VSA and ! light on, help
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
VSA and ! light on, help
Today while driving my VSA and ! light both came on and stayed illuminated. I stopped and turned the car off then restarted it. The light was off, then after a min of driving they both came back on. No other lights are on and the tranny shifts fine. I tried to get the codes read at advance auto, but there wasn't any. I searched and found a few posts with the same issue, but no one has really posted to say if they figured out the problem.
#3
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Does anyone know if the Navi system uses the same yaw rate sensor at the VSA system?
#4
its very possible the speed sensor wire was damaged during the brake work
check all of them first
What year is your car?
gen3 has a yaw sensor- I was not aware that gen2 does?
check all of them first
What year is your car?
gen3 has a yaw sensor- I was not aware that gen2 does?
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I'll check out the sensors tomorrow. I found in an older post that 2nd gens have yaw sensors, the part number is 39960-S0A-013. I believe it is behind the rear seat. I guess the only way to get the codes read is to take it to the dealer since they are not engine codes.
#6
look at the speed wires first,, before dropping 100 to learn its a speed sensor
Often a caliper gets placed on the rotor or similar hanging type situation and the wire or its connector gets pulled on - pulled apart or broken during a brake job
Always re-check anything you touched, or were near
Often a caliper gets placed on the rotor or similar hanging type situation and the wire or its connector gets pulled on - pulled apart or broken during a brake job
Always re-check anything you touched, or were near
#7
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
look at the speed wires first,, before dropping 100 to learn its a speed sensor
Often a caliper gets placed on the rotor or similar hanging type situation and the wire or its connector gets pulled on - pulled apart or broken during a brake job
Always re-check anything you touched, or were near
Often a caliper gets placed on the rotor or similar hanging type situation and the wire or its connector gets pulled on - pulled apart or broken during a brake job
Always re-check anything you touched, or were near
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#9
the warning lights are crazy-
mostly they are to get your attention- not diagnose a problem based on the lights
mostly they are to get your attention- not diagnose a problem based on the lights
#10
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Good idea, thanks. What was actually wrong with your sensor? Did your light come on immediately or after a little driving?
#11
the reader for the wheel speed is that ribbed metal ring on the axle shaft, and a sensor above it--the sensor gets damaged during brake jobs often!!
thats what sends wheel speed info to the computer,,beyond that I dont know how the tcs works except it reads the speeds of the front wheels and if not the same- applies brake rapidly on and off to the faster wheel
System stops working on gen2 at 16mph-20kph
The engineers figuring that you were starting on an icy slope and have car control by 15 miles per hour (likely was certification issue with the 20kph IMO)
thats what sends wheel speed info to the computer,,beyond that I dont know how the tcs works except it reads the speeds of the front wheels and if not the same- applies brake rapidly on and off to the faster wheel
System stops working on gen2 at 16mph-20kph
The engineers figuring that you were starting on an icy slope and have car control by 15 miles per hour (likely was certification issue with the 20kph IMO)
#12
what about pulling the wheels and rechecking your work???
For all we know the brake fluid flush was done in the wrong order and now warning systems are funky
did you bleed them LF (driver front) the clockwise around the car??
LF RF RR LR
anything else is wrong and must be corrected
If you had the lines off to replace them, you need to bleed the system then go do 2, 45mph ABS stops to full stop and full throttle back to 45 and repeat
If pedal better 2nd time you had air in the abs controller box- no sweat- its out now and in a caliper- probably LF is where you will find a few bubbles, but run a full bleed set around the car to be sure
For all we know the brake fluid flush was done in the wrong order and now warning systems are funky
did you bleed them LF (driver front) the clockwise around the car??
LF RF RR LR
anything else is wrong and must be corrected
If you had the lines off to replace them, you need to bleed the system then go do 2, 45mph ABS stops to full stop and full throttle back to 45 and repeat
If pedal better 2nd time you had air in the abs controller box- no sweat- its out now and in a caliper- probably LF is where you will find a few bubbles, but run a full bleed set around the car to be sure
#13
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
what about pulling the wheels and rechecking your work???
For all we know the brake fluid flush was done in the wrong order and now warning systems are funky
did you bleed them LF (driver front) the clockwise around the car??
LF RF RR LR
anything else is wrong and must be corrected
If you had the lines off to replace them, you need to bleed the system then go do 2, 45mph ABS stops to full stop and full throttle back to 45 and repeat
If pedal better 2nd time you had air in the abs controller box- no sweat- its out now and in a caliper- probably LF is where you will find a few bubbles, but run a full bleed set around the car to be sure
For all we know the brake fluid flush was done in the wrong order and now warning systems are funky
did you bleed them LF (driver front) the clockwise around the car??
LF RF RR LR
anything else is wrong and must be corrected
If you had the lines off to replace them, you need to bleed the system then go do 2, 45mph ABS stops to full stop and full throttle back to 45 and repeat
If pedal better 2nd time you had air in the abs controller box- no sweat- its out now and in a caliper- probably LF is where you will find a few bubbles, but run a full bleed set around the car to be sure
#14
Drifting
iTrader: (10)
After the VSA light came on, i turned the car off and started it up again but it came on after driving a little.
#15
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I don't actually know what was wrong with it. I took out the wheel, start messing the speed sensor and made sure it was clear of everything. After that, it never came back on.
After the VSA light came on, i turned the car off and started it up again but it came on after driving a little.
After the VSA light came on, i turned the car off and started it up again but it came on after driving a little.
#18
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Hey, I have the same issue on mine. As soon as I start the car the ' ! ' light is on ( right as I start ). The VSA light comes on after about 1km of driving and never turns off. My ABS works 100% so I'm not sure that I have a sensor issue B/C if one of them were bad the ABS would not work right? I've done high speed braking tests to confirm that none of the wheels lock up at all. I have no clue as to what I should try next. My issue is that I'm too cheap to go to Acura for a scan $100 is way too much!
#19
high speed braking is not a test of the abs!!
Go throw water on one side of the street and slam the brakes as you enter it at 30mph
That will make the ABS get active in a hurry~
Go throw water on one side of the street and slam the brakes as you enter it at 30mph
That will make the ABS get active in a hurry~
#20
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Sorry, I should have stated that I also have tried it in the Snow/Ice...I live in Canada...The ABS works flawlessly. I've had the car for about 3 years now and have used it for two winters...Never had any Pull to any side with the ABS...always straight!
#22
what was the cost to repair?
#25
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
#26
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I was just wondering if the car was scanned at a local shop or not. Some codes can only be read at the Dealer as Smaler shops may not have the correct tools. If your code was read/diagnosed at a smaller shop I would have taken my car to a similar place as I don't want to spend $100CAD for a dealer scan.
#27
you should be able to negotiate with most shops depending on how they bill
While they want to charge a seperate 1- 1.5 hour diagnosis fee, in the labor time book than many use for billing - that has a column for `includes diagnosis` ,its a few 10ths of an hour, not 1.5 hours on a small part
A good shop with proper tools doesnt need huge amount of time, and the scanner said exactly what was wrong in this case of yaw-
but if you dont question it...why shouldnt they get max profit
the diagnosis fee is supposed to be to protect the shop from those who want a complex problem diagnosed, then customer takes it down the street to have the work done
Some dont feel they should pay shop 1 for their time --so diagnosis fee kicks in - the shop gets something for the time a tech could have been working on other cars,, making money for them
While they want to charge a seperate 1- 1.5 hour diagnosis fee, in the labor time book than many use for billing - that has a column for `includes diagnosis` ,its a few 10ths of an hour, not 1.5 hours on a small part
A good shop with proper tools doesnt need huge amount of time, and the scanner said exactly what was wrong in this case of yaw-
but if you dont question it...why shouldnt they get max profit
the diagnosis fee is supposed to be to protect the shop from those who want a complex problem diagnosed, then customer takes it down the street to have the work done
Some dont feel they should pay shop 1 for their time --so diagnosis fee kicks in - the shop gets something for the time a tech could have been working on other cars,, making money for them
#28
hey 01tl4tl i tried to bleed the brake light you say but it still happen, TCS and ABS light come on, and i they not come on every time i come to a stop side or red light ABS started to kick in. So shud i bring the car to the dealer and let they bleed the whole brake system?
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