gambitnuke

iTrader: (3)

Just used it in the oil for the first time. Drove around and got an oil change shortly after. Engine seems smoother and much more silent.
I've always used synthetic oil and never any other treatments.
Think I will continue to use this stuff.

01tl4tl

do the gas and vac port- they give it tune up in a can!

Razzi

the last time changed the oil, i threw in 5 pints. should i leak some out before tossing in a pint of seafoam? cause 6 pints of stuff runnin round in there doesnt sound like a good idea

01tl4tl

well its 5 quarts of engine oil- if you used pints there is no oil in there!!!

the addition of 8 ounces 1/2 pint of high detergent oils (seafoam) will not put it way over full or cause other problems

I am currently doing a week long cleaning test- installed new filter and added seafoam to oil
250 miles so far, good cleaning action showing on dipstick- oil is getting dirtier
Now its time to change the oil and filter

Razzi

was reading the thread and got to your post where you got confused how many ounces was in a pint and you kept saying 8 8 8 8 and somehow pint got stuck in my head.

anyway, sounds like 8 ounces shouldnt blow my motor to pieces

01tl4tl

yes it was totally my fault for saying they make 8 ounce cans-8 oz is a pint etc
sorry everyone

As long as you are putting 5 Quarts of engine oil in, you are fine

Some people use 16 ounces of seafoam in old oil, and idle in driveway 5-10 minutes.
I went with half a can- 8 ounces and a new oil filter- driving it for a week then change.
seafoams homepage says its fine to do- they have made this stuff since 1940, so they have a good handle on what it does- where- and always finding new uses

What to do with the other half a can?
some in the mower gas can to keep is fresh and keeps the mower protected when not in use
Put it in 1/4 tank of gas in the car,,,,do a pre trip manifold cleaning...
They keep boosting the price on it, now 8.99 at zone so I try to be efficient in its use.
put the little bit of deep creep left over to use lubing door hinges in the house!

gshantanu

Today I was going to do the second iteration of seafoaming my TL (I already did once 2-3K miles ago).

When I started my car with the temporary hose attached to the vac line (for sucking seafoam)..the idle did not stabilize, RPM kept doing a periodic fluctuation between 1K - 1.5K or something. This is all before engine sucked any seafoam. I then disconnected my temporary hose, and reconnected the original hose coming from the engine. Turned on the engine again, and everything seemed OK. I repeated my actions to see if this was random, but I consistently found my RPM to fluctuate whenever I connected the temporary hose. I eventually gave up and just added the seafoam to the gas tank. Does anyone know what this could mean? Anything to do with EGR ports?

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

When you connect the temporary hose, you are losing suction on the vac system I think. One time when I was working on the TPS, I disconnected that vac line to be able to get to it. When I was done, I forgot to plug in the vac line and it was doing the same thing you're describing. Plugged it back in and it is fine. If it idles like that when everything is plugged in right, try cleaning out the Idle Air Control Valve.

01tl4tl

Its called a Vacuum leak!!! and occurs when you remove the MAIN vac line where its pulling over 20 inches of vac!!- that will make the car car run funny.
If it doesnt do that--- you have another rpoblem to look at

Some cars I have foamed, you have to leave the stock hose partially covering the vac port!
If it does it bad while putting in product- place thumb over vac port and it instantly stabilizes- then use less amount at a time~

Try using Deep Creep- seafoam in its aerosol spray can version- with a straw to dispense thru!!- way easier to control the flow- makes it slow and small amounts- while the can method with hose, you may suck the can empty in less than a minute~
5-10-15 minutes is best! slower is better and small amount of product at a time allows it to cling to crud and buildup, make it soft goo, and then the blow out drive does exactly that- blows dissolved carbon and other residue and blows it out the exhaust

you can try a squirt bottle with seafoam liquid to make a direct thin stream into your current hose setup-
or use a clear plastic bottle so you can see whats happening- the seafoam gets sucked up about an inch away from the hose when engine running at idle

fsttyms1

I prefer using a Nitro fuel dispenser (found at hobby stores for like 5-10 bucks)




Put fuel in there, take off one of the breather tubes before the TB and slowly squirt it in. (there i said it, thats what i use) Makes for a simple seafoam'ing.

gshantanu

Thanks for the replies. It's a relief to know that it is not something wrong in my engine causing this. Last time when I seafoamed, I did not see this RPM fluctuation.

I guess I'll try two things:

- seafoaming with stock hose partially covering the port
- seafoaming using deep creep

newperson

iTrader: (2)

Why is a "fast" suck bad? When I did it with the "tube dipped into the bottle while opening throttle so it doesn't stall" method, I let it suck 3/4 bottle in under 1 minute. I hope I'm just imagining this but it seems I hear a "hum" now from the engine area when I'm inside the car.

01tl4tl

you have to allow for time- letting seafoam catch onto the crud and soak in- then dissolve stuff and turn to goo- then blast out
Giving it a few minutes is just reasonable!
I have heard stories of super fast suction causing engine stall and massive blowback of seafoam all over the installer and the engine
So do it slow and thats better- call seafoam and verify if you dont trust us

kris- try your bottle on the main vac port- see if that works even better than just any old line! We know that vac port is getting all 6 cylinders and the intake manifold clean

Thats an example of using a clear bottle so you can see whats happening
I like deep creep because same srice/same amount, and its fun~

01tl4tl

how could you read any of this thread and hold the throttle open and do the can?
Everyone should be able to do this at engine idle speed

I mistakenly thought gen3 would need that with fly by wire- but it works perfect without any throttle- just idle speed and go slow with the seafoam
We have a great pic of gen3 owner- deep creep in one hand and starbucks in the other- too simple~
Throttle rev is only if you put in way to much too fast and need more speed to keep running- otherwise IDLE speed only!!!!!
Seafoam does burn but not as well as gas- it does burn but that probably your noise

Did you even do the warm up drive and hot foot burn-off drive afterwards?

fsttyms1

Tom i use the one of the 2 openings on the intake between the filter and the TB. (not just any old line). They are large enough to stick the filler tube in and slowly squirt. That way it gets to clean the TB, iac, and all 6 cyl as well.

01tl4tl

not like when we were all using the wrong line that only got 3 cylinders~~

All I am saying kris- is use your current settup bottle- and TRY, just try- the main vac port as part of the procedure.
Its really fun making tornados from an inch away!

Question: I usually spray TB cleaner thru the TB throat- is that getting the IAC for me?

Changed my oil yesterday-have to cut the filter open to inspect-
1 week driving/260 miles on 6 oz seafoam in oil- on NEW filter for cleaning.
Oil was blackblackblack! at draining

car did not blow up- valves did not rattle- pistons did not dissolve....

newperson

iTrader: (2)

Somewhere in these 11 pages I read that you have to play with the throttle so it doesn't stall. So how would I get seafoam out of the engine?

Yes I warmed up (needle was in the middle) and did like 3-4k rpms constant on the highway in 3rd gear.

newperson

iTrader: (2)

Is it possible that if you get the seafoam in too quickly through the air intake/vacuum that it is now in the oil? If so I need to change my oil quick...have already put on some miles since the initial seafoam application.

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

No, the vac line isn't getting to the oil.. when you add it to the crank case it goes in with the rest of the oil.

newperson

iTrader: (2)

So if I put it in the vac. line too fast, where is it ending up if it's not being burned off?

01tl4tl

its shooting thru the system and out the exhaust

When you add it slowly- you give it a chance to adhere to the crud and soften -loosen it.
Then the exhaust blows it out

We used to use liquid seafoam, and that may require throttle IF you add it too fast-
just to catch the stumble. Gen3 discovered its possible to do the entire project with no throttle needed- they have no cables- fly by wire system, so going slow made it stay running all the time

BUT
if you use seafoam in its aerosol can version- sold as DEEP CREEP, its got a spray can top and straw- autozone carries it

Makes for excellent controlled application and max results

guage in the middle-- and warm engine are different- 4000 rpm 10 minutes driving will warm the engine and exhaust the way we need it for seafoaming

only read the last few pages for best directions

bibledriver

^SEAFOAM SOLDIER^ - hes the one to give the latest on it.

I miss your seafoam avatar! Actually, you should put that in your description line. ^SEAFOAM SOLDIER^ that would be great!

SLushhYYY

iTrader: (8)

So is it mandatory to get an oil change after seafoaming?

P.S After foaming only throttle body and Gasoline tank?

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

01tl4tl

IF you add it to the engine oil thru the oil filler cap hole= you change the oil and filter

IF you do the gas tank and/or the intake manifold vac port, it cleans those areas and does not get into the oil
well- technically yes - via normal ring blowby- a tiny amount may enter the oil- its ok

01tl4tl

Im using Deep Creep- seafoam in a paint spray can- on the throttle cables- to get lube inside them, and moving parts on the car and my bike- free up linkages, makes many things work better than ever!

thats the stuff to use for the intake vac method- control amount of seafoam with accuracy

SLushhYYY

iTrader: (8)

Do you have to fill up after putting the seafoam in the gas?

01tl4tl

NO-dont fill the tank!!
max strength of cleaner to gas, 2 oz per gal is what we want

You should put 1 can, 16 ounces, of seafoam in 1/2 tank= 8 gallons of gas

drive it down to the low fuel light, then refill as normal

newperson

iTrader: (2)

What I'm asking is if I put the non-deep creep in the vac line really fast (e.g. 3/4 bottle in under 1 minute) is it possible it's in the oil (and diluting it) since you just said technically some does get into the oil?

As soon as I did the seafoam, the car felt great. But days later the car starting making a humming sound (coincides with rpms) and it feels like I have a significant loss of power and it feels rough (as in, the vibration that you feel on the gas pedal when you try to accelerate). The hum makes me think it's a vacuum leak, but I'm not a mechanic so don't know what else could be wrong.

I guess I just have to do an oil change to find out....

01tl4tl

did you use the vac PORT at the throttle boby? not a vac line on the side of the fender?
If you dosed it hard- did you drive it hard immediatly afterwards to get rid of the carbon?
Its possible that the plugs got fouled if not driven afterwards.

Redo vac method with correct timing/amount and drive after
See if that helps- and pull a plug to see if its loaded up

No- the oil change is not required with the heavy dose.
I was talking about micro amounts of oil- in 7500 miles a TL uses less than .3 of a qt
PCV system routes unburned vapors back thru that metal tube to the intake rubber snout

check the vac hose clamp got put back on and the end of the hose is good condition and tight fit.
Spraying carb cleaner at vac connections with engine running will spot vac leaks

01tl4tl

seafoam does not DILUTE the oil, it is high detergent oils itself!
Only if you dose the crankcase-engine oil with it- do you need to change the oil and filter.
I just did the method of replace oil filter, add 1/2 can seafoam and drive 100 miles, change oil and filter.
Made a big differance in amount of crud in the filter at change...

turbo tecnica

Picked up a liquid can of Seafoam, as well as a spray can of Deep Creep this weekend at Autozone. I am planning on doing the treatment this coming weekend to my '01 TL with 106k on it. I am trying to give it a good tune up... I just replaced the air filter this weekend. I am going to pick up some spark plugs (correct ones - NGK Iridium IX's) and change the oil this weekend as well after the 'foaming. I checked your #149 post 01tl4tl to see the vacuum port I should be using for the vac part of the treatment. I should have around 1/2 a tank of gas this weekend when I do it... so would I be good using the full can of Deep Creep in the vac. port, 1/2 the liquid in the gas, and 1/2 in crankcase? Do the procedure (driving etc.), then change the oil. Do the sparkplugs say... 2-3 days afterwards to ensure everything has burned off and won't gunk up the new plugs. How does this sound?

fsttyms1

I personally use 1 full can in the vac line and 1 full can in the gas. When its time for a oil change (when i usually seafoam every thing) 1 full can in the crank case as well.

clue036

Turbo from what I've gathered from reading thru this thread you would want to use a can in the tank and a can in the crankcase. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

I see your from Norton. How far is that from Boston? I was planning on doing all the same stuff you are too. Maybe we could link up.

turbo tecnica

So it sounds like maybe I should pick up another can... so I can do 1 full can in everything - one deep creep in vac. line, one full in gas tank, and one full in crankcase? I wasn't sure the mix levels for the gas and oil, that's why I was leaning towards half a can each.

clue036 - Norton is about 40 mins from Boston, south down Rt. 495

01tl4tl

how much in gas depends on tank level- you want 2 oz product per gallon of gas in the tank 1 can = 1/2 tank gas
OIl- if you are going to use it in driveway, 5 minutes at idle- then a full can.
Or add 1/2 can and drive 50 -100 miles and change oil&filter

turbo tecnica

I will have about 1/2 a tank of gas at the weekend, so I will use 1 can in the gas tank. For the oil, is it okay to do it at the same time as the vac. line? I was planning on driving for 10~ minutes to warm the car up, then shutting it off. Pop the vac. line off and hook another up to the Deep Creep can, and do that procedure (small sprays over a course of 10-15 minutes until can is gone, then shutting car off for 15 minutes. Start back up and go for a spirited drive to blow out the carbon). Should I put the Seafoam into the oil before I do the vac. procedure, and when I get back from the "smoke show" drive change the oil & filter?

5daddy13

Don't put in the oil unless you are planning on following-up with an oil change within 15-20 miles. Definitely wouldn't put it in the oil prior to the spirited drive after doing the intake. Put it in the oil after rest of SF treatment.
I know this is a long thread, but if you will read all of it you will find out everything you need to know about SFing your car.
In fact, maybe the moderators could clean it up so that it would only include the info needed to perform the DIY. Just an idea.

turbo tecnica

Thanks for the input. I've been following along with what some of the knowledgeable people have been recommending and planning on going with that. I wasn't sure if I should put it in the oil prior to doing the vac. system 'burn out'. I was planning on changing the oil anyways, so I figured I could do it all in one shot. What it looks like is that I will do the vac/intake system and gas at the same time, and then after my spirited burn out drive is over with, come back and add the SF to the crankcase so I can change the oil shortly after.

01tl4tl

thats the safest way to do it

I did test the method of: new oil filter, add 1/2 can seafoam and drive 150 miles, used vtec a few times, drove normal, then changed oil and filter
Nothing wierd happened,,, except lots of crud was now in the new filter~