Building a custom exhaust

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Old 03-06-2014, 04:10 PM
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Building a custom exhaust

Hey guys. I just ordered some DC sports performance headers, along with a few other goodies. but I figured while I'm at it I'll build my own custom exhaust.

Goals:
1. much lighter than stock
2. No drone
3. Power gain (Not expecting much, I know a lot of engineering goes into building a proper performance exhaust system)
4. Only the exhaust tips will be visible from behind the car. I do NOT like being able to see muffler.
5. This exhaust does not have to last very long. I am keeping the car for another 2 or 3 years MAX and I live in an area with NO road salting and only 5 or 6 rainy days a year. Stock exhaust will be re-installed prior to sale.
6. as little money as possible!
7. Not incredibly loud. Louder than stock is fine but I don't want people to hear it from a mile away.

I will be going mild steel but I understand the need for heat retention. I need ideas for this. Ceramic coating is expensive and not preferred as I want to do as much as possible myself. Maybe a high temp paint and some sort of header wrap?

I also have no idea where to start looking for resonators that will keep drone to a minimum. I would assume there are a lot of factors that go into this and a universal application might not exist. maybe something custom made?

I also want to go with a single muffler if possible. for less weight/cost. any suggestions?

I'm considering a single exit exhaust with a fake tip on the driver side so I don't have an empty exhaust cut out. For weight and simplicity.

Looking forward to responses, thanks guys!
Old 03-06-2014, 04:21 PM
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I just got done reading a tech article about custom exhaust builds. it appears resonators are different than what I thought they were. I though they were tuned to our engine's exhaust frequencies and designed specifically to eliminate offensive tones. apparently they are just smaller mufflers placed further up the exhaust stream.
Old 03-06-2014, 04:49 PM
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a resonator is not a smaller muffler.

a resonator uses sound frequencies to cancel out sound.
a muffler uses a different technique and usually has some sort of padding to "muffle"

a resonator is long and skinny while a muffler is more square-ish

Last edited by justnspace; 03-06-2014 at 04:52 PM.
Old 03-06-2014, 10:50 PM
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From my understanding those are two different styles of mufflers.
Old 03-06-2014, 11:48 PM
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^ Not really a resonator cancels certain frequencies (Drone) while a muffler just well muffles sound in general (Lower DBA)...
The 2 things aren't the same..


Remove a Resonator and Leave Good Mufflers = Drone, Lower Exhaust Note.
Remove Mufflers and Leave the Resonator = No Drone, Higher Exhaust Note.


See? If you install a Resonator it wont lower your DBAs it will only cancel out drone and some other frequencies which makes the exhaust vibrate.

Last edited by Skirmich; 03-06-2014 at 11:50 PM.
Old 03-07-2014, 06:59 AM
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Good too know, I ran my car for a day with no mufflers, but kept the resonator, is that similar to the sound I could expect running a similar configuration with 2.5" mild steel? Or will the different material and diameter change the tone significantly?
Old 03-07-2014, 07:02 AM
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different material will resonate differently.

for example, tap on something hollow, then tap on something solid.
Old 03-07-2014, 07:11 AM
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also, I highly suggest you go to a exhaust shop that specializes in MANDREL bent pipes.
if you go to an exhaust shop that "Crush bends" you havent improved anything over stock.

if you're willing to go single exit, bump that MOTHERFUCKER up to 3inches!!!
you'll sacrifice sound for MAJOR power!

Modding a car takes patience and compromises.
if you arent willing to compromise, keep your car stock.
Old 03-07-2014, 07:52 AM
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I say 2.5 not because I don't want to sacrifice sound, but because I don't want to add extra weight, that and every well written tech article I've seen recommends a 2.5 in exhaust for the power levels I will be making.

The fact that of all the exhaust manufacturers for our cars, ATLP, Comptech, tanabe and magniflow and whoever else. I've never seen a 3 inch exhaust, and some of them are even smaller than 2.5 inch, is a pretty good indication that 3 inch is unnecessary at best, and could possibly result in a loss of low end torque at worse.

Also all bends will be mandril bent. all 2 of them, haha!
Old 03-07-2014, 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by laid67
I say 2.5 not because I don't want to sacrifice sound, but because I don't want to add extra weight, that and every well written tech article I've seen recommends a 2.5 in exhaust for the power levels I will be making.

The fact that of all the exhaust manufacturers for our cars, ATLP, Comptech, tanabe and magniflow and whoever else. I've never seen a 3 inch exhaust, and some of them are even smaller than 2.5 inch, is a pretty good indication that 3 inch is unnecessary at best, and could possibly result in a loss of low end torque at worse.

Also all bends will be mandril bent. all 2 of them, haha!
the j-series LOVES to breathe. because your car is old, those exhaust manufactures havent been innovating and probably stopped their R&D waaaaaay back in 1999.
we've found that a 3 inch single exhaust is the ideal diameter for power on the 3rd gen TL, which uses the same J-series engine. albeit, higher compression and heads cast into the block.
Old 03-07-2014, 08:00 AM
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3inch single exit LIGHTENED TL vs Camaro SS


Old 03-07-2014, 08:07 AM
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here's gains on a J30 engine, with a three inch exhaust.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/j30a5-dyno-me-855798/
Old 03-07-2014, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Inaccurate
UPDATE

I GOT ANOTHER 98 POUNDS OFF OF THE CAR !!!!!
..........(this includes dynamic loss)


:gheywave::gheywave:




Weight Reduction Since Last Update
-----------------------------------------------
23.7 Lbs - Single 3" Exhaust System
12.0 Lbs - Shaved tires (2/32" thread depth)
10.3 Lbs - BC Racing Coilovers
1.9 Lbs - Rear diffuser plastic panel
1.8 Lbs - EGR Delete
0.6 Lbs - Plastic trim around tail pipes
--------------------------------------------
50.3 Lbs NET TOTAL REMOVED













CUSTOM 3" SINGLE EXHAUST






























The oem exhaust system (minus oem third cat and mid muffler) weighs 43.60 Lbs.

My custom 3" single exhaust system weighs 19.90 Lbs.

The weight reduction from the custom 3" single exhaust is 23.7 Lbs. Before attempting this mod, I had estimated that I could shed 25 pounds. So, I reached my goal for the most part.

The reason that I picked the exhaust as my next diet mod was because it hopefully offered a slight power increase along with the weight reduction. Plus with my previous exhaust, I was getting tired of the intense rasp at 3500-4500 rpm.

My new exhaust sounds identical to Sonnick's Open-Y videos (click here). Although, I don't have the cool popping and the mini backfires..... wish mine did. So if you wish to hear mine, please watch Sonnick's videos (except I have no cool popping). The reason that mine sounds identical is because it is the same engine and the same exhaust.... 3" tube with just one Magnaflow muffler. The difference is that his is the 30" version and mine is the 18" version of the same identical muffler. But this difference is probably balanced out by him having no tail pipe and I do.

I designed and built this system myself. I did not drive to a muffler shop, have them throw my car on a lift, and have them crush some bends and weld-up some spaghetti using their cheap and heavy pipes. No muffler shops for me.... I did all the work myself except for the actual welding (MIG/TIG). I cut the tubing myself and measured the angles (or created a makeshift jig) to position the pieces together for the welder. When I arrived at the welder shop, I assembled the pieces (and held them myself) while he welded it. It took three trips (one per day) to finish the system.

I had spent many, many days googling the 3" single exhaust. I was looking for people that had done 3" single exhaust in general and for the J engine in particular. I wish to thank Sonnick for sharing his experiences with his 3" single exhaust. Sonnick's post about his "open Y" experiment was very helpful to me because it was, in essence, what I had in mind for my new exhaust. Sonnick's videos were very helpful because the vids allowed me to hear how my new system would sound before I committed to it. And, obviously, I liked the sound of his open-y exhaust.

To me, my exhaust has no drone and no rasp. But, I am not sensitive to rasp. While maintaining a constant MPH (below 80 mph), it is not really any louder than my oem catback. But obviously the volume increases a lot as the throttle is opened. But at no time does my exhaust have drone or rasp (at least to me).

My exhaust was not cheap. It was actually very expensive.... so much so that I don't want to say. The thin walled 3" tubing was very, very expensive. It was my insisting on using 20 GA tubing that caused the new exhaust system to be so expensive. If I was willing to compromise and use 18 GA tubing, the cost would had been one half of the 20 GA system. But, if I had used the 18 GA tubing, the new exhaust system would had weighed 5 pounds more. The thin walled mandrel bends were super expensive too. The thin tubing is difficult to weld, requiring the welder to go slow. Thus, the welder got $300 for his services too. But, I am extremely happy with how it turned out. The final weight and exhaust sound was on target with my hopes. I would do it again if I had too.













As a side note, I originally had intended to use the larger (and it is LARGE...see pics above) 30" Magnaflow muffler #12641 (click here). I had purchased the 30" already. But, at the last minute, I decided to use the 18" size. The 30" is just too massive and heavy. I decided that I would rather risk being too loud than risk being too heavy.








PART NUMBERS (items pictured above)
Magnaflow Muffler PN #12649 (quantity = 1) (click here)
Burns Stainless Steel Mandrel Bend 90 Degrees (quantity = 2) (click here)
Burns Stainless Steel 3" Tubing (quantity = 10 ft.) (click here)
Burns Stainless Steel Transition (quantity = 1) (click here)




Below are some related links -

1) single exhaust (click here)
2) Diary of an EXHAUST Addict (click here)
3) DUAL Exhaust VS SINGLE Exhaust (click here)
4) Picked up 15 hp...find out how (click here)
5) thinking about single exhaust (click here)
6) 70mm (2.75") piping on J series? (click here)
7) 3 inch piping (click here)
8) 3 INCHES!?!?! (That's what she said) (click here)
9) custom 3" magnaflow exhaust installed (click here)
10) single vs. dual exhaust (click here)
11) Single-Exit HKS Exhaust Writeup (click here)
12) Video Clips! 6MT NA (click here)


For the links below, copy and paste these links into your browser. Remove the red X before submitting. Acurazine blocks these links. So, this is why I must disguise them with a red X.

1) www.v6Xperformance.net/forums/7g-performance-discussion/210172-3-inch-2-5-inch.html

2) www.v6Xperformance.net/forums/7th-generation-honda-accord-2003-2007/210729-magnaflow-exhaust-gurus-opinions-needed.html

3) www.v6Xperformance.net/forums/7g-performance-discussion/209692-best-single-exhaust-setup.html

4) www.v6Xperformance.net/forums/7g-performance-discussion/196600-my-dyno-vid-7th-gen-v6-6-speed-manual-245whp-211wtq-exhaust-no-cats.html

5) www.v6Xperformance.net/forums/7g-performance-discussion/201030-opinions-custom-exhaust-idea.html

6) www.v6Xperformance.net/forums/6g-performance-discussion/209376-straight-pipes.html

7) www.v6Xperformance.net/forums/7g-performance-discussion/209232-v6-accord-tsudo-76mm-single-exhaust.html
For your reading pleasure.
Old 03-07-2014, 08:17 AM
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Why is it you want to save weight? If you arent tracking the car, any tiny bit of weight that "might" be added would be unnoticeable. Also, contrary to what you read about other vehicles and displacement, these motors LOVE air. They respond very well to 80mm tbs and large exhaust. The stock heads flow as good as many performance chevy/ford v8 heads. A single 3" would be the way to go if you are looking for weight savings, and simplicity. I ran twin 2.25 all the way back and could notice a huge difference in power, especially after 4k
Old 03-07-2014, 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
I ran twin 2.25 all the way back and could notice a huge difference in power, especially after 4k
for the sake of readability, that's more than a 3 inch diameter single.
Old 03-07-2014, 09:12 AM
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Very interesting, I've read the TL diet, but at the time wasn't interested in building an exhaust so I did not take notice of all that information, Thanks for Sharing!

I also had no idea our cars respond well to larger throttle bodies. With that kind of mod would I be trading a significant amount of torque for higher end power?

I have in the past and will again track my car, I occasional strip out my interior and sound system to remind myself how fun my car is when it isn't weighed down by a few extra hundred pounds of crap.

I would like to shed some pounds but I am not willing to spend a few extra hundred dollars to save 10lbs.
Old 03-07-2014, 09:17 AM
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no, a bored throttle body and ported and polished intake manifold will only increase torque.
you will not lose anything.

people that dont understand our vtec, think we lose torque down low to gain up high. the truth is, you gain EVERY where on the tach. but since it pulls harder up top, people assume they lost bottom end
Old 03-07-2014, 12:09 PM
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I'm not sure that's always true. there are always trade-offs between low end and upper end when your doing things like increasing intake runner length and increasing the diameter of throttle bodies and things like this.

I'm not saying you can't get gains in both areas, our stock parts are not always optimum, but eventually you will arrive at the point where you are making trade offs. Having two different cam profiles makes the trade-offs less severe.

I hope i'm getting across what I'm trying to say. I'm not always the best at putting words to my thoughts.
Old 03-07-2014, 12:47 PM
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fine, dont believe me after I disproved your 2.5 inch diameter exhaust

i can assure you, I gained across the whole tach.
the power band shifts up and I never lost torque.

I have a dyno of just jpipe and 3G version of headers. I gained across the tach vs my friends stock 6mt.
then, I added bored throttle body and p&p IM and runners.
my friend and I race often. he has a 6 speed as well with different mods and from a dig, we are even all the way up to 3rd gear. this is when I PULL.

if I lost torque like what you are thinking, I wouldnt be even with my friend. I would be scrambling to keep up with him.
I know this isnt scientific, but the torque is still there.

Last edited by justnspace; 03-07-2014 at 12:49 PM.
Old 03-07-2014, 12:52 PM
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the J-series LOVES TO BREATH.
OPEN HER UP via intake(intake manifold and its runners and bore out that throttle body) and exhaust
Old 03-07-2014, 02:48 PM
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Dude listen to these 2, I mean Fatty is a Pioneer in the TL and Justn well just look his posts and activity and you know what I mean..


Also I agree 100% These Honda Engines LOVER Air... Open her up and you will be amazed...
Old 03-09-2014, 12:59 PM
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I just want to make sure I understand thoroughly enough that when we are through here I didn't just get an answer to my question, but I also gain an understanding that I can apply to other mods and other vehicles. I appreciate the time you guys are taking, I really like inaccurate's setup. I will do something similar, but without the added expense of such thin walled tubeing. I will also add another smaller muffler to quiet the tone somewhat. Im not really a fan of how loud exhausts sound on slushbox cars.
Old 09-24-2014, 03:53 PM
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Well. I forgot to post but I went through with the exhaust build. 3 inch from the j pipe back with no cats. I ran strait pipe for a month or so. It was badass. But eventually got old. I ordered a magniflow muffler. The one innacurate was originally going to use. It ended up hanging too low (I have a really low car on 205/55/16's so ground clearance was really an issue. And the muffler only got rid of the raspiness that I kinda like. And it kept the drone I hate. So I'm back to stock for now. Going to build a 2.5" so I can keep ground clearance, and I'm going to try another brand's muffler that focuses more on sound cancelation for low frequencies, as opposed to magniflow's sound absorption.
Old 10-01-2014, 09:38 PM
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ground clearance???

You're wasting time and money, you do realize you can lift the whole piping.... as in tuck it in more to a point where your frame hits before piping. It's what many people here in So Cal do and what I should have done.
Old 10-02-2014, 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by laid67
Well. I forgot to post but I went through with the exhaust build. 3 inch from the j pipe back with no cats. I ran strait pipe for a month or so. It was badass. But eventually got old. I ordered a magniflow muffler. The one innacurate was originally going to use. It ended up hanging too low (I have a really low car on 205/55/16's so ground clearance was really an issue. And the muffler only got rid of the raspiness that I kinda like. And it kept the drone I hate. So I'm back to stock for now. Going to build a 2.5" so I can keep ground clearance, and I'm going to try another brand's muffler that focuses more on sound cancelation for low frequencies, as opposed to magniflow's sound absorption.
the 1/2 inch dia pipe isnt going to make a difference. If the exhaust is done right and up where its supposed to be clearance shouldnt be an issue
Old 10-02-2014, 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by HairyMonkey019
ground clearance???

You're wasting time and money, you do realize you can lift the whole piping.... as in tuck it in more to a point where your frame hits before piping. It's what many people here in So Cal do and what I should have done.
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