount)
cant acutally damage anything right?
02-13-2009, 04:55 PM
#478
all that happened is crud on the O2 sensor which will self clear as you drive
Or pull the clock fuse as I said before
The seafoam can does NOT say limit 1/3 of a can, thats an absolute minimum to get any results
No way you hurt anything- it simply means you need to do it right and get the crud all cleaned out
Or pull the clock fuse as I said before
The seafoam can does NOT say limit 1/3 of a can, thats an absolute minimum to get any results
No way you hurt anything- it simply means you need to do it right and get the crud all cleaned out
02-13-2009, 04:56 PM
#479
you read the can- it says safe
02-13-2009, 05:13 PM
#480
What your problem is?
Damn, this thread is still going? I would think if one had just read the first 11 pages, one would have all the information one would need.... Happy motoring....