Happened 3 times since yesterday. First time, driving on highway, car dies (I see the green key light flashing). I pull of to shoulder, and try to put it in park, won't go past neutral. Try starting, turns over but doesnt start. Tried for about 5 minutes. Went out and checked to see if something was wrong with engine, nothing leaking. Got back in, and it starts up! Then I go to store, wont start. I went back into store for something, and it started when I came back out. Then driving an hour ago, dies, pull over, wont go to neutral, I get curious and open door, close it, and engine starts. Im thinking it's something to do with car not recognizing the key is in ignition? That's why it wont go into park from neutral? I want it to happen again to see if it starts back up immediately after I open and close the door. Not sure what that would mean. Im stumped. Any ideas?

 

Seems like a combination of the immobilizer system acting up and the ignition switch going south..


What year is your car?

 

1999, should have put that in.

 

Yah! you might have the infamous Ignition Switch problem that plagues Early 99-00s 2Gs.. Might want to look into that, its an easy DIY but the part itself its not cheap.

 

absolutly correct Skirmich

these are classic symptoms a 99 ignition switch back (the electrical contacts part) is failing
a decade ago there was a recall to replace it once, call acura 1 800 382 2238x5 with cars VIN and ask if completed, after that its on the owner
if not done, they may kick you the part free at least, not sure if time limit on that recall but it is a safety issue

diy section is the 4th item down the same list this post is in,,in light grey type
2 threads are listed in it- those contain all the diy links
the ign switch isn't hard after dealer did it once
iirc part is about 50$,,ck other threads on no start- same resolution=switch, and will have current price
aftermarket part from local store is fine for this job

 

the only things missing from your story are- then there was a bad smell and smoke from the steering wheel
or
it cuts out and back on during corners

last person on here to replace theirs- last week- found solder-like shrapnel coming from the switch and chucked it into a field~

 

Yea, went to dealership, my car had it replaced in 2003. I called the Acura hotline. Was told that I would need it diagnosed by dealership first, then a service manager at Acura headquarters would need to approve a replacement. But did not get a guarantee that they would replacement. So I risk getting stuck with cost of diagnosis and still having to replace switch myself. Anyone ever have the switch replaced on recall even after it was replaced previously? The part they replaced it with is defective, you would think they would for liability issues.

 

No smoke, thankfully. I did notice my key would get really hot.

 

Heres my thought on this, its definitely the ignition switch and about the green key light that comes up when the car dies, Normally when its in the off position after being on it will flash when you turn the switch off so it thinks you turned the key off when in fact you didn't.
In other words I think its normal that you saw the key light but the heat you felt on the key is from the defective ignition switch heating up and thats not normal.

 

Called Acura and ignition switch was replaced under the recall in 2003. I went ahead and replaced the switch myself. Drove fine for last 7 days, but just did same thing. If I sit with car for about 10 min it starts back up. One strange thing I noticed was that if key is in off position, I can still put windows up and down. I was sure it had to be the ignition switch, what else can it be now???

 

Did all of the switch's wiring connections go back together without any problem ?
Perhaps an issue somewhere within the interlock system ?

 

Yes, it was a very simple install, everything went together smoothly. I will check one more time. Electrical gremlins are a PITA huh?

 

Window operation with key off is normal on characteristic on Honda/Acura until you open the door. I would inspect all the fuses and wires that have to do with the ignition switch for burns or loose connections.
Do you have a heavy keychain ? Try not to

 

I think that key heat (first time I ever heard it described that way on here) was related to a wire melting- and causing power to be on when switch is off

you do mean more than 15 seconds after you turn off key power you can operate windows, right?
there is a delay system to allow window operation, for that sudden realization the window/sunroof is up or down a crack.
See owner book- free download- www.owners.acura.com

what condition was the old switch in? did you pry it apart to look at the damage inside, that may help us,
but start with the flashlight and contortionist routine to look under dash for wire issues~
might have to cut zip tie to pull wires apart- look for melted covers- exposed metal

on the subject of recall of this part= it was only 99s and new part solved problem- for most, but as some found it wears out too, maybe 4-5 times in the cars life. So do you go OE or try aftermarket for improved part
Do you expect a car maker to repair the car for 15 years? that's pretty generous!

I always suspect the most recent work done if a problem reappears
defective part or installer

 

Your Main relay is faulty

Replace it easy!

 

Hey Marcelft: apparently ECRD's suggestion resolved your starting problem. It's always good to follow up with results when possible, as it helps others experiencing a similar issue.


Anyways, for those who find that replacing the ignition switch isn't taking care of their starting problems......here's a thread with info on how to test the fuel pump and PGM-FI main fuel relay:

https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1999-2003-98/my-engine-turns-but-wont-fire-up-882103/

Post #16, by Fsttyms1

 

So did the main relay get replaced yet? Update?

 

Update: I have changed the ignition switch 2 times and the immobilizer once. Still doing same thing. I will try the main relay now, but wouldnt other things not work if the main relay stopped working?

 

relay operation/problem can be intermittent
Also see the thread on bad soldering under the relay box

I am surprised you replaced other parts again, before going with the logical step of cking the relay
you had heat on the actual key--means a lot of heat in the switch- which is not normal
Who knows what down the line was affected by that!

 

Thank you for the response. What relay are you talking about that I should have logically checked in the first place? And heat in the key seems to be normal, I did a lot of research and spoke to a mechanic who says honda keys do that often,
Is there a relay specifically for the ignition switch to recognize the key? I replaced the ignition switch at your and others recommendation. You did not say to check any relays.
As far as main relay being faulty, if that relay goes off, the entire cars power inside goes off, not just the part that recognizes that the key is in the ignition switch. Not sure how a failing main relay would create the problem I am experiencing.

 

So it was the Main FUEL Pump relay you were talking about...OK. I just went under car, took it out, and the key recognition light does not come on when key is in. So looks like that is the problem.

 

bad solder joint on Main Fuel Pump Relay. I soldered it back and hopefully thats it.

 

sweet!!!
sorry I could not name the exact relay,,,thought we had discussed it in this thread
FPR = Fuel Pump Relay has the bad solder issue
thanks for the pic! and sharing your experience

I have not experienced any heat on my key when removed from ignition
Remember Honda makes the engine, but many parts do not behave like a honda!
Honda techs don't know about certain things that are vastly different- like the temp gauge and overheat problems,,they will tell you full scale movement is normal
We will tell you its imminent death !
maybe key heat is another

 

post #16 on this thread has link to FPR issue and fix