Big Dom

Currently when I pull up the upper intake manifold, there are two identical gaskets. Is this right?

I want to purchase new set and replace. However, which set? Some come with two of those gaskets and some have one. Are they meant to affix to each other? Thank you.

thoiboi

Go to rockauto.com and put in your car info

Jon M

2000 TL upper manifold
You can see that you need the kit that comes with the 2 side chamber gaskets (items 6&7), the upper intake manifold gasket (item 10), the intake manifold gasket (item 5- 1 piece), A rubber seal (not shown, goes on the inside of the intake manifold) and one throttle body to intake manifold gasket (not shown). Some of the kits you show have 2 of the throttle body gaskets use since there are variations of the throttle body and intake manifold. Use the one where all the holes line up. They also show to of the bottom intake manifold gaskets, same thing use the one that lines up the openings correctly.

Take note of how they come off so you get the top and bottom of the gaskets correct. Take pictures before you remove each one, most are metal, the throttle body to intake manifold is a paper type, make sure the mating surfaces are clear of the old gasket, try not to scratch the mating surfaces!

Big Dom

Thanks, Jon!

let's discuss Item 5 and Item 10.

When I fixed the egr insufficient flow issue, the new issue of "chugging/puttering" during cold start occurred. Very noticeable during first start of day. Kinda figured water got down into exhaust or maybe other water damage. Ive used dry gas a few times since. Also, when I first go into reverse, the car sometimes "bangs", almost as if the idle was too high when I went into reverse. Only does this during cold start. Chugging diminishes once car fully warms up.

took to mechanic, he said something about the exhaust needing an overhaul (but didn't say what specifically). Said noise and vibration and banging is all from motor mounts. Said all mounts are bad. Said between this and leaking oil pump seal, maybe I should look for a newer model.

back to item 5 and 10. If when I worked on the egr flow issue, by taking them gaskets on and off, could it have pinched them or warped them or whatever? And if so, could that cause the chugging/sputtering"??? Also, I noticed 2 item 5 gaskets. Not sure if they were originally fixed together or meant to be separate or maybe only meant for one. I just left both there when I put things back together. What if I didn't tighten everything down tight enough?
my thought would be an issue with item 5 and item 10 would lead to vacuum leak, but not chugging. Thoughts?

My dilemma is the age of the car. 24 years old. Do I want to put more money into it or start to ignore certain things (I've never done that)?

Yes, it needs mounts, that I know.

as far as the chugging.......NO smoke. NO exhaust smells. NO puttering or misfiring when driving. NO exhaust leak noise.
NO engine lights. Car drives strong, fast, straight, no hesitation, no performance issues. Because of this, maybe I should just leave it alone (though I dont like the banging into reverse - mechanic said it's tranny mounts). The car literally drives stronger or as strong as when I purchased it 8 years ago. Oh, and the AC blows ice cold. A big deal in the desert!!!!

Mayne I'll get an audio/video of the chugging...we'll see.

thank you !!!!!

Jon M

When you get a vacuum leak the car can do anything depending on where and how much a leak.
If the metal gaskets got bent it can cause a vacuum leak, if the paper type rips it can cause a leak, Uneven tightening of bolts or nuts can cause a leak, When you tighten any of the bolts you should be using a torque wrench to finalize the pressure, These are aluminum blocks and it is easy to strip out a hole if you over torque. Then you will have a problem! You should replace the mounts. with things the way you are describing I would check to see if I can find a leak (the upper intake is kind of pain as you can't see the lower gasket. Use some water in a spray bottle and see if the sound changes as you spray around the gaskets, It won't last long as the water will fill the gap for a moment before being sucked in. If you can't find it I would be thinking about a gasket set, however I would be working on getting the mounts done first.

As far as putting money into the car I will tell you what I have done but telling you what to do for yourself is totally up to you. Everyone's finances and needs are different. For myself I put the money into the car knowing I would never be able to sell it for what I put into it. The reasons I had and have is that the price of used cars were sky high (I haven't looked recently). I can work on the vehicle myself and I generally I like doing it, a different used car would have its own problems I would have to work out, I don't want a car that needs software updates nor has a CVT tranny. So I kept mine and work on when I want. The engine/tranny is running great, the paint sucks, the navigation isn't working and I have an SRS light on all the time.

Big Dom

BOTH sets fit my vehicle (VIN Checked).

question is: the manifold gasket....why does one set come with two, while the other set comes with one? If I get the set that contains two, do I affix them together when installing?

Jon M

My guess is that the gasket is slightly different for either the J32A1 and the J32A2 engines with the other gaskets being the same. Including both gaskets would allow a manufacturer to sell the entire kit under multiple part numbers. You only need one gasket for the bottom upper intake manifold.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

Check the 'Vehicle Fitment' tab on the OEM vendor below for your #5 intake manifold gasket & the #10 intake manifold gasket:
Intake Manifold - 2000 Acura TL 4 Door TL (NAVI) KA 5AT (acurapartswarehouse.com)
This type of OEM website is the first place one should start with ANY Acura car part number research they may need.
Once you are certain you have the correct part number for your application, then the search begins for the best value if you want aftermarket (if available) versus OEM.
As to why Mahle has two #5 intake manifold gaskets in their kit versus the Fel-Pro kit, who knows.
You would only use one #5 lower gasket & make sure the #10 upper gasket is installed correctly with the little 'tab' that juts out at the throttle body end towards the firewall.

Big Dom

thank you! I entered my vin and have confirmed fitment and part number.

currently, there are two number 5 gaskets in my vehicle. No idea why. Maybe they were affixed before. Idk. But I will purchase new gasket and install. Thanks!!!

Big Dom

Zeta- that website is great. Unlike Amazon which tells me the part number doesn't fit my vehicle. Thank u!

zeta

iTrader: (1)

Are there two separate riveted together 'multi' metal layered gaskets on top of each other?
Or one riveted 'multi' metal layered gasket?

Big Dom

two separate (identical).

zeta

iTrader: (1)

I realize you already know this; however, just for 'grins & giggles':
1) Check out & click to enlarge the third photo (above the red label) on the link below.
17105-P8E-A01 - Gasket, In Manifold - 2002-2004 Honda | All Discount Parts Store
This is an example of a single three metal layered (riveted together) lower intake manifold gasket.
You can see the three individual metal layers on the picture.
2) As you state, if you have two of these 'stacked' on top of each other currently, one should be removed.

Big Dom

I will have to look again, but from my memory, there are two separate gaskets and they dont appear multi-layered. Just two single gaskets, if that makes sense. But again, when I open it up again, I will show pics.
also, I snapped a bolt in the upper intake plenum plate when putting it back together.

gthirteen

if you look at the reviews and read some of the comments, they mention it.


The valve covers were leaking on my 2000 Acura TL. In order to pull the valve covers, you have to remove the intake (upper and lower).
These gaskets are then necessary to re-assemble the intake.
To be clear, if you remove your intake, you need to replace the gaskets. Never re-use gaskets. New ones aren't that expensive compared to the amount of time it takes to put them in if you need to replace them due to a leak.
There are two sets of gaskets here - 1 for the upper intake and 1 for the lower.
I don't know why there are two lower intake manifold gaskets in the kit - but there are.
This kit does not include the side gaskets for the intake manifold. There is a kit that does contain those. I wasn't taking those apart, so I didn't need them.
These fit perfectly and there are no leaks.

Jon M

Broken bolt is better than stripped hole. You really should invest in 1 or two torque wrenches if you are working on a car. The intake manifold torque values are in the manual (section 9). Most are in the 8 to 20 ft/lbs.12-26nm range. You can pickup a torque wrench at amazon for $30-$40. .

zeta

iTrader: (1)

Upon further review, the reason the aftermarket kits include two 17105-P8E-A01 lower gaskets is because the 01-02 MDX has the #8 inlet manifold spacer shown in the link below.
https://www.acurapartswarehouse.com/..._manifold.html

Big Dom

nice find, Zeta!!!

wondering if having two of those gaskets is causing the chugging? Or maybe the egr port could use another cleaning. Like I said, only during cold starts. Maybe the motor mount vibration/issue is worse when cold?

gthirteen

any progress with this?

Did you ever pull off the water passage and dump all coolant and clean that as well?, during the EGR cleaning?

I ran across this other thread in the 3g section
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-p...nifold-856811/

I have a 99, so this next week ill be removing this passage for inspection because i cant seem to solve my issue with stalling. If I come across any blockage and crude I will take a picture.

Big Dom

Sorry for the late reply. I have not tried the water passage cleaning. I need to order the plenum/manifold gaskets and throttle body gasket and another egr port cleaning. The rumbling and even motor mount vibration seems slightly less noticeable since the weather turned hot (if that makes any sense). So I've just been getting gas, getting a car wash, changing oil when needed, and driving around town. Smog check/emmissions test PASSED last week and my air conditioning is still ice cold!

Good luck with your projects. Keep us posted.

Thank you!

Big Dom

gthirteen

Just to clarify, I have a '99.

I removed the passage today and found it was dirty but not restricted. There was some carbon buildup in one spot. I used carb cleaner, which cleared out the carbon deposits pretty well. However, I accidentally broke the nozzle off the can. I'll get another can and do a more thorough cleaning once my parts arrive. I had to cut all three hoses (upper/lower radiator and heater hose) because they've been on for 25 years, and I planned to replace at least the upper and lower radiator hoses, but not the heater hose.

Removing this passage is a good step for an EGR cleaning if you want to thoroughly remove all deposits, although it's a bit of a hassle. Removing the water passage, you had to slightly manhandle it and pull it off the water tube with the o-ring and it releases, and of course the engine block drain bolt is always a good time.

I ordered the 3 hoses, thermostat, pcv valve, and all the gaskets.

I did not take a picture of the build up because I got ahead of myself but I did take one after I cleaned it up.